I've been told you want to have roughly 1/8" of toe then for 37s or 40s up to a 1/4" of toe. You don't want it set at zero but I forget exactly why.i like to do 1/8" with my 37s. I also use toe plates like yours I think mine are bleepinjeep ones. I would suggest using 2 identical tape measures of decent quality I have a couple milwaukee tape measures I keep with my toe plates. A lot of cheap and different brand tape measures can be off a bit.
Some toe in improves tracking, but it is unnecessary. Honestly to biggest purpose of being slightly toe in is it means you are not toe out which will degrade handling and wear tires. On a truck your unlikely to notice any difference if you're zero or 1/8 toe in.
I've been doing my own alignments since my first XJ 20 years ago with string and tape measure, always Rd 1/8 toe in seems to work great. Been to the PNW and back several times. Always got good wear out of my 33s.
It seems like 1/8th is the consensus on the toe so I’ll have to do some adjustments and I’m glad everybody is throwing this info out for other XJ owners that might watch this video! 😊
Great video. I'm considering a set of toe plates and this video sold me on them. My only criticism is not having the correct torque. Saying to put it on as tight as possible is an open ended problem. Somebody using a three foot breaker bar like on a 3/4 inch drive would likely snap the nut off. On the other hand someone with a 3/8 inch breaker bar and not of large stature will have it too loose. Always for your safety and your loved ones use a torque wrench with the correct torque for your hardware. I've been wrenching for over fifty years. Safety first!
I appreciate the feedback. I usually give the torque spec needed but Cavfab doesn’t provide a torque spec for their tie rod so I wasn’t sure what to torque it to. And I agree safety is always first!!
It needs to be in perfect alignment with the vehicle if it's up or down either side the measurement is out Maybe a spirit level on the underside of the vehicle and the tool at the same time and get them the same
That wheel alignment tool would need to be in perfect alignment with the body of the vehicle or the suspension If it was slightly up or down it would make the measurement out So is not possible for it to work I was just about to buy this 😱
I've got some strut channel I'm going to mark up to get equal measurements. Paying for some scrap angle iron ain't for me. If that don't work I've got lasers and squares. Measure mark and layout is my middle name. What are the odds of that?
The feathering is actually because you have a bad shock. The toe will prematurely wear the tire on the inter or outer side of the tires. Another thing did you center your steering wheel first?
Shouldn't the weight of the vehicle be on the chassis to do the alignment? Because when you put the tires back on and put it on the ground, that little bit the suspension goes down changes the geometry. Right? Or when I do mine maybe I can put the jack stand right under the lower ball joint.
I'm guessing the tie rod torque should be around 75 lb ft. Over tighten bolts can be just as dangerous as loose bolts. Stretching the bolts/threads, which could lead to failure.
100% over tight is possibly worse. A quick search on line will tell you what the torque is for a given fastener size and grade. IE a grade 8, 5/8" dia, 11 TPI bolt torque spec --- dry/not lubed is 212 ft lbs I printed these charts out and hung them in my shop for quick ref.
When you have the whole front end on jack stands and both tires off, I noticed that only one side of the vehicle is worked on while doing this alignment. My question is, does this align both sides or do you have to go to the other side and adjust as well?
Not directly under the ball joints but there were close. I didn’t check the tape variance between the two I used but The tape measure difference was brought up in a different comment and it’s a good idea. Get two of the same brand tape measure for sure
it is a solid axle, how would jack stand location cause a variance? Ride height IS very important to have when setting any alignment. I see people with the tape measure concern and I say. Measure anything with a good clean edge (A work bench, a ruler etc.)and put a mark at a given distance, say 12 inches. Now repeat with the second tape and check for accuracy. Obviously the two marks should be identical to get an accurate toe.
Okay I have a question for you how do you know that your will are not turned at an angle when you're adjusting this you can get the wheels at the same do you know they're not pointing a direction when doing it
It doesn’t matter which side you adjust, just try to have the same amount of exposed thread on each tie rod end so they’re both equally engaged thread wise
That’s good information! I should have done more research on that but from everything I’ve been looking up is that’s correct info. At least 1/8 toe in 😬 I’ll need to get back under the jeep and do some adjusting…
Camber has to also be adjusted with special upper ball joints that have an eccentric insert. Caster can be adjusted with those same ball joints or adjustable control arms. Depending on the vehicle the stock control arms may have eccentric mounting bolts allowing for some amount of castor adjustment. It also changes the pinion angle where the earlier mentioned ball joints do not.
Most modern cars have no ability to adjust caster. Camber could also be permanently fixed and only adjustable with shims or be adjusted by an eccentric bolt like those on struts.
Dimensionally speaking, I think that's a good idea. The longer the tool, the greater the error. I think taking the measurement at the radius equivalent of the tire to be ran is ideal. I mean as next to ideal as measuring electronically in degrees anyway
@@heavymetaloff-road I have been trying to find a definitive answer on this. In theory if your running a 35, then 17 1/2" from the hub center would be "the spot" to measure. I don't know if "error" is correct. maybe more like the longer the greater the accuracy. I am not sure "YET" LOL. my research continues.