Thanks for the video. "but I can't do any job without doing a good job". My philosophy as well - drives some other people nuts - but I totally am on the same page. Love the attitude.
This video is exactly what I needed. Every step in detail. I just painted single stage on my bronco and have tons of orange peel so I guess the process begins
I just did a single stage red and color sanding with 1000 then 1500 then color sanded 3000 and used 3m rubbing compound then then a polish it came out like a mirror now on metallic paint like I said before is when your applying the paint use 2 ball bearings in the paint cup and keep the metallic particles suspended. When I did the blue truck the metallic was uniform no heavy spots, then I did a normal cut and buff and it turned out very nice, I also did it in sections which I think helped, because I only had a small compressor that you use a nail gun with but, people were like wow that’s a nice truck but like you said single stage is different than base clear coat, but your video is very rewarding and I really appreciate you going through the steps it will help people out thank you!
Thanks. Nice to see someone like me going through the steps. You've shown me that it's a process and cutting out steps (removing the divots with 1000) causes lots of downstream work and disappointment.
Thanks for the video my paint job has alot of fisheyes. I was told to do wet sand, cut and buff then polished. Glad to see this video because i dont have any experience of polishing wise. This video will helped do mine soon!
Never knew that wetting the surface while using medium cut would be so much easier. My 89 Saleen Mustang is mostly still original single stage paint and this video was super helpful. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Although I’m a professional detailer of 15 years, I still learn from others. However, I hate wetting the compound as it makes such a mess and putting more compound and polish onto the pads only creates more work. I find it is less work and less cleanup to use less and repeat the step if need be. That’s just my personal preference. While the gloss is fantastic, with metallic paints , the blotchiness can’t be corrected.
Hey Corey, Nice job bringing that paint to as smooth as can be. What is taking away from this is not your fine sanding or compounding, it has to do with the paint itself. The metallic of the paint is not appearing to be evenly distributed. Only way to fix this is to respray it. UGH!! I know you know this and are hoping for the best. Good Video. Keep them coming. Thanks.
I’ve read professionals do not recommend single stage for metallic paint. Only CCOB. But you did a good job in any case. I share the same philosophy with you for always trying my best-I’m my biggest critic and will have to live with the defects.
By doing this you're going to disturb the metallic horribly. When you see it in the right light it's going to ruin your day ! ! ! You can do this on some of the very basic solid colors, but keep in mind that you can disturb the pigment on some solid colors. Disturbing the pigment usually isn't nearly as bad as disturbing the metallic. Use clearcoat and cut and buff that. Do it before the clear gets too hard, and it won't be near as a difficult. If you cut and buff color you're going to plug up your sandpaper and your buffing pads, not fun! Hope this helps, I painted cars for 20 years.
Thanks for sharing, very instructive video. I always struggle with single stage paint, not so much runs when you get used to it but orange peel is always a big deal. After several attemps I realized I was not using the proper reactive (fast) and moved to another reactive (slow). This dramatically reduced orange peel but occasionally I still have some. I tried using a bit more thinner (specs from paint manufacturer is 5 to 10%, i tried 15 or even 20% on very hot days). Also I'm never happy whith the paint gun settings with this type of pain, (either too dry or too much material resulting in orange peel) and can't get a proper result directly. I think I'll give up on one stage paint and move to base+clear for future projects, but since I started a full paint job with this paint I'm stuck with it for this project. Anyway cut & buff process can also be tricky and requires the proper equipements. I tried cut&buff but using a pneumatic DA for the finish cut and bufffing and never managed to get the shine completly back. I now invested in electric tools (DA + rotary sander) and proper buffing pads (and proper sanding pads, not the cheap ones) using the same buffing compounds and the result is already much better, almost good (for my standards). I need to practice more but your video confirms that I was doing it all wrong previously.
My last cut I do with an oscillator for the swirl marks comes out awesome and then believe it or not you wash it afterwards to get the glaze off makes a big difference
Long time painter and restoration expert next time reduce your paint more and maybe turn up your gun pressure. You cant really cut and buff a metallic single. You can see it in your video pretty good which means in the sun in person you can really see it. You cut the tops of the metallics it makes the color lighter and more silver. It's fine on straight colors but not metallics or pearls although you can get away with it on pearls alot better its harder to see. My best tip for anyone spraying something like this and low experience is on the last coat mix the single 50/50 with clear this gives you a translucent layer you can fix things in. Your still limited on what you can fix but it's better. Personally if this happens to me I let it sit for a few days buzz it down with 1000 and spray a quick one coat.
I understand what you are saying, the paint does have a bit more silver color to it but it does look way better even in the sun than it did. I definitely should have reduced it a lot further though.
Great tips and thanks for showing the specific products and tools used! I already own that Bauer DA. I just ordered Tamco AG Series single stage paint for my project which I will be shooting in the fall. I am saving this video for future watching when I am ready to buff it out.
I just used a 4" foam roller to put on Tamco DTA epoxy primer. It came out pretty good. Will need some sanding but its sands smooth pretty easy with 220 grit. Saved me from getting overspray everywhere.
One thing you did wrong on the single stage was not mist a light spray at the end so all the metalics in the paint matched in a uniform pattern it's very blotchy but it's still a good job for a first try better then I'd do probably but I'm just speaking from what I seen painters do in my uncles shop I grew around a body shop know how to do it and all just don't do it enough 😂 lol I like playing with engines more but anyways had you tried to mist a very light spray over last coat to create a uniform pattern at the end of the paint job this paint job would of been a little more clean this is critical step for single stage metalic paints only but that's how you learn by trying new stuff good job over all👍
I would advise anybody to not color wet sanding a single stage metallic paint! Why you ask! Because when you paint a metallic single stage paint, on the last coat you have to fog the paint as you go to keep the metallics from uniform a d not blotchy looking, wet sanding will ta,e that layer off and it will get a zebra look to it. And at the beginning of video he showed a run that will end up being heavy dark metallic run even though the run itself is gone. Now if you sprayed it with a single stage solid color no metallic you can do the wet sand with no problem as long as you have enough paint on said job.
If you wetsand the whole car, and either polish or clear coat the paint will be fine. The run can be fixed also by sanding the panel down and run down and simple respray.
Great video. Very informative but I have a few questions 1. How many coats of single stage did you apply? 2. Did doing this have a negative effect on the lifespan of the paint?
I may have overlooked it, but what type of single stage paint did you use? Urethane? Lost my garage space and can't clear coat so I searched and am hoping to do what you have done to my paint job. Thanks!
Thanks for the info. Not a hater, just curious. Is the patchy color just metal flake that did not lay down the same or did sanding a metallic paint create a problem?
How many coats of paint did you do? I just shot my car in TCP Global single stage metallic and have some cutting and buffing to do on it. Worried about going through since it's too cold to repaint the car until spring. Thanks! Great video.
Came out great, but thru the video the blue lost some of its richness, i could be wrong n it looks dif in person? thats a problem i have right now choosing a blue cause they look dif after finished polish
You are correct, it did lose some of it richness. It was a worth while trade off for me but ideally you wouldn’t need to do this if you sprayed it a lot better than I did.
I'm sub 996 - You do great work, remember to not let the trolls get to you! They are everywhere on the interwebs! That turned out awesome and I saved this video for future reference. Thanks brother!
Hey I took a lot of tips from this video as I’m working on single stage. My question is between sanding there is always a mess, besides hosing the car off every time and pushing it out of the garage what do you recommend? I’ve been using glass cleaner and a Microfiber
I'm from Australia, and I was wondering, is there no re-enforcement braces under the bonnet of those trucks? I cringed every time it popped and buckled under the low pressure of the buff, and hand sanding. I thought it was going to buckle the bonnet.
The color changes slightly and you need to sand down enough to flatten the paint completely so the entire surface gets sanded so it looks even. It may not be perfect but it’s much better than before.
Same thing with me, but It was entirely my fault for being lazy. I didn't buy any sort of fans for ventilation so the first few panels I sprayed as I was spraying the car would wet out decently then by the end of the car all of the dry spray in the air would be falling into the paint and making it even more dull. The car's got a nice texture at least haha
I just did a single stage and it came out very bumpy looks terrible. I don't know if the problem was my spray gun or what was it. Do you think it can be fix by doing this? 🤔
Is it a metallic paint or solid? If solid color this will definitely fix it. If metallic this process will make it smooth but the color may change and get blotchy from sanding into the metallic. Mine came out ok but it’s not perfect.
It's metallic.. Same happened with 2 stage. I think there's a problem with my gun or the air pressure.. Sad to do so much work to have terrible results
About to do the same on my Bugeye Sprite project. This has been very helpful. It was my first time painting a car I used a single stage sold color so I don't have the flake to contend with. Thanks.
The best way to do single stage paint is to do light consist coats that way it stays wet you can keep your metallic flake from sagging and alot of the orange peel will go away
Hey great video I have been doing the same steps on my new paint job black single stage. I just finished the first buff and moved on to the fine cut with the same polish pad. It seems to shine better before that step? Did I do something wrong? Thanks
I’ve noticed the same thing. I think the heavy cut with the wool pad does a little better job of melting the finish, creating that super high gloss. But it will leave behind hologram looking swirl marks, that is what the next steps remove. In my experience the first buff is super glossy, the next buff isn’t as glossy but more even and then the third polish/buff brings back a lot of gloss. Hope this helps.
Talk to me about perfection 🙂 I have done a really hard DIY spot paint repair, a 3"X3" spot in the middle of a large panel so you have to blend all around (first time doing it). On daylight, it looks perfect, but at night with a flashlight I can see all my (many) mistakes and now I wonder should I redo it? I know in my mind that it will be a mistake but the perfection devil don't want to leave me a lone 🙂
I would let that orange peel go, Its no worse than factory paint, plus it seems to me on single stage paint, the paint is tougher with orange peel before start sanding on it.
Great video... just laid down single silver with flake, looks okay, but didnt wet out like I would have liked. Going to do this and hopefully get some shine. Have you done the 1000 wet on the DA? lowest speed?
I have done 1000 dry at high speed and it worked out great. I’m not sure if the silver flake will cause any problems. Because my paint is metallic the color does change slightly from sanding, becoming a bit more silver but it looks way better than the orange peel.
Dang hope you didn't try cutting and buffing single stage metallic paint,it will scratch the metallic making it look shitty,only works for single stage paint with no metallic.
I know this is a year old… but as someone already said, buffing single stage metallic disturbs the metallic. You may get “shine” but if you’re working on something other than a work truck, you need to use BC CC. Newbies will have find bccc will produce better results.
question. what's a good method for cutting and buffing in tight areas where a buffer can't go? What would I use in regards to substitution for the wool pad, medium cut pad and the black pad, if doing this by hand. Thanks!
Generally you wouldn’t cut and buff tight areas because you want see it as much. But otherwise you can do the same process by hand with a microfiber cloth.
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Nope, you definitely can. The metallic is all the way through the paint. This has 3 heavy coats on it. I didn’t do a great job on the spraying so it was a little blotchy or the hood before I started sanding, it may be a little more blotchy now but it’s hard to tell.
alot of orange peel on my 63 impala . I'm guessing it's single stage paint ? it's a 20 yr old paint job . what should I do to get rid of the orange peel and bring out shine . I have an orbital sander . haven't used it yet though . maybe a wet sand ? or cut/ compound ?
You might want to try buffing it first with a wool pad and compound. Speed is a good question and I get asked that frequently, I honestly have no idea, I just have a feel for what is too fast or slow based on how it’s sanding I guess.
I can’t remember for sure but I think I was using a 1.5 tip. I couldn’t put on light coats or it would be super rough. Definitely could have thinned it more.
You can get it flat and glossy but sanding any metallic single stage is going to ruin the look of the finish. It actually flattens the metal flakes and changes the look of the paint. It’s going to be blotchy and uneven. Not saying you can’t do it but your sacrificing the evenness of the metallic for lees peel.
I came across this video almost went into a panic attack thinking he was sanding metallic paint. Turns out he was panic attack justified I’ve been painting cars 30 years I actually have never seen anyone attempt this before. Seems like a waste of time and money to me.
You are complicating things too much, after sanding go with a micro fibre pad on a DA with some coarse compound, than use an all in one finish compound on soft pad. You can try out the rupes line, coarse and then uno protect on a medium wool pad
First time painting car single stage paint massive metalics first time didn't like results. I learned must spray as wet as you can then that's your look.i tried fixing first time with cutting and buffing. It was a nightmare I lost 500 bucks worth of paint.redid it wet,wet wet.and it looks great now couple small runs but for not a professional looks pretty dam good.i don't think single stage paint likes cutting and buffing in my opinion!!!
Dude, I’ve been paint&body technician for 35+ years, when I noticed this video, my left eye lid started quivering I thought I was having a stroke, I’m not trying to hurt your feelings what you’re doing work wise looks pretty square and solid with your application of materials and use in practice of materials is completely wrong. Man!! You scaring me.
You use single stage metallic and you can see the bad distribution of the metallics . You didn't flow out the paint you supposed to dust it out side to side .
There's going to be so many waves in that paint you should be using 1500 grit on a paint if you don't have an acrylic and then go to your two thousand and then go to your 3 everything needs to be cut down flat with a paint stick
