When i found you i was looking up rust repair because i live in Michigan. I was just admiring this paint job a second time and saw the license plate. Now i know why you got so good at rust repair ! 😆
Excellent work, Jerry! Thank you for the breakdown list of supplies and process, it helps us regular guys get a feel for the details that can make or break a repair and refinish. Considering the extensive damage to the right rear of that Mustang, you definitely gave it a new lease on life. It looks great!
It's a nice little car. I like driving it, mach 460 factory stereo (loud), loaded and everything works - decent gas mileage too (v6) - Glad you enjoyed the series of videos on this car. Nice hearing from you again too :)
So many people say "you have to have a 60 or 80 gallon compressor or you CAN'T paint cars" While it would be awesome to afford one, I have a 20 gal. And guns that work within the cfm range I have. I enjoyed the video and will go thru and catch up on many more!
Thanks - if you have ?'s that you want answered feel free to ask. I will give you an answer that I know for sure is correct or I will say, "I don't know." Have a good week :)
Wow, that looks great, Jerry! I hope to spray some single stage acrylic urethane on my truck, soon, and have been worrying about needing a spray booth. Seeing the excellent results you are getting without a booth is very reassuring. Thanks for making these down-to-earth videos. They are very helpful to a weekend warrior, like me 👍Tony
Glad you liked it and no you don't need a spray booth. My dad worked at a place called JR's Custom Paint in the 70's - they did custom van's with mermaids, mountain scenes, etc. Absolutely beautiful deep clear coat - perfect paint jobs without a paint booth - corvettes, hot rods, vans everything - no booth.
Great video as usual. Colors like red can be very pricey buying from the local parts store, this can be a great alternative. Your work turned out great. Very well done!
Thanks Bill - red is unbelievably expensive. That's why I used TCP Global Resto Shop. Got a price for over 400 just the paint (Nason) single stage urethane. Add in the hardener and reducer and it easily tops 500. That's probably cheap stuff too!
From what I've heard, and haven't confirmed,is that they need gold to make red paint. If that's the case ,that explains the 40$ quart of single stage enamel I got about 6yrs ago for a project.
As a former Australian car painter I am enjoying your content. I still do the odd car repaint and only use single stage for health and safety . Thanks and best wishes
Greetings from St Helen, Michigan. I'll bet it's nice in Australia. Good to hear you're still into the painting. You're welcome and have a great weekend :)
HAVEN'T USED SINGLE STAGE IN A LONG TIME BEEN PAINTING MAIL TRUCKS AND FEDEX TRUCKS .I'M GETING READY TO PAINT A DODGE GRAND CARAVAN WITH SPEEDO KOTE HOT ROD BLACK NOW THATS GOING TO BE FUN FEDEX TRUCKS ARE A PAIN THEY BOTH GET BASE CLEAR .AND AGAIN GREAT JOB YOU MAKE IT LOOK EASY
Thanks. Hot rod black is a cool look. I have felt your pain. At one time where I worked we were painting city truck cabs on dump trucks, flat beds, etc. Lots of sand blasting, door bottoms, rust repair and misery. It was the summer to so boss wanted the blasting done outside (nice hot sun to work under).
Awesome results and it looks like you did all the spraying in one day with no cut and buff. Sweet! I think I will try this on my 55 with the TCP products (when temperatures permit.)
Jerry Can you cut and buff Metallic Single Stage paint if you end up with a lot of orange peel? Many folks say not to due to the metallic particles. Is that a myth or a fact? Frank @@LakesideAutobody
Jerry Can you cut and buff Metallic Single Stage paint if you end up with a lot of orange peel? Many folks say not to due to the metallic particles. Is that a myth or a fact? Frank @@LakesideAutobody
You're welcome. I think you'll like this paint. Make sure you buy an extra gallon of reducer - the paint needs to be reduced a bit more than what comes in the kit :)
Very helpful. That gun seems to work very nicely (of course it takes a knowledgeable hand to wield it). I know you state you have a box fan for ventilation but I can see that the garage fills up with mist pretty heavily. I would really recommend some kind of disposable suit when doing this as your skin absorbs all that toxic mist pretty easily. Puts quite a strain on the ol' liver. Don't want to see your life shortened.
Thanks - I really should have a window or vent on the other end of the garage for flow through - maybe a louvered vent or something. Thank you for your concern - I'll look into some protective clothing :)
@@LakesideAutobody .......so it's been a year, are you still painting in your underwear 🤣. Seriously, this juice is nasty in the pours. BTW, nice work👍
And surely you need an air fed mask to spray that safely. I dont believe the respirators properly filter out the isocyanates which I think are present in that paint.
@@gracht24 You can use this - 3M 07193 Dual Cartridge Respirator Assembly Organic Vapor - the reason they push fresh air is because folks rarely change out their masks i.e. keep using the same one for years. Heck for $26, you can get a new one for every paint job.
I like the sound of your compressor like a swiss watch hehe . Nice tutorials , greetings from Croatia. I improved my respray by watching your videos , thank you and wish you success in your future projects.
Lakeside Autobody It is very nice place to live here in Croatia. Not easy like in any country you must work hard to achieve your goals and success. Must be good place for fishing there in lake. What I like in your videos you use same sprayguns like me and similar workshop. On some other videos from other users they they use paintbooth worth $10000000 and most expensive guns but preparation is zero. In my opinion preparation is 90% of success. Same like guys who polish brand new cars or few years old car ang general public is blind can’t see bullshit. Many of them can learn from you .
Just found your site and really enjoy watching you work. Wish I lived in your area I have a 1937 chevy 2 Dr SD street rod that needs a fresh paint job. I have been considering calling the mobile glass blaster to take it down to bare metal and doing it myself. Instead of the 16,000 $ the paint shop quoted
I wished you lived near me too - I need some car guys around me! You can do this yourself and you found the right channel to help you with that. Feel free to ask any ?s you need to as you go along - I get to them 1-2 times a day. Jerry
You're right - it really is good stuff. I think I could have laid it on a little heavier but I didn't feel like sanding out any runs - I real happy with it :)
@@jamesbarlowjr.3762 TCP Global is a paint supply distributor. Restoration Shop is the Brand of paint. The also sell Hot Rod Flatz and House of color. People like and use The Restoration Shop Acrylic Urethane single stage becausew it seems to be a quality product and the paint kits at TCP are fairly cheap. around 189.00 for the one gallon kit. which after mixing 4:1 gives 5qts to use and includes filters and stir sticks. Restoration shop says their 4:1 single stage does not require reducer but they do sell it for those that use it. Lots of videos on Restoration shop paint. Lakesside's are good DIY videos.
Looks very good for a single stage urethane. I finally got the rest of my welding equipment fixing to do rust repair on both my Integras and get them painted before fall gets here. Thanks for all your helpful videos.
Gotta say man, looks pretty snazzy!!! Great job. I have this exact car... It's a 01 they are starting to show their age and mine is no different it needs a paint job... Mine is white thinking of staying with the white.
Wow that looks amazing you are very good at everything I have seen you do on your channel and have learned alot thank you brother and keep the videos coming! God bless you
These videos are a gold mine of practical "how-to's" from a master. Okay. What kind of sealer do you use and can I spray acrylic lacquer over it? Also, on the mist coat of the acrylic enamel, do you add in extra reducer to over-thin it? If not, I don't understand the purpose of the mist coat after a super-wet coat. About the bugs, here in west TN this time of year they would be crawling all through it! Can hardly get lacquer laid down and still have to sand them out. Thank you again for all these fantastic videos!
The sealer is Auto Body Master Sealer Gray SG1 from Auto Value autoparts store $48/gal. Yes, you can spray lacquer over it. On the mist coat, your right, I usually spray it a little thinner to help it melt in nicely. The mist coat is only to distribute the metallic flakes evenly so that there is no mottling - like throwing a handful of grass seed up in the air to spread it evenly. On bugs - paint during the day and pick those suckers out as soon as they land in it (eye brow tweezers) - give it a heavy shot of paint to flatten his tracks out. Worst case - you might have to wet sand the spot and buff. Here's on older vid on bugs in the paint it may help you out a bit - Hope I answered you ?s - Jerry
I think your video finally convinced me to go single stage on my semi, I didn't want to spend thousands of dollars on a paint job and from my understanding this AU paint hardens very well with chip resistance which is a big issue with big rigs running up and down the road daily.... Thanks for your great videos they really help and inspire d.i.y.er's like myself!!
Nason single stage Urethane is great paint too - a bit more $ but sprays real nice. You can purchase it locally too I believe - depends on where you live but you can usually find it near by. Here is the Nason Acrylic Enamel - they have Ful-Cry or Ful- Thane. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2H3UHCgQu2Q.html . Single stage is the way to go especially if you are saving money and you are using a solid color (no metallic flakes).
@@tyflesh That will work. It's actually darn good paint for the price. Shined real well, flowed nicely, dried fast and hardened like higher priced paints. The grey with metallic flake would be a cool color on a semi :)
Awesome paint job! Love the color and the car. But if I may ask, what is the difference between a "wet" coat and a "dry" coat and how do you achieve each? Appreciate any thoughts and thanks for the video. Great job.
To put it simply, your last coat is going to be the wettest. You want to put that coat on as wet as possible w/o running it. You can spray wetter on the hood, rood and deck lid but be careful on side panels and around body lines - paint can gather and sag :)
looks good. spray on 2 tone tomorrow, white top and chestnut body. original....i have the 2hp craftsman, but i am going to use a 6.5 hp craftsman as the cfm on it is 15 vs 5. hopefully last question, what is air pressure on painting and mist? using a spectrum 1.3 tip and 9cfm gun. and if i paint top first, how long to dry enough to cover in plastic with no tape to shield from painting body. thank you so much for help.
Sorry about the late reply. The air pressure on the mist or drop coat is about 5 psi more that you were using. Back up a bit and crop dust it if you have a bit of mottling or blotchy spots. Don't worry about spraying the base coat on the dry side to eliminate tiger stipes and mottling. The clear will still lay flat if you lay it on wet. Hope that helps - let me know how it goes for you my friend :)
@@LakesideAutobody I am shooting Nason Fulthane single stage, thanks to your video, the painting today was perfect.! I am very happy with results, painted 7 hours ago, just the roof, as it is a different color. and still has wet look I wanted. I am going to wait 5 days to paint body, as we have a week of crappy weather, I am painting in a 3 car garage with open sides that I have plastic sides up, using a torpedo heater, so far so good... the real test is the body , as I have never painted metalic before, this video sure helps, thanks again, I will apply your tips.
Great job collectively I love your style and dedication to your work and producing videos , great job my friend you got my vote , take care and thank you
Thanks Matt - I like the color (TCP Global Restoration Shop Paint) - it came really close to the original Ford Fire Red Pearl (Nason) which was a bit pricey.
I bought the extra gallon of reducer. I think it needs to be thinned more than the instructions say. I have the mix ration I used in the description. Thanks and have a good weekend :)
Awesome results, I'm getting trouble with that single stage metallic also from TCP global, Im getting heavy orange peel, is because the wrong reducer or should I thin a bit more? Moving faster avoid orange peel? If not metallic the dust coat is also necessary?, Thanks in advance
If you are getting orange peel there are a few cures: 1) make sure your gun is clean - should be spraying the most paint possible 2) use more reducer - TCP was thick I reduced it almost 1 part paint to 1 part reducer. 3) Use a slower reducer - paint will flow a bit better 4) get it wetter. If you're spraying solid colors (no metallic flakes), there's no need for a drop/dust coat. Let me know how it goes :)
Learned my lesson on single stage. Did my mustang in single stage urethane and looked great for about 2 yrs. Now looks pasty. Give it a buff and polish and maybe looks good for 2 months if im lucky. About the repaint again but will be using 2 stage and better quality.
Single stage holds up as well as BC/CC. Did you use the correct amount of hardener? Correct reducer? Mix it right? What brand was it? Truthfully - single stage is perfectly fine and will hold up forever :)
@@LakesideAutobody I mixed it according to the spec sheets for the paint. I paid very close attention to the ratios and measured every step. Sorry I cant remember the name off the top of my head, Id have to look thru my records. Like I said car looked great for about 2 years then gets a chalky look anywhere sun hits its. Once buffed I cant let the car see much sun at all before it gets back. My other major grip is anything will stain the paint that touches and require to buff out that spot, I mean just dirt from your hands. Maybe it was just a bad paint I dunno but Ive never had any of that happen with BC/CC to this point.
@@markrogers7304 Sounds to me like it was a poor quality paint - I believe what you say though - I've come across a few brands of paint, primer, filler, etc. that I just don't like - it just doesn't work. Stick with what works for you my friend - thanks for the comments and good talking to you :)
@@LakesideAutobody prob so on poor quality. All I remember is I got it from tcpglobal. Might have been Kirker...??? I know I also used black satin single stage on some accents and that still looks as good as day I sprayed. Since I've had car since 07 and money I've put into it, it's 1 I'm never selling. 2004 Mach 1
The car looks awesome. I just painted my truck cab and had a lot of orange peel. (My air pressure was too low and I didn’t reduce the paint). So I am wet sanding with 1500 grit as seen in your video. Could I clear coat now? Or just cut and buff? This is single stage copper pearl. I put 3coats on but just worried about thickness after sanding. Thanks Paul
As long as you haven't sanded through you should be OK. Try a small section and see if you like the look. I wet sanded and buffed the truck lid on this car because of a bug in the paint - you can check it out at the end of the video - it won't mess with the metallic as long as you don't go crazy sanding :)
Thank you for making this video! I used the TCP single stage urethane solid. It seemed no matter what I tried, I had orange peel. With wet sanding and buffing it came out great, but i would be afraid to use the metallic due to the potential for orange peel. How much if any did you have and what advice would you give to reduce or eliminate the orange peel if I were to try the single stage metallic?
This paint is sort of thick so you'll have to reduce it quite a bit. Like even 4 parts paint to 2-3 parts reducer - use a slower reducer if it's drying too fast :) I think you'll be fine just using a bit more reducer though - let me know how it goes.
Single stage metallic is sort of hard to spray. You can get mottled, blotchy looking paint because of the way metallic flakes behave when too wet. With BC/CC you can spray your base somewhat dry which is perfect for metallic flake distribution and then get it nice and wet with the clear. On this job and other SS metallic paint you'll want to use a mist or drop coat on your last time around the car to make sure the metallic is "right". Here's a video on that technique - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-yGCpM6Cwhb0.html even though this was basecoat , the same applies to single stage (SS) Basically BC/CC is easier than SS when it comes to metallic paint. If you are spraying a solid color - go with SS :)
Firstly, thank you so much for your videos. They are so helpful. I noticed 3 parts of reducer. Is that the trick to this paint to ensure it’s nice and flat? I also noticed you’re pretty far away with the gun. It that to avoid runs? Thanks again
This paint is a bit on the thick side so yes, reducer is a must. Use what you are comfortable with though. As for the gun and distance. I grew up with older guns - they had smaller patterns than today. Again use the pattern you are comfortable with. Wide or medium width - they both work fine. I move fast so a smaller pattern works better for me thus the distance away from the panel. Pattern really doesn't have much to do with how well your paint job turns out. That's all internet, TV, magazine stuff. Heck, I've seen really nice paint jobs using a spray bomb cans - not a very wide pattern there at all ✌
I know this is an older vid but I just found your channel about a week ago. That looks really nice. Wish you were about 800mls closer. I"d love for you to paint my 88 Bronco. What do you charge for a single stage job?
I actually just work on cars from COPART or flip rust buckets. I can only work on my own stuff as this is a country but residential neighborhood. Prices are all over the map but I'd estimate prices range anywhere from $1500 and up mostly because of material costs.
Fantastic! 2 questions. Would wet sanding the primer before paint benefit anything or just spray color after primer dries? For this type of single stage paint can you cut and buff afterwards if you wanted? Turned out looking great!
The benefit of wet sanding your primer before paint is a smooth surface to paint over, excellent adhesion (paint), you can catch any last imperfections. You can cut and buff single stage solid colors and metallics :)
The video and comments together are the best instructions I have seen on how to spray single stage metallic. Thank you. I am planning to spray for the first time an 85 Corvette with single stage metallic and appreciate the effort in putting the video together and in answering the questions in the comments. The question I have is how to best prep the fiberglass on this car. I have chemically stripped and then sanded in progression 80, 150, and 220 grit. There is now a mix of the original black sealer coat and some white gel coat showing. When passing my hand over the panels, they feel straight with the exception of 3 or 4 places where the sander may have caught an edge and dug a little too deep. I am inclined to spray 3-4 coats of 2K primer then block sand it. Do you think this is the best approach or would you skip the 2K and just use a single part sealer?
You've got it right with the urethane primer surfacer. After it dries, give it a dusting of black spray bomb paint as a guide coat and block sand. This video may help - it is also on a fiberglass hood - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Phd8cvKmapo.html Glad you liked the video my friend - let me know if you have any more ?s - Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody In that video you use quite a lot of reducer but you are spraying over some primer that has already been applied. If I wanted to err on the side of filling more scratches and low spots would I use maybe only one part or even no reducer or is it better to use more reducer and more coats?
@@paulpainter3065 The problem when painting an entire car is trying to keep the paint wet enough so that it lays out flat - little to no orange peel. With thicker paint you'll battle the orange peel a bit but yes, it will hide more imperfections. It's up to you how much reducer you use - maybe try a a few test panels - or metal coffee cans to practice on - see how your mix is :)
Project completed and decent results for first time painting. My son did the spraying since it is his car. We copied your method almost exactly. Here is the link to the results. drive.google.com/drive/folders/1rfyDOJkGTmMBi2DsDhFhwrrARK6WcCYj?usp=sharing Thanks again.
@@paulpainter3065 Wow! That looks great - your son did a fine job. If you want you can upload some pictures to the Lakeside Autobody Discord. I'm sure other folks would love to see that - discord.com/invite/Qm6qJgcubu Again - great job and your car looks really nice.
So if I did a single stage and wanted(or maybe needed) to wet sand and buff Would I have to wait 2 or 3 weeks? I've decided to give single stage a try and don't expect it will come out perfect first go. But I feel it's a safer choice than base/clear when working at home. And I've seen some nice looking single stage jobs (including yours here). All paint jobs were single stage for decades, so good enuf for me and the not-really-showcars I drive.
Automotive paint with a hardener can be sanded and buffed the next day but to be on the safe side I'd wait a day or two. You will b fine with single stage - let me know if you have any ?s along the way and let me know how it goes :)
This is great!! I just bought single stage acrylic urethane metallic paint from tcp global and found your video. I plan to watch the video a few times to get your sequence down. This gives me some confidence, Thanks!
Try it on a metal coffee can first - that will give you the feel for it. Every paint is different so you'll want to get used to it of get familiar with it so you don't run it or spray it too dry :)
@@LakesideAutobody In reading your material list and some answers below, I see you used a reducer. I have the exact same TCP Global same paint kit, but british racing green. It comes with the hardener, and I'm wondering if I should get some reducer as well ? I live in Encanto/National City temp wise.
I really enjoyed this whole series, thank you for sharing your knowledge and ability and for keeping the ego out…….some of these guys on here act as though they are talking to children……but i just think that youtube is a PUBLIC forum and if the person making the video on whatever subject matter can’t take criticism then maybe they should rethink being on youtube. Not trying to choose sides just saying.
You do have to be able to take criticism for sure - there will be plenty of that but the comments are mostly positive so that's good. Thanks for the support and always checking out the videos my friend :)
You got all the luck. I plan to spray my 17 foot long dodge charger a similar red, and can't imagine painting single sections rather than walking the whole length of the car. Streaks, thin spots, mottling, and overspray...I would love to spray like you did and get the same result..good show!
Just copy exactly what I did in the video. Check out the description for the mix ratio and other stuff that may help. There will always be problems - that you just have to accept. Wish I could be there to help :) Ask all the ?'s you want - I'll answer them. Jerry
Great job brother, especially with that mist coat it's so important with metallics,I did show quality testis for 20 years and that mist coat done properly can't really make or break the lay of the metallic.Thumbs up even though it's a Stang,lol,I do Mostly Mopars and tons of rotten and butchers Camaros.Good videos.,no Basing around or trying to be a personality,
This video reminded me of when I started painting cars in high school, My first car I painted, which was my 57 chevy post. I sprayed it with Ditzler enamel, no booth, just a 24-inch box fan, and house painting contractors 2 horse air compressor with a pressure pot spray gun. LOL.. When your compressor gives up, which to me sounds like it could any day, are you going to upgrade to a two-stage 5hp compressor? I would.
Nice work, I just saw yr video and I was interested in getting a spray gun like yours, unfortunately they don’t make that model anymore. I’m new to painting, Is there a spray gun that does the same job that you can recommend? Thanks again!
You can't go wrong with a Sharpe FX3000 HVLP Spray Gun 1.4mm tip. If you are looking for something cheaper - the purple spray gun from Harbor Freight works great along the Black Widow spray gun from HF. One more that can be purchased at Home Depot is the Cambell Hausfeld HVLP Gravity Feed (DH790000AV) very good all around spray gun.
Great video...I am doing my 2003 gt convertible right now..these videos really help out...REQUEST..can you do a video on what kind of modern paint gun , regulator , compressor set up you would use for this type of job???..i seen your old video and it is helpful but most of the equipment you listed are hard to find..tgat Sears compressor is difficult..thx..B1
Is the process the same for a satin metallic? I am going to be spraying TCP Global Custom Coat - Gunmetal Gray Metallic Satin on my 1979 F250 in the near future. I am almost done with bodywork but haven't blocked or primed yet. Also, what is the most efficient method for filling rust pitting? I had to hit the roof and bedsides down to bare metal with an angle grinder with a wire wheel to get the rust out. I have gotten most of my bondo and dent pulling done, and all metal patches on. This truck has very light pitting on the hood, roof, and bedside tops I have yet to completely fill. Thanks.
Same process for color you bought - as long as it is the single stage paint. For filling rust pitting, just sand blast it out or at least do your best grinding it out or wire brushing it out - you can use rust converter but not necessary if you blast it. Then just fill with body filler, sand , prime, block, etc. Basically, blast, fill, prime, paint.
another timely video I have only used TCP GLOBAL SINGLE-STAGE PAINT in the past I switched over to NASON URETHANE-both gave me good results; I was told that the TCP line of paints is formulated by PPG- SHOP LINE OR OMNI? Doesn,t matter to me the paint works good; and it's affordable /great for D.I.Y.ers thank again PATRICK.P
Sound like that may be true because it really reminded me of the old Dupont Centari or PPG Ditzler Delstar whatever their enamel was in the 80's. Sprayed the same. I love Nason too but they wanted $466 for just the paint (gallon).
This video gave me an idea. I just sanded the hood down on my 02 f150 supercrew that is E4 red. Several areas of the hood where I went down to bare metal I sprayed grey primer. After looking at that mustang I might just paint that hood with black primer and see how that works and delay painting it back to red. That might look super
@@LakesideAutobody I have seen that scheme on some ford f150s that have that 97 to 03 body style and some even came with the black center grill and they had a sports name and Ive seen some with flat black hoods with regular colors on doors and fenders, so it does exist. BTW, I did subscribe to your channel and yours is the first when it comes to auto paints and repair and painting and mixture. Youre a person I could easily work with
Wish i would've seen this video before i painted my car with single stage.my car don't want to keep a shine.mix ratio was rite compressor was set rite but i don't know.thanks for the great video definitely gonna subscribe.
Just saw the video and was wondering about the reducer. I've used the same paint but gotten orange peel. Trying to show my students how to do an inexpensive paint job and could use advice on this paint.
You have to reduce this stuff about 4 parts paint to 3-4 parts reducer. I used medium temp reducer (their brand) but maybe if you have some high temps go with the slower reducer. Same amount of hardener as recommended. Take a look under the video description for all the details on this paint job. Let me know how it goes :)
Nice work. She came out nice. Thanks for sharing your skills and knowledge. I've been looking at the Restoration Shop paints. They have a lot of color options. Keep up the good work. Thanks again.
Great video! Does anything get messed up/covered up painting in the garage like that? I see u have a lot of stuff around where you are spraying. Looking to spray my 88gt mustang convertible in my garage blue
Yes it gets dusty and even a bit of dry overspray but you can cover the important stuff with old sheets or even real cheap plastic drop cloth from Home D. I just keep the real important stuff in boxes on the shelf or in the tool box. It eventually disappears anyway though :)
Here's one on water removal - I keep it real simple - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CSGAgAyeInA.html Here's one on compressors used - again nothing special - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-53miAObOdVY.html Finally - no booth - you actually don't need one - just a box fan to pull fumes out. All of the dust you get in a paint job is already on the panel before the first coat - here's a vid on that - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-VNrIwVMxjI0.html Some tricks for zero dust are shown :)
My biggest question is this why are you spraying 16 inches away from panle with a really tiny spray pattern? Does this help the paint lay better or something? Can't argue the result it don't look bad at all just wondering.
It's really about 8 inches away from the panel and you are actually not seeing the whole pattern. It's really just shy of a wide open fan. It's a 1.4 mm fluid tip too so... It was spraying enough paint for me - I suppose I could have got it wetter but that's the first time using TCP global - I didn't want to walk back out to the garage and see it laying on the floor :)
Get yourself a gun with a wider fan it will really make your life alot easier... It's like cuting a lawn with a mower that has a 60 inch deck VS a 30 inch deck, who gets the lawn cut faster? 60 inch.... In painting its all about geting the coats on as fast and wet as possible. Wish you were closer we could do a collaboration video!
@@speedokoterefinishnetwork4937 In the 80's I sprayed lots of single stage metallic paint like centari and I did find that if the pattern was a bit tighter It would eliminate the tiger stripes so I probably got used to moving faster with a tighter pattern. I'll check out some of the new guns though - thanks. That would be real cool to do a collab vid - What state do you live in?
I buy that on Amazon or Ebay - ACDelco GM Original Equipment 10-2013 Body Joint and Seam Filler Compound - 10.1 oz I like it a lot - dries fast, white, paintable, flexible :)
Most of my experience is with AlumaGrip polyurethane single stage the of the 80's and 90's vintage, centarri, Conar and the original imron, yes airplanes. I was thinking about using this system and possibly this color. I wouldn't think this paint would be much different. i will be painting an 83 full size Chevy truck. outside, jams, inside the doors and much of the interior. I will not be top coating the bed as it will be a bed liner. Would I have much trouble covering this with 2 gallons with reducing it approxmently the same?
I think you would be fine. The paint is thick so you have to reduce quite a bit - which means more paint :) Make sure you order an extra gallon of reducer. It's thicker than Centari. I used to reduce Centari at around 2 parts paint to 1 part reducer. This stuff I reduced close to 1 part paint to 1 part reducer. Every ones different though so... Let me know how it goes for you and what you think of the paint - Happy New Year :)
Nice job! We have found that the bugs (insects) are attracted to the red colors. being close to the lake, do you have the same problem with the bug attraction?
You are absolutely right! I was golfing yesterday with a red hat - my son had a blue one on. I was getting killed by deer flies and he was not. Must have be the red. I did get one fly in the deck lid but I picked him out and buried the spot with some heavy spray so it would flow out a bit. We really don't get a lot of bugs around here for some reason. Not a lot of trees so maybe that's why. Have a good weekend :)
I have a long bed crew cab chevy truck I am restoring , about how much of this paint would you say I need , and can I paint one section at a time with good results , Like the front fenders one day and maybe the cab another ? Your channel is great and am binge watching back episodes now .
You can get away with a gallon if you don't spray the bed. If you're spraying the bed, door jambs etc. you'll need more. A quart is quite expensive so you might as well buy two gallons and have them mixed at the same time so the color is the same. Or mix them together yourself. That being said, Yes you can paint one panel at a time. It's easier with solid colors as metallic paint could look a bit different depending on how you spray it each time. Thanks for watching and glad you like it. I have some good videos coming up that I think you'll like. Have a good weekend John :)
Great paint job. I have always stayed away from metallic single stage paint jobs. Only because I wound up with dry spray. How did you put on that last coat and not wind up with a flat dry spray?
Go around the vehicle twice on the last coat. You can even throw some more reducer in on the last cup of paint so that it all melts in real well. 2nd time around will be your mist coat or drop coat to make sure your metallic flakes are evenly distributed (no mottling). Ask again if that don't make sense :)
@@randabuffer6562 I don't think that would be a good idea - might no mix well with the paint. Not saying it wouldn't work but usually you try to play it safe and use the recommended products - no special recipes :) If you try it and it works - tell me about it :)
You can add more reducer to make it wetter for sure. The mist coat is a coat that is sprayed like dusting crops..... you want to sort of make sure your metallic flakes are distributed evenly. Here's a video on that - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-yGCpM6Cwhb0.html
Man....you made me nervous with your shirt. LOL My luck I'd get it in the paint. Looks good I have only ever painted one car with base coat and clear coat. Dupont Centari and Nelson used to easy to buy at the parts store and look good.
Dupont makes great paint as well as PPG. I saw that too with my shirt - it's a real bummer dragging something across fresh paint. Gotta wait till it drys - wet sand and try again.
So you used sealer to make the whole car the same color before you painted it so you didnt have to spray heavier on the primed areas right? Turned out gorgeous by the way
just curious, since this is a single stage metallic, would the drop coat at the end leave nasty orange peel? I mean it doesn't look like it did in your video but whenever I've painted metallics bc/cc the last drop coat always leaves nasty peel but then the clear seems to fill all that in and i hardly get any peel by the end of it.
Great questions. The key is timing. I can't stress that enough. Just after the last coat there is a small window in which the paint is wet enough to accept the drop coat and not have orange peel - yet - dry enough to allow the flakes to stay put as they land randomly and look even not blotchy. Too early and it just gets wetter and doesn't work. Too late = dry spray and orange peel. Hope that helps :)
@@nick9198 You're welcome. For example, if you spray a whole car - right after you go around it with the last coat, go around again with the drop coat. In other words on an overall paint job you don't even have to wait - hope that's understandable :)
Would you recommend the 3 coats + a mist coat for a first time painter? I'm over budget with the cheapest single stage paint (it's urethane) from my local shop. They said mix it 4-1-1. Your panel patch videos especially have been a huge help. Thank you
Depends on the situation. Sometimes you can get away with two coats - last being somewhat of a double coat with the mist coat. Once it's colored, you're good - just make sure the metallic flakes are nice and even. You can mix it 4 parts paint to 1 part hardener to as much reducer as you prefer. Paint and hardener has to be right on but the reducer is up to you. Personally I prefer paint that's a bit thinner as it gets wetter and flows out better in warm weather :)
Thanks for the video. I have a 1982 GMC truck with a rootbeer metal flake single stage from the factory. I have done some touch ups on the truck, but by the time I buff out the paint the metal flake is muted and the paint just looks brown. I bought the paint from a local paint store that supplies all the local body shops and they used the original paint codes. After painting how do I finish the job? Should I be sanding or buffing? Any help would be appreciated.
In the 70's, 80's, etc there was just single stage metallic paint - lacquer or enamel and we sanded and buffed both with out a problem. I suppose the key is to spray it well enough to just have to lightly sand out the nibs, any dust/dirt, and light orange peel. Don't want to sand to deep and have and effect on the metallic flakes. After lightly sanding with 1000 or finer buff and you'll be fine. I wet sanded and buffed the deck lid on this car - you can see the results at the end of the video :)
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks! I noticed that you used a sealer over the top of the primer and old paint. The sealer was also darker than the primer. I only used primer. It was a very light grey and was a real you-know-what to cover. I blew through a lot of paint. Maybe that made the paint too dark and messed me up? How big a role does the color of the sealer make in the final look of the paint? What should I have used instead, something darker seems to make sense. OEM Code for paint is: 68, WAEM7481, WA7481. Any hints on a spray gun, nozzle size for shooting metallic? I don't do this for a living so I'm looking for something $200 or lower. Btw, I have watched several of your other videos since this first one. Very helpful!
@@femorous The reason guys use sealer is to avoid what you are talking about. Sealer (no matter what color really) gets it all one color so you are not fooled while painting - thinking, "is this lighter?" or "is this darker?" etc. They do make different color sealers but I never saw the need. Heck if I'm doing a white car I'll give it one light coat of regular primer (light grey) to act as a sealer and help me get it covered faster. If you painting a dark color, use the regular dark sealer. Sealer really doesn't have a huge effect on the overall coverage as your paint should really cover in about 2-3 coats. A decent brand paint will cover in 2-3 coats. Hope that all helps a bit :)
@@LakesideAutobody Great help! I looked closely at the hood and noticed that under the 40 year old original paint the sealer was indeed black, not grey or white. I bought some black sealer and plan to give it a go in a week. Thanks again.
It's pretty nice paint. The truth is... nothing shined like the 1980's Dupont Centari single stage enamel with hardener - it would lay down flat as glass and even flatter after you left the spray booth or garage - it would keep leveling even after you sprayed. Awesome paint!
