DIY - 2023 Mazda CX-30 SkyActiv-X: Install a dashcam and its fused power supply

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The first job we're doing on our new Mazda CX-30, which has just replaced the Kia Sportage, is to install a dash-cam and its associated power supply. We're not using a power supply that plugs into the cigarette lighter port, as that wouldn't look very nice; instead, we're using one that's fused and which piggybacks over the Audio fuse available inside the passenger compartment. The wiring is completely hidden behind the interior trim and emerges in front of the rear-view mirror, immediately next to the dash-cam itself.
Disclaimer: This video was made in the hope that it will be useful to other DYI-ers that work on the same vehicle model. The author of the video is not responsible for any kind of personal injury, property damage etc. that may arise if anybody tries to perform the same job on an identical or otherwise similar vehicle based on the contents of the video. Every DIY operation performed on your vehicle poses direct or indirect safety risks to you and those around you. Before attempting any such DIY job, please make sure that you have all the necessary tools, support and confidence to see it through successfully.

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Опубликовано:

7 фев 2024

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Комментарии : 28

@confuseatronica 2 месяца назад

yessss thank you this is exactly what i wanted to see before doing it myself- especially in this car which is so awkward to work on because of the windshield rake; I don't want to have to do anything more than once!

@TheMissingBolt Месяц назад

Glad I could help!

@buckgb Месяц назад

Comprehensive, good job.

@TheMissingBolt Месяц назад

Thank you! 🙂

@vincentlee2460 3 месяца назад

At 9 min video, i wish to say that you need not lower the fuse rating as the 12volt is split into 2 different wires that carry the independent fuse to power 2 items, one for the Audio and the other for the camera. The 2 fuses are not in series connection but its split. If you remove the Audio fuse and leave the camera fuse connected, the camera will still continue to work. But if you reverse the plug a circuit plug adapter wrongly, then when the audio fuse blow, the camera would also stop working

@TheMissingBolt 3 месяца назад

The lowering of the fuse is needed (and mandatory) due to what happens up to the fuse, not from the fuse onwards. Had I kept the 15A fuse in addition to the 5A fuse, the wires from the fuse-box to the audio and camera modules would have been protected correctly, but the wire from the battery to the fuse-box would have been at risk of overload and potential fire, since at its limit it might have needed to carry 20A instead of its rated 15A (as currents sum up on the same circuit).

@vincentlee2460 3 месяца назад

@@TheMissingBolt no

@vincentlee2460 3 месяца назад

You.need to know how the add a device wire is made and joined inside

@TheMissingBolt 3 месяца назад

@@vincentlee2460My man, this is not a debate on the internals of a newly-added component...this is basic electrical knowledge - Kirchoff's first law. If the circuit is rated for 15 A and you add another circuit of 5A without reducing the initial fuse from 15 A down to 10 A, then you are no longer limiting the input current coming into the fuse box on that particular circuit to 15 A, but to 20 A, something the physical wire which feeds the fuse(s) is guaranteed to not be rated for. If you don't agree, feel free to keep the 15 A fuse in place, but if your car is still under warranty and the dealer sees it, you'll lose the warranty on your electrical system immediately. Sure, if the actual currents are small enough you'll be fine, but you are introducing a fire risk to your car - that is the problem.

@vincentlee2460 3 месяца назад

The add a wire splits the electrical path into 2 independent electrical paths. One path is the car's original fuse, the other electrical path is for the new accessory with another new fuse. These 2 fuses are independent, they are NOT connected in series. The current is now split into 2 parts but the voltage is still the same. But dash cam don't draw a lot of current so we can ignore it as insignificant

@Emexrulsier 2 месяца назад

You are not correct on the use of a 10amp fuse in replacement of the original 15amp. That would mean the radio center control in normal operation, which could draw more than 10amps would blow the 10amp fuse and fail to operate, it doesn't share the load over both fuses at the same time to equal 15amp. The same like the dash cam, if that drew more than 5amps, lets say there was a fault, it wouldn't get ignored because you have a 10 or 15amp fuses already there, it would blow the 5amp fuse and cut power. The "piggyback" fuse connectors are wired in parralel not in series (even in series your 10+5amp fuse scenario would be wrong).

@TheMissingBolt 2 месяца назад

Indeed, the radio is designed to take up to 15 Amps and now I've reduced it to 10 Amps, simply because I couldn't source 2 fuses of 12 - 13 Amps for the Audio and only 2 - 3 Amps for the camera. Which is why I tested the Audio on full volume, together with video, to see if it holds with the lower 10 Amp limit (and it does just fine). Since the camera has its own dedicated fuse, in case of failure the 5 Amp fuse should cut first and only disable the camera... but in the worst case, the setup ensures that no more than 15 Amps are ever drawn on the combined circuit from the battery (as I've explained in another comment, we have to maintain a total of 15 Amps to protect the wire that comes from the battery and into the fuse box fort that particular circuit).

@Emexrulsier Месяц назад

@TheMissingBolt yeah in his video if the load was greater than 10amps it would blow, but according to him no it wouldn't because the 10amp fuse would magically fuse(no pun) together with the 5amp fuse to create a single 15amp. Is this some sort of terminator t1000 liquid metal scenario :)

@TheMissingBolt Месяц назад

@@Emexrulsier Nope, it's simply the application of Kirchoff's 1st law: if both the 10A and 5A wires from the fuse towards the camera and Audio module draw full power, then the current from the battery to the fuse box for that circuit will carry 15A, which is its factory design limit.

@mauriciootalvaroospina9978 5 месяцев назад

Excelent video. I need to connect my Blackvue camera to the power magic pro, it has 3 cables as yours but on the fuse panel all the fuses are batt+ and the manual says i have to connect the BATT+ to a hot fuse and the ACC to one that is off when the car is off. The Mazda CX30 2021 doesnt have an ACC fuse inside de habitacle. What should I do? why did you install the 2 cables toghether? should i have to do that?

@TheMissingBolt 5 месяцев назад

Hi! See the explanation in the video from 14:42 to 17:35 (especially the part from 15:55 to 17:35). The power supply documentation indicates how the red and yellow wires should be connected in order to power up the camera in different modes. Since on the Mazda all the fuses in the driver's compartment are permanently powered on there's no location to connect the yellow wire to in ACC mode. So at least for the power supply I used I had to connect both red and yellow lines to constant power (BATT+ as you say) and this meant the camera is always on, irrespective of whether the engine is on or not. Since this does imply the risk of draining the battery, my power supply has that cut-off switch which is very useful.

@pramzT 3 месяца назад

Great video 👍🏽 maybe a silly question from me but can we not just put a 5amp fuse in an empty slot?

@Emexrulsier 2 месяца назад

You can do, but not all the slots are actually connected to power. Use a multimetre to check, sometimes they are blank because they are used in other countries, such as homelink, but it doesn't mean its actually connected to the battery

@TheMissingBolt Месяц назад

As @Emexrulsier explained, slots without fuses are usually not powered on from the battery, so you can't use them.

@DCHero15 4 месяца назад

Salut, Clipsul din stalpul A, cum l-ai pus inapoi pe trim ? L-ai scos afara din caroserie si reintrodus in plastic si montat iara pe masina ?

@TheMissingBolt 4 месяца назад

Salutare! Nu a fost nevoie sa-l scot din caroserie, insa m-am chinuit cateva minute ca sa-l aliniez corect cu plasticul pentru a-l putea pune la loc. E destul de rigida acea banda neagra, dar e suficient de flexibila cat sa o poti roti 90 de grade pentru aliniere.

@vincentlee2460 3 месяца назад

So your setup will always be recording video until the cutoff voltage kicks in to stop the camera recording.

@TheMissingBolt 3 месяца назад

Correct. Purely because all fuses accessible from inside the cabin are constantly powered.

@roberthouston3809 27 дней назад

What about using the unlabeled ones ..F12 F14 and F23

@TheMissingBolt 27 дней назад

You can check with a multi-meter if there's any voltage on those slots, but usually if there's no fuse connected to them from the factory, then those slots are not powered at all so they won't be of any use.