I've started changing my Camry SE oil at 5,000 miles, I changed my transmission fluid at 60,000 miles and the manual says to change the plugs at 120,000 miles! I've learned a lot about Lexus & Toyota's from "Car Care Nut" here on RU-vid and I bet he would love your videos! You're a TacoMa 😄, Toyota's are the best 🚗💪❤
Good job Chloe. Here are some tips. 1) Iridium sparkplsugs can last 100K. I know manual says change at 60K. 2) To drain power steering fluild and or brake fluid use harbor freight brake fluid extractor #1553 .You need a compressor but works real nice at getting fluid out. 3) To get most power steering fluid out , lift both front tires off ground and turn steering wheel back and forth as you fill and monitor reservoir to flush out fluid. Remove power steering hose incoming to resevoir plug it and put hose in old milk jug to watch fluid to see when it becomes red. When flushed out put hose back and top off fluid.
Thanks for another great video. You have a real talent for creating clear, clean instructional videos. I was always intimidated by how complicated everything looks under the hood, but your videos really helped me get past that and just dive in. Now I feel comfortable doing all my maintenance. I just did the 30,000 and I’m actually looking forward to the next challenge. Thank you so much for all the work you put into this channel. You’re a great teacher and a real inspiration!
Was able to do my 17 Tacoma SR today following your video. Took me two hours and $125.10 in parts to include an adjustable spark plug wrench. Thanks for taking the time to post your video.
Great job Chloe 👍. Doing maintenance by the book and a little bit of over maintenance is the way to do it. That's so awesome that you enjoy doing your own scheduled maintenance 😀. ♥️🌮🐕🐾
Great video Chloe...I always enjoy how clear and concise your instructions are, and how honest you are in explaining any challenges you've experienced along the way as you tackle the maintenace on your Tacoma. As a much older guy who knows his way around cars, I very much respect your "do it yourself" attitude. Great job young lady!
For the power steering, what I found best was to use an old shampoo bottle that has a pump. Stick 3/8 tubing on the shampoo bottle pump where it flows out. Now you have a small long straw, which makes taking out the power steering fluid/brake fluid a lot easier than a turkey baster or that pump you used.
Love your Toyota, I’m sure you’ve heard “The Car Care Nut” channel. Master Toyota tech, all Toyota and Lexus only, tips, DIY, my personal go to how on everything Toyota.
I enjoy your videos and have used them to assist me on two 3rd Gen Tacomas, currently a 2017. Interesting you mention the steering wrack issue. I actually had a dealership warranty when I bought the first Taco that kicked in when the rack and pinon was leaking, so Toyota fixed it. But, now I have another Taco and time to change the spark plugs! I'm grateful you try this stuff before I do. The camera angles are great and you keep it focused and honest. Thanks. I'm always checking your channel.
Hello Chloe, very good job, good for you. My opinion on anti seize, it is not required on modern spark plugs. They already have a film on them to prevent seizing. I would have also applied a little dielectric grease to your coil boots before installation. On another video you cleaned your air filter with K&N cleaner and oil. The instructions say to apply oil only to the dirty side of the filter. Excessive oil can effect or damage your MAF sensor. Keep up the good work.
Yes on anti seize- galvanic corrosion occurs when dissimilar metals make contact. In this case, aluminum cylinder head, steel spark plug. The compound won’t affect torque unless an excessive amount is used. You’ll be glad you used it for the next time.
You are stuck in the 80s bro Just about every spark plug manufacturer will recommend against putting any lubrication on spark plugs. NGK spark plugs, AC Delco, Champion, Bosch, Denso, and more all say to avoid it. The primary reason for this is that almost all modern spark plugs ship with trivalent plating or other types of antiseize compounds already applied. Adding extra lubrication reduces the torque value, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage and metal shell stretch. If the spark plug thread breaks, it can mean removing the cylinder head for repair. Metal shell stretch changes the heat rating of the spark plug and may damage the engine through pre-ignition. It can also create heat transfer and electrical conductivity issues. In almost all cases, adding lubricant is unnecessary and can be detrimental.
@@270eman Each to his own. Changed my factory plugs two years ago. No. 3 cylinder plug was backed out about 1/4" from the factory. The rest did not want to come out. Each one broke loose sounding like it had broken. Same situation on the 2012 GMC Sierra pickup. Sounded and felt like I broke each plug - took allot of strength to get them lose. And when anyone is present when I do this, almost always I can point out galvanic corrosion from dissimilar metals being in contact with each other. You're right - more like stuck in the 70's. Some habits are hard to break. Done allot of racing (Bonneville). We pulled and replaced plugs after every run. Also, 24 years wrenching on a weapon system in the Air Force. Lots and lots of training on torque and how lubricants affect torque, etc. Plus, 45+ years of doing all my own maint. I'll admit, I've never read a box on a plug other than to make sure I had the right one. Never had an issue and don't suspect I will - but I appreciate the info. and I will look into for the next plug change. Just curious, how common is it to have a plug broken off? I've had some that I swore I broke upon removal - they were that difficult to get out. It's hard for me to accept that as normal. Also, how do they address galvanic corrosion (metal plug, aluminum head)? Is it the coating on the threads? The AIr Force required anti seize to prevent this type of corrosion and to prevent damage during periodic maint. Between my families racing and my Air Force training, yeah - I keep on hand anti-seize, for autos, guns, anything mechanical. Thanks for the info.
@@CC-te5zf I would say not that common to break unless you have a 3 Valve Ford Triton engine 😅 However, trivalent metal coatings replaced anti-seize. They have very strong protection against corrosion. The manufacturer recommends against it and here is the explanation from NGK. 5 THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT SPARK PLUGS 1. Anti-seize NGK spark plugs feature trivalent plating. This silver or chrome-colored finish on the threads is designed to provide corrosion resistance against moisture and chemicals. The coating also acts as a release agent during spark plug removal. NGK spark plugs are installed at the factory dry, without lubrication or anti-seize. Anti-seize can act as a lubricant, altering torque values up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage and/or metal shell stretch. Thread breakage can sometimes involve removing the cylinder head for repair. Metal shell stretch changes the heat rating of the spark plug and can result in serious engine damage caused by pre-ignition. Do not use anti-seize or lubricant on NGK spark plugs. It is completely unnecessary and can be detrimental. ngksparkplugs.com/en/resources/5-things-you-should-know-about-spark-plugs
@@270eman Much appreciated. They're right - it can affect values; but, us old farts don't glob it on. A small tube lasts a very long time. But - I will look into this and I sincerely appreciate the info.! Imagine my disgust when I had one that either backed out or was never seated on my Tacoma. The new one went in fine, seated and torqued with no problems. The learning never stops - much appreciated.
@@CC-te5zf Yeah its probably getting into the fine details and honestly ive used anti seize before on my civic plugs and it never caused an issue. I think where people go wrong is globbing a ton of it on there and near the bottom towards the electrode but according to manufacturers its no longer needed so I just quit using it. Never had a plug stick on me.
You are exactly the type of person I want to buy my next "used" car from! I recommend using a conservative amount of copper based anti-seize compound on treads in high heat conditions, such as spark plugs.
I'm with you Chloe.....I do 5k oil change. Now to be factual...my dad is friends with the man who used to own Royal Purple ...no lie. Before he sold it to Calumet Specialty Products I talked with his engineers. They said for example Royal Purple can even go past 10,000 miles easily....but they do recommend a filter change somewhere in there. So I have always been like well if I'm changing the filter its just as easy to do it all. Man I miss Royal Purple. He used to send me 5 gallon bulk containers as well as quarts for all my home needs like 5W30 and SAE 30 etc. When he sold the company that obviously ended. 😔................most new vehicles are spec'd for full synthetic now...but even in the early days when Mobil One was the new rage....that's all I ever used. Keep wrenching !!!! Chloe aren't the plugs Iridium?..if so 50k is way to soon in my opinion.
@@luisgarc93 This was in response to another commenter about putting dielectric grease on coils IF you install them . I just did this last month and the coils indeed come pre-greased.
@@ricksherman34 I’m just saying if you don’t replace your originals coil packs, the grease in them might be dried out. I agree with you if you replace your old packs with new ones.
Another awesome video Chloe very informative I appreciate the info I enjoy watching your channel and learning more trucks 🛻💪🏾😎 keep up the awesome work and have a wonderful weekend
Some of the brackets that are in the way are hard to get to with a couple inch lift on the truck. I find myself up on a step stool constantly just to be able to reach down in there...need a couple extra extenders like you have
Oil on spark is usually due to valve cover tubes leaking. As for the spark plugs. You can put anti seize if you want. Helps if you’re gonna do it next time. It’s not usually recommended cause as stated it does mess with torque spec. But doesn’t matter as long as the spark plug gets out and doesn’t damage threads.
Someone commented similarly below, and I agree. Rotating your tires is not a simple task like checking your oil. You need jacks, jackstands, (probably) the proper torque wrench, etc. If you are capable of all this, you need to be capable of determining whether to criss-cross your tires or not. Do yours the way it should be done; don't worry if someone else fouls it up. I use anti-seize on plugs; always have. Not sure of the recommendation of Denso, but I know NGK says you don't have to use it. Careful not to over-apply and not to over-torque. I use it sparingly on lug nuts also. I've had lug nuts seized on, but never any that loosened from anti-seize.
Great video! That Techron fuel system cleaner makes a difference. Used it on my last car and I noticed small positive differences. Now just gotta use that on my Tacoma!
Anti-sieze on spark plugs is old school stuff that no longer applies: Just about every spark plug manufacturer will recommend against putting any lubrication on spark plugs. NGK spark plugs, AC Delco, Champion, Bosch, Denso, and more all say to avoid it. The primary reason for this is that almost all modern spark plugs ship with trivalent plating or other types of antiseize compounds already applied. Adding extra lubrication reduces the torque value, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage and metal shell stretch. If the spark plug thread breaks, it can mean removing the cylinder head for repair. Metal shell stretch changes the heat rating of the spark plug and may damage the engine through pre-ignition. It can also create heat transfer and electrical conductivity issues. In almost all cases, adding lubricant is unnecessary and can be detrimental.
Thanks for showing this 50 something thousand maintenance video, looks like soon I'll be needing to do these similar maintenance on my tacoma, minus the spark plugs, and fuel cleaner, tire rotation though. Doesn't hurt to be very thorough but, I think I'm just going to replace my plugs at 100-150 thousand miles. Buddy of mine on his gen tacoma over 260,000 miles and he still driving with the original plugs and his truck still drive like new.
Great video. I have to pitch in some science nerd stuff though, anytime you are siphoning fluids, you must prime the tube (liquid in the tube). Especially when there is an incline before the decline. Stick the hose in, fill the hose with fluid, then siphon it all out. Or fill the hose, stick it in, and the second you do, it will force you to siphon.
Hi Chloe , Thank you for all your videos ! I will be doing my 60,000 mile maintenance soon on my 2020 Taco and your attention to detail will definitely help me out 👍🏼
I really really really would have liked to see you try the Supercharger coil packs. I have mentioned them before, the performance is worth the price and the gas savings helps off set the price in my experience. If anyone else is going to the labor of plugs, please keep this in mind. You will have NO regrets 😊
"Upgraded" coil packs are not going to do anything for this engine. The OEM coils are very high quality and are already tuned to be as efficient as possible. You might see an improvement if your factory coils are worn out, but otherwise you're wasting money.
Nice video as always Chloe! What I've found in my experience is as with anything, too much or too little of a good thing is not good. You want to use a little anti-seize to prevent the plugs getting seized in the block or broken when you go to remove them next time. Nothing is perfect. Most people use waaaaaaaaaaay too much and over torque the living hell out of their plugs. Then they blame the anti-seize or lack there of. lol You did perfect buy using torque specs or what most people do is hand tighten them, then give a half a turn. I'm a torque specs guy. I also just put a vertical line of anti-seize down the plug, being sure not to coat the tip and I've never had an issue. Everybody has their own way of doing things, but I've always found this to work just fine. Your plug works fine by the way. Yes, technically iridium plugs can last up to 100,000 miles, but I'm a maintenance freak and for the cost, I prefer just to change them a little early too. Nothing wrong with that.
You did a good job but a recommendation I have is for the oil filter housing since it is plastic it will eventually break and it won’t be your fault like when you take it off it could just barely crack and then you’ll have an oil leak so what I suggest is next oil change get a metal oil filter housing so that never happens
I did just what you suggested, bought one from Amazon and about a year later when was changing the oil, I dropped it into the oil pan I was using. The little round piece that fits inside it came off and wouldn't go back on so I had to get anothe one. Went to my local O'Reilly's store and after a day or two noticed oil drops on my dirve way leading right up to the truck. Further inspection revealed the oil cannister was leaking-I guess not to spec. Went to the dealer and bought an OEM plastic one and it is doing just fine.
I prefer to use the iridium ngk plugs when I change them all out @ 60K. ( Rated for 100k but I usually only get 60-70k out of them. ) I prefer the mobile-1 oil filters. They're a bit more expensive than OEM but you can buy them in bulk to shave costa a bit. I also dump in gumout / seafoam into the gas tank every 5k miles to keep the injectors clean and clean up the piston heads. I'm at 235k miles. I also use restore oil additive when I change my oil to improve compression. Project Farm did a great video on the effectiveness of this product.
Just changed the spark plugs on my '19 at 65k miles. They looked almost identical to yours. In regards to the anti-sieze: the denso spark plugs say not to use anti-sieze. I also read that the spark plugs are coated in the factory with a layer of anti-sieze. I inspected the threads before installing and they did seem to have a very light lubrucation on them. I did not use anti-sieze and I am not worried about siezing in the future because I will change them at the scheduled interval. These plugs can run for 100k+ miles (160k in a recent tacoma subreddit post).
I just picked up my 01 pro yesterday, so I'm kinda binging your vids. Love love your channel. But........ALWAYS check your plug gaps! also at least pick up the little round gap measurement tool. I've dropped plugs, or hit them on the way in to install, or had them gapped wrong out of the box (checked with a calibrated standard). Like you, wanna pay it forward!.
I have a 2007 Tacoma , and ive never used the anti seize on my spark plugs, multiple changes of them and with 310,000+ miles , still no problems with out using it. And if one does seize up in there , it only means I now only have to change 5 instead of 6. LOL
Hay Chloe I was just looking through your videos and didn't notice any videos covering a maintenance procedure Brakes and how to bleed them. I'd love to see your video if you don't already have one. Thanks.
Nice job on the plugs. Don’t worry about the antisieze naysayers, you chose right. And good job on some of those driver side camera angles. Wish I had your hands when I did mine ha, not these fat mitts squeezing in there.
The camera work was tricky with this one 😂 By the way, I just watched a bunch of your videos. I wish I had found your channel sooner--great stuff and easy to follow! I'll have to make sure to mention it as reference in my next maintenance video
What kind of Power steering fluid did you use?? check on the cap to see what they said??? Mine 2007 tacoma said use Dexron II???!!! Can I use power steering fluid any kind buy from Autozone or from dealership??
Nice video Chloe. 24:08 Small tip, go easy on your lug nut torquing. You’re putting your body weight into it and overshooting the mark. Stop as soon as it clicks.
On my 13 Avalon , 2grfe, 2 of my spark plugs were seized on bank 1, I had to heat the engine up , then they came out no problem. I probably should’ve used some anti seize on them.
I changed my plugs in my 2011 Tacoma. It has 75k on it. I used the other brand listed in my owners manual. NGK. it runs like new. The whole process took about two hours. It was cold out. LOL.
I've been following this channel for a little while now. I purchased a certified used 2020 Tacoma with a 7 year 100,000 warranty. I'd much prefer to do my own maintenance over the dealer doing it however I'm worried about warranty issues. If a mechanical issues comes up and risking the dealer not covering major repairs because of DIY maintenance.
@ChloeKuo I have been enjoying your videos. Looking at the maintenance list I’m wondering if you check the torque of the body an chassis bolts as well as suspension and drive shaft components. I would love a video going over this that shows the proper torque and where all the bolts are that get checked. Thanks for all of the great videos.
My 22 Tacoma has the most inaccurate dipstick I’ve ever seen on any vehicle. Following the manual, it will always just show oil smeared all over the stick. Not sure how they get away with this.
@@ryoung6725 never had this problem with over a dozen other cars that I've owned. I warm up the engine, wait 5 min, then measure. Idk why they even included a dipstick it does nothing. I'm also worried about overfilling but I just triple measure before I pour and hope for the best.
Hi Chloe love your videos. Can’t wait to change my oil n diff fluids. Watching your vids make it seem less intimidating thank you. Also what kind of torque wrench you have?
I don't use anti seize on my denso spark plugs because I've read somewhere that the finish on them is supposed to flake off and be the anti seize. If I was reusing them, maybe I would
Great video. Have you had any video showing 2019 3.5 engine belt tensioner replacement? 90,000 mi. on my 2019 and belt tensioner as well as idler pulleys need replaced.Thanks
Will be disagreement on plugs. OEM are Denso FK20HBR8. Pulled these out and tested( 20k miles on truck) =3.0k- 4.20k ohms. (not good) the truck since new when accelerating will hesitate, sputter, almost die until up to hiway speed. Replacement Denso IKBH20TT(Irigdium n Platinum) Gaped at 0.04 (within specs) Test = 5.20k-6.0k ohms. engine ran smoother, no accel problems, small hp gain. Right side of engine work is a challenge, you seem to manage ok.
Those spark plugs look normal and yes you should always anti seized for spark plugs (you don’t to put a lot, just enough). Did you change your serpentine belt?
Anti-seize is your BEST friend you will get a more truer torque use it everywhere lug bolts break calipers I’m 63 year old been doing Michael work forever stated at the age of 12 I have worked on everything from lawnmower to bulldozers you can check on if I’m right about ant-seize You’re alright kid
Never use impact to tighten as you can see at 24:10 your torque wrench clicks immediately with no tightening because you already torqued it past spec with the impact.
