You have the best explanations I have found on youtube for this. Most other videos are so technical that they confuse me and make me want to give up trying to get the setup right on my own. Thank you for making it simpler.
what about the pedaling strenght during the test.? i noticed that at high load, its much easier to keep the hands off compared to low load or high cadence. i have my seat a way back but still cant remove the hands without a little effort on increasing the cadence...
Yes effort is another variable that will help dictate how to set this part of the bike up. If you race your bike and want to be dialed in during threshold efforts, then the saddle may be a bit more forwards and front end of the bike lower. Whereas if you wish to be more comfortable during an endurance pace the saddle may be a little more aft in comparison.
Hi, can you test it out for a noseless saddle too. As in an ISM type saddle. The ISM saddle seems to put too much weight on my hands, and I can’t do the no hands test too.
Hi Eric, thanks for viewing the channel. Yes, you should feel like you're able to balance without falling over, but the center of gravity should feel slightly in front of you while riding at about 80% of your FTP. I hope that makes sense.
Interesting. Im sure each individual are unique and from a fitting perspective, smaller riders tend to be on the forward position like tt position right? Some bike fitters recently move the rider forward rather than backwards like phil burt or even move the saddle fore than aft yeh? From anatomies point of view you use more bigger muscles rather than quad dominant and also minimise the use of calf muscles for the run. Gravel riding position and mountain bike position are upright and the weight is more towards the front right? Im curious whats your take on it?
Hi Shokran, yes riders with a shorter torso will likely be more comfortable in a more forward position. It's all relative to how their weight is balanced on the bike. As a general rule, the more forwards the saddle is, the more quads recruitment there will be, and the more weight placed on the upper body and hands. In a TT position, since you don't need to stabilize the hands and elbows, you can move the position more forwards to optimize aerodynamics. Check out the DIY video on saddle fore-aft as it goes into more depth on this: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NvRWxPddYU4.html On a mountain bike, the style of riding is a bit different, and more importantly it isn't as static. The general "principles" apply but still need to be tailored for the discipline (XC, downhill etc)
Shouldn't the weight distribution be changed with the reach? ( I.e change stem, frame size) I'm aware that saddle fore and aft does change reach, but I thought it was supposed to be adjusted only to change the position of the saddle relative to the BB.
There are differing theories and systems to bike fitting. It's good to question everything you read and watch, try it for yourself and then determine if it works for you. But you're definitely right in that changing one aspect of the fit will affect the chain elsewhere. So what you said by changing the position of the saddle relative to the BB, you're also effectively changing the weight distribution and pedaling motion. In other words, it's not exclusively changing just weight distribution, reach, nor pedaling motion, but all of them at the same time when you change saddle fore-aft. I hope that makes sense. Anyway, the steps I generally take are, once an optimal balance point is found on the bike with saddle fore-aft, then reach (stem) is adjusted to ensure the shoulders are in good posture to support the upper body, and be in a good position to control the bike (braking, shifting).
@@ecphysiotherapy8012 ohhhh I see. Yep, I'm aware there's no "one and one only perfect fit" or something like that. Really appreciate your response!! Great insight! Cheers 🤙🏻🤙🏻
A general rule of thumb for proper bike sizing is standover height, where you can stand with your feet flat while straddling the top tube. Though there are may be many more aspects to it though. Bike sizing and bike fitting are two different aspects altogether. I deal more with the fitting aspect. Do you mean the saddle is shifted fully aft (back), yet you still feel like you cannot pass the no hands test? It's hard to know without any further details, but it could mean one of a few things: 1) Your saddle is still too far forwards. You may need a set-back seatpost. 2) Your saddle is too high. 3) You have some dysfunction in your hips and/or low back.
My lower back does seem to look very rounded. I'm still experimenting with different saddles to find a better fit for my anatomy. I think the issue is when I roll my pelvis forwards, it places some pressure on my perineum so that may be a reason I'm rolling my pelvis back and rounding my back. I'm currently on a specialized power, which is considererd a "short nosed" saddle. Any suggestions?
