DIY Shed Electrical Rough In & Wiring 

When you have vapor or gasket boxes I would recommend them being the ones you nail on since there cheaper and easier to work with. Cutting the vapor barrier on the outlet boxes always leeway for water to possible get into the outlet boxes. 15:24 when you have slack just make a small coil and staple it to the wall for in the future you have slack for readjusting or moving the wires. I’m honestly impressed on the cable management in the panel and where the switches and outlets are great job.

I enjoyed watching your video! Thanks for making it.

Very neat work, and good quality material.

That is some nice neat and clean work

Beautiful job. Nailer everywhere. I love it man!

The music. Oh my!

It's funny how when you're the one making these noises with tools etc, it's ok... but when someone else is making them it drives you nuts. At least that's how I am Every loud squeak of the drill makes my hair stand on end 😂

Since you said you are not real experienced in electrical and that your “electrician” helped with the feeder, I thought you might like to know some deficiencies. Trust that I am not picking on you, just informing you for your safety. 1. Your feeder looks to be 6/3 WG NM cable. In your other comment, you said it is installed in conduit from a junction box to the shed. Assuming it is pvc underground, anything below grade, including in pvc, is a wet location. NM cable Article 334.12(B)(4) Uses Not Permitted, In wet or damp locations. 2. Since this is a structure with power supplied from another structure by a feeder, then Article 225 Part II. 225.31 required that a disconnecting means be provided that disconnects all ungrounded supply conductors. That means that either your feeder terminates into a MCB panel(not MLO as you have) or a safety switch, or an enclosed circuit breaker. 3. Article 250.32(A). Requires that buildings supplied by a feeder have a grounding electrode conductor and electrode installed. Most use ground rods as the electrode. If you do, unless you can test for 25 ohms or less resistance, two rods are required. 4. I couldn’t tell but make sure you do not install a bonding jumper in the panel. If your electrician suggested you use NM cable in pvc, below grade, you might think about finding another one. Safety, Always be safe, the life you save may be your own. Respectfully, Kevin

Fine job. I'm no electrician but this was a great watch. 👍🏽🤠 12/9/23

Use a 6 to 8 inch extension for your driver to get your drill out of the way when mounting the boxes.

Other than the placement of your doors and windows my new workshop is almost identical in shape. I'm doing exactly what you did here this weekend including a high mount heater! Great to know I am on the right track. Video is great, straightforward and basic, nothing extra which is often information overload. Can I ask how you ran power to the shed? Perhaps there is another video I have not seen? If not, I have to connect to the main panel in the cabin and run underground, most likely through a conduit at at least 12inches down. Any suggestions? Looking forward to more videos.

Great work nice and clean what size sub panel did u instal and wire size? Planinng on doing this on my detached shed

Starting a very similar job soon... Curious why she you ran the 14 wire up to the first light, why did you come back down across and back up to 2nd instead of just going across through ceiling/roof rafters to 2nd light?

Good job on your electrical bro hey I got a question for you where did you get that box at and where did you get your boxes with those insulation covers on it can you send us a link or something I like to get me some for my shed I really appreciate you brother keep up the good work thank you

What size feeder are you running from your main panel to your subpanel?

I connected three sheds together as a tiny house. Electric and interior walls are in, but need to install baseboard heaters in each room now. How do i do this with walls already in???😢

I'm a State Licensed Journeyman Electrician / Sub Contractor with over 55 years in the trade , mostly residential and some commercial and I have never used those plastic vapor boxes ! I think they look ridiculous and and are a big waste of money ! They serve no practical purpose at all !!!

Hey man, that's a great job, you ran those wires neatly. My question is: I have just bought a 10x12 shed from Tuff shed, Can I just install myself the electrical (5 outlets and lighting)? I have the background in electrical. I understand that I have to get a license electrician to run the power from the main house to the shed. Thanks and more power to your channel.

what sub panel did you use ?

Does a shed require GFCI protection?

You don't have the wires stapled within 6 inches from the boxes

Kinda late to the party… There is something… A good news, bad news. Bad news- As poster Kevin mentioned, you seem to be missing the necessary separate equipment grounding conductor. I see the ground from feeders, and the four grounds from your branch circuits, but no redundant ground wire. A separate structure 220v subpanel must have the four wire feeder PLUS a separate, redundant ground wire connected to grounding electrodes (does not have to be separate ground rods- if the ground rods/grid for the main panel is sufficiently close you can use those). The good news- it is an easy fix.

US installations are like from the 1930s

we wanted to see whenever you wired to the panel box. Not when you're drilling and running wire.

Vapor barrier box?????? Who was born yesterday? I am not sure how much those cost but they just robbed you. When installing a barrier on an outer wall, first you put in the insulation. 2nd you run your wirer to where you expect to put boxes, 3rd you install the vapor barrier, leaving slack in the areas where boxes are going. 5th you cut little slits to pull wire thru, and then use packing tape to seal the barrier with the wire out. Lastly install the boxes and wire them. Works better, less expensive, and you have a better seal.

That's not a shed that's a small garage😎