DIY Ski Tuning Made Easy | Expert Insights For Everyone 

I ski sometimes with an 84 year old guy he was on the Middlebury College ski team in the 1950's. He said I tune my edges every morning and you should too. That was two years ago, I would do my edges once a week. I ski five days a week when the season is on, the snow here in northern NH is brutal on the edges of my carving skis. That daily tuning makes a difference. 3 degree side edge .7 base. Were still a couple months out before the season starts.

Great way to start the day, thanks for this update. Snow in Utah already!

Wow great to learn the details. I just started tuning my own ski's this season. I was never realizing how quick the edges go until I started turning a lot and not just bombing it 😂 definitely saves money!! NZ ski slopes are like east coast USA/Canada. Thanks for coming this video.

Funday !! The season still running here at Araucanía, Chile

Exactly what I needed, thank you!

Thanks for a inspiring video. Wish it had been around years ago while I didn't tune my skis regularly because at the shop it was expensive and doing it yourself seamed to be a daunting task. It's not. Just get a few tools and don't make it complicated. Once you feel the difference you will never go back. Nanox ski wax is really awesome. So easy to use and it lasts. Feels good to be gliding past every one else when traversing between slopes even at the end of the week.

Hi tom Thanks for great videos in your video about dragging hans on snow, I tried your drill and it worked excellent but others say it looks somehow that I'm back seated Can tell me where is problem ? should i bend forward more from waist? Our don't bend my knees more for reaching ground? Or should i try lean while body? Where the backseated look come from? Thank you tom

With daily tuning the question comes to mind of the newbie tuner…. How many tunes (seasons) can be done before the metal edge material is reduced to the point you have to get new skis?

A base bevel guide only applies an accurate 1 degree (or whatever the choice of degree) to a base edge if the base is flat. All base bevel guides (and side edge guides) reflect the degree from the surface of the ski base. So if the base at the tip let's say, is severely concave you will not get an accurate cut. So I would say first determine if your skis are flat then, if not, get them ground at a reputable shop. Todays skis are notorious for being concave at the tip and tail. Skis are built in a press with heat and compression, a lot of it. So when the ski comes out of the mold it can cure at different rates. Humidity, ambient air temp, where they are in the stack of finished product can all effect that curing. You may get lucky and have a flat pair out of the box. But with today's fat tips and narrow waists on some skis the curing is different from tip to tail. In the wider sections they have a tendency to suck in at the center and not so much under foot because of the different curing times given the varying amount of material(s).I could go deep here but for your audience Gellie, beginning tuners, they must have a flat ski to get the desired result and improve their skiing by having a consistent ride. I aways recommend getting the ski flattened and bevels set by professionals to begin. At that time the skier should buy the base and side bevels at the degree set, and a progression of stones so they can maintain that tune. From there the learning curve is easier and not daunting.

Australia was looking like a challenge this year.

Awesome, a question tho, I use diamond files (blue and red, dmt) and I feel they are had it, worn out real fast...are they still working or have I 'set' edges and just don't notice the same 'work noise' anymore? Cheers⛷️