Try using wheel bearing grease on drill tip when drilling and tapping it. put grease on the tip and go slow back and fourth so each time you take out the drill and the tap the old / bad threads will stick to the grease. been doing it this way forever and no worries. good video thanks
Thank you for the tip. I might need to drill on the Transmission, since partly stripped the Drain Hole there. It holds a new magnetic Plug I put the on ~11Ft-lbs, and torque required is 22 Ft-lbs. No leeks right now. I even don't know or to leave how it is, or it will develop leaks later, since the torque is 1/2 what is needed. I would appreciate if you could give your opinion on this matter. Thank you again.
@@olenaerhardt7725 Auto part stores make special bolts for this reason. they are made in a way to cut threads for you and at the same time as you tighten the bolt in all the way it resizes the hole. the new bolt you are using to cut it to size will end up being the new permanent bolt. if you want just use a little thread tape on it from now on each oil change it seems to stop it from leaking at all and holds it tightly in place. and stop taking you car to fast oil change places. they damage things to often.
@@NIGHTSTALKERsixsixsix Thank you! I ordered already the Oversized M14.1-1.5 for the case the new bolt won't hold. This is for the Transmission Fluid Drain Plug, so it won't be many changes in the future. actually it was the 1st change in the life of the car w/134 Kmi. I always change oil in all our cars myself and pretty precise person, I even don't know how I could do a mistake like that, just that torque wrench w/click, small Lexivon, and I didn't know it can continue to torque after it overcomes the setting you made on it. It was hard to see the scale on electronic torque I have, so I didn't find anything better than to use not well known to me TW. I completely lost from my thought that it is Transmission, Transmission, No Oil Pan here! Anyway, what is done is done. It was a very good lesson for me. Thank you also for that advice w/the plumber tape. If it will leak, I'll try that. This is our back up car, so not that important maybe. I just practice on it and replaced a lot of parts, and at the end this horrible mistake. Again, I really appreciate your time to write me and attention to my question. God Bless you, Sir!
oil shop stripped the oil pan thread on my dad's car. Instead of him spending several hundreds to replace the oil pan, I used JB weld to permanently seal around the drain bolt and bought an electric oil extract pump for $18. After several oil changes, and I think using the oil extractor is much cleaner and not as messy as draining oil. I also use the oil extractor on my car because of convenient. The oil flows much faster if you start the engine and let it runs for five minutes before extracting oil.
Problem with oil extractor is with high mileage vehicles. There is a possibility of tearing a seal. Very low chance but it has happened. I'm not a mechanic, just heard a mechanic I know who did this. Now that does mean that the seals were needing replaced anyways, but it was still operable before using the extractor.
I changed my transmission a year ago and the mechanic stripped out the plug, now the transmission clinic place wants to charge me $643.00 for a new pan, I will do this instead, thank you for the clear content!👍🏻
Great and Concise video!! Very informative. Discovered that the oil plug is stripped on my new to me 93 Dodge van. I’m sure it was done by one of those quick oil change places. I won’t go near them.
Thanks for this! I stripped out the threads on my fiance's '07 Mazda 5. I COMPLETELY removed the threads on the pan somehow, like they came out on the bolt. I'm not sure if someone messed with it in the past because I wasn't nearly as rough with it as I usually am on any other pan, but we're gonna see about tapping new threads before replacing the pan entirely
hey man, hope you see this message. I recently stripped the thread on my Prius by over fighting. It uses a m12 screw, do you think if I just use a m13 it’ll just create its new threads and be good as new? Or should I go the longer route and do what is shown in the video
Hi, If I used an oversized oil plug as a temp fix, should I grt a bigger diameter kit to install the insert? How do I know what size to get? The car came with an original M12 - 1.25 size plug. Thanks!!!
Don't worry so much about the shavings in the pan. Most of them are tiny enough that the oil pump will handle them w/o any problems. A decent-quality oil filter will prevent any of them from getting to the engine. I wish I had known about those temporary plugs sooner..I could have driven the car while I was waiting for my threadsert kit to arrive.
I think this kit (M12) is to small for my application. Stripped oil plug hole on a Onan generator. Stripped out hole meassures 15.6mm (0.61 inch) depth is approximately 12.8mm (0.50 inch) Any idea on the right size kit for these meassurements?
Is there a different name for the seat cutter. Tried it on my bike without the seat cutter and it leaks oil. My drain plug is at an angle, and I didn’t get the angle perfect.
Great DIY.. did it for my E60 M5. Drain plug has been slowly weeping for 4 years while always torquing it 18ftlbs and wondered why and it finally gave out. I had the shop vaccum and improvised nozzle on it during the whole process. Should have came like this from the factory. Installing a Fumoto valve next oil change. Back in business again making 610hp+ with a custom tune and E85..
I might have to do this soon. I partially stripped my oil pan but with a little silicon in the threads I was able to get it to torque to 29 ft. lbs as the spec calls for. No leaks so far but I'll keep an eye on it. Thanks for the vid.
@@Anthony-eg7pw hey man, hope you see this message. I recently stripped the thread on my Prius by over fighting. It uses a m12 screw, do you think if I just use a m13 it’ll just create its new threads and be good as new? Or should I go the longer route and do what is shown in the video
@@senorbonbonthis method is for reusing the same bolt lol, you don’t even need the inserts if you use a Amazon upsized drain plug, all You do is tap and insert plug instead of tap insert the heli coil and plug ontop
I wished I could post a picture, but do you think this would be appropriate for the top of an engine block directly next to the cylinders? There is what's called a lower plenum that attaches to the block via six 10mm bolts. Two stripped and I was looking at the threads and pulled some out like in your video. I looked at the helicoil product but I'm really worried the heat will make that product brittle and break off in the future. Other people say it'll be just fine but this product seems a little more solid. I'm not sure which to go with. The helicoil is cheaper, much cheaper, but this one appears more solid. I don't know 🤷
Thanks for the info!! Check this out.... I bought a 2007 Honda Pilot with 101k miles from a Honda Dealership. A day later I noticed and oil drip out of the drain bolt. I tried to tighten the bolt but it was already stripped. Brought it back to the dealer and they apparently did what you are recommending. A few days later I noticed the leak again. Then I took matters into my own hands. Drove the truck up on some gorilla ramps removed the drain plug, drained the oil and inspected the hole. Would you believe the idiots at the dealership did your exact procedure but they did not put the insert in straight or far enough. So there was a slight lip protruding out on the bottom side of the hole. My solution was to ...file down the protruding piece so my drain bolt and washer would be flush against the opening. Results....NO MORE LEAK!! Moral of this story: NEVER TRUST A DEALERSHIP FOR WORK YOU YOUR VEHICLE ..... EVEN IF IT'S FREE!!! GREAT INFORMATIVE VIDEO. Also, I bet they did not vacuum out the pan like you, because I noticed metal shavings when I drained the oil!!!! OMG!!!
If you put grease on your tap you will catch your chips - you will have to pull out the tap once or twice to clean it up to clear the chips and redo the grease
Nice video thank you. That kit is really expensive though but nice reference point to start from. I was thinking of getting a fumoto valve for future. My car OEM valve is M14x 1.5, but could I just use a M15/M16 x1.5 thread tap and just use a M15/M16 bolt? It seems like a lot of effort to make the hole the same as it was just to use an original size plug. If I was to do it this cheap way, seems to me like it would work and all I'd need is to thread the hole to the wider size and therefore not even need to use a drill bit to take out the old thread? Makes sense in my head, can you see any issues with this plan? Many thanks
Hey man did you fix it doing this route?? I have a Prius It uses a m12 screw, do you think if I just use a m13 it’ll just create its new threads and be good as new? Or should I go the longer route and do what is shown in the video
Doing an oil change for the first time on my Acura. I found that the OEM 14x1.5mm is loose. I had to reuse the old drain plug. I didn't tighten it past 20 Ft lbs. I bought the car used for cheap. It runs smooth, but who knows how many quick lube places it's been to.
20 ftlbs ! THAT IS THE PROBLEM IN THE US ! Crappy garbage inch, pounds etc... Mechanics screw things up, garbage inch spanner instead of metric, confusing bolt and nuts (some UNF fit partially M5 and M8 ) torque , pressure specs etc...
@@clitisswood7330 I favor the metric system as well. The idea of 1-10 makes more sense than 1-12. The decimal system also makes more sense than the fractional system.
Great job. Help pls. How would you know what ‘new drain plug bolt’ to use after fixing the thread? Does the tool kit come with new drain plug bolt? What is the ‘name of the ‘tool kit’ and where do you get them? Thank you
@@onyxjabby6628 i was avle to fix this problem easy. i went to ebay and get an "oversize bolt" from ebay or Amazon. just make sure you know the size of your bolt. it worked for me for 2 years and has no problem till now.
Hey man, I know this video is 3 years old now but did this trick work out long-term for you? The place that changed my oil stripped the threads hard and I really don't want to replace my entire oil pan
I would pour in Kerosene or Paint Thinner about 1 gallon to wash out the chips... Or use some compressed air going in the top and blowing out the bottom as I was working on the new hole. .... Yep, Great video and I would try this before a new pan.... cheaper way, just buy a drill and a tap of next bigger plug size, buy a bigger standard drain plug.
Straight to the point, and we’ll put together video… I’ll say one thing, your choice. But, just a suggestion, stay far, far, far away from Pennzoil, stuff is not good at all
Will this method work on Transmission (Aluminum) Drain Plug? See I stripped a bit that hole and probably the original bolt using a faulty torque wrench. It didn't click and continued to torque, then rotated once free, so I checked w/electronic one and it was 33 Ft-lbs instead of 22. Been mortified of course, I removed the plug, I hoped it was damaged rubber gasket that gave that single free rotation. I saw one 3/4 tiny circle ring came out of the hole though. Then I torqued it back w/electronic Torque Wrench to 22 Ft-lbs. But after I decided to put a new plug w/magnet I bought and received. So I removed the old plug again, and there was another tiny aluminum ring removed from the hole. The new plug was not going in. I put back the original, but was not able to torque it anymore, like on 11Ft-lbs it would rotate free. I removed it again, checked w/mirror, seemed like all the threads were in the hole in good condition, and put that new plug, it was tight 1st, but then went in. I hand tighten it, then snagged, and not sure what torque to apply now. From all the described above I conclude that the hole is slightly stripped. Maybe I'll be O'K if every time I remove the Plug I put a new one. Total mess I know, very upsetting mistake. If someone has any ideas please share. The film is very good. Thank you.
@@BulliKid Thank you. For right now I put a new plug and torqued it till 18.7 Ft-lbs. It doesn't leak (I mean w/remain fluid, I saw it always came off some, when I was messing up with different gaskets, plugging and unplugging. Hopefully it will hold when I add all ~5 qrt. The reason I wanted to have option to remove it, bcs I replaced CV Axle Joints, and maybe it won't last long, since I couldn't find OEM for that car, maybe it will leak. Of course it is not that often you need to unplug for that reason. I also wanted to replace the fluid 2-3 more times, like every 2 months or so, since that fluid was never changed before, and it would be good to flush everything out. For any chance I ordered also Oversized Plug 14.1-1.5, if it will leak at some point and Plumber Tape (some people advise) won't help. Thank you again.
Maybe I missed the step where you clean the oil from the newly cut threads before installing the insert coated with Red Loctite? After soaking up as much oil as one can I have seen folks use spray carb cleaner or similar solvent. I would do this multiple times to try and insure a better bond.
Yeah, I got a bigger problem. Fixing a 2001 suski up I just got. I always change oil first thing when I get a new (old used) car. Try getting plug out..... Spins but won't come out. Obviously stripped but will not come out. Tried vice grips and pulling while turning. Still will not come out. Trying to figure something as temp. Solution. Can't think of anything but buy new oil pan.
@@Itsjake908 People like yourself give a bad name to Trump Supporters. I suppose that you like engine oil and transmission fluid in your drinking water and rivers ?
@@empiresrikesfat eh I haven’t done it yet I got this sealing tape and it’s seeming to hold up pretty well if it leaks I just count how many times I went around the bolt and do a extra I’ll eventually do this though
Nice job with the repair and I am not dissing by any means. However, for the cost of this kit you can almost buy a new pan. Or a used one which I spent $35 bucks on.
It's great to know how to do this but it does seem like a lot of work to me. Where I live the cheapest new oil pan and gasket costs about the same as a thread repair kit and it would be a lot less work.
The tap kit they sell out here doesn't have a drill with 4 corners to drill by hand with a wrench, they pretty much expect everyone to use a machine, I don't know how they expect any same person to ever use a machine on an aluminium pan that just got stripped, I didn't even use a machine when I stripped it, how much more when I'm fixing it? smh.
Wim don't put a ton in the tap, just enough to get the shavings to stick. Regardless if you use grease or not, you should run a bit of oil through it (without starting) to get most of the shavings off.