Hello, your video was very informative. I live in Florida too. I'm about to start that project myself, I already removed the tiles and the grout. But I have an issue with water keep coming up through the drain. I think I might have a solution, first I can't seem to close off the drain enough there is always water coming. My idea is I'm putting a reducer in the drain from a 2" threaded side to a 2" slip joint so I can glue a 2 foot pipe. This should stop the small leak around the drain ( I can't get all the sand out from the treads so it leaks) it should stop the leak at the drain, and with the top uncapped the water should come up the pipe, that should relive the water pressure trapped below the pool. I can use a type of bilge pump that can suck the water coming from the pipe so it won't overflow!!! I'd like to know what people think about this??? If you can keep the bowl of the pool dry, then you won't have a difference of discoloration. About the hydraulic cement drying fast is in Florida the water is warm, so if the don't so much to do. But gallons of water in the REFRIGERATOR, that willslow down the drying time, I've done it before.
I like the fridge idea, but as far as the water from the drain, Its not that its trapped under the pool, its that I live at sea level, 30ft from the ocean. You might have an easier time if you are not right near the sea. The only way to slow it down was a plug. I was also concerned with the pool popping up due to the pressure under it.
Thank you. Since it has been a couple of months now, I can say I wouldnt do the blue again. It isnt uniform in color, and has some staining issues. Still looks good, but I would go with the white next time.
Thanks for the video, we just bought a house with a pool and some pool guys told me they change the water in their pool every year so I drained mine and when I filled it , it blistered all over the place . It's about to be hot as hell here so in the fall I will be doing the same . Good job btw 👍
@@stevek3270 I have a pool we used pool paint,it blistered last summer.Should I just get rid of all the paint and use colored plaster like you did? What's the best way to remove the paint? Also what plaster did you use? Thanks
@@angelakidd2969 I used sider-crete, color ocean cove. As far as paint removal, I cant help you, I did not have to do that on my pool as it was never painted. I would recomment removing the paint and going with the roll on plaster as it will last a lot longer then paint.
I was curious to know how the product is holding up so far. I'm considering using this product but there is not much info on the internet to do a research. Thanks!
I have to say I am happy with it. I can see the old white plaster on the corner edge of the shelf, but I think that is more my fault then the products. It is only one the one spot, and it looks like I didnt put enough on. Other then that, It looks like it did when I put it on.
hello Steve! I’m in Florida and I’m very handy guy. Did you ever have any fears of the pool popping out of the ground. I saw you in the video taking out the plug in the main drain. How long did the project take thanks Steve.
I was worried, that is why I removed the plug. I left the plug out as much as I could, but every once in a while I would put it in, and pump out what was in the bottom so I could go on to the next step. I do believe that by leaving the plug out as much as i did, caused a little discoloration in the very bottom of the pool. It seams the water level is exactly where a line is. I think from the time I started draining the pool, till I started filling it back up was around two weeks.
It still looks great. I would recommend this. LIke I said previously, I would use white instead of blue so it is more uniform in color. Also, I would have thinned out the first coat with water so it wasnt so thick, but over all it is good.
I used Home depot flex bond for the thinset, it lists Bathroom,Countertop,Exterior wall,Floor,Interior wall,Kitchen Backsplash,Shower,Swimming pool,Tub surround as suitable locations. For grout I used polyblend plus that lists the following as suitable locations, Can be used on floors, walls, countertops, tub surrounds, showers and in submerged conditions (swimming pools, spas, water features and fountains). Also from Home depot.
Hey Steve I agree great video! Have a question about work time of the product. Did you have help doing this and once a batch is mixed how long was it workable? How much water was added to make it thinner? Thanks
Now that it has been a year and a half since I did it, I am not as sure about the amount of water I used, but I believe it was at least a quart, but could have been as much as a gallon. I just dont remember. I did have help. My son was rolling it while I was blading it. As we got closer to the end of the pale, I would take over the rolling, while he would start a new batch. Before we started using water, the batches were way too thick, and would start drying too fast. That made it very difficult to keep up. Once we started adding water, it made all the difference in the world. It was easier to go on, looked better, didnt dry too fast. I could have done it by myself with the water added.
@@stevek3270Awesome thanks. I'm buying a house right now with a pool from 1976. Needs work. Do you think the sider crete would work on something this old? The pool guy told me they would plaster over it for 5-6k.
So far I am happy with it. I think the blue looks great, my wife thinks it might be too bright. I used sider-cretes repair stuff for the bottom hollow spots, but when I ran out, I went to home depot and got the cement-all hydraulic cement that does the same thing. store.sider-crete.com/product-p/0929-50lb.htm
Great job. I'm about to start doing exactly the same. You mention you used 6 sider-crete rolls on kit? is that correct bc my pool looks way smaller than your and they recommend 8 for me for two coat. my pool is 22 length for 10 width. or you did one coat only? one coat probably will be fine. Thanks
I had a problem with it being WAAAAY too thick. The first coat was a PITA and took over six kits. It would not roll on nice because it was so thick. however, I contacted the company and asked if I could water it down to make it thinner, and they said yes. After that it went on way easier and I only used 3 1/2 kits the second day. 8 is probably right on the money but if the roller doesnt get it spread easy, dont be afraid to add a little water.
I found your video to be very helpful I have the exact situation that you have I am redoing the tile around the perimeter and repairing my pool and using all your tips the only thing I had a question about when they say they sell a bag for $129 is that the kit you’re referring to and did you use six of those bags to do your pool my question is how many bags did it take to do one coat
Yes, that was the price of the roll on plaster that comes with the liquid mix. I used 6 1/2 bags on the first coat, and it was so thick that it was hard to push the roller into it. After talking to the company, they said I could thin it out a little with water, that made it much easier and the second coat only took 3 1/2 bags/kits.
@@stevek3270 wow thank you for the info so you used 10 kits and went real heavy on the first coat you probably could’ve got away with 8 my pool is 20 x 50 I’m thinking I can probably do it with 12 bags and after reading your note I’m going to go with the white I really appreciate the input. working on chipping out the border tile right now
@@nikogianna My pool is 14 x 30. I would stick with the recommendation of the company. You dont want to be panicking like I was after the first coat thinking you wont have enough. Make sure you use hydraulic cement under the new tile to create a waterproof seal so your pool wont lose water. You cant count on the tile and grout to fill holes. Good luck.
I wanted a more permanent fix. I read a bunch online and the paint had a relatively short life. I was more concerned with the paint removal after it wore out then what it looked and felt like while in use. So far so good with the cider crete. It still looks fantastic other then the discoloration in the "bowl" I dont know why but the bottom of the pool in the deep end is not the same color as the rest. It didnt happen until about a month after filling with water. It doesnt bother me too much though.
2 other questions. Did you acid wash before or after you removed the delaminated areas of plaster? How long do you wait before removing the red stucco tape on tiles? Thanks a lot
Hi Steve. Thanks for the info. I'm using sider repair to repair delaminated areas but i ran out of the stuff.. wondering if you know of a similar product i can use from homedepot?
About 10 days. One day to drain, then power wash, then acid wash, then tsp wash. That was about two days worth. Then a day to find all the hollow spots, and chip them out, and remove all the tile. Then a day to repair the hollow spots, and repair the bull nose. Another day to replace the tile, then a day to do one coat of sidercrete, a day (if I remember right) to let it set up, then another day to do final coat.
Lets see if I can remember this now. Acid wash, about $20, Box of TSP, $10, 3 bags of hydraulic cement at $50 each, $150. One gallon of concrete primer, I think about $20. A few 5 gallon buckets about $15 total. I purchased 12 kits of sider crete that came to $1716. I got three rollers for about $15, and the squeegee to spread the plaster at $30. That gives an approx total of $1976.
