This is a very very basic explanation of why to have an Air/Fuel ratio gauge and what it is. Boosted Films- Facebook: / boostedfilms Instagram: / boostedfilm Twitter: / boostedfilms Snapchat: boostedfilms
This video is a huge service to all car enthusiasts! Most people do not understand how important it is to monitor your A/F ratio when driving your car hard.
I felt as if I just watched a air fuel gauge video in a 1970s lounge. Good information with background music that made me feel like I was in a columbo video
Damn you found that the fuel pump was blowing out. That's nuts. To even find that would be the last thing if ever I'd have checked. Lol. Great video. !!
Thanks man, finally understand the purpose of this gauge. Many are telling me to get one for my car, especially once I boost it. Didn't know why, not I finally know lol
You all prolly dont give a damn but does any of you know of a tool to get back into an Instagram account..? I was dumb forgot my account password. I appreciate any assistance you can offer me!
@Daxton Johan thanks for your reply. I got to the site through google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff now. Takes a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
High 13s to high 14s are ok for pump gas and honestly where the most power is. Knifes edge of lean makes the most boosted power as long as there’s no leaks or fuel starvation. Good video 👍
Awesome video my friend I've learnt a lot. I've been having issues on my evo x. First it was 12 plus at idle... I change my injectors now it's at 15plus. WOT is around 11plus. The 15pkys got me concerned but I was told that the cold outside temperatures can alter the reading,,,so I'm watching
I am buying one to tune my mildly modified old school carburetor vehicles. Yes they aren't cheap but without it it is very time consuming and I'd like to remove the guesswork. Can also maximize efficiency
Cold weather changes the AFR with denser air but ideally you do want 11-12 under boost but if you do see a lean condition but not under boost it’s ok it’s not catastrophic as it would be under boost with a lean condition.
This should be the first mod anyone does to thier car when modifcations are in mind. I just swapped out my sensor after about 3 years just for piece of mind
old ones are proven to work, so a proven example is better for me. I can also exercise mine by running a dry nitrous setup that will cause near instant 15+ AFR
I am torn between this gauge and the AEM X series. I definitely prefer the look of the innovate, but I keep reading that the AEM is easier to install and does not need to be calibrated. Apparantly these ones need constant calibration? I just want something I can put in my car that will just work more longer term as I am after a Wideband A/F, Oil Pressure and Boost Gauge for my vehicle.
Good video. I couldn’t agree more that a WB AFR is valuable. If anyone needs to install a wideband without a welder, I have an episode over on my channel on how to do it.
You'd think someone who suffered from a fuel delivery issue would be advocating for a fuel pressure gauge as well so you can see the drop off before it causes it to lean out at higher RPM. Zeitronix has an All In One that won't make your dash look like a light show too.
narrow band is ok not that bad .I have used some obd tuners and it works. u can monitor approximately and that's enough for me to find the problem without the help of scanner at first step.
Hi! Nice video! You have added a sensor (lambda): BOSCH LSU 4.2, or a more modern BOSCH LSU 4.9. (if you knew) LSU 4.9 should be better and faster. Thanks. (According to the picture from the video, it will be one of them, but what?)
Thanks for the video I'm restoring a 1997 Land Cruiser would like to add a second water temperature and voltage gauge are you happy with your innovate gauges? I looked at the plx but that's a pretty big commitment for water temperature
lean burn engines up to 40:1 , so what you say is only true for old engines, and old designs. Modern lean burn engine is built like the industrial GMC V-6 use in dump truck from the 1960's
Run whatever afr nets most power, without seeing detonation or high egt’s. Sometimes the problem is the instruments used to conduct the tuning aren’t adequate enough. Ideally if you could monitor combustion pressure you could tune based off that. Finding the perfect afr is something you have to figure out for yourself. Have to develop your own tuning process.
@@stephenmwyatt2 Get a lambda readout AFR gauge, it shows 1 regardless of the fuel's stoichiometric ratio when balanced. Don't drop below .75, above 1 is lean on any fuel.
Can anyone help me to figure out why is my 98 Subaru legacy GT (originally twin turbo, now running single vf34 turbo) on e85 consuming about 20l/100km fuel. Also pretty much doesn't matter in what manner I drive the car. Afr guage shows pretty decent readings. It's not running rich according to the gauge. My tuner doesn't know why it's like this so I'm looking for a help elsewhere.
There is already a 02 sensor in the downpipe, can I somehow use this one? What will happen if I replace this with the wideband 02 sensor and remove the current one? Will anything bad happen?
I installed a catless x pipe and mil eliminators because the 02 sensors don’t read right anymore, because of being catless obviously, how would this affect an AFr gauge? Would it say I’m running rich/lean when it’s not actually running lean/rich??
what is the best one to buy just rebuild my engine 5.7 1990 k5 blazer i got edelbrock carb on there i already have headers so the hole is there for the 02 sensor i converted it from tbi to carb.
At 1:08 you state “if You see 10 or lower your running rich” and if your 17-20 your running lean. If you’re in the mid 13’s wouldn’t that be the sweet spot or is anything higher than 10 considered lean?? All answers are welcome. I really want to understand this
It depends on what you are doing. If your just idling, you want a Stoich AFR (generally 14.7). But wanting Stoich is not always the case. Maximum power (full throttle AFR's) is usually found with a slightly richer than stoich mixture. These are all generalizations and this video is an over simplification. A Mid 13 AFR at WOT(wide open throttle) would most likely eventually lead to an engine failure.
Richard is correct, buying a Walbro install kit is the only way i know to find one. www.rallysportdirect.com/part/fuel-pump-install-kits/wal-400-847-walbro-installation-kit
Doubt think it has to be. When people dyno cars at a shop and add a wideband to watch AFR’s, they sometimes just stick the sensor a few inches into the rear tailpipe.
@@BoostedFilms cool! I’m getting mines ready to be tuned. the current set up I have is the wide and sensor on the exhaust pipe, just right after the HFC. I was looking into it and I found a lot of differences on where it needs to be. Thanks
Hi, I am running a V8 Chevy small block with a carburettor, now do I need 2 AFR units for each bunk of exhaust line or not? Typically I think since there are 2 separate exhaust lines then I should use 2 AFR units separately for each, is this correct? please help.
Heck no. At the very most weld in a bung in both pipes. Get one kit. Check one side and then tune it. Once tuned, swap over the o2 sensor to check that side. Cap the side you aren't using. If you got extra money to burn, run 2 sensors and 2 gauges. That would be best but not really worth it in most cases.
I have an old truck, going to get a wideband to tune the carb. Sometimes it runs great and sometimes it runs poor and I have no idea if I'm running rich or lean every time I tune the carb
if occasional shitty running, probably an intermittent vacuum leak, which is easy to see if you install a temp or perm vacuum gauge, and this is the best gauge for overall engine health, you want a steady vacuum reading
@@stephenmwyatt2 I have almost every gauge you can imagine, all my temps, pressures, vacuum, volt, tach. Everything reads good except it runs poor sometimes, engine has less than 3k miles on it, I bought this gauge I'm going to install it and see where I'm at as far as tuning goes
Türkiye'de sadece 1 doğru afr ayarı vardır ve bu bir defa yapıldı mı tamamdır diyenlere anlatmak istediğim konulardan birisi de bu. Yakıt pompasında basınç kaybı afr ayarını bozar ve bu videoda anlatmış. Aynı şekilde hava filtresi doldukça bozulma olur. Bu rafa bazı yeni nesil araçlarda zaten wideband veya benzeri bir şey orijinalinde mevcut
what do you think a narrow band sensor does, what makes it "narrow band", and why did it ever exist if it sucks? the narrow band is only an average, because it has a slow reaction time, like a butthole thermometer, you need to leave it in your butt for a while basically, a narrow band sensor is either 0 or 1 volt output, as it gets hot, closer to zero, so you are either lean or you are not lean, and it adds fuel if it is lean. Since it works like this, it only corrects itself when it see the 1 volt, so that means you are running rich too often, at least for fuel economy . wide band reacts really fast, at least a good reading every second, so the system can be way more precise, and correct for intake heat, air density, or whatever. If you are using an AFR gauge, it will only have a wide band sensor, the gauge for a narrow band sensor would be a dummy light that comes on when it is above 1 volt although you could wire it all up and it may appear to work correctly , it simply isn't @@BoostedFilms
@@stephenmwyatt2 A lot of crap exist because people will buy it. A narrowband will tell you when you are rich or lean, but with no precision. You can't tune your car with a narrowband 02 gauge they way you can with a wideband. If you find value and use in a narrowband, more power to you.
@@stephenmwyatt2 Narrowbands are actually, much faster than widebands. Every wideband has a narrowband embedded in it as a reference. The output voltage of a narrowband does vary linearly, within a very narrow range ( hence, the name ), centered around lambda 1.0 With an accurate control system, you can maintain the narrowband output at 400-500mv. Which is what a wideband actually does, internally. That said, the linear output of a narrowband is not repeatable as it is HIGHLY affected by EGT and exhaust gas back-pressure, except, right at lambda 1.0.