Does @EmilAbrahamsson need to get stronger? 

Thanks for having me homies! I’ve actually started using this information as motivation in my training 🤓

4:10 “Solid v2 in my gym” I DIED 😂😂😂😂

Power screaming gives an extra 10 kilos? Guess that Adam Ondra video wasn't an April fool's joke after all

I'm watching him on these hangs and realizing I don't try nearly hard enough. Dang dude. Super impressive effort.

That power scream brought all the boys to the wall

4:50 remember when Emil was co-commentator at a competition and he claimed that a power-scream would give you 27% extra force? Turns out, that it's only ~20%.

"solid v2 in my gym"

Love seeing all the Lattice assessments, so interesting seeing all these incredibly strong people have such different strengths and weaknesses.

So cool we see the power scream in the graph! ❤ Emil is a beast 🔥 Emil join us rope climbers instead 🤣

Thanks for the content! I'd be really interested to hear a discussion about how to train the "weaknesses" here. Obviously Emil is powerful! Would love to hear a breakdown/analysis of how these numbers directly relate to climbs

The most interesting thing here to consider is that given Emil's results for Critical Force and what he said he spends a lot of time doing versus what he thinks he's best at, shows us just how wrong we can get it sometimes in our head, but get it right in our bodies. Given these things, he seems much more inclined to be better at producing a semi-high strength for a long period of time because he trains that all the time! But for whatever mental reason he still tells himself that he's best at power, something we're probably all guilty of throughout our training. Another consideration here you mention is timing. There is still a long way to come in measuring skill and technique. SO many pro climbers spend so much time climbing lots of different things consistently that they learn to use the strength they have better and thus don't need more strength like the rest of us plebeians! Definitely what I admire most about these high-level climbers

Before watching, I hope the answer is "NO", because if he does need to get stronger, who doesn't?

Super cool video y’all 👏

Emil also has a good chance for a great scream song that could land in top 10 climbing gym playlist.

Would love to see Cordelia do this test!! 😅

I love to listen to Emil's screams

Could this have anything to do with the fingerboard experiment you did?

Nice vid ! About the rfd though : you compare him with route 8a climbers and bouldering v15 climber (that’s what’s written anyway) but the mean for both is the same (around 280ms) I’m just a bit surprised that an 8a lead climber would have even close of an rfd as a v15 boulderer Great content anyway🔥 it’s always nice to see all those data put to use and shared to everyone 💪🙏

How did you shape up with some of the other professional climbers that came through as well?

Yeeeeeeees!!! Scientific evidence for more Emil power screams!!

We need to see you guys test a speed climber.

v2 in my gym had me dieing

It is nice that tall and heavy (compared to pro climbers) person can get such good results.

Shouldn't measurements involving repetitions (like push ups, pull ups, etc) involve consistent cadence to accurately measure / compare with others?

Like always great video, love to see them suffer.. until it's my turn 😂 Two points of criticism though: The pull-up bar should be stabilized so there's only movement of the climber. And it's hard to see if the push-ups were all the way down, or place an object beneath so the elbows are always at 90 degrees maximum as the end point (for high ape-indexers or those with poor shoulder mobility this is a bit nicer).

Would be really interesting to see Emil's results compared to V14

I always wondered, is there any reason why you do max push ups instead of max weighted dips (or even weighted push ups?)

what a beast :D

I find this a bit weird. Press ups are very specific, if I do them regularly I am good a press ups, bit if I do bench, or flys or dips, it doesn't help much. I'm not sure we are learning much. And the fact that the only leg test is stretching (rather than say pistols or replicating a highleg position) is just weird. Love the idea but I feel like more work required.

on the apley test I can handshake myself

It was not a wise decision to try and watch it at work. "Why are you watching slaughterhouse footage? You are already vegan..."

Is there a league table us normies can check out to see how these Pro climbers rank against one another from these tests? Would be cool to see

It'd be interesting to see if repeating the RFD test when he's a bit fresher changed the result. I'd expect RFD to be the first thing to suffer when tired.

Emil's eyes at 6:00 👀

Surely the flexibility tests are quite limiting this way? If you made him do 30mins of mobility work and then retest I bet you the results would be super different.

A question here : does the RFD measures the time from the bip to the time the force is applied, or the time from the first force applied to maximum force achieved in this run ?

Though I was watching DBZ for a minute during the repeaters

Crazy to me Emil is considered weak for his grade, damn V15/16 is insane.

11:12 Are these scales corrected for height? As in: is "mean" the mean for v15 climbers, or v15 climbers with a similar height to emil? Emil's quite tall so its kind of a given hed be in the lower end, wouldn't it be more insightful to compare against similar heights? As you know from your data, 95% bw hung at 6'0" is a world apart from 95% bw hung at 5'6", it barely seems useful to compare the two. I'm aware that you don't have an endless supply of v15 climber data either way of course :)

id be afraid to pull a tendon from these tests D:

Yes. As do we all. We are all pathetically weak and need to get stronger.

As someone that is closer to 30 than 20, half of these tests would leave me injured. Lol

Stabilise the pull up bar might give more accurate data. That's some energy lost I reckon?

This is so great - those push-ups were… not 😂

How does contact strength compare between heavier and lighter climbers? Could it be that lighter climbers have better RFD since they are generally more dynamic because they tend to be shorter

Iwas wondering why he sounded a bit hoarse in the burden of replicas video!

I would be very curious what Emil's strength metrics are without relating everything to bodyweight. I would guess he might even be significantly stronger than the average V16 climber. Obviously bodyweight is a major factor in climbing, but a taller climber with the same power to weight ratio as a smaller climber would theoretically be able to make bigger moves and hold static positions more easily. For that reason I find this data interesting, but potentially misleading and very skewed towards smaller climbers.

he's massive

Real question: how strict are you testing on form for the push-ups? Because arguably, the push-ups performed were not "clean". Cleaner push-ups would be more difficult and result in less reps, and in the end what you're testing would be different. So I wonder why not test for push-ups which have a 2 sec down, 1 sec up movement, engaged core, head straight, instead of just pumping out as many half push-ups as possible?

Why do I hold my phone so hard

Every single pushup was a half rep

Emil member of r/climbingcirclejerk confirmed

Summary was generated by Summatim, let us know if there are any inaccuracies! 🤖 0:01: Introduction 0:42: Strength Metrics 0:14: Fitness Metrics 0:31: Bouldering Goals 10:27: Finger Strength 2:26: Rate Force Development 1:30: Endurance 13:30: Training 14:54: Muscular endurance 15:18: Conditioning 16:13: Testing

Emil trying to be Adam Ondra over here.... 😂

Sounds like Emil should spend more time on a rope and send 9a!

i would love to see alex megos here !

I feel like, at some point, telling Emil he's not strong enough has the same energy as telling an anorexic that they're not slim enough 😂

Dang, the push up form is so bad im surprised it went online

lol is he sick also?

First??

Bad form on push ups

What's up with his voice

Sorry but those are not proper push-ups ;)