Great review. just built 2 P3 units last month. On the Wheel base plate, under your wheel...Check your bolt spacing for the vertical support arms. it looks like you may have them too far apart at the top, hence giving the whole base a "pre-load" spring tension. i only mention it because i did the exact same thing twice before i noticed. Considered buying optional 3rd support arm, rebuilt wheel base properly, no flex. keep up the great work
Great video as usual by Barry, but I have to agree with Robert's comment. I have an H3 which I got roughly a month ago and it doesn't flex as much as what's shown in this video. It does look like the two bars connected to the wheel mount plate in this video are further apart than mine as well. However, I did order the stabilization bar to try and get rid of the minor flex I do have.
Yep the extra support bar helps with this -plus a lot of owners modify this area to strengthen it in different ways do it is strong enough to use a DD wheel 👍
„Doesn’t stand out...“ and „does what the manufacturer says it would do“ is among the most destructive criticism of a piece of hardware I‘ve heard Barry cast so far 🙈😂
AWESOME review, and I'm really left wanting you to do a direct comparison between the H3 and the H6. You seemed more pleased with the H3 in your H3 review. =D
@@GeeCeeAte I myself backed the YawVR2 Kickstarter. It's a 3DOF with a heave platform addon coming in the future. I also do flight Sims, and the range of motion on this is incredible. You don't need that much for driving only.
on Traction loss you are pivoting around a point in front of you ( your tail is swinging more) . With Yaw your pivot is in the middle of the plattform. You can see it in the video ;)
Hello, I'm new both to Sim motion simulators and to your channel. I just wanted to say that I'm glad I found your channel because of your content is very informative and has helped me learn more about our shared passion. I've waiting to receive my H6 simulator which should be here some time next week, Hopefully. I just received my Pimax 8k plus last week and I'm really wanting to take my experience to the next level and I believe I have fully considered all the information and options that are currently available for simulation and that's why I went with the H6. I'm looking forward to putting the simulator together and getting everything up and running and your video's will definitely help with some of that for sure. So just wanted to you have earned a subscriber and I will keep coming back for more and sharing your video's with as many people as I possibly can. Take care and thank's for all you're doing to help newbies like me to get more enjoyment and less stress out this amazing technology.
Thanks for the review. Been waiting for this one for awhile. Despite the flexing wheel mount (which according to several comments here can be fixed with some tweaking/modifying) and the noise from the rod ends, this system still seems like an excellent value to me for 6DOF. I really can’t see using a full motion rig with fixed monitors though. Just seems like it would throw off the immersion. Getting ready to order my Pimax 8KX VR headset and this system is almost certainly next when the budget allows.
Yeah, same question here. In fact I just watched the review of the H3, and correct me if I got the wrong impression, but he sounded more pleased with H3 than the H6.
What a timely review -- just started looking at putting together a cockpit in my new empty basement. Amazing to find your channel, there's way more stuff in this price range than I would have thought (and I'm pretty handy and can do my own DIY stuff if I have plans or CAD drawings).
The wheel base, the way you mounted it is why it moves . if you look at 51:07 you have the right bar mounted a couple of holes back from the left bar. if you mount them side by side, (move the right one up 2 spots, and left one down 1 spot) and then on the wheel base plate, if you mount the right arm back to the holes right next to the holes you have the left arm in, and the sturdy base bar to the next holes in front of that you get pretty much no movement. you really really have to pull on it hard for it to move
He explains this in the H2 review; and said they need to be staggered. Here's the part of that video (28.59 is the location): ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9RxO4pIlg88.html
I was originally going to buy this system, but glad that I went the route of building my own. For a bit more ($11k), I was able to build my own 6DOF using PT Actuators large 450mm stroke units that ends up with a system that can do more than anything you'd ever need. It allows for super fast snappy movements for racing sims, or you can turn it up for large sweeping movements for flight sims. This system is a good unit for the price though and for entry into motion platforms. I feel though that it could have been designed better, especially with the wheel stand. It wouldn't take any more steel, but just designed differently.
Nice review as always! One thing that I noticed is that DOF Reality has taken the logo and brand DOF from the DOF offshore company. This is an identical logo which is not ok by any standards.
Dude you're right! It's genuinely the exact same copy, they didn't even try to change it a tiny bit! That's absolutely not acceptably at all, someone should let the off shore company know about this!
Very nice review sir, although there is definitely something wrong with your wheel mount flex as mine is rock solid with that support bar. Maybe tighten that adjustment bolt sucker up till it cries a bit 😄 The seat mounting was by far the hardest part of my build, requiring help I bought my H6 back in March this year and would totally recommend it ! I use mine with VR only at which it excels IMO. I don't see how having fixed screens but a moving platform would be good for the feel and immersion? Interesting that your H6 and mine have a few differences too :- 1) The 2 motor control boxes on mine are slightly smaller and have no vents on top, but a grill at the backs of each and also yours are landscape configuration, meaning the plugs go in at the long side of each box, whereas mine are portrait 2) The gas rods are all black on yours but stainless steel shafts on mine 3) The push rods/gas rods connecting upright bars on yours have a T shape top to them, whereas mine don't. I honestly can't see what on earth those T tops with plates are even supposed to be doing? but i don't build them so what do i know I would suggest dropping the Power/Max angle slider down to 70 as, if you notice while testing, there is a point at which, when testing the roll for instance, there's a point at beyond 70ish that the roll also has a tilt or pitch increase which muddy's the feel of the pure roll feel (IMO) About the noise, i barely hear anything with my headphones on outside the game so it's not a issue. I can't say what the neighbours hear, but mine's in the spare bedroom with carpeted wooden floor and i didn't put the 6 feet on my frame so i don't know what effect that would have?
Would you recommend the 6 over 3 you think? I’m trying to pull the trigger. I was dead set on the 6 but now it’s 2x the price so I just wondered if the heave would be worth it for rally sims
Probably I would make custom aluminum frame to fit a steering base more rigidly. If this platform can carry triple screen together, it will be perfect.
Incredible review as always Barry. I've been waiting for this review for awhile and hoping that the H6 would pass muster under the SRG's review process. Your conclusion is spot on. 6DOF systems are expensive, and the H6 makes 6DOF accessible to a wider audience. I was going to say to people on a budget, but even the "low" price of $3,800 is a LOT of money to spend on a hobby in one chunk. My interest in the system is reduced by a couple of things. First, it is noisier than I would like (perhaps an unavoidable result of the "lower" cost). Second, and more importantly, the wheel deck is just far too unstable for my Fanatec DD1 wheelbase. Almost no one who is considering spending $3,800 plus shipping on a motion platform is going to be using an entry level wheelbase. Direct drive wheelbases are much heavier and provide much higher forces than entry level wheels. I know DOFReality is trying to make the wheel deck standard across its entire range, but they really need to redesign that arrangement for a multi-thousand dollar system. The wobbly wheel deck stands out as a glaring weakness to me. Most of the flex in the wheel deck seems to be fore and aft rather than lateral. Does that reduce your awareness of the flex while driving? I had also wondered whether the H6 would do a decent enough job at conveying road textures, and I'm happy that it appears capable on that front. I really wanted the H6 to be better. Perhaps my expectations were too high. I'm less interested now that I've seen your review (sorry DOFReality). Until I see further improvements, I'm going to continue to enjoy my four-shaker chassis simulator, which does a pretty good job of sending road texture, engine vibration, and ABS cues.
its possible.. Look at these guys setups with a DOF Reality P3. (Professionel version with stronger motors) - With direct drive mounted: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-45vEMmBE9Pk.html - With triple monitors mounted: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gz8i9lYWZcY.html
Mitchell Weatherly most of us with these DOF machines have modded the wheel stands to easily handle DDs. These systems continue to evolve and with a few mods , pretty awesome. Support is really good with outstanding communication. It’s a fun community.. as far as noise , they are actually much quieter then competition so far 👍
Old post but I wanted to reply to those watching now. I’ve seen people mounting custom 80/20 rigs onto these. Even the h series have no problem throwing them around. They hard mount triples to them to and it still balances perfect
Great channel ! That's pretty neat for the money. I went with a Next Level Racing V3 and their GTTrack with Fanatec gear. Huge leap from from a static Open Wheeler V2. Totally worth it.
I think he is the James May of Sim Racing: with long hair looks like a rowdy for Steppenwolf, with short hair like a geography teacher, he explains his passion in a very long, calm and funny but good way, he meticulously measures and explains everything. And I love it!
Before I watched your driving impressions, my first thought when seeing the motor and how its connected to the gearbox was: SLOP! Interesting to see you have the said impression. But the cost is great, no question.
I am considering buying the H3, but will DEFINITELY re-engineer the wheel platform. Thanks for including the update for the 'stabilizer bar', but considering it's $50 and its awkward position, I am not liking what appears to be a poorly engineered 'fix'.
I'm not a fan of where they placed the mounting point on the wheel deck. I think they should re-design that completely, however I do hope it can handle the upcoming CSL DD!
You should put the support arms for the wheel plate close together and put the optional support bar all the way to the front of the plate. I did this and I don't have any significant flex with my CSW. I wouldn't put a DD on it though. Regarding the pitch setting, I have the best result putting the pitch quite a bit up so it matches the slope of the track. Then you can tune the Accel and Decel pitch separately giving you more control. At least on my H3. I am 177cm tall and I find the seating position too small for me. I had to drill some extra holes in the wheel plate to move the wheel towards me. The holes in the pedal plate for the V3 pedals are way to close for me. I have a seat slide rail but still everything does not feel right if you use the default holes. You have to do some drilling. After seeing this review it looks like the H3 has the best price/value point to me. I am very happy with my H3 and can't live without it. I'd recommend it to anyone.
Thanks for another superb review! I think the flimsy wheel mounting & excessive flex will be a deal breaker for many including myself!... The addition of a sturdy monitor mounting option would also open it up to those of us not yet sold on current VR systems.
Still not using VR for sim is a big mistake, VR was the biggest improvement to my sim rig when i bought it, and its much cheaper than a 3 monitor setup. I have an Oculus Rift CV1 btw.
@@rehakmate VR definitely has it place, increased awareness of the cars yaw & proper depth perception are a big bonus aswell as situational awareness. I have a 32:9 monitor and I just prefer it's resolving power for distant brake markers and overall track clarity. I will have a look at this new Reverb G2 headset when it arrives and see if it can finally sway me!
@@bretttoddable I haven't heard about that headset, I'll check it out. I have a 21:9 monitor, 32:9 must be amazing, i was thinking of switching to a 32:9 but i also need 144hz and at least 1440p so there is no monitor yet that would meet my requirements.
@@bretttoddable Also track clarity is not a problem in VR, Project Cars 2 and especially Assetto Corsa looks very clear and sharp even with my CV1 even if there are better resolution headsets out there like the Vive Pro and Valve Index. The immersion makes you forget about grahics and resolution.
Good Price, not too big, no need for an extra rig . Needs only a seat. But the wheelbase is a shame and the bar between the legs are a nogo. Maybe they will improve that for a DD. Than I would write it on my whishlist for sure ! Thx for this review
Great thorough review. I'm looking into getting one of the DOF systems. I'm not set on if I want the 3 DOF or 6 DOF. I do a lot of Assetto Corsa drifting, and iRacing is a blast. I love the Rallycross and dirt trucks! I have an Oculus 2 and I generally use my headphones as well, so noise would not be an issue for me. I have the same wheel base as you with different pedals. I'm getting more and more excited to getting my feet wet into motion sim. The immersion with VR is so crazy, I couldn't imagine having motion with it!
Did you ever decide on 3 vs 6?? I’ve been deciding for years but wanna pull the trigger this week. I kinda want the 6 for the heave/jumps in dirt rally
@@GeeCeeAte Sorry for the late reply, I haven't purchased one yet but I will be getting the 6 when I do get it. iRacing has some trophy trucks and dirt/road stuff that is really fun. I've also been playing a lot of Assetto Corsa Competizione, Project Cars 2, Dirt Rally 2.0, and I just bought Automobilista 2. Things haven't gone as smoothly financially and I don't want to put myself in over my head on debt. You had me sold on it.
Feels like I've waited for this foreeeeever lol thank you. Kinda disappointed with how the wheel stabilizing arm thing didn't make it too solid, though... I wonder how one might fix that up without adding too much weight to the setup.
@@Steve_643 And how is that going to make the wheel more stable...? And IMO monitors on rigs like these is just a bad idea... More wear and tear on the gear, and most monitors/monitor mounts aren't built to stand that kind of abuse. If the mounts for the monitors were super solid, they would be far too heavy. If they aren't, the screens would shake around with every movement and be super jarring to the eyes.
@@burger1113 Yeah, don't mount monitors to this rig-go VR. I've seen guys replace the wheelbase mount with 8020 extrusion, and it's solid as well as lightweight. They definitely need to redesign the wheelbase mount.
Potentiometers? Ouch. For what these cost, I’m leery of that. Unless these are very common easily available locally replacements. I’d hate to have to order them from Europe.
Hello. I've just ordered an H6 and I'm planning to experiment with longer servo arm or horn to amp up the effects. I know I'll be messing with the geometry and it might not work correctly after that and I might max out the rod ends. Also adding a lot of torque on the gears. So I'm also going to replace those gas springs for the longer travel.. (actually I was going to add some to take my weight off the servos, because I didn't know they're included already)
I wonder if I could just change the resistance position sensors to cause a wider range of operation. Or change the input voltage of the included sensors for the same effect. What problems have i overlooked? do you think I'll get into besides voiding any warranty. I'm looking for about 30cm of heave. Like Chris the youtuber engineer who engineered his own and put the projects on GitHub. I'll have to limit the other effects roll effects so it doesn't snap off rod ends. Any failure would be catastrophic. Perhaps a fall protection nylon web to the floor joists above so I cant fall should something break.
@@dr9299 from what I know there are the exactly the same. the P6s motors are just rated to be used more than 4 hours at a time. for arcade use. After more research I am likely going to build one myself some day from scratch. Similar to the SFX-100
you might be able to drive each monitor with a computer for each view by adding a network switch to each computer that drives each window view or monitor,
I’m having a hard time seeing who the target market for this is. Seems like anyone willing to plunk down $4k for sim racing stuff is not going to be happy with the chassis portion.
I bought a H6 because it's just within my budget. Spending thousands more for the higher end 6DOF systems is just not feasible. $4k is already a LOT to spend on this hobby.
Hi, always top review from Mr Barry. I have a question; I have a budget for a DOF H3 or H6 system. In your opinion for driving games a H3 is enough or the H6 make really a huge difference? Thank you
Yet another fantastic video review Barry. You are the motion man that’s for sure. It’s time now, to finally go about building the SFX100 system. We are know you try to be impartial, but at some point you need to build your own and review it.
Noise @ 1:25 would be more informative if mixed with sim sounds at usual level. Connecting the wheelbase center support upper end to the forward arm location should reduce flex, as would attaching the lower flange further back.
Hi, thank for your h6 video. I am in sim racing and trying to decide between h3, and h6...like right now :) In your h3 video the conclusions were that i was a good value, in the h6 not so clear... would you recomend going to h6 for racing? or maybe the less amplitude of movements (17 degrees vs 20 on the h3) and the maybe simplier, quieter and maybe faster/cleaner movement of h3 (h6 for a movement move a lot of things so I suppose they add noise/movements unwish or unpolished..) could be even better for sim racing ? thanks
bruh, the wheel paddles are louder than the rattles.... i don't see a problem with that... Some more expensive sim motions has whine noise coming from the actuators...
Nlr is expensive But it is way more reliable as it is an europeen company. I saw a french guy having problem with a dof reality... They were not honnest at all with him so be carefull. What happened to this guy make me stop buying from dof reality that s to sad.
Hi Barry, have you tired or heard if the P6 has fixed or improved that loose feeling you described? The P6 is a bit more powerful compared to H6 but I don't quite understand how much difference if any those higher numbers would make. What's your opinion based on those numbers below? Thank you sir! Motions Range: H6 17 ° - P6 21 ° Speed 86°/s - 105 °/s Torque 25 n/m - 28 n/m Power (peak) H6 2200W - 2400W
I gather that EFFECT SLIDER INCREASE gives more motion. And the opposite is true for EFFECT Max Telemetry: big number gives less motion. But can you elaborate what is the calculation? Why would you need two parameters to do the same thing, in opposing senses. I guess because they aren't really doing the opposite. The slider can be thought of as a GAIN? What about Max Telemetry?
You mentioned that on braking you are getting forward surge, but would that give you the feeling for force on your back as you’d experience under acceleration? Shouldn’t that motion be inverted under braking? Ie - pitch forward and surge back under braking. Is the intention of these rigs to simulate what the car is physically doing, or what you’d feel inside it?
When braking, the motion system pitches you forward because the gravity pulling you from the front resembles the g-force that is supposed to pull you forward when decelerating (inertia is the tendency to keep moving where you're already moving). HOWEVER: Some people swear that this pitch forward when braking makes them feel the back of the seat pushing their backs same as what you feel when you're accelerating (you know: your body jerks backwards and is stuck to the car seat).
Can you add a computer to drive each of the monitors and then bolt the monitor to the motion base to have more realistic motion experiences. yes you can hear the rattle how much rattle or car noise dose the real car noise is.
STill wondering if the range of motion is enough to give a realistic experience of forces. Looks like very little range of motion. I'm sure in person, it feels better than it looks. PS: 4k isn't a drop in the bucket. Q.C. should be improved. I feel like this could easily be a 1500-2000 DIY project to duplicate this setup, maybe even with better quality. Maybe, the P6 is superior in quality though. Hard to find a true side by side of what makes P6 so much more money!
Great video! I see on the website that they have relocation wheels for the H6 but I can't seem to find a picture of them or how they would attach. Do you have any more info on them?
More degrees of freedom the better. The main things the H6 achieves that the H3 doesn’t is heave(up and down), surge(forward and back), and sway(left and right). The H3 only does Pitch(forward and back tilt) Roll(left/right tilt) and yaw(left/right rotation).
In your opinion what is the best full motion sim set up for the money? I've watched nearly all your reviews of full motion and don't ever see any comparisons. Looking at Sim Rig2, Dbox with P1x, DK2, Etc. Your reccomendation would be greatly appreciated.
Can't decide if the conclusion was "worth it" or "not really worth it". Obviously the unit has to be built to a price, but there is also a threshold where "it's good for what it is" just isn't good enough to be anything worth having. Would love to know what side of the line it's on, and by how much.
I think it's worth it for a 6DOF system, however you have to set your expectations, understand what the frame can handle, and if it can accommodate your wants. It seems they have added the struts to the package, while increasing the price. I agree that the steering support should be included as well and not an extra cost considering where they decided to connect the mounting point. I am considering a NLR Motion Platform, probably the best seat mover, so for $2700 I can get that or for $5600 get a 6DOF system, while a D-Box system is $7000. Hard to decide and I keep changing my mind!
It all comes down to materials...Im so on the fence here...to make this rig right, the base chassis and rods should be made from chromoly tube...”high misalign” rodends/heims...which is basically rebuilding everything minus actual VR guts...fixes everything. From a road racers opinion. Its probably $500 in heims alone...
It's a shame that it's now twice the price then when you reviewed it. Next Level traction plus platform seems a more attractive and more professional solution in comparison for an almost identical price.
Hey really enjoy the show, have watched for a long time. I would love to see you do your picks for motion simulators in say three or four price groups. Like 0-5,000,5,000-12,000 and 12 to 25,00. I would be very interested to see your top two for each category. I am now looking to buy something in the under 10,000 range and have looked at a lot of different ones. Noise is a factor as I think all simulators should be graded on that. I would really like to put the Simrig SR1 on top of the Traction plus unit, I think that would be an amazing combination under 10,000 but the SR1 is still not available in the US. The PT Actuator 5DOF looks incredibly well built but I don't want to deal with that build, That looked extensive. Any thoughts on units from anybody would be appreciated.
@@JE-ql9gg What actuators do you recommend. D-Box are 8,000+ for 4. PT Actuators are expensive. The only ones that look good that I have seen cheap are the SR1 actuators but I cant find them anywhere.
