DON’T Buy Aluminum/Billet Oil Filter Caps - BMW Discussion 

I purchase this last yr for my wife 2011 E93. N51. NO ISSUE IT ACTUALLY FIX THE IDLING AND SHAKING FROM THE START time to time. So far so good. Oil changes every 3-4 k. It actually save me money. Thanks from ur video. I respect ur opinions.

Thanks for the video man, glad their are people that look into stuff like this. I wanted to switch mine out thinking the metal ones were more “reliable”. But after watching this I’m sticking to the oem one

Nice video. I almost bought one of these to replace a plastic part but saw on some forum posts about the issues. Same as you've raised here. Thanks

I really enjoyed the in-depth analysis and how you explained it so well. I was so dead set on purchasing the BMS option but now I see no advantage outside of appearances as the OEM replacement is cheaper and known to work. thanks again👍

Thank you for sharing video regarding to aluminum oil caps and more, and really appreciate your thought and your experience

Thank you so much. I agree with your observations and will stick with the original.

Thank you for saving me from wasting more money! Appreciate the share!

Nice video. Thanks. Is the only reason folks move away from the OEM cap the fear of cracks? I am not concerned after nearly a quarter million miles on my E46 with the plastic cap. No issues. Reason I tried the Uro for my F25 X3 and F80 M3, however, is that very soon the cage would detach from the cap and not lift with it. That leaves the center drain in the housing plugged and you get A LOT of oil overflowing when you take the cap off. Most annoying. Do others also have that issue? Is there a fix? Or did BMW improve that part? Thanks.

I'm new to BMW... I trust anyone that uses a (Mitutoyo) ruler to explain and measure a gap difference over any "ricer" incentivized to sell a product. Really good video, much appreciated, thank you for stopping me make a huge mistake!

Hello just coming across this video great video by the way. I am a little curious what color flakes are they seeing between the filter grooves?

The metal insert would no longer go back inside after changing the filter. Use the OE plastic insert into the metal filter cap

I kinda just wish they made an updated OEM with the socket head on top. Curious tho about the VTT and Paradigm Engineering caps. Looks like the VTT has the 3 little nibs. Haven’t found pics of the inside Paradigms to see if it has them or not.

Nice video, I appreciate the info on these. I am replacing mine with the ECS model tomorrow and I'm happy to hear of any potential points of concern. I personally have a 135is with the N55 and do intent to get it pretty hot on the regular. While there may be some issues with the uro model you picked up, I don't think this will be as much of an issue on the Billet ecs model with an oem cage. While I could just replace it with an oem one, I think this will give me some peace of mind. I'll do a check each oil change to see how things are looking and determine if there needs to be a change from there. Thanks

Thanks for pointing out the shortcomings of this aluminum filter housing, I purchased it a year ago for my 2011 E90 335i and have had reservation about using it the entire time. I changed my oil this weekend (Nov. 21, 2021) and decided to use it, after seeing your video, I immediately changed back to the oem plastic unit. Why take chances with the life of your engine, just stay with the tried and true unit. I did see tiny pieces of aluminum from the threads floating in the oil after removing it.

I just installed a Malo Industries billet oil cap. Interesting video, didn’t know people had issues with aluminum ones. I’ll keep an eye on my filter. mine does have 4 prongs in the center so I’m sure it’ll be fine.

A great video, I see that some of the more name brand ones like CTS, ECS, and Blackline which is what I have. Have different designs,I haven't had any problems yet or at least I'm not aware of any yet but I didn't cheap on on the one you have specifically. I'll look out for this issue and see what metal chunks I get as I also have a stainless steel filter to go with my magnetic billet cap thingy.

They’re a new versions of this now. And many owners love them for their B58 and B48 engines.

Excellent advise and thank u for the advise. I currently own 2008 N52 5 series with 254,000 Kms. Original plastic cap and insert. With all heat cycles is it good to change to a brand new plastic cap and cage. I think soo.

Just stick with OEM and replace it every 5th oil change if you want piece of mind, It's only £22 here in the UK!

Excellent Intel thks for sharing 👍👍

Good in detail video!!!

I have been driving on this for a while I have not had any problems if installed correctly

I will say on ANY cast aluminum piece you must clean it and de-burr it. Casting flaws are a normal. If you use a rotary tool and clean it up you will have no issues.

I appreciate the analysis. Good things to be aware of. It’s a shame that these “solutions” to the plastic filter cap all have at least one easy-to-fix oversight. Why go to all that effort to design a metal oil filter cap and not do the research necessary to figure these issues out? They are engineers after all. Now the question is, with these videos out, will they all fix/update these parts? If not, that’s pretty pitiful.

Hi, Do you think the shattered metals come from the metal cage? I don't see any recommend for the metal cage, only metal cap. Metal cap and OG cage is the best fit for me. I think!

Good video. I purchased a 2011 335i with the N55 and with intentions of modifying the car noticed my OEM oil cap would not come off no matter how hard I reefed on it. It cracked so I replaced it with a Burger motorsports billet cap and had no problems with it. 2yrs later I noticed when changing my oil that the bird cage had come loose and the filter was crooked and not seated straight on the cap so I'm hoping no real damage has been done. This was user error by the way so no gripes on BMS I just did not seat that cage on securely enough but be warned is it worth it for cosmetic purposes only?!?!

My 530i 20 years old and 400,000 miles, the plastic filter cap is still fine.

I always try to stick with OEM when I can. Safest way to go.

Hi, do you have any opinions on using a billet cap, with the oem cage. For example the BMS cap has even stock-like pins on the inside head of the cap and the cage sits as "deep" in the cap as it would inside of the oem plastic cap. Would just a billet cap with the oem cage be a feasible solution for not cracking and oil cap, knock on wood.

Thank You for the info, very interesting, and well thought out. LEN. UK.

Completely agree, I was looking at these aluminium alternatives vs stock and foresaw the very same issues, after all, there was a good enough reason why BMW used quality plastic to start with, although people continually bang-on about plastics used in engine bays, BMW in particular. The OEM replacement I bought from Germany is a perfect fit and the plastic element in all OEM versions also allows enough flexibility for the cap to seal properly too. Thanks for a highly informative view 👍

I am with you. Use the OEM cap. Use only the tool made to remove it. Torque with wrench to 25nm always. Replace the o rings always. Use only bmw or Mann oil filters. Don't put cheap parts on your BMW and change your motor oil 😂

Thanks for the video 💪 too bad my aluminum cover ruined my rod bearings 😡

You are supposed to transfer the original plastic cage to the metal cap..

I’ve used BurgerMotorSports Billet aluminum oil filter caps on my N54 and N55 for years with zero issues.

I like using aftermarket parts and figuring out how to use them right.

Hi first time I viewed you and thanks...I was a professional race engine builder for all levels of performance machining and component modifications...we our shop never tried to reinvent the wheel...I followed approved machining specs and if affordability of replacements..by not going to far from millions spent in engineering before me I have great respect for the basic format...we set many records by just doing a better job on mass building by just being more accurate and as I said understanding the factory components

Are people actually breaking their plastic ones and if so are they using a torque wrench to tighten it? I've never had an issue and that includes on my E46 that had no problem up to 246,000 miles when I sold the car.

Well said, would never use anything outer than OEM

What do you think if the ones that use the plastic inner mechanism?

I use the CTS one with almost 600h.p at the wheels. I never had any problems. My plastic cage fit on my CTS one like the factory one! You can’t be an animal and rip the old cage out. There’s millions of people with billet filter housings. Mali industries makes a nice one as well. I know I definitely wouldn’t use that sh** metal cage. I’d rather buy a new plastic one and stick it in there. I don’t like that cap either!

I bought a BMS billet cap for the extra oil cooling features. Is that a legit use?

Popped up on my feed. 2 weeks ago I had my plastic cap explode on removal and I did manage to find the pieces in the underside of the hood and elsewhere. I was terrified any fell into the filter area. Not trying to sound like a know it all but no chance in hell I was putting a metal cage inside the filter area given how any metal bits going inside would destroy my engine. I ordered a new oem cap and have been perfect since. The aluminum caps are tempting but the explanation rates of the aluminum vs plastic will be much higher so I wouldn’t even want the cap with a plastic cage. Great video .. if you ask me the aftermarket is just pumping out products and most owners are clueless and believe everything is an upgrade.I commented Ona. Few other posts what my feelings were .. unless someone makes a stainless or quality billet or forged unit.. I’m not for these metal options with cheap Chinese steel I’m honestly surprised why people think plastic or composite is worse than metal. It’s lighter, and doesn’t have the thermal expansion as metal will. I’m all for composites all day. 2016 M4

I haven't even let the video play through, on 1st 10 seconds, I'll say this. Don't use anything from this company on your BMW! Not one single part they make has ever been reliable. I mean nothing! Don't buy from this company ever! I'm a mechanic. And every euro parts brand of whatever I used for a customer has failed! It blows my mind how this company had been in business sooooo long. F... this company... never buy anything with that name on it!

thanks

Okayyyy sooooo… I still have my oem oil filter cap, I was changing my oil when I accidentally over torqued it. ( I was using a new torque wrench and it wasn’t working properly) I turned on the car and let it heat up and checked the oil level and everything seems to be okay. I tried to loosen it but it was on there right and since I don’t have a spare oil filter cap, I didn’t want to push it and risk breaking it. Should I be okay for now and replace it on my next oil change? Or should I be worried and do it right away

Watch the video. Thanks, see a mistake. U installed the tab incorrectly. U need to hook it up like the oem. Clips on the hole So it will move and oil fliw properly. That is why u broke the clip.

Couldn’t you just use the OEM cage/bypass in the aluminum cap?

How do you over torque it lol just put it on hand tight

13:41 Oh yeah, he’s a machinist. I got the same scale lmao. I’m a toolie myself

Nice fitment points, but I love my aluminum oil cap my guy.

wish I'd seen this before I wasted money on this piece of crap. I couldn't get the inner part to ever mount to the clips.

This video... So funny... Funny man... 😂

Old video, but really good analysis of a bad design. Methinks you are a mechanical engineer in real life.

The URO oil filter cage assembly has been updated with a new plate for the relief valve. It now fits in the cage as snugly as the BMW plastic one does, and it has a larger center hole, making it less likely that the relief valve will jam open under the plate. Note that the relief valve opens ONLY if the filter becomes so contaminated that it can no longer pass oil. In that case, the valve will allow oil to bypass the filter, and if the relief valve did get stuck open, it would not be a bad thing. Just check that the valve is reseated and centered when changing the filter. The Genuine BMW plastic parts are NOT better. While my plastic cap had not yet cracked, the plastic relief valve inside the cage had shattered and the spring shot right through, completely bypassing a brand new filter and sending fragments of plastic and contaminated oil through the oil passages, where they have caused catastrophic blockages, jammed VANOS solenoids and other valves, and run unfiltered oil through my cams, bearings and turbos. Total disaster! Over the life of the car, every single plastic part in the cooling system, and some in the oil system, have cracked, snapped, crumbled, or otherwise failed, and cost me a fortune, not just in replacement parts, but also in collateral damage to the engine. I applaud the aftermarket segment for attempting to fix the plastic trash all over the BMW engines. I've made one modification to the URO cap... Instead of grinding the spring fingers under the cap, I used a wooden dowl and a hammer to knock over the spring fingers and snap them off. The spring steel is brittle enough to do this easily. This prevents the fingers from pushing the cage too far into the housing, which slightly crushes the filter. Now, installing a new filter is easier than ever: 1) Oil the filter and slide it over the cage all the way to the stop. 2) Press the filter and cage (with tiny o-ring) into the filter housing, all the way to the stop. 3) Fill the housing with oil, screw down the cap and torque. Done. The filter is never twisted or crushed. The cap captures and guides the top of the filter perfectly. The filter works as intended without any additional stresses. Try a dry run without oil and o-rings to see for yourself how simple and effective this is.

A lot of good information, but this video is way too long. Could’ve just made it 5 minutes long. “These are bad, these people had these experiences, this is why you shouldn’t buy them”

Jesus Christ people have too much time to worry about things that really is simple to decide...Just ask yourself out of the many millions of cars not just BMW, how many oil cap failure have u seen?... and maybe out of topic still related to failure is the rod bearing issues that people are triggered when the word "rod bearing" is mentioned. smh

Stop confusing us

Testicular diy is bullshit

Another Whiny little rant on RU-vid because he’s unhappy :( my ecs cap is slap for years and I don’t need a filter cup that’s not in stock in store anywhere. Dude get a life.