Showing common failure in bmw transmissions, the plastic shift fork piviot pin. This can leave you stranded. Be sure to install an AGA, all german motorsports, machined brass permanent solution.
I love when people call parts garbage with 150k and one it left the factory with. It's a composite material(like the water pumps everyone hate on),not plastic. But bmw did use the brass on the 5 series
Thats why it is plastic because it will do less damage. The plastic will break but the hole will not. Like you said it is easy to crack, they have foreseen that issue.
I agree with Roman, the plastic nut is the first breaking point in chase of problem, so the hole casing would not crack . It is cheaper to change a plastic nut than the hole casing. It is not about the profit margin.
@Juden Arier the point is that the plastic piece will take the force from the pivot fork as a sacraficial piece. If you are using this harder brass pin, the pin won't break, but all that force from the fork will now be dissipated as it transfers to the bore that it is sitting in. Similar to if you changed your rear subframe bushings to aluminum, all that force is now transfered directly to the chassis and can cause it to rip.
Hmmm. I wonder what kind of iQ score you must have to believe that brass rubbing on metal will last longer than hard plastic rubbing on metal lol For the name of all that is holy DO NOT USE SOFT BRASS PINS
Damn bro I literally just now finished putting everything back on my m3 for a clutch job and I'm just seeing this lol, I did replace it with a new plastic one
I have a problem with my gearbox on my bmw 120d e87 when the engine is cold it's really hard stiff I have to push hard to put in gear 1st or 2st but I tray 3456 they are nice and smooth I have fitted new cluch and flayweel and last week I did gearbox oil change and its still the same even if the car is wormed its still stiff please help me what I should do
I always have a replacement dual mass flywheel on hand when doing clutch jobs on customer cars. or you can convert to single mass with a kit. sounds like your flywheel or clutch has issues. but change them both.
It’s not supposed to last forever lol my original pivot pin on my manual m60 was still good when I replaced it with a brass pin. Now I’m doing an m62 swap using the same tranny and the brass pin was flattened. Use a steel pivot pin. And just an fyi ,on the other side of that on the tranny theres a little hole you can punch out an old one. If not, make one !!
@dkrawk8309 the person before me changed the clutch and didn't change this part. Why would I change the clutch if it's in good shape? The bump on my head helps me think
Hey I have a 1996 328i and when engaging the clutch and shifting from 1st to second, it doesn't want to go into second. I have to force it into gear. What do you think might be the issue? bad synchro? Thanks for any input!
JT when was the last time you changed the gear oil or serviced it? Do you have any slop in the shifter? Does it go into all the other gears smoothly and makes no noise?
subtledriver I just bought it 3 days ago. I'm going to change the fluids out this afternoon and see if that helps. There is no slop in the shifter and no noise. It goes into all the gears fine except second. There is no noise going from 1st to 2nd just super hard to get into gear. I have to pull back pretty hard until it pops in.
oh man.... ok. its most likely a damaged sycro. change the fluid, i prefer redline for this case. And if it doesn't improve, you will need to double clutch, or rev-match to help it go in easier or smoother. i lived with a transmission with bad 2nd syncro for years, and just learned to drive it differently to reduce occurance till i found a replacement in better condition. if some of the other gears had issues, or the clutch pedal was low, i would say check out the hydraulics or the fork pivot. but sounds like you have a sycro out. included in the maintanance flushing the clutch fluid with fresh dot 4 fluid is a good idea too. but if its origonal, check for leaks or sweating and plan to replace the master and slave as a set, they can be rebuilt cheaply if you have metal cylinders.
My clutch felt like it was slipping I was driving and it wasn't getting the usual amount of power. It's like it would be delayed, rpms would drop then when I got on the gas it would be okay, now when I put it in gear the car does not move at all I tried 1st 2nd and reverse. I don't know if it's the clutch or components in the clutch. Any suggestions would help ???
ik its a late to reply now, but for the sake of other people out there, yes you need to replace your clutch (replace the pressure plate too for future reference, only cost me 300$ for the whole kit excepting the flywheel), and it could be the flywheel too (depends how you drive, and how many miles is it, you can also resurface the flywheel if its not that bad).
@@Linoge279 no shudder. Smooth. But having a good clean surface and job done right helps. Worn driveshaft couplers engine/trans mounts and not having a smooth quick clutch foot effects things too.
Hello!!, greatings from Chile, i like to know what kind of BMW models have this plastic pivot, its a very crucial issue to take...thanks and congratulations for your channel.
I have a 2006 bmw 325I can replace both master and slave but it still will not engage. I have bleed the system and pedal won't get hard. Will this pivot could be the problem? will the car still be able to engage if the pivot is worn out? thank you
it wont engage if pivot breaks (very common), or you need to point bleeder up and try bleeding again. if you have a side or low mounted bleeder, it will never get all the air out if not facing up. you might not have enough slack on the master cyl push rod. it needs to be fully extended for fluid to work its way in from the reservoir.
I've been looking for this part for a while, also the spring that holds it. But the shipping and import charges from Ebay makes it 5 times the price... Is there a webbsite to Aga or a link to this part for a Getrag 260?
quick question i have a 00 323ci an i just changed slave an master an my clutch still doesnt fully disengage ....i try to put it in first an am already rolling with pedal down ??
TRILLEST SCOTT you either didn't get all the air out when bleeding, you have a faulty master cylinder with internal bypassing, the shift fork pivot pin is broken or worn down, bent fork, or damaged/ stuck pressure plate.
subtledriver well when i was changeing the slave when i took it out the fork just drop down isnt it supossed to be on that pice like in the video thats what hold its up right ?
same issue .bled many ways . changed slave,clutch cylinder plate and clutch cover WHICH WAS SNUG AND DID NOT SIT INTO FLY WHEEL FREELY INTO SPESIFIC PIN HOLE. ALSO I PRESSED ON CLUTCH PLAT E TEETH WITH SCEW DRIVER ..LIKE A DUMB ASS ..
I suspect mine is broken. I went from 2nd to 3rd under acceleration but 3rd wouldn’t go in. I have about 2-3” of clutch travel then it becomes really, really firm and the clutch never disengages. The car will start and idle in neutral. With the clutch depressed I can’t shift into any gear. I can feel the engine slightly bog once I apply pressure to select a gear. Any suggestions?
im having the SAME EXACT experience. i thought it may be the clutch master cylinder but they're no signs of fluid leakage. The "engine bog" symptom i totally agree with, any suggestion please??
E36, e46, and 93sho. The SHO did the exact same thing, the clutch disc springs popped out of the disc and prevented the pressure plate fingers from depressing. Locked up the whole assembly, it would go in gear engine off. Good luck
so you're saying this could be the solution to a slipping clutch?? my clutch catches just fine but under low rpm hard acceleration the rev's just slip and it over revs... idk what the problem is..
