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Problem: The Body Control Module is either malfunctioning or is not receiving correct information due to: (i) weak battery or connections, (ii) Loose or corroded grounds or other connections, (iii) bad BCM, (iv) bad relay, or, (iv) faulty or misaligned door latches or alignment. Known pattern failure. Process: Inspect all latches and door alignment, then use Power Probe and work towards the BCM. Thanks for these videos Duane they Rock!!
The description you used was really helpful in finding this video. Often the locks just seem to go nuts, and the driver has no idea what is causing the problem. Your description was the best way to describe what's going on, and your diagnostic method was great in finding solutions.
😄😄😄😄😄 1st- if i knew the problem, I wouldn't be watching U. 2nd- My problem is with a 2092 Kia Sportage and I never knew cars automatically lock at 15 mph. My locks keep locking and unlocking even when the vehicle is turned off!!!
I have a 2002 ford e-150 starting to have the same problem driving down the road. I can lock all doors with key chain lock but when trying to lock the door manually the door unlocks but will not lock on driver and passenger door. I replaced lock switch on driver side door and did not fix problem. Will check on broken wires on driver side door when i get a chance. Any suggestions would be helpful.
this happened to my 97 T&C. very erratic door locks. tried to removed the battery terminal to reset the computer.problem never come back. its been 4 yrs. now. odometer reading 180k+
This didn't work for my '98. I'm going to try the fix he has in part - 3. I'm just going to keep the wire undone.. I can live without the power door locks and just go manual.
Very interesting! If the locks respond to a certain speed, perhaps the BCm is getting the wrong signal from the speed sensor or no signal at all. Is the speedometer working?
Hi after replacing the computer on my honda odessy odessy and the multiflex mudual my door locks dont open all the way I checked the the model number it matches the old one please help
I like the response by epiphaknee. First step is a wiring diagram, and a quick review of the vehicle looking for other clues. That circuit to lock the doors should be suppressed after the first lock, so the fact it continues says that a feedback loop has lost it's way. Likely culprit is bad ground at body control module or a bad connection or worn wire.
Mine only goes crazy after it warms up and then when I hit any little bump in the road it cuts out and the locks kick in. But the engine cuts out when the locks activate
I had the same problem what I did was that there is a sensor by the latch on the drivers side. I disconnected the wires from it and that solved my problem. Of course now the dome lights do activate when the door is opened nor does the automatic door lock feature work.
I think there is a loose connection in the input circuit to the BCM for the locks that indicates the sliding door is closed. The door is not closing all the way and when you accelerate or turn corners it is losing its contact. A likely problem spot would be where the sliding doors make electrical contact with the B-Pilar. Could be corroded.
Thank you for the great and detailed film. Yesterday my 2001 Saturn SL2 started the following: I locked or unlocked the passenger door w/automatic switch. After that the doors started chattering, on the passenger rear it was opening no matter what you do. You lock that PR door manually and see how it clicks, clicks and opens on its own. I tried to move the car a bit, but didn't drive, all that chattering was continued, like door lock mechanism was working w/no stop. It took me ~15 min to lock it eventually by pressing and holding the locks on the doors, activating automatic locks, I even can't say what really stopped that never ending process. I ordered new door switches, but think it might not solve the problem. I think it is smth w/Power Control Module in that car, because sometimes if you change the battery in that car it starts to malfunction in Idle, like on stops can be almost stole. It can happen not necessarily on the first ride, usually second or 3rd. Seems like the computer is learning the new battery hard way. Then you can stop that car, it will sit for a while, like 30 min, and after that it drives very well. Pretty interesting problem indeed. It is my test car for learning on amateur repairs, excited to know what it is.
I thought my car had this issue come to find out it was my key fob because my battery was corroded causing the electrical to go haywire inside. Got rid of the key fob never happened again
Problem: Short to power ( feedback ) somewhere in the door lock wiring coming out of the BCM. Diagnosis: Look at wiring diagram and check for available voltages where it should be, then voltage drop all components in circuit, take all panels off and visually inspect that all locks have no corrosion and bad wires or grounds.
to me it sounds like a mechanical issue triggering the door lock/unlock button, perhaps if the lock/unlock button is a one button rocker switch and the spring that holds it in center position broke, then the button would be free to rock whereever it wants to, and acceleration and deceleration/turning would cause it to move, thus causing the switch to hit either the lock or unlock position by itself.
What if your car is doing this and the interior lights are coming on as well? Plus the auto headlight feature is not working. 2002 Ford Taurus SEL. The alarm will also go off for no reason after its parked and locked with the key fob. What should be checked and in what order?
I would disable the automatic lock feature and repeat the road test. During the road test I would observe scan tool data for BCM and RKE status' hopefully showing an input change
This happens to us but when the van engine is OFF. We got new battery didn't work, new fuse didn't work, We have to unplug the fuse every night so it don't drain our battery. So your solution is to read everyone else's possible solution. Thanks a lot NOT
I would go get the wiring diagram's first period (door lock's and engine performance for vss). Look it over to see exactly how the system work's. Also i would put my modis on the vehicle and go to bidirectional testing and see if i could controll them like that. My guess would be a bad door pin switch or loose connector to it tho.
My dodge is doing this locking wether driving or parked with engine off removed keyless battery as well as both door control buttons and they are still going nuts year 2004
What do you think could be the issue with the following: After arming/locking the car with the Key FOB (2003-2007 Honda Accord) & then coming back to unlock it with the Key FOB (Recently replaced the key fob battery) & it does NOT unlock the driver door or any doors (You hear a sound & see the lights flash as usual but doesn't unlock. Note: All other functions on the key FOB work; Arming/Horn honks/Blinker lights flash, trunk can release, panic button works, etc.) Then after attempting to physically inseet the Key on the lock to turn it to unlock it, it does NOT unlock that way either (No matter how much you turn the key there is a lot of resistance & it won't unlock). When this first happened I then replaced the Key FOB battery & it worked/unlocked the doors using the key FOB/unlock & physically with the key, also the interior door lock switch unlocks/locks the doors without any issue. After 4 days the same issue where I can't unlock it with the Key FOB (With new FOB battery) & using the physical key occurred again. DO YOU THINK IT'S JUST THE KEY FOB UNLOCK BUTTON HAVING AN ISSUE OR THAT THE DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR IS GOING BAD? (After I get it unlocked 'see below' both of my Key FOB's & the unlock button in the vehicle all work fine until the issue occurs again, if it's the actuator going bad, how can you tell?) FORTUNATELY I found a way to roll down the windows via Key FOB (Press the unlock button on key FOB then press the unlock button again & keep holding that button until the windows roll down, if that doesn't work try inserting your key into the door lock turn it to the right once then let it go back to the middle while the key is still inserted in the door lock then turn it to the right again & HOLD it until the windows start to roll down (At this point you can press the unlock button from within your vehicle; try pressing it twice to unlock all doors & it should unlock. Note: Trying first to open the door via the interior door handle may not open the door, you can try the other interior door handles but the best way is to press the unlock button from within the vehicle; If the window only rolls down slightly a stick/long snow brush, etc can be used through the window opening to press the unlock button, press it twice to unlock all doors then open via extetior door handle). FYI for anyone dealing with this type of issue (Good info to know in general). Also if you can access your trunk; remember the middle compartment releases if you had it unlocked from within the vehicle 'Back seat cup holders- black middle compartment' Always keep this unlocked for this reason in case using the key FOB, etc doesn't roll down your windows).
I would suspect the door lock actuators, so that's what I would check. You should be able to remove the interior door trim panel to gain access to them. Then simply unplug them and jumper power & ground to them directly and see if they work.
This was happening to me a few days ago, I took the battery out of the car remote an it stopped, the next day it's did it again. So I opened the door remote again and noticed the remote was broken.
Door locks are controlled by the BCM. Check the inputs to the module to see which one is faulty. Door lock switches, door ajar switches / possible door alignment triggering the ajar switch, etc. If they check out then look at BCM door lock output. If it's not commanding the locks then it's a short in the circuit (or a bad relay). If it's the BCM who is actually commanding the locks then it may be a bad BCM or faulty ground. They key is if anything else is flaky like dome lights, etc.
hola , compre una minivans toun country 2001 y tiene un problema que la puerta trasera aveces no abre; es electrica ¿que podria ser? pudes hacer un video ya que esa falla es muy comun
Start with the diagram and trace back eliminating potential causes, speed sensor, steer column switch for park-drive, or wiring short near door hinge. I really doubt it is a faulty computer. My guess (and it is just a guess without evidence) is a wiring short near door hinge.
Doors locks typically unlock when the shift lever is placed into the Park position. I suspect the switch/contacts that unlocks when in Park is the problem.
I think it's the vehicle speed sensor.The sensor tells the door locks when to engage and they are controlled by a relay.It could be a bad relay but I think that it's a bad vehicle speed sensor.
First I would look up on All data how the locks worked. Is it mechanical or run by the ECM or similar modual. Once I knew HOW the locks were suppose to work then I could think through deviations to proper operation.
I would ask customer when problem started & was anything done/repaired on vehicle before this problem happened.I would check for BCM codes.Hook up scan tool & see if vehicle speed is consistant with speedometer.Check LF door ajar switch.Check door lock grounds.Find BCM & tap on it with screwdriver while sitting & while driving.Wiggle wires on BCM & door lock ajar switches.My guess is door ajar issue like DAQUAN88 said or bad VSS that cluster is not picking up
I don't think the locks are supposed to unlock when the vehicle speed drops below 15 mph. I think they are supposed to unlock when shifted back into park. Maybe a faulty PRNDL switch or related circuitry. Any codes?
Review the wiring diagram first and work the circuit backwards to determine where the power is coming from. Obviously there is some kind of speed sensor and possibly a tie in with a module or computer. Finding out if these device have good supply voltage is one thing to look for too before condemning any of these devices, afterall it could just be a bad connection to one or more of these.
My 2007 Saturn Aura XR is doing the same thing. I paid $250 to have the sun roof drain vents fixed which did stop my computer from doing even WEIRDER things. It rained for 3 days straight this week...and now my Saturn door locks are going up and down on their own. I hate this 2007 Aura XR . It has been a pain in the ass since I got it.
1. Vehicle speed sensor 2.- Raise the vehicle's front wheels, connect a scope to the VSS signal output and observe for any glitches or interruptions in the wave pattern as the wheels spin during the test. Just a guess, thanks again Duane.
Abunai One no, this is definitely not normal for a Dodge. You can hear very clearly in the background that the engine is running properly, nice and smooth, transmission shifting okay, so no, this is not a normal Dodge
Could be the relay ou the door lock it self... by the way i like your videos... to bad your not in Portugal because i would lika having you as a teachear
Wow, first I would have to find out how the door locks are controlled. No1 Is there a door lock computer fitted to this vehicle? No 2 If so from what device does this computer have the vehicle speed inputted from? No 3 Is this device giving correct output as per vehicle specs? No 4 If YES replace door lock computer, if NO replace speed sensor device.
If I didn't know any better, seems like you being punked. Someone is following you around with the remote control lmao. Nahh just kidding. I also will go with epiphaknee's response.
Stop and think about how stupid this is! It's a problem with the freakin' electronic door locks. Damn computer. It's so complicated you need an oscilloscope to fix the damn door locks! I'm disgusted with the s-i-t-u-a-t-i-o-n.