Your video is a great support to our problem, explanation, determination, and the knowledge. Those are the great things that you have. Thank you so much for your help. This video has been very educated to me thank you
Very well done I can work on alot of things but electric issues have always been a issue for me unfortunately those computers are way out of my price range
Oh man. I didn't realize how complicated the circuit is, and how the problem can be anything from door switches, to actuators, to the Body Control Module, (etc??). So now, not being an auto mechanic but just a DIY'er, I'm in the middle of replacing driver lock actuator in my old F150. Which is an almost impossibly difficult job because of Ford designed these things with such poor access. Anyway, now I see that even after all this work, I may not be fixing the actual problem!
@ 4:26 "looks like we fixed this one." LOL!! You are an awesome tech Duane, I think you fix all of them. I joke with my customers, I tell them "I work on cars, sometimes I fix one!!" Thanks for another great video!!
Very informative I too have a Dodge Grand Caravan 1996 first it was the instrument panel next the doors wont lock automatically when you get up to 15 mph then the security system goes off at any time day or night for no reason you start up and the wipers start make a couple wipes and stop now when it rains they only work intermittently and the doors will only unlock inside from the front passenger side
@spelunkerd I knew the BCM was a possibility so, as the video shows, I read the description of how the circuit worked, reviewed the diagram and saw that the inputs were the ground signals from the switches, saw the red trace as the bad signal, eliminated it and saw the problem go away. Then focused on the liftgate to find the evidence.
That labscope sure pays for itself considering how fast you could track the problem. This particular situation though reminds me of the locks on my mom's '94 Saturn back when they started freaking out. But it turned out that one of the rocker switches was broken and was holding all the locks on or off if it leaned even slightly to one side of center. Dangerous, too, since I realized you couldn't open the doors at all from that. I totally removed that switch till the replacement showed up.
Your vid is still working, at least it gives me an indication where else to look to chase a no lock problem on a Outlook. Can you recommend a reasonably priced under $600, Scan tool for the guy who takes care of all the family vehicles? Thanks
My '97 Chrysler Town & Country van was doing this BS. Not while driving, just when trying to unlock or lock the doors. Inserting key into lock then turning it either direction made all locks go insane! Random up/down, never consistent, several tries to get locks to stay up to open or remain down to lock, sometimes the alarm would activate, etc. PITA for real. I sprayed CAIG F5 'DeoxIT Fader Spray' into all door locks [including rear hatch] from the outside with the slim red nozzle attachment. Inserted into the mechanism, then sprayed for several seconds. Problem hasn't returned in over a week. Fingers crossed. Just wanted to type this in hopes it helps somebody else encountering the same annoying issue. F5 is great for all sorts of intermittent electrical connectivity problems.
That was cool, I like it. ...man I really want one of those master tech patches, I need to get off my behind and go take the rest of those a series tests and get my gold patch! !!!
@mobilemechman If you don't have a scope, you could use a DVOM but you would need to really understand and know how to read the DVOM. I tried to point that out in the video about the min/max readings. But a scope is soooooooo much easier.
I just got another used car, and the power locks tonight started going crazy, along with an alarm to warn me that a door was ajar. So, there I am going down the road with all the locks clicking on and off and the alarm sounding. I also had a warning signal on my dash flashing red and a little picture of a car with it's doors open. When I got home, I went around and shut all the doors securely, and the truck, but the picture of the little car with it's doors open would not go off. I hate these locks. My last car did not have them, and I find them to be a distraction and a nuisance. I will call my mechanic in the morning to see if they can disable this function. I do not need it.
It may not be an option for you, but I had my mechanic disconnect all the automatic door locks. Now I have to lock and unlock them manually, but the time to do the job was minimal, and the problem is now gone. Yes, it is an inconvenience for me to have to unlock/lock them each time I need to, but I don't carry people in my car, so it's not a big deal. The alarm that the door was open turned out to be my driver's side door latch being faulty. It didn't go off all the time. I had them disconnect the alarm for the doors from the module (I think he said). Little picture of car/doors open is gone, and so is the alarm. I think the car must have been in a wreck in the past, and knocked connections loose or something. There are other indications it might have been in an accident, but I didn't see it until after I bought it. What I can't understand is how all of these symptoms (and there were more) were silent when I did an extended test drive with it. It has been a money pit. I wish you the best with your truck!
Is it the same deal on PT Cruisers? Bloody thing unlocks itself when I'm no where near it, when I unlock the driver's door, the tailgate unlocks, and it does it randomly while driving. Taken the batteries out of the pendant, no difference. Locked it a month ago, didn't go near it. Drove the Jeep, because the haunted Chrysler had unlocked itself again =- all the doors were unlocked, including the rear hatch/tailgate. What on earth? Might be a pun, but unintentional.
My door key position switch fell off of the cylinder and when I turned my car off and removed the ignition key both front windows rolled all the way down.. Took me forever to figure that one out.02 Maxima
Good work,I got problems locking and unlocking my doors with key fob,I hear the PCM clicking when I push the buttons on the key fob,doors will lock manually ,boot relese works when I press it on the key fob,some detective work to do tomorrow.
Solid video! Nice diagnostic and probably a lot of experience with this problem. I might have lubed up the locking slide mechanism on the liftgate handle before reinstalling it because that is a major area of corrosion especially on a ' 96 Caravan. That vehicle looked like it was in pretty good shape. How much do you think that repair cost the owner? Hopefully it wasn't cost prohibitive on a vehicle that's maybe worth $1,500.
Thank you my better teacher!I am felling happy to watched video from you.I get a lot of from your video.and you ask us to make comments.I would make one. I gess that we can make a instrument which can make multipoint volts record when make test driving.such as at both sides of every actuator,connector on the electrical lines with problemes so that we can find the intermediem problom.If add a edited software we can make a problem ntermittent solute system.
I have an mg zr 105 when i press the remote to open only the passenger door opens ,checked fusses but all ok ,cannot unlock drivers door to check the.Do you perhaps have any suggestions as to what the problem is
Did you find out what it was? Yesterday I started to have same problem w/doors on 2001 Saturn SL2, though only one door (RP) keep get unlocked, others just chattering.
What if your car is doing this and the interior lights are coming on as well? Plus the auto headlight feature is not working. 2002 Ford Taurus SEL. The alarm will also go off for no reason after its parked and locked with the key fob. What should be checked and in what order?
It seems like you have several possible weak points in this circuit, and you got lucky and found the bad switch right away. What made you go for that back key switch first?
where can I gind a technician like you, my 04 chevy suburban is doing exactly the same and not even the dealer has been able to fix it,I m very concerned anout driving it as we use it to transport our grand kids, any suggestions? thanks
Not to be too picky on the grammar but the description should say "when you're driving..." not "your." "You're" is a contraction for the two words "you" and "are." "Your" denotes possession. Thank you for a good repair series.
Hi there, hope all is well!! Just want to ask you if perhaps you have an idea about what’s happening with my 1997 Subaru Impreza, the doors unlock when I press down the brakes 😳 I would appreciate any advice. Thank you 🙏 and God Bless!
Hi Duane, This is the first time I got a question after watching the video, may be i am over thinking. When you connect ur scope to the ground(three wires(red, blue and yellow) i hope u have connected black to positive. you also told ground is provided only when switch is activated, this means if switch is not activated, (ie no ground), means i should not see voltage in scope, (am i missing something). but how am i seeing 5 volt, when ground is applied, it make sense to see close to 0 volt.
hi there when I get out my hummer h3 my drivers side front door locks on its own for no reason .the other three dont unless i lock them. it dont matter if the engine is running or not and it doesn't do it all the time. i have been locked out many times and opened the back door to unlock the drivers would actuator cause this if not what else cause it
Door locks are always electronically commanded open or closed. The switch has two positions, open or closed. The signal originates in the switch. You either have a faulty switch itself or a poor connection at the switch.
I have one for you to figure out...2004 Dodge Dakota...hearing random chimes (no error codes/warning lights come on) then sometimes I'm driving down the road and my doors will unlock then after the doors unlock the interior dome lights will turn on. The dome lights won't shut off until I shut the engine off. I'm sick of "Googling" stuff and watching videos and Lord knows I don't want to break the bank with a dealer...any suggestions?
Of course it is hard to be sure without seeing it, but from what you describe it sounds like a faulty "door ajar" switch. Try unplugging all door ajar switches and jumper them to a closed door position and see if that stops the chimes and door unlock and dome light problem.
@@realfixesrealfast I cleaned the battery terminals and cable connection to the battery and so far only heard one single chime. No doors unlocking or lights turning on. We'll see if it lasts! (Crossing my fingers! )
