Dear Sir.... Which type port is best for produce maximum low frequency Bass Aero Port or Slot port? And where which side this place at the top or in the bottom?
@@exislaamnowbeinganinsaanah3302 The port type (round vs rectangle) is not that important. The best direction/location of the port will depend on the car.
As an enthusiast I love that you're doing this. You are showing that it is possible for a beginner to get into it. I've built probably 40 boxes or so in my life, but now that I'm getting old, I don't know that I want to build anymore lol
@@DIYAudioGuy isn't it frustratingly fun to be a beginner. I like Mr. Eric have built quite a few boxes...all sealed though. I was an anti-porter in my younger years. Now I am intrigued by the fluid dynamics of a ported enclousre. Hope I said that correctly.
I have one under the tree for my son who recently got his first car. It’s nice to get a preview with this review. I guess we will find out for ourselves in about a week.
I stand by all of Jonathan's products. Seriously. The d4s is really good. New subs coming from them too, pretty much gonna be sundown but they'll be dope!
You mentioned not having space to build a box... When I first moved to Huntsville, AL nearly 5 years ago, I was living in a 450 sq. ft. studio apartment; all I had was what fit in my car to move out here. While making peanuts working my way up in a new job, I did a lot of side work building props, furniture, and subwoofer boxes with little more than a tape measure, a hand saw and a $20 plug-in drill from Harbor Freight. It was slow, tedious, and a huge pain in the butt, but it's possible. There were some nights I slept in my computer chair 'cause the bed was leaned up against the wall to make room for larger projects. How bad do you want a box? :D
After opening the the top, you must Turn the box upside down and pull the carton up. This the the best way to get heavy and big items from box. This way you wont damage the box, you might need it if you return it...
I used to have a single 10" sundown in a box I built. I built it in a slightly smaller box than it recommended (space restrictions). It still bumped and sounded clean. I'll always have big respect for sundown. No bs quality subwoofers.
Nice review. I recently traded cars with my wife and it's much harder to hit lows in the new one. I went with 1.75 cf and tuned it to 28 or 29 (from 2.8 tuned to 33) and it sounds great all around
Great video,& impressive ‘pro fab’ box. I haven’t built a box since ‘07. Manufacturers finally figured out most people do want a plug and play, along with quality. Obviously, if you are going to compete, well, thats the time, imo to custom build.👍🏼
We touched on the dat being few hrz lower on all enclosure. I think it would be good to figure out whats wrong. Are the enclosure and apps wrong or is the dat off a few. Dose the sub have to face up with the port while testing, try different things see if you get another reading
I've been extremely happy with my LAB SlapBox that's made specifically for my JBL W12GTI MKII (Been discontinued for years now, thank god I got it just before they did, as well as my Precision Power amps). It's 2cu ft, vented & tuned to 30Hz but the sub and box combo plays beautifully from way down low in the 20's all the way up to over 100hz. I have yet to sit in a car with better bass SQ/fun than mine. Most of the cars I've been in which people rave about their bass, I've put tracks and their frequency response is either all over the place with holes where they basically play no bass at all, to playing the bass very softly to then destroying the car in that one small frequency range the sub is actually hitting. With my setup, I typically don't play it super loud anymore, and I still get enough bass to feel it on my body, while also hitting all of the frequency range I have lowpassed beautifully. No rattles inside the car, which took A LOT of work separated over long periods of time. Well, there is still one tiny rattle on the right doorcard at certain frequencies, but it's very slight and not enough for me to go through the trouble of adjusting/modding panels anymore. I've had this setup since 2016 with no problems :) Anyway, I rambled way too much and didn't even say the most important part: ENCLOSURES ARE JUST AS, IF NOT MORE IMPORTANT THAN YOUR SUB. Can't tell you how many systems I've seen that sound like crap and it's because they bought a massive sub (like a 15") and they have it on the tiniest, cheapest, prefab sealed boxes possible. Then they wonder why their sub doesn't kick. They're being choked!
@@DIYAudioGuy Yup, and yet so many people continue to do it, even today when everybody has internet access/google/limitless information in the palm of their hands.
Nice review and test. Not everyone is trying to rattle windows a block away. This enclosure and sub combo look like a great budget option. Won't take up the entire storage area in your vehicle either. Plenty for most people.
Thank you for the review, what amp would you choose to drive the sub? Stinger audio MT70001 or Down4Sound MM1000 or a Down4Sound JP8 V1.5. its going to a electric car
Hello DIY audio guy. I see your using the JP8 800 watt amplifier on the single 12" D4S loaded enclosure. This is the exact setup I'm looking to get but did you set the gain just below till the amp clips? The amp is 800 watts but sub is 500 Watt RMS? It's not going to damage the sub?
Ct sounds makes a single 12 kerf ported prefab with 2 cubic ft. For around 110 dollars ....I bought one for my truck until I could get my custom box built and it sounds great ...
Pretty cool. Looks like a well-made box. If I was tuning the box, I might tune it a little higher for musical preference. That is the only thing you miss out on with buying a prefab box. When my friends and I would make boxes we would mess with lengths to get it tuned exactly how we wanted it. We even made boxes tuned to something ridiculously high like 55hz for competitions just because it made more spl than a 40hz box.
@@DIYAudioGuy aero ports are pretty cool for this reason, and a few others! I've had great results with adjustable aero ports in many installations! Super easy to tune, install and get great results.
@@georgesrisomsak9650 Conversely, I'm in the process of designing an adjustable port enclosure with various panel lengths. In theory, I could tune it to between 24hz to 46hz, with the additional ability also become sealed. Right now, I'm being limited to the necessity of it being 5ft³+ and seemingly every manufacturer I contact turn me down for the project, as I don't have the tools to properly build it myself. So... Still in concept.
I would not let that stop you. This DATS has consistently measured a tuning frequency that is about 4hz below The frequency the formula / the manufacturer's specifications.
What's your take on breaking in subwoofers? I recently bought two 12 Kenwood Excelon subwoofers at 500 rms 4 ohms. I also have a kenwood amp that's 500 rms at 4 ohms and I paralled wires them together. I have a stock stereo so I have a LC2i converter tapped in to my factory rear deck speaker. I got it tuned at a highly rated audio shop that doesn't have a single bad review on Yelp and Google and they were very professional. I don't have a bass knob so I was using my stereo's bass control that goes from -5 to +5. I played around with this for the first 3 days and I played them hard. The fourth day the glue on the outer rubber came off on both of them and now I'm getting replacements from Crutchfield. Tech support told me they both shouldn't have had the glue come off if it was a defect and was probably not tuned right. I'm not pointing fingers at anyone but this shop has tuned hundred of systems with LC2i's and I really hope they were defected and the glue didn't cure right from the factory. But I do think it's weird it happened to both of them. Should I break in my replacements or play them normally? I would really appreciate the advice!
There's a ton of confusion about break-in. Break-in is a real thing, after playing the subs for a little bit the suspension will soften up and they will sound different. But it's not something you do in order to prevent damage to the subwoofers.
I've been trying to buy a single 15 like that for a while. I finally went to GP Audio and got a flat pack glue and screw. I'm currently putting it together, so I don't know how it sounds yet.
@@DIYAudioGuy I just put a Gately Relentless 8 in my wife's jeep compass, in a Gately box, they are beautiful, very well built and just an all around great investment.
Hey DIY audio guy… I know custom built enclosure are the best, but currently I’m using the Skar single 12” prefab. I seen your review on it, but how would you rate this one compared to that?
If you are planning on doing more prefab reviews you should try the harmony box with the dual ports. I would love to hear ur opinion on it since i am planning on using this box in the system i put in my fiances car for her birthday.
You might want to check out "ground shaker" as Ive seen window bracing, double baffle, and 45s in some of their prefabs..also they make a bandpass which I'm not sure if they're any good.. but really curious..
I have a qbomb kerf 10" box tuned to 35hz. My two 10" soundqubed 3.2s sound amazing in this box. I'm so tempted to buy a down 4sound profab to see If i can get better performance.
Any chance you could do the Qbomb box with the "horn" port? Always wondered what it's really tuned to. The inside port is also curved but it looks very short and it's huge.
I thought about getting one of these for my dad I bought him a audiopipe bdc4 12 for Christmas in 2020 and he's got it in a box with a skar sdr 12 and the box is tuned at 48hz and I know that it would sound better and louder in one of these boxes but they still out of stock but I guess it gives me time to save some money and maybe they will have some in by father's day
Been a long time since I built myself a box. I've literally built every kind of box and I was curious what the market had. Building you're own boxes is easy if you know what specs you are working with.
Was just looking for a new sub for my Jeep Wrangler. Trying to decide on an amp and maybe one of these boxes with a different sundown sub or maybe the qbomb with a sundown sub. I would like at least 1k watt amp. Any suggestions?
The JP8 is the best bang for the buck amplifier on the market. lddy.no/133la It'll do every bit of a thousand watts, with a strong electrical system it'll do 1200.
I'm looking for a prefab box. I have a audiopipe txx-bdc3-12 that recommends a ported box between 2.5 - 3 cu ft. If I use a box that's 2 cu ft, will that .5 of a difference have a noticeable effect on sound, power handling, etc.? The other boxes I'm looking at are a ground shaker 2.7 cu ft, tuned to 30hz, and the QBomb box.
Heres something you may have not considered, alot of people that havent built their own also habe someone else build a custom box. I muself got a custom built box but didnt build it! Just something to think about
Yes, all day long. Bigger box, better bass. This preloaded box with a sundown subwoofer is a whole lot better. If you decide to purchase from down4sound please click on the affiliate links in the description. Does not cost you a thing, but it helps me out a ton.
Just got this in today. The red and black terminals the speaker wire connect to at the cup are ones you tighten like a screw. Is it as simple as putting the bare wire in and just tightening? Worried I’m gonna cut the wire
Yep. When you unscrew it you'll see a little hole, just stick the wire in that hole and tighten down the terminal. I think you can also use banana plugs if you're into banana plugs. You won't have enough leverage to cut through the speaker wire, unless it's very small wire, or unless you are a total badass with fingers that can bench press 200 lbs.
@@DIYAudioGuy awesome man thanks for the info and peace of mind. This thing is a beast and I got it at a good price ! Keep doing what you do, definitely a fan
So I bought this sub, what box should I put this in lmao, I had a single sub box but man every time it hits it sounds nasty (gersh gersh) sounds like the box is about to split jajaja.. American Bass ELITE-1244 2400w 12" Competition Car Subwoofer 3" Voice Coil/150Oz Site says 3.25 cubic ft 32hz 13in tall 32in wide 21.75in deep I cant seem to find this box, of course lmao.. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciate my man, its also going in a single cab truck, thanks
You might be hearing chuffing -- that is what you get when the port opening is to small. I recommend a custom enclosure so that you get the most out of it. I offer design services, but I am a little backed up at the moment so I don't have time to do it.
The Sundown E vs. the Ultimax? The Sundown has more motor force and a stiffer suspension to go with it. That stiffer suspension gives a higher resonate frequency. How does that translate into sound? Depends on the box.
Car audio has come a long way in the last 5 years for the beginner. You used to get a prefab made horribly tuned into the mid 40s. Now you can get a box like this. I've ran a ton of prefabs and this is the best I've seen. The skar box is also decent for 1500 watts and under imo. But the first to do it I think was Atrend they made some good boxes tuned in the low to mid 30s 5-7 years ago.
@@DIYAudioGuy They actually team up with other manufacturers. They build boxes for digital designs I know for sure. There 30hz dual 10 box was the best I've used for a prefab.
Tried almost every pre-fab box on the internet and this is the best one. It's heavier and tuned lower than all other prefabs as some advertise 30Hz and it's really 45Hz.
When running the dats try putting the box in different positions and try moving it to different locations, see if anything changes. Thats very wired all the enclosure are comin in low tuning
Best way to do it is to run the test with the sub and vent pointing upwards, so they're not "loaded" by any nearby flat surfaces. I suspect that the Fb would measure a little low anyway because with a slot vent like that, the effective length ends up being slightly longer than the actual length as the internal opening for the vent is loaded by the side panel, which increases the vent's effective length.
I've had the single 8 down4sound box for about 6 months. I used it for about 4 months of that. The terminal cup is garbage. It's not braced enough. I had the Skar ZVX-8 and only doing about 950 watts and the box was tearing apart already.
thank you for this tid bit, I definitely would like to run max, not that I will be cranking it hard all the time, just like to have the power when I need it! @@DIYAudioGuy
I got a question for anyone. For a dual sub box, Is there any difference in a dual port box with a port on each end or a box with the port in the center? I like the looks of the port in the center better.
Thank yo in for response, Down4sound dropped the sundown e12 down to 199.00 free shipping, I jumped on that one. I hear so many good things on sundown.
I have the profad 4-12inch box, only issues i have had is the speakers cutouts are very close together, when inverting the subs can be difficult. Also there are NO screws holding the box together just glue. How do i know this because i blew the bottom off, i reglued and SCREWED everything. Box lives the lows, im running 4 skar audio vxf on 2 taramps bass 5ks, 80 ah of Yinglong
Not so fast, how about the. Ground-Shaker GS-30HZ112B Single Competition Ported 12in box for $220.00? I brought one of these instead for my Deaf Bonce 3512 sub and it's tuned to 30hz!
@@DIYAudioGuy well here you go, this Ground Shaker box is a 2.7 cube inch box tuned for 30hz and can just about take on any 12inch sub over 3500rms and above for $220.00. This prefab box would be good content!
Isn't this wired to 2 ohms, not 1? It could be either really but from that measurement I would bet it's a dual 4 ohm sub. The coils really just are closer to 3 than 4 ohms.
@@DIYAudioGuy Just double checked they have two versions of the dual 10" box and both are out of stock on D4S site. Here in Canada, the only authorized D4S dealer is Car Audio Direct and they too are out. Neither have any easy way to communicate unless you're on Facebook or Instagram which I am not so.... I will continue to wait and see. Thanks for reaching out though.
So I just got one of these mainly because of your review on it! First impressions is just wow this thing is awesome. I seem to be getting some port noise though. It’s right behind me like you have in your truck is that something you experienced? I feel like if it was in the truck you would hear it but I definitely do since it’s right behind me.
I'm really impressed with sundown but not much for tuning and impedance people who uses prefab has reasons that are more important and is hard to understand building themselves a box.
No idea! My guess is that they ran out of the pre-installed ones and shipped you a sub and box separately. I would reach out to D4S customer service and see if they can tell you more.
Hello sir! I just stumbled upon this company Lab (life after bass) that make these pre-fab boxes and instantly thought of you! Hopefully you can check them out sometime !
You probably kidding but I'm dead serious I'm sending an email right now 🤣 I wish I could screenshot it. I hope they do reach out to you 🙏🏾. Won't hurt to try! 🤷🏾♂️
The struggle is real! I don't make a cut without some kind of edge guide. Having a table salt helps a lot. You can also get one of these: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NWbE3oZdJXs.html They also make a track saw. I'm seriously thinking about getting one and selling my table saw.
@@DIYAudioGuy full volume or two weeks on half? Seriously appreciate the reply. Just got a 15" American bass mid tier (for them) it's my first new sub ever and don't want to blow it up.
@@mrsir2378 there are a lot of ways that you can damage a subwoofer, failing to break it in is not one of them. You can go full send today and let all the smoke out of it. You can play at low to moderate volume levels for 2 weeks and then go full send and smoke it. The root cause is the same. If you really worried about protecting your driver just make sure your gains and infrasonic filters are set properly. After that it's a simply a matter of using your ears and your nose, if it sounds bad or smells bad turn it down.
I made a video just because people didn't believe me once. I said that if one coil of a DVC sub was shorted to itself then it would create some power and the short would load it as much as possible therefore giving the worst possible performance of a subwoofer. I measured voltage off of one coil while the other was being used and got more than 10 volts out of it easily.
Oh, also. I think double baffles are a bit over rated and not necessary on a lot of boxes I see with them. I usually use a single baffle and some bracing unless the subwoofer is ridiculous huge
I usually do a double baffle because I like to recess the subwoofer. I would have like to have seen a little bit of bracing in This enclosure, but that's not something you see on prefab single sub enclosures.
@@DIYAudioGuy you’re right! But for a budget build you can’t go wrong with Qbomb especially if you not doing it for competition, just for musical reason
@@josecunsako31 I'm still a big fan of the Q bomb box. When I bought it to review my intention was to trash it because I thought it was garbage. I could not have been more wrong.
@@DIYAudioGuy as soon as I saw the video I saw that,but was more amazed how it was tuned less than what the specs were. I’m glad you made the video on the Qbomb cuz 5 months ago I bought the single 12” Qbomb box and 12”svr from a shop out here. I didn’t know nothing about box tuning at that time but I’m glad that the speaker recommendation on skar is 34hz and the Qbomb box is 34hz after watching your video sir I was spot on with my tuning 💪🏻 my music sounds perfect with my setup with a single sub, mids and tweeters I have
