Drag Racing Suspension Baseline Part 2 Pinion Angle and New 4 Link Plot

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Drag Racing Suspension Baseline Part 2 Pinion Angle and New 4 Link Plot will go over more of the suspension tuning and chassis setup of the BlownSBC 53 Studebaker with BigTires. This video just continues to vlog the setup of the baseline on the chassis setup and suspension tuning that goes into getting the Studebaker ready for track testing!
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21 май 2022

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Комментарии : 27

@toddsculley2710 Год назад

I love your still working with your dad. Hopefully me and my son get to do the same thing as long as u two have. Take care u two. B safe

@AustinBoil 2 года назад

To keep it simple, I pretend the driveshaft isn't in the car so ignore it. Measure pinion angle & Engine/Trans angle & your pinion angle is the difference between the two. Most modern full chassis cars have the Eng/Trans pointing uphill 1.7 to 2 degrees. With a full chassis your pinion will not move close to 2 degrees under load unless something is wrong. One degree negative pinion angle is usually plenty adequate. Remember, NO bolt threads through the 4 link brackets, use correct shank length NAS bolts. Jerry Bickel Race cars has them on his web site. If you don't use them, your bracket holes will egg shape before long. Also use doubler plates on the bracket holes for added surface area. Great job on the video as always.

@KevinWilsonSBC 2 года назад

All great points for sure... however, recently I have had some trucks in the shop with 5 degrees down on the motor/trans as they sit much higher than the rear end... street converted to track type situations. In those situations, I always try to keep the driveshaft angles in mind at the trans and pinion yoke so while I am there I just stay in the habit of documenting all the angles for my own documentation. I have had a few trucks that had too much angle on the driveshaft/trans yoke thus requiring some modifications to the engine/trans mounts to correct. Thanks for commenting!!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE! PS. Yeah, I am considering the NAS bolts for sure. These bolts have the shoulder through the 4 link brackets for sure. Threads need a washer to get the lock nut tight. Those lock nuts are grade 5 for now, but they will be changed this week to grade 8. Bolts are grade 8 now. Good call!!

@sanger440 2 года назад

Not going to find a more detailed and thorough explanation anywhere. Thank you.

@xmotoxchamp4u 2 года назад

Beautiful car.

@doughermann1035 2 года назад

I've been running 106% on my nova for a few years. Biggest issue I have is .3 seconds out. sometime it will come up on the tire. not very often. Mines quite a bit heavier @ 3350. instant center is almost the same . Be interesting to see how it works for you

@greggkocel7576 Год назад

Kevin - Why don’t we note sway bar rate like circle track cars? We treat them as serious tuning aids? No numbers,no spring rate no motion ratio.30”bar vs 16”.I’m sure the16 is stiffer right?how about the length of the horizontal bar connecting sway bar to link on the housing

@johnmurphy6356 2 года назад

Kevin, upper bolt-in safety shoulder straps should come off the upper bar behind the seat (wrapped or bolted). They should only angle downward a small amount to their attachment points (according to all safety harness manufacturer's instructions). Yours go through the seat holes then go way down to the bolt-in spot. In case of ta crash, you want the tension on the strap pulling in an almost straight line. In your case they would try to crush the seat (and your shoulders) downward. Please be safe and attach them to the upper bar behind the seat. Thanks for listening.

@KevinWilsonSBC 2 года назад

Thanks so much, John! I will get that addressed. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!

@tavbfl 2 года назад

I hope you plan to replace the grade 5 hardware on the four link bars. Great info!

@KevinWilsonSBC 2 года назад

O yes... they are grade 8 bolts now with a shoulder supporting the 4 link brackets all the way. The nuts are grade 5 for now, but those will be replaced with grade 8 nuts. I will eventually switch over to the NAS 5/8" fine thread bolts and nuts. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!

@pmreng 2 года назад

Nice, thanks for sharing. Can't wait to see how the car goes. I think with the amount torque the engine makes, larger diameter 4-link bars would be a viable upgrade in the future and even more importantly reinforcing the ARB mount to the chassis, just doesn't look all that structurally rigid..

@KevinWilsonSBC 2 года назад

Yes... I do agree. I will get some longer bottom bars made soon and they will be bigger. The ARB mounts are definitely concerning to me as well. Thanks for commenting. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!

@jaredshoemaker9196 2 года назад

Are you setting this car up for a prepped surface or a no prep surface? Do you have any idea when you'll be testing the car? Love these videos. Thanks so much for sharing this information. Take care, be safe, and have fun regardless.

@KevinWilsonSBC 2 года назад

Prepped surface only. Likely testing in the next week or two. Thanks!!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!

@BearFulmer 2 года назад

A set of trammel points would be even easier and maybe more helpful, plus it is shorter to get under things

@richschmelkin6035 2 года назад

Kevin, I’m trying to wrap myself around your digital angle finder measurements. More specifically the crank / engine measurement you showed. You showed 89.5 and we could see the arrow indicator pointing down. It seems like you discarded the 89 and went with just .5 down? If it had said 91.0 would that have been considered zero? Also your drive shaft angle measurements. Where do you recommend measuring that angle? Sometimes I see some variance depending on where you put the angle finder on the driveshaft. Is the rule of thumb to measure the drive shaft angle as close to the yoke as possible?

@KevinWilsonSBC 2 года назад

LIke I said in the video, I knew people would have questions so I will be doing 1 more video on all this with the chalkboard. If the motor was level then it would be 90 degrees on the face of the crankshaft in a vertical position. 90 degrees is exactly perpendicular to 0 degrees. So 90 degrees when measuring vertically like this is your 0 reference. With the angle finder you can see it is 89.5 degrees down. So the math is 90 - 89.5 = .5 degrees down. Just to confirm it was down, you will see I tilted the digital angle finder some to confirm the down angle. So, if I would have had a flat machined surface on the motor or trans horizontally, the gauge would have read .5 degrees down. Go back and watch that portion again please. If it had read 91 the motor would be 1 degree up. Yes, measure the driveshaft near the you-joint you are wanting to reference, but a 1 piece driveshaft angle should be same regardless where you measure along the length of the driveshaft. I just do it near the trans yoke and the pinion yoke. Stay tuned for a video on this topic 1 last time. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!

@richschmelkin6035 2 года назад

@@KevinWilsonSBC ok. I follow now. Thanks for clearing that up . Makes sense now.

@evil16v1 2 года назад

What is the correct name for the Aamco tool you dad was using on the front wheel for camber?

@KevinWilsonSBC 2 года назад

They are very hard to find anymore.. I will look it over real good to see if I can find more about it. I have always called it a camber/caster bubble gauge.... Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!

@evil16v1 2 года назад

@@KevinWilsonSBC thanks Kevin. I'm somewhat of a machinist, so could probably make one, push come to shove.... But if i can figure out what to look for id rather buy one. I am finding less and less alignment shops that want to do this type of thing. I figure I'll start equiping myself.

@jdubcbr600 2 года назад

Lol, I believe I'm confusing myself. Front end of my car sits a couple of inches lower than the rear at full rest and my engine is level with the ground. Does my engine need to be parallel with the frame rail for all this to come out right?

@KevinWilsonSBC 2 года назад

It doesn't need to be level with the frame. Based on the type of rear suspension you are running would determine how much pinion rotation you would factor in to your static pinion angle. Don't make this too difficult. As long as your driveshaft is not doing some crazy up angle to the rear end you will be fine. If a solid heim joint 4 link put the pinion at 2 degrees down... leaf spring with caltracs I would go 3.5 - 4 degrees down on the pinion. These are high level generic guidelines. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!

@jdubcbr600 2 года назад

@@KevinWilsonSBC Thanks a bunch, up front I'm sorry this response is so long. Cars a g body El Camino turbo ls deal, 1000hp I set up for no prep. All heims, Trick chassis 8.8 kit so i can adjust upper control arm angle with double adjustable arms upper and lower. I have some vibration under hard acceleration im having trouble getting rid of. Driveshaft been to the builder twice to make sure its right, 3* down pinion angle with 40"long IC around 10 or 11" high, 130% AS. The more - pinion angle I give it the lesser the vibration but I'm at my shortest upper bar length and 3* down is kinda high. The engine sits kind of high in the chassis so my next modification is gonna be to lower it some and while I'm at it gonna move the engine back as far as possible maybe even cut into the firewall, cuz no-prep. Right now drive shaft center to center of the joints is 61 3/4" so would like to shorten that # significantly. Also recently purchased Trz adjustable lower control arm brackets for the rear end. This will let me move the IC and AS around some more. With only being able to adjust the upper on body side im kinda stuck with the current settings.

@puunersjabski6487 2 года назад

Do you watch kc Maxx small tire firebird?

@KevinWilsonSBC 2 года назад

I know who you are talking about... Does he cover suspension tuning on YT or somewhere? He is a serious no prep competitor for sure. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!