Good info man, keep it going! I bought a traxxas 10 years+ ago that was my first rotostart engine and I thought I was in the future. Now after all these years I'll take a tight pullstart over the drill any day, way less hassles I find.
I don’t know why I started laughing so hard when you said “trying to start a big ass chainsaw” 😂 😂 reminds me of my friend yanked the hell out of the pull start, now he put a drill start. Keep up the good work 👍 and keep burnin nitro 😃
Thank you very much mate, you've just told me everything I wanted to know. I had a Cen Truggy years ago that I'd drill start & the motor went bad, it started leaking fuel out everywhere.. I had a suspicion it was because I'd over primed it.. Now I know for sure.. I have a bad back & bending down & yanking is something I'd rather avoid.. I went over to the dark side & switched to brushless but I've been jonesing for that smell & noise of nitro, I don't even care it they're not as quick as electric now.!!! It's just not RC for me without nitro.! I've just gotten an FTX Nitro Zorro & I thought I'd better just check before going out to run it... Thank you so much.. Stay safe out there mate & best wishes from Scotland 🏴 🙏👍🏻👍🏾👍
Thanks man for the kind words! And I'm glad you found this helpful! Definitely get yourself a new nitro and enjoy it! I do have a Facebook group nitro/diesel/gas rc and more if you want to check it out just 2 questions to answer and I will add you in! 🍻
Wow awesome video you just cleared up my thoughts about using a drill and the torque settings I know many people must have destroyed thousands and thousands of engines because they didn't see this video.
The hpi rotostart system is easily installed on other models such as .18 vx On my old Savage motor I welded the oneway bearing I could start it with a drill but I prefer a good old pulstart no longer need the one way bering
I fully agree with you about pull starters. People make a HUUUUUUUGE deal how they pull starters suck soo bad, but it’s simply because people are dopey and yank the pull starter WAYY too far.For me, as if my pull starter starts to give me heaven resistance, I simply stop, remove the glow plug, put a rag over the engine head and pull a few times to try to clear out the flood, clean the glow plug, test it, put it back, and go at it again. And tha5 drama only happens when I don’t have access to a heat gun. I’ve learned tha5 when I pre heat my engine with a heat gun pretty hot, and the settings are right, it fires right up in a few short quick pulls. Pull starters are fine! People are too dramatic about the littlest things like that. This was a useful vid! I wanna try this for the heck of it. I actually have a hpi firestorm 10t 3.0 nitro engine so hopefully it’s the kind like your hpi where it will work with a socket
I hear ya man people freak out about it and I just tell them it's user error trying to crank a flooded engine or yanking it like they are trying to start a chainsaw lol
Hey man, great tips on usung a drill to start these motors. Usually its tough to get to in some cars, as u know. Btw id be interested in a video about starting a nitro engine backwards. As some ppl flip the one way bearing and it runs in reverse. Rare but happens.
Hey buddy most definitely and it works fine like I said as long as you're being careful but maybe I will make a video about trying to start something backwards just for fun 🙃 😅
thebug 404 awesome, im sure many of ur viewers will be surprised to hear that u can actually start a nitro engine backwards, i know inwas wen i first realized it.
Using too much after run oil will make the compression too tight and caused the pull starter to break saying with flooding and forcing the engine to start as well as over extending!
I’m all good with knowing it’s called the drill start now I just need to know what torque to put on the drill for my 3.3 revo. Sorry for being so confusing. lol
you earned a sub.. i just got a slayer with an lrp engine.. i almost started it with a drill cause it has that nut on it.. you cant fit the pull start or ez start on it.. thank you
Great videos bro! I just installed a electric starter system on my AE 15 works like a champ had to mod it a bit to fit the back plate. But I do have a back up stock plate for it as well. Never thought about what kinda damage the drill could do. I'll just have to pay close attention when I prime the motor. Do you think you can do a vid on the throttle and brake set up! If not I have a bunch of question if you wouldn't mind could I email you.? Keep up the great work, and I'm definitely going to try putting a SH 18 carb on my motor.
Hey thanks man and yeah! You have to be careful! And as far as Linkage setup I will see if I can get that in my next video when the bearings come in and then I will replace those on video but for now you can check out my group on Facebook
For a lot of guys like us that just go bashing we don't want to have to buy 500$ in extra equipment and carry that stuff around just to get a few 1000 more rpm. Plus there is a lot of models that you can't bump start like my hpi savage or tmaxx for example.
Never even heard of that model before but what I can suggest is go on to Facebook and look up the Nitro RC enthusiast group and post a video of the issue
No problem! And they are very good engines not much to say about their roto starts they don't seem to last or there pull starters are never available or way to much money other than that good stuff KBN
Novarossi engines are pretty good, you should check out the novarossi elite 5 it’s cheaper than most of their engines. I have 4 gallons on mine, running like a champ 👍
Great video. Thanks for the info. My problem is the one you mentioned. A Novarossi with an internal bearing. As you know, the pull starts are near impossible to find. Do you have any other options I can look into? Thanks.
@@HustleHabit That's a tall order unfortunately I kinda hated that company for that They sold you pull start engines but they never sold the pool starts or they were very expensive or always out of stock there roto start systems were garbage to considering a engine manufacturer of quality the bump start engine were the only engines worth buying half the time all the RTR engines never had parts available or were so expensive it wasn't worth it I sold a ton of them for parts and got away from it years ago now that company is gone they shut the doors for ever unfortunately
@@thebug4046 Thankfully the engine is an HPI 12r but built by Novarossi. I was able to get the part number and actually find one new in package 📦 talk about a blessing. Got to be one of the last ones in existence lol
@@HustleHabit those are awesome but rear i do have a group on Facebook nitro/diesel/gas rc and more if you want to check it out maybe someone might know
got a kyosho sandmaster stadium truck missing pull starter any clues on what pull starters work on an os Max .10 FP? would mean a world to me if someone knew
Oh man that's a tall order they had a few different starters for that engine. Also just a heads up run it on airplane fuel! Or additional castor must be used or the engine will not last very long
@@thebug4046 yeah I cant seem to find nothing but other engines with crankcase covers and aparently they were mostly used as rc airplane motors so idk what to do with my sandmaster
@@chavasrt4428 Yes that engine was predominantly used as an aircraft engine for a long time in the late 80s to early 1990s. But! That doesn't matter. Any small block with the same length crank and side port exhaust will work. Post your truck up in Nitro Rc Enthusiast group on Facebook and we can help ya! Just be sure to answer the 3 questions when joining
Pull starts are fine. If it doesn’t start, there’s something wrong with the either the operator or there’s something wrong with the engine. I’ve been on the end of both haha! Both make your eyes spin in separate orbits 😂 Just picked up a roto start to play with. I’m running HPI-Force big blocks so should be interesting. I think probably it’s best to use pull start from cold. Once it’s warm and been running, I’m hoping the risks with a Roto/drill are reduced 🤔
That's what I tell people all the time if it won't start in the first few pulls something is wrong and you see people go drill start and crank the dam thing for like 5 minutes with no fire lol
Hello bud I was just wondering if you can help me out with a problem i took apart a hsp vx18 nitro engine and the piston head were the piston arm pin is had a white plastic bits on each side of it that one of them came out and couldn't find it would it have any problems with the engine starting up and can't get it the right high end and low end needle settings to get it started if you can help me out with any thing i would be most grateful 🤝
those are the piston pin retainers. The engine well destroyed itself if you run without them in 10 seconds of starting it. You can buy the pin new on eBay with retainers for a few bucks. And being that I can't see the engine running i can't help much here. I can suggest going to the Nitro RC enthusiasts group on Facebook im an admin in their. Post up video of the problem that way we can help you 💯😎🍻
@@thebug4046 yeah I thought it would cause a problem glad I didn't try to start it and I found the little white thing I'll try and do a little video of it tomorrow and I will send you a link to see if you can help if that's ok with you and thanks very much my friend for getting back to me 🤝
My dynamite motor that came on my losi rtr car has a external 1 way bearing, can I drill start it? I’ve seen you say no on dynamite motors and drill starting but my one way bearing is on the backside. Does it have another one inside?
At all depends they could have changed it I don't know if they did or not but if you take the pollster off and the one way shaft comes out of the engine then no you cannot
It's very difficult to do this over tax because I can't see what you're doing I have no idea so the best thing to do would be to join my group there on Facebook and post a video of what you're dealing with
@@thebug4046 Come to think of it, all 3 of you are Canadian. So, that probably has something to do with it, you have the same word inflections. Like when you say "process" it's a little different than how we say it in the states!
I have the internal bearing and I’ve already ruined it Waiting for the bearing to come in now… I tried to drill start it, how can I tell if I ruined the internal starting mechanism?
@@thebug4046the internal crankshaft is scuffed/scraped a little but not bent. The internal one way bearing is cracked. I have the exceed-rc madwarrior .21 nitro engine and since they don’t seem to be selling replacements anymore (because it’s a very old company), I purchased an internal one way bearing that looks the exact same (hoping it fits the same) from redcat. I’m also looking to get an ez start mechanism, because in theory if it bolts on, it should hold that little smooth starter shaft (that would normally slip out when drill starting) - in place. If it seems loose, or like it has room to come out I will order a pull start instead, or fill the extra space in with something so it cant budge any. Does this seem alright to do? Should I expect the one way bearing to fit, even though it’s from a different company? Thank you so much for responding to a comment on a Three year-old video. 😂 I just got into the hobby so there’s so much to learn. To add onto that, I know nothing about motors! In case you ask; this is the name of the bearing on Amazon; “Redcat Racing h025 Sh.28 & Sh.21 One Way Bearing”
@@jimmiewilson626 most SH dynamite one way bearings are the same and should work no problem 😊! But since I can't see what you're working with hit up the Nitro RC enthusiasts group on Facebook and post up in their. I'm in their as well
I have bought myself a used kyosho mad cruiser but i lost some parts on the motor and now it looks like these engines in the vid i cant even find any spare parts online pls need some help😢
Don't waste your time on the original engine. Buy a dynamite 28RTR they are like 115$ USD drops in with no modifications and is a better more powerful engine. Also order the OS lc3 glow plug for it if your running 20% nitro or the OS LC4 if your running 30% nitro.
@@donerbude9317 220 for a new engine is actually pretty cheap. My buddy just picked up a OS 21v spec for racing it was 650 Canadian lol if you need more help go to Facebook and join the Nitro RC enthusiasts group. I'm an admin in their post a picture or video of an issue we will get you sorted out 💯
@@thebug4046the Problem of my engine is that the starting Rope rippen and the whole Part Broke i just need the little Pin which goes into the shaft and a new Rope starter
Not sure what that is Now there is a video floating around of a guy who has his set up direct drive with no clutch and you can actually push start your car but it's pretty much pointless because as soon as you stopped the engine stalls
That's an easy one just replace your cord with a new one rewind it and you're good to go! Traxxas sells pull starter cord for a few bucks I have pull starter rebuild videos if needed
@@dustinrichards8401 just use the starter that is designed for it. The Traxxas pull starter fits. Don't use a drill to start it if you don't have to. As they do damage to the engine
@@thebug4046 I know it’s probably not recommended but would it hurt to run like 2 stroke mix in it the 2.5 engine, I originally mixed it for my old dirtbike but never got too use it and wondered if it would hurt it or not
Spraying WD-40 in a flooded engine is the dumbest thing ever. “Oh no my engine is flooded that means there is too much gas inside it maybe I should add more liquid to it 🤪”
Dude I honestly dont know how anyone could deal with nitro at all. I got a stampede pro 15 for $50 knowing full well that I dislike nitro from the special hell that is proprod motors. My brother said he wanted to get one because he is too lazy to charge a battery so I thought I'd go for it, tune it up and give it to him. I thought it was a good deal. I was wrong on all fronts. You might get the thing to run for 5 seconds frantically adjusting the carb to try to keep the thing alive. Mind you the idle screw is nearly impossible to turn because the gas tank is in the way and the motor vibrates frantically. By the third drill battery your throat burns from the exhaust and you have fuel everywhere and all over yourself. Plus you'll probably need a new one way bearing. The glow plug warmers are always crap and you have to hold them down to make them work. It's like you need a third arm just to get the damn things to kick over. When it does run, the behavior is so unpredictable that its impossible to run the car without slamming into something when it randomly goes full throttle on you. The pull starts break right after you go through the experience of fixing them. I can tune an old British carb or holly no problem but these things are impossible and infuriating. I cant even tell if its running too rich or too lean. Honestly its both and I cant fix it and get it to start afterwards without ruining the running adjustment. After thorough inspection, the thing seems like it should work great but refuses to do so just to spite you. How they ever run at all is an enigma and I don't know why I ever thought I'd try them again. I think Ill just stick to my 6s multirotor from now on, fuck...
Hit up the Nitro RC enthusiasts group on Facebook. It's probably simpl the pro 15s are very easy to run. I have 5 of them they run awesome! Fuel or exhaust system leaks wrong glow plug and poor quality fuel will be the problem unless it is warn of.
