Thank you for the video! Helped me out with my drive shaft replacement! Especially the patience required when refitting the driveshaft and suddenly everything lined up - click!
Thanks! It's amazing how long I've searched to find this simple tutorial. I finally figured out NOT to put in "2010 Sequoia". But also, nice and clear! Thanks!
Many thanks Si, did both driveshaft seals thanks to this video - hopefully last 100K miles at which point i'll be at 500K miles on my trusty old V70 D5. PS. fixed the fuel lock cap also thanks to your other video.
I love it! Real world work-on-your-driveway-with-Thor-the-Mighty-Hammer job. No Volvo Special Tool Number 295Y2-003 needed. Thank you for showing me how to do it. Next time I'll look at your video before spending two days bashing my knuckles and swearing a lot. Subscribed. Of course!
top tip, to get stubshaft seal out , knock it inwards . i tapped a big screw driver on seal face on one point and it knocks it in at an angle, and allows easy removal , saves and risk of damage. also, keep new seal in freezer overnight and fit quickly !
Hi Sir. I'm glad to meet you. I recently had the oil seal replaced in the garage .. but once mounted the range rover was on jacks with the wheels hanging out all the way .. at that moment the mechanic lifted the lift so the range was on his 4 wheels..then he removed the trestles ...and then he started lowering the car and just 1 meter above the floor. A huge but really a mega bang under the car. From that moment on my engine runs irregularly and as soon as I put it in drive and release the brake the car skips all it were it gets worse and now the mechanic says can't blame that bang if I 50 speed and a little bit of gas shocks the whole car .. again that bang that was released there .. makes me suspect that the spring washer was not quite right is this possible? greetings benito
If the mechanic doesn't take responsibility and make it right then you need to get yourself a solicitor and go after the mechanic in court for damages.
It's probably a silly question but will the oil not splash out when I remove both dribe shafts? I have an automatic transmission and I am getting mentally ready to do this job
Spot on!!! The cleanest and best explained video I've been. Many thanks for your time and kindness sharing it. How do you know is time to replace that part? Regards
A very clear video..thanks. Need to replace O/S seal on a C30..is it absolutely necessary to remove the drive shaft completely from the hub assembly or can you just detached ARB and track rod?
VIdeo just right in time! I changed the passenger side shaft a mont ago on my XC70 D5. Now the ñeft one is wobbling... Is it normal that is has a little bit of play on the gearbox side? I mean, the part that goes into the gearbox
Good video si I have an issue with a driveshaft at the moment but think it may be a diff bearing, how much movement should be in the shaft end in the gearbox
They may be sided on some models and Vida will confirm one way or another. Regardless, there's no reason to spend such a large amount of money for something that can be bought much cheaper for the same quality.
I cannot find a new/remanufactured Volvo 31259517, because the original has a 40mm transmission seal whereas the new parts have 55mm seal. Is it acceptable to delete the corteco transmission seal and fit metal to metal relying upon the diagonal grooves to keep it oil tight?
@@TWG420 In the UK, this is called a driveshaft and everyone around the world knows what the video is referring to. You're the first in tens of thousands of views to say different but ok.
@@sirobb yes, its been performing beautifully since the injector replacement, never run better than it is doing now, think I've done circa 2k on it since the replacement and it makes me smile every time I turn the key, cheers
@@andycapo9you Me and Glyn replaced it together. We did a leak back test first which confirmed an excessively leaking injector number 3 (?) and we replaced with a used injector from a breakers. The long cranking before starting problem was cured immediately.
HI Simon.. had both new axles put in by a very competent mechanic the other day. (1997 Honda Accord 2.2L Automatic) The driver side came out of the tranny and is leaking like crazy, a Valvoline oil change shop told me today. Can the shaft be tapped or hammered back in by only removing the outside axle nut? Thank you
No because the hammer blow is transferring excess force through the inner and outer cv joints and almost none of that force will reach where it's needed. There are no shortcuts. Remove the driveshaft, check the seal and recheck all work done.
Hi Simon - on installing the driver side driveshaft do you grease the spline that goes into the transmission. I pulled it out and it seems to have a lot of corrosion.
If the splines are thoroughly clean on the shaft and in the gearbox that should be enough. Surface corrosion isn't unusual. If the shaft has a circlip, a small amount of thick grease to keep the circlip centered will help with installation.
I have stumbled across this video on by mistake what I'm trying to do is remove the main drive shaft from a Kubota RTV 500 I'm wondering if I need to get into the gearbox any help would be appreciated
hi, friend. I have an xc90 163cv from 2004 and I wanted to ask you if removing the automatic transmission side causes oil to leak or does this model not leak oil? thank you
@CarlosLopez-jj6ks Both wheels will need to be off the ground throughout anyway so if you do one shaft at a time and angle the car up slightly more on the side you're working on, I'm sure you'll be fine.
@@Anonymous-mc4su Because if you leave it in, the weight and motion of the components you're moving in the area might snap the cable. Why would you risk that for 10 seconds and one bolt to eliminate the risk?
It just needs to look however it looked before removal and should locate itself with a positive clunk when installing. If it's too far out, reassembly will be almost impossible.
@@sirobb that's my main problem. I didn't see how it was in last. It was lashing it down with rain dropping in my face. My own fault really but the last one I tried smacking in with some pipe and destroyed it. So I have to attempt again today.😓
If the vehicle has only 12000km and I very carefully remove the drive shafts, can I use the same oil seals (if I reinsert the drive shafts) or must the seals be replaced regardless?
You don't have to change the seal if it's ok and you are careful but they are not expensive and I would recommend fitting new seals whilst you are doing the work.
If the seal is the exact correct size, all mating surfaces are clean and lightly greased and the seal is inserted straight and flush like in this video, provided you carefully insert the driveshaft so the seal isn't damaged, there's no reason why the seal will leak.
My gearbox was drained as I was replacing the oil anyway. You may not need to drain the oil if you tilt the car enough but I would recommend doing it on an empty gearbox.
@@sirobb I was thinking I might be able to tip it over enough to stop it coming out. Probably best option for me as you can't get to my drain plug unless you drop gearbox slightly as its not in its intended car lol
Hi and thanks so much for your videos. I have a strange chirping sound coming from the engine area of my D5... any ideas? I could post a video if that would help. Btw car runs perfect
Hi, the first obvious starting point is a failing alternator clutch pulley or one of the other auxiliary belt pulleys as a next guess. I have specific videos for the clutch pulley and auxiliary belt area in my Playlist called "Cars" so take a look there first. Good luck.
SiRobb, thanks so much for getting back to me. I will watch then try to find it... I will do a video and post it if I can’t resolve. Would you mind having a look for me. I love this car and want to keep it tip top. Cheers Nick
Hi Simon, thanks again for your help. On close inspection I think the chirping noise is coming for the area of the pulleys and is probably the clutch pulley...I managed to do a little video. Please give me your thoughts. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-LvqX6y-MQ0U.html Cheers Nick
@@sirobb information from the SKF website - These have either a right-hand twist for shafts that rotate clockwise, or a left-hand twist for shafts that rotate counter-clockwise as seen from the air side
@@p--n I used the Volvo main dealer software for my parts diagram and the part number is the same both sides. That's obviously for my exact car configuration though so yours *may* be different.
@@sirobb Ok, and do you know what would be the best alternative or the best option if the cv joint goes bad. What brand do you recomend and who makes them for Volvo.
@@sirobb It is finally done after about an hour on it. At some point I wanted to take the shaft out and compress manually the circlip to make it closer but couldn't take it out. Finally I used a kind stick of wood and shocked it in, it had to be very well aligned, and it worked. For the story, I went all around my town with the old circlip searching for a second one (which was broken inside the joint). At the end no-one had this kind of ring, and on my way back my old one fell in the ( tidy) car. I searched and searched but could not find it back so got a new one.
There's no fixed price unfortunately. Labour should be 1-2 hours at whatever their hourly rate is and a whole new shaft can be between £75 and several hundred pounds depending on quality and the type of car.
@@HawxAnimator There's some reshooting of shots. The video also does not contain everything that was filmed or every check that was carried out to make sure the job is done right. No one wants to watch that. 😊 2 years on since the video was made and all is still well.
Ok. I am at a loss what to do. My mechanic says it’s an inner cv joint but I have been to other two including Volvo and they all said it’s the same apart from one: he said it’s the differential inside the transmission. Both things are expensive but not sure which one is correct. I’m including two videos from my channel: a bigger picture and a close up: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Oh2HT6s4Ceg.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-aOxZVIoROi0.html Thanks 🙏
Great videos which have been invaluable. I’ve just swapped my front OS drive shaft on my 2005 XC70 cross country. The section of the old shaft that goes inside the auto gearbox is totally dry and has rust. I’ve not drained the gearbox and the oil level is okay. Looking through the hole where the shaft inserts looks dry too. I’m really confused as I was expecting it to be covered in gearbox oil. Any ideas/advice. Car drives okay. I have a photo of the old drive shaft in the link below. Thanks! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-QQ6DsNhktso.html
The corrosion at the end just looks like an extension of the corrosion on the main shaft that's worked its way along. Keep an eye on that as it looks pretty advanced.