A friend asked me if I could replace a relay in a circuit board from his dryer. The new board cost over $200. l sourced another relay from the internet for $14 and then told him it was worth a try.
Thanks for the video! Epic Z now running. Unbelievable how well the wire trick worked. Drying a second load now. Couldn't get reasonably priced board replacement. Will brag on this video more in a few months if it holds up 🤞
This is really cool! I have the same dryer and found that the motor relay burned as well. I dont have the skills to replace that, so I am replacing the control board with one from ebay
That is a very good question and I don't know. That's part of the reason I put that copper jumper wire in. I think the load is variable depending on how heavy the material that is being dried is. The owner of the dryer said his wife was washing heavy throw rugs and then putting them in the dryer and he thinks that was the cause.
The heater relay on a Samsung dryer u can hear it clicking on and off . The dryer only heats up very little. Everything else I replaced. Except for the control board. U can hear the relay kicking on and off.. do u think the control board is bad???
I didn't troubleshoot the issue with the relay that I replaced. I don't know what to tell you. Maybe there are other videos or postings on the internet to help you.
kenmore electric dryer he5t -error F01 code bought a new relay switch and cleaned up the board and re-soldered the new relay switch and put all back together, but it did not work? Just wondering not the best a soldering could this be the problem
My client gave me the relay to install. He got it be putting the numbers on the relay into a search and came up with a source. It was also very inexpensive to buy it that way.
I didn't do the troubleshooting on the relay. My friend looked up common problems with his machine on the net and came up with this. The new relay did click when he reinstalled the board.
@@supertrucker1356 They are soldered onto the board. I have this tool called a solder sucker. You heat up the solder with and soldering pencil and then suck up the solder with the suction tool. Look up solder sucker on the web.
I don't have that information. My client supplied the part. There will be a part number on your relay than you can do an internet search on. That will provide suppliers for another or an equivalent part. Good Luck!
@@repairsecrets My understanding is that potting is a form of resin that boards are dipped/sealed in to protect them from moisture/environmental exposure.
Im troubleshooting a relay that i think is bad on a pcb...i am trying to determine if the relay is not receiving the correct voltage/ground before i make my call that the relay is not working...i am getting 12 volts on one end of the coil and only 6 volts on the other....not sure if the other side should be ground voltage or it should be also 12 volts OR everything is normal.... Trying to rule out the possibility of the relay not receiving the correct power/ground as the problem before i think about the relay being faulty because obviously the relay cant be bad if it is not receiving the correct voltage in the first place
If it is a mechanical relay like the one in the video, you will usually feel it click when you energize the coil. You can check the coil resistance with an ohm meter. In general they will be around three to five ohms. Depending on the number of working contacts in the relay there will be two or three circuit paths for the relay to switch too. There will be a common contact which will be normally closed to one leg when the coil is not energized. The other contact will be closed only when the coil is energized. I've never checked for differences in voltage across a relay. The ohm meter tells a better story.
@Equipment Consulting Services, Inc. relay was bad...I jumped it and got no continuity at the contacts....swapped relays and new one works perfect except for after about an hour it started rattling sparking really bad...i found the problem....I have only 6v at the transistor side or the relay coil....when I measure across the relay it is 6v total....the transistor is most likely bad....the supply side is 12v so everything is good there...
@Equipment Consulting Services, Inc. I'm getting so frustrated...I tested transistor on board and it failed...then I took it off board and it passed...so transistor is not my problem....this .5v is my problem....that is too low to turn on the transistor fully....I really need to figure this out....what else could it be? Thermostat not sending a strong enough signal? Microcontroller? Sorry forgot to mention that...I am getting .5v at the transistor base...I should see .7 or even higher
@@macknumber9 I'm sorry that I can't answer your question on the transistor. I don't have the old board to be able to look at an suggest other possibilities. Let us know what you find if anything.
The relay apparently was a standard part. It is a lot smaller, runs at 120 volts AC and is soldered in place on a circuit board. I don't understand your point?
@@repairsecrets A relay is a moving part. Moving parts tend to break and need replacement. If they designed a socket for the relays to fit into, like they do for relays in automobile fuse boxes, then it would be a cinch to swap out a failed relay instead of having to solder it.
@@JoshuaRichards2010 Engineering design doesn't work that way anymore. The engineer has a couple of dozen catalogs in the book case behind him. He needs a component to do something and he doesn't have the manufacturing capability to make it so he picks up a catalog and looks for one supplied by someone else. It has to meet specifications and apparently for this use, this is what he finds. Automotive units aren't this small and solder is the accepted method of attaching to a circuit board. The big deal is that people shouldn't put huge loads like heavy coats and floor rugs in the dryer to pull so much current that it burns out the relay.
