Thanks for the tip about using heat shrink tubing to replace the steuerpimple. It worked like a charm on my 1249. Now if I could only get me pitch control to work properly...
The original "steurpimpel" for this model was made of a yellow translucent gum-rubber material that unfortunately dries up with age even if not installed into the machine. We had some in stock at the audio repair shop I worked for, but they dried out just sitting in a storage bin. I took a tip from something I read online and cut a short piece of the center insulator material from a piece of cable TV coaxial cable and fit that on to the metal lift pin in place of the steurpimple. This worked just fine. It is important to note that there is a somewhat conceptually similar rubber pimple device, actually a hard black rubber or soft plastic, that goes on the lift pin at the top of the cueing device and pushes up against the underside of a plastic paddle on the tone arm in order to do the lifting function. Those 2 pimple parts are not interchangeable! One of the frustrating things about working on Dual turntables is that not only do the exploded-diagrams leave a lot to be desired in terms of helping you easily identify the various parts in the complicated mechanisms, but if you compare the manuals for similar-appearing models in hopes of finding a better diagram or better explanation of the mechanisms' operation, identical parts will often be described by a different name or word, and may even have two different part numbers.
This is *exactly* what I needed to know. Worked like a charm, thank you very much! (Note: there was some old grease on the two copper spring blades under the control arm, I wiped clean with alcohol and put new grease there.)
I like to use 14 gauge wire sheathing. Snip a small piece, remove the copper wire inside, insert over the nub and hit it with a heat-gun for a couple seconds to secure in place. Trim as needed.
32:44: I just took an old lighted dial alarm clock, took everything off but the neon light and motor put it back in the case, plugged it in and instant strobe light ! Worked perfectly. Now I have the idea of finding some way to hook it up in the table bottom, run the neon tube up thru the front of the table between the base and figure out a way to mount it so it stays next to the strobe stamping on the platter. It would look stupid, but I'd be the only one that would see it. Lol. I think that would work fine.
That topic of car battery charging is exactly correct. My Chevy Volt also turns on the cooling when charging on a hot day. In addition when driving on a hot day, the battery system will use up to all the A/C capacity to keep the battery cool at the expense of the passengers. Better to keep the battery safe than ruin it and cost lots of $$$. We people can just sweat and stink. The young people don't remember that automobiles didn't have A/C in general until about 1970.
I don't know about the battery cooler using all the ac capacity. I had my 2012 in Arizona a few summers ago and it was about 122 outside and I was nice and cool inside. My comment was directed at those uneducated petrolheads that have no clue about eve's in general and write total bullshit stories that others that have been sniffing petrol fumes too long believe.
I have worked on many dozens of Duals. I hate them. They headshell design on this and some of the other models is particularly odious. The little plastic tabs that lock into place when you push the fiingerlift lever back into place tend to break, rendering the headshell useless. Also, the headshell contacts frequently turn black with tarnish and oxidation. Dried up lubrication and half-seized mechanisms in almost every area of the turntable are common.
The automatic position depending on speed is a good idea in theory. With that said, it is also a pain in the butt as I have 12" 45RPM records, and also a few 7" that run at 33 1/3RPM..... An extra lever still is good from my point of view.
Love your videos they're very interesting i work on electronics to i just ordered a vintage car stereo off eBay just waiting for it to come in they say it doesn't work I'll have to see when it comes in
That turntable looks well designed. Good fix. I've a Garrard SB86 MK2 that is mechanically err..'variable'. Underneath, it has about a dozen horrible circular bendy arms and levers that dictate pickup point, 7 inch and 12 inch drop point, and how it picks up and sets down. Don't know where to start to fix it.
regret trading my dual 1019 for a crappy gemini DJ amp. I had gotten a technics direct drive turntable and was so spoiled by it that I thought I wouldn't miss the dual. 3 years later, I have a realistic labs linear tracker for the main turntable and love it, although it will never be as collectable, cool and valuable as the dual.
Great video 12VoltVids! It will definitely help for my Dual 1218 restoration project. What I would like to know: - What kind of oil and grease did you use?
Are Dual tone arms interchangeable with some models? specifically I have the 1215s and the black plastic base (yolk?) cracked and broke in pieces, any chance it could be replaced with an other models tone arm? thank you so much for your help!
When I turn on the lever, the start of the tonearm does not reach the beginning of the plate. Also, when the stop lever is turned on, the tonearm does not fully return. Today I disassembled, lubricated, apparently violated the adjustments. Can you help? I can record a video of my breakdown and send it to you, thanks, respects Valery.
Gracias por el video,tengo un plato igual con la misma avería,funciona el motor pero el brazo no se mueve hacia el disco y he visto como lo has arreglado,intentaré hacer lo mismo haber si soy capaz de arreglarlo Muchas gracias
My Dual when you hit start the arm starts to go to record than stops if I put it on manually it plays okay when at end of record it goes back by it self any Idea what to lubricate thanks ..
Hi my 1019 after finishing the record the tone arm goes back but not going to rest, and then goes back to re start playing again. Any suggestions? Thanks.
hello i have a problem with my dual 1237a...while the record is playing i move the start/stop switch in to the stop position and nothing happens...it just keeps playing on all the way to the end and then it avto-stops...si this normal or can i do something to fix it?
Dave, if you ever wanted to make " Shorts " - you have two of them in this vid. The copyright infringement error and the charging of the electric car batteries cooling. Might get some views and get more people watching your vids. I know I have been binge watching and sent your channel to two friends.
There is always some asshole trying to steal your income, the utter cheek of these people just amazes me. Your videos are something you do when you have time, i know you are a working man so you will never hear me moaning about it. I like the heatshrink fix, cheap and easy :-D
Well I work 4 days a week. Compressed work week is great, but I work long days. 10 hour shifts. That leaves 3 days for shooting videos. I have stuff to work on, but it has been so bloody hot in the shop I have been sheltering in the house, riding the Harley or chilling in the pool. Of course this week I wasted a few hours filling disputes against these crooks.
The c-clip or e-clip is also known as the "Jesus" clip, as in "Jesus, where did that @#&^ thing take off to !?". By the way, if you remove the black plastic paddle, the part that it looks like it belongs on an oil pumping rig, be sure to lubricate the brass yoke underneath it, the lubrication often dries up and those parts will seize, preventing the paddle from swinging smoothly side to side. If it is seized up, you will probable have to use heat to help remove it. Typically, you can't just add lubrication and free it. Pull it off and remove the crusty dried up grease, then relube and reassemble.
Hi, I'm trying to fix my Dual 1237, which behaves completely erratic...Is there any way that I can contact you by email so we can discuss that ? Thank you very much. Louis
Hey 12voltvids I have a dual 1226 that sends a pop through my speakers once the tone arm has been set in its rest on the stop cycle. You have any thoughts on this? Is it the mute switch that you mention in this video?
Hi Dave. I have a tower fan in dire need of some TLC. Its motor sounds like it's yelling. I took note that it's a thermally protected motor, 120V 30W. It truthfully sounds like a dying cricket while under even a small load. Despite removing the screws and bending up the tabs, I can't seem to figure out how to open the motor, let alone how to get to the bearings. Any tips for an amateur? Thank you in advance.
@Orange OwL Not to sound like an idiot, but how do I coax the assembly away from the magnet without bending the casing to hell and back? I've got the tabs bent up but I hit a roadblock after that. Thanks in advance.
@@kylewantland6409 I'm pretty sure there's a RU-vid video on how to service your tower fan. Do a RU-vid search on tower fan servicing or something like that.
@@THOMMGB Sure thing. At this point I'm a bit desperate to get it going. The AC unit in my apartment is hilariously unreliable and I got no money to replace it. Again, I'll look into it and thank you.
I have 3 1237's and I restored the all to partly working condition. The stop function is the only one that doesn't work. None of them do. Everything else does, fine. It's not a big issue, but I would like them to be totally functional. I don't have a clue why they don't function at all.
Edit: I didn't find any bent of unusual parts being incorrect. The lever moves free but nothing happens. I would think there should be some kind of pressure on it like the start function. I've seen other videos with the same issue. I just gave up. I spend hours trying to find it. I'm no technician.
The biggest issue on all those German and British record changers is lubricant dries up. Be it oil or grease. Then moisture in the air sets up corrosion between the metal parts. You have to free up every stuck part and lubricated it. The strurpimple is also a major failure point. That's the little rubber tip on the arm lift pin which provides friction with the control arm. Once they are lubricated they work fairly well untill they don't. It's an ongoing maintainence point that resulted from German over engineering. Not saying they are bad record changers they aren't but they do require additional maintenance and they need to be run regularly. Throw a record on them weekly and they will run like a champ. Do what most people do, haul them out at Christmas to play bing Crosby on and you will be servicing them every year. The one i own i overhauled for my daughter. She listened to it but left it when she moved out. Sonny boy grabbed it and guess what needed service again as it was stuck. Freed it up and still working as he listens to modern garbage on it.
No I don't have a Tesla. That is one car you couldn't pay me to own. I know several people that made the mistake of buying one and they all regret it. Every last one has had many problems.
My 1225 from 73 is still working good, but I had to free up the area's that you've shown on a few of your videos. Probably the same characters, just using a different name, pulling the content crap.
Hey man I’ve been watching your videos trying to learn a lot about old cameras. I love filmmaking and editing and I recently came across these 2 old camcorders. I'm looking to start this new documentary project and I believe this super 8 camcorder will give me the exact effect I want. It turns on but I think there might be a ribbon issue because when I look thru the lens all I see is white static but I can still make out the play button in the top right when I eject a tape. Please let me know if this is something you can help me out with as no one within hours of driving knows anything about cameras.
