While watching your video, I assumed 500K subscribers. I was really surprised that you didnt have more. I think thats because you havent been doing this that long. Give it time. You are too clear and articulate in your presentation not to become a 3D printing leader. Thank you for going through this.
I'm blown away but such kind words, thank you. I know peoples' time is valuable so I'm just trying to get out as much info as I can without wasting any.
Voxelab should be paying you for all these excellent videos on the Aquila. They are must-have training videos for every Aquila owner. Thanks for the great training!!!
I’m going to send Voxelab a link to your video. They should do the right thing and send you a couple of Aquila’s! If you keep this up you’ll have over 100k subscribers in no time. Aquila is a very popular machine now!
Thank you very much for this video and many others on the Voxelab Aquila. I appreciate that you went through the whole process of removing the extruder and mounting the new one. I saw other videos and they skip over these details as they take it as "common knowledge" but for a novice is not common and seeing the whole process helps tremendously. You are my go to guy for anything related to 3d printing as you take the time to explain instead of just skipping over. I wish you success and hope to see many more of your videos
I appreciate your comment. It means a lot when people take the time to let me know how my videos are helping (or can be improved) and I am truly grateful for that. You're right though I try and show as much as I can, 3d printing is tough, and I don't take any level of viewer for granted . Thanks again!
Thank you for this video. I just purchased an all metal extruder from Amazon and was wondering how to install it. I happened across your channel and this is exactly what I needed. The slowed down step-by-step approach is exactly what people new to the hobby need.
Thanks again! My videos are long, and it can be a turn off, but they are specifically aimed at people new to 3d printers and also new to certain processes in 3d printing. It's so easy to skip some small steps, but to me those small steps can be a real life saver when trying to learn.
As someone that has used both, I don't like the red metal one (it has issues with tension and the gear on the arm can start to tear into the arm if you don't modify it like some others have said to do on RU-vid. Then my problem with the Bondtech knockoff was that after about a year the plastic gear broke free from the axle. (If you look at their newer all metal ones this is no longer the issue.) Good luck and thanks for the discussion.
I've heard that about the All Metal extruder , and the one that came stock on my CR10S is beginning to give me some weird binding when I depress the arm. I'm going to give updates in the lifetime of both these units so everyone can try and figure out what to expect. Thanks for watching, commenting, and helping with the discussion!
Yea, this is the first upgrade I tell most people to make. Simple(ish) installation and it makes a world of difference!!! Thanks for watching and I appreciate you leaving a comment !
Even though I'd just fitted one of these BMG clone extruders to my Ender 2 Pro I still watched this video, and found it to be really well made and presented with lots of useful information. The only thing I would say is that the volume when you speak is a lot quieter than in other parts of the video, but apart from that well done! Amazed you don't have more subscribers to be honest. Keep up the good work 🙂
Thank you so much! This is one of my earlier videos, and since then I have been exploring different mic and lighting setups, and I have gotten a lot better at editing. I appreciate the critique as well, because I can get so lost in the process that I forget about certain elements when it comes time to release a video, these comments act like a reminder in my brain, so thanks! I appreciate you taking the time to comment!!
Thank you so much! Never considered myself a teacher, but your comment really meant a lot too me! I appreciate the sub and I promise to keep creating content for newbies and veterans alike!
Wonderful!! So happy to hear that. This is one of those simple upgrades that can make such a drastic change for the better on your printer. I'm happy to share this and thankful you commented to let me know your experience! Thanks!
Great! The metal versions that are being produced now are way more likely to have the washer on the gear within the tensioner arm. That's a great thing because it will be better for you over the long term, and it's something to consider when purchasing.
Hey great video. I've just ordered a bmg style extruder and wanted to make sure I knew how to install. One minor correction. You refer to calibrating the extruder mm/s This should be corrected to steps/mm. Another thing to point out is that the fear ratio is 3:1 on bmg extruders. so a good rule of thumb is to 3x your existing e-steps before calibrating
Hey thanks for watching and for the corrections! I realized late into production that I was mispeaking but I'm glad you caught it. I hope it helped overall and good luck with the new extruder! If you're going from a stock single gear to a BMG style you're in for a good time 👍
Fairly good video for those who do not ever do anything mechanical. The problem is terminology. 1. Aquila (a-KEE-la) NOT (a-KEE-yah) Which would need a second l to make that sound 2. While grub screw is popular, it is a set screw 3. Those are not SHEATHS. They are BUSHINGS! 4. It is not a smooth gear. a gear, by definition, has teeth. What you have is a grooved bearing, used as an idler, meaning it is unpowered and freely spins based upon a material moving against its material contact surface.
Hey thanks for watching and taking the time to comment! I always say I am only one person and I need all the help I can get to make these videos work. So thank you for making the channel better! For the Aquila pronunciation, someone else mentioned it a while ago and since then I have be pronouncing it in the correct way -go watch more videos and check it out lol :) Similarly with the grub/set screw issue it was addressed in another video by a few other users. All the other points are a great addition and I will be sure to keep those in mind for any future releases!
Very thorough and clear with the explanations of detail which is more than any I'v seen so far including ones with bg music ;). This is invaluable as I'm looking for upgrades for an Aquila X2 and Flsun SR, 1st and 2nd printer and loving every minute of it!
Thanks for taking the time to not only watch but comment ! My entire goal is clear and concise explanation, a d sometimes my videos go long but Im just trying to be thorough, and I'm glad you appreciate that! Good luck with the upgrades, I am recording a dual Z axis install right now!
I like your detailed and to the point videos. Planning to get one soon. Please do a video on upgrading fans because I read from a lot of people that this thing is noisy stock.
You're welcome! I always try to strike a balance between showing all the steps and being concise. I don't think I've quite got being concise down, but I'm working on it lol!
@@PrintsLeo3D I love the channel, taught me so much, keep it up. I would watch you no matter what you were talking about. dont wanna mention names but some care more about music and showing off and skip over the how to while calling it a how to lol I digress. good content man.
Thanks I really appreciate the comment! I try and go over even the smallest of details because I know how tough this hobby can be, especially if you're just starting out. Thanks for watching and I promise to keep the content always informative.
This might help someone with an Aquila. I was having print failures after one hour on complex prints. I assumed that they were clogs as the filament was jamming at the extruder. Turns out that it was the extruder motor getting very hot and softening the PLA to the point that it wouldn't feed. Put a fan on the motor during the prints and problem solved. I'll need to check and if necessary lower the driver voltage to hopefully reduce the heat of the motor.
Wow that's crazy your motor is heating up so much it's transitioning your filament and even crazier you were able to find and fix the issue. I'd maybe look into getting a new motor as they definitely get hot but getting that hot is a concern. Thanks for the tips and the heads up to all!!
@@PrintsLeo3D This was a complex part and therefore had a bazillion retractions so I'm pretty sure that was a major contributor to the heat buildup. Thanks!
Hi, thanks for the kind words. This sounds like you might have been sent a defective unit. When the case of the extruder gets closed, there should be a large metal coupler that it closes around and secures pointing out towards the hot end. That coupler should be threaded on one side. This way you can screw the smaller pneumatic coupler into it, and then the bowden tube gets inserted into that. At 18:38 of this video, I show the threaded coupler I am talking about. If this coupler is not threaded for you and you would need to return your unit. If you want to email me and send some pictures, that might help - Printsleo3d@gmail.com
@@PrintsLeo3D After I commented I went back and looked at more photos and figured out I had the little plastic ring and had to press it into the metal collar. All up and running now, next to calibrate the esteps. Thanks again
FYI. The BMG Clone from Trianglelabs V2 does not require the stepper motor pin swap. Also, they dial right in at 410 steps. Did 5 of them and they all came up the same after the calibration. Super high quality for the price tag. Also, be sure to check out the video on Flow calibration. Super important.
Great video! Very detailed. I was gonna order one of these aluminum extruders, but reading through reviews on Amazon, I noticed all these have a major issue in common: the gear inside the lever rubs against the aluminum on the bottom side and eventually freezes up. People tried putting made-up washers underneath, but they get destroyed pretty fast as well. Have you noticed such issue with the one you bought? I'm talking about the red one, of course. Thanks!
Thanks for watching and to answer your question yes I have encountered the same exact issue with the all metal red extruder. I added an update in the description of the video but at this point I would no longer but and therefore can no longer recommend the all metal extruder for the exact reasons you outlined. I was printing with this extruder basically around the clock and after a little over a month I started to see some black powder near the extruder arm, that's when I first started to notice the wear that was accumulating due to the gear eating away at the arm itself. I had installed a second one of these metal extruders on a separate machine and still the same thing happened, I have since resorted to swapping them both out for the covered BMG clone style extruder. If the all metal extruder comes with a washer already installed then you should be good, as it's a fine extruder. However it's hard to tell from stock photos and item descriptions if that's true or not before you buy. At this point I would stay away!!
@@PrintsLeo3D Thanks for getting back to me. I've looked at dozens of these on Amazon. If not from the photos, at least the comments will indicate they are all the same - no washers. Most certainly they are all made by the same factory and sold by everyone. What a pity!
The problem with those clone CR-10 upgrade extruders is that the bolt that pivots the extruder arm does not have a shoulder long enough to properly interface with the needle bearings. The threads of the bolt ride up and down the needle bearing surface instead of in their direction of rotation. The extruder arm will hop up and down the bolt, slowly grinding away at the soft aluminum underneath. At a minimum, those clone extruders need a thin nylon washer between the arm and body, and a properly machined long-shoulder bolt, otherwise, they WILL fail. If you or someone you know has a small lathe, drawings are available with the correct bolt dimensions.
Thank you!! It takes me so long to make these I am glad people are finding value in them. It's been a while since my last upload but I promise I am in the middle of getting another video together as we speak!
The BMG clone can be great. However, of anyone's getting one the 2.0 version is less likely to have dropped gears inside which makes it harder for filament to feed.
I didn't know they were reworking these extruders, can't leave well enough alone I guess. I just bought a pair and both were ok, but I'll be on the lookout in the future! Thanks!
Hi. 1st of all, very good video, thank you! 2nd, please. show how to change e steps on aquila up to 407 with...terminal o smthng. Perhaps there is a link at your e steps calibration video that you mentioned, i will take a look now) . Have a good day!
Hi! In the video I use a free downloadable program called Pronterface to access the printer terminal to change our E-steps, because with the Stock firmware you can't go past 180(I believe?) through the lcd screen. If you update your firmware, to Alex's firmware(I show in my BL Touch video), then you can increase the esteps directly through the lcd screen without the need to use an outside program. I hope that answers your question.
Very nice and clear. Enjoy the video! Thank you so much. ? I have a Direct drive. I have lots of cleaning to do on every print. What can I do to do less cleaning? Strings effect is what I have
With direct drive you want to make sure you adjust your retraction settings, as they should be much lower now, maybe 1-2mm. Of course apart from the retraction you want to make sure you adjust the speed of retraction as well as printing a temperature tower to make sure you have the proper temperature settings for the given filament. Also to consider is the added weight on the gantry, so slowing down printing speed might help overall, I'm not sure it would have any effect on stringing though .
You know it's funny you asked this, I had read somewhere recently (I think I was in the Ender3 or Voxelab subreddit) where a user said this problem was "no longer an issue". However I haven't found that to be the case. I have been trying to find a manufacturer that clearly shows/states a bushing/washer cushioning this gear but I haven't been able to come up with one yet. I am going to keep looking, if you find anything though, the Channel would be very appreciative!
Can you describe the sound? Is it a single bang? A whirring noise? A grinding? Does it only happen when the printer is retracting? What happens if you try retracting filament manually from the extruder?
I've checked, nothing is clogged or stuck, everything is working manually, but at the time of retaction there is a loud sound. What's the cause of it all?
There is usually a motor noise during retraction , as it's a quick jerk in the opposite direction, if you aren't noticing any mal effects during prints then I think you should be good to go .
I'm suffering the same, i'm trying with retract acceleration from 1000 to 550 and it is good now, but i don't think that's the solution. Maybe cranking up the amps a bit to maintain the 1000mms^s or change retraction mm length in slicer (now 5 with ~25mm tube)
I"ve installed the same new extruder as in the video. After auto loading filament and filament exits nozzle, I click to print, but get "filament not detected". Any suggestions? Thanks, Don
It could be a few things. Do you have a filament runout sensor? Was it accidentally disconnected during the install or did you forget to run the filament thought it? I've done that one before lol Did you install new firmware with this extruder?
Some of the newer printers come with a pressed on gear which is hard to take off. If you have another printer and some time I have a RU-vid short that shows a printable solution to remove it. ru-vid.com413XDjjo3tE?feature=share Otherwise I have seen some people have success by using the claw of a hammer to grab the gear and then using another hammer to gentle remove it. I'm leery of that method because of the possible injury to yourself or the motor but people have shown a good deal of success with it.
I don't know why but on my Ender 3 v2 the BMG clone extruder I bought from AE doesn't sit the same way I have seen most people have it on the lead screw platform (with the exit filament hydraulic screw thing pointing inwards, in line with the x axis), it hits the lead screw and simply won't fit. I have fixed it on ther with the filament outlet pointing to the front of the printer and where the filament is inserted pointing backwards but not sure how this will go when the gantry moves right up the left side near the lead screw and the bowedn is folder over tightly.
If you want to send me a photo (printsleo3d@gmail.com) I'll take a look. There are right and left side bng clones nowadays. Possible maybe you got sent the mirror side
@@PrintsLeo3D Yes, I think that is exactly the problem, although the AE store where I got it only had one, I will send you a photo of what it looks like. thanks
I've never experienced anything like this. Is it possible the heard aren't lining up quite right ? There's a small bearing that is supposed to sit on top and on the bottom of the large plastic gear, I would double check those are both installed properly so the motion is free and clear.
The S2 unfortunately is proprietary, which means Voxelab has designed it in such a way that there is no alternative available. There are some alternate printhead mounting options but that is a larger modification than just the extruder.
You're absolutely right! I knew when I said it I mispoke (I think I do it a couple more times). Meant to go back and correct myself but this video just took so long I forgot to make the correction. Thanks for pointing that out
Awesome instructions. I just picked up the same extruder for when my stock one breaks. Just a quick question are you using the default firmware or the Alex firmware to change the amount of filament extrusion?
I'm still using the default firmware, so I have to go through the terminal with a computer and change the E-steps through g-code. I've heard Alex's firmware is leagues ahead of the stock firmware, I want to upgrade but I wanted to record a video on the process, so I'm waiting until I have the time . Hopefully should be in the upcoming weeks .
First, your videos are great. Your delivery and instruction is very clear and concise. I just installed the metal extruder and reset the E-Step value but now my prints are off. My layers are like loosely stacked strands of filament, not the solid pieces that were printing before I changed the extruder. I can't figure out what caused this abrupt change, any ideas?
First, thank you so much I appreciate the compliment. That problem definitely sounds like under extrusion. Did you make sure to save the new E step values with M500?
@@PrintsLeo3D I did store the configuration in settings if that is what you mean, I'm not sure what M500 is. Worth mentioning is that my E-steps are very high to reach the 100mm output, I have a value of 140.4 stored. After some testing, solid color PLA seems to print fine, but PETG and glitter PLA have the issue. When printing the test cube with solid PLA all sides are equal and measuring 0.8
I believe my E-steps were similar with the All-Metal Extruder, something like 138 maybe(?). When I said M500 I was just referring to the G-code command you would enter if you were changing your esteps through some outside software like Pronterface. That's interesting that it's only happening with certain filaments. Is it possible you have the temperatures too low for the PETG and the glitter PLA? Also recently I have read of people having issues with the metal extruder where the yellow spring tension is too high on the arm and it's crushing the filament, which is causing the filament to squish slightly and go from round to slightly oval which is causing some jamming issues in the PTFE tubing. Not sure if that's leading to any of your troubles. Had you calibrated e-steps on your stock extruder before replacing it?
@PrintsLeo3D After printing a few more test cubes on different filaments, I saw color from 2 filaments back (black PETG) bleed in near the top of a orange TPU cube. This made me think it must be a partial blockage in the hot end. I swapped out the hot end with another and all was well again. PLA @ 210 had no problems getting past the partial obstruction, but it led to under extrusion for PETG @ 240. I find it odd that PLA still printed so well, even a 13 hour wood PLA print, but I learned something... so at least there's that. Thanks for the assistance and the quality content you put out.
With printing I'm often reminded to expect the unexpected lol. I have to say though good work for putting all the clues together and diagnosing the issue, it definitely helps down the road as more problems spring up, you remember what symptoms you've had in the past and can help in the future. Thanks for the follow up post, always good to hear a happy ending lol!
Oh no, those are the sort of issues that can turn an easy swap into a headache. Well good luck, better to get to it on your time then have had to deal with this all of a sudden if the extruder arm snapped or something.
@@PrintsLeo3D Yeah it was a real bummer while setting up. I looked up ways to remove small stripped hex bolts and I found a video of a guy using JBWeld which basically an epoxy and hardener mix. It seems to work for many so I'll give that a try.
@@PrintsLeo3D It didnt not work. Tried multiple times and had to wait 24 hours for it to harden. Anyways it was good learning experience to build a 3D printer and get some good prints. I decided to return it to amazon and get that Juyo 8 plus you reviewed. Do you think it would be better to get that over an X2 replacement?
They're definitely different printers but I think they both have their pros. The Aquila, is your standard build volume, has a nice lcd display, and has a steadily growing community that can help when things go wrong. The Jayo is a big build volume printer, and it's physical footprint is much larger because of that, so if space is an issue it might not be the best idea. The S8 doesn't have the fancy lcd display and it's community is much smaller, although just as eager and willing to help. If it's a first time printer I think I like the X2 (actually just the stock Aquila) because the build volume is smaller and tweaks are more manageable. That being said I honestly have not been able to say a bad thing about my Jayo S8 Plus, it's an absolute workhorse. I just installed a dual gear extruder , all metal hot end , BL Touch, and PEI sheet on mine and it's printing far far out of it's league right now. I will be making videos on each when I install them on my second Jayo. The only downside to the Jayo, if this is your first printer, is the big build surface and the problems that you might face trying to level such a large surface. In the end, they can both print exceptionally well and you can always come back to this channel for any help !
This is a project I have considered for a bit. I think I'm going to add it to the short list of upcoming videos! Thanks again for adding to tbe conversation.
Thank you for another very useful lesson! Tell me, is it possible to change the direction of rotation of the motor in Alex's firmware? Or do I have to re-solder the wires?
Thanks for saying that! I believe you're able to change it within the firmware, probably something like E direction -1 instead of 1. I'll check it out when I have access to my laptop and get back to you. If that doesn't work you can just remove and swap the wires like I showed in this video, no soldering needed!
If you wanted to invert the Extruder direction through the firmware it looks like you can search [ #define INVERT_E0_DIR false ] and switch false to true, or vice-versa, and that should reverse the direction of your extruder motor! If you're looking to do something like this and don't know how to go about compiling it let me know and I can see what I can do. Drop me a line through my discord: discord.gg/jTeTGUWf
my "bmg extruder" comes with a plastic and a metal variant gear that connects to the filament gears and the extruder motor gear. The biggest gear. Which should I use? I would assume the plastic one is better because it would cause less wear and tear on the other gears, but I would like your input.
Wow that's a pretty neat option to have, I've never seen that. I would say the metal gear seems like the better option for long term durability, however, having used these extruders for as long as I have I can say I haven't had any issues yet with wear on the plastic gears. The plastic one should be lighter and be better at higher extrusion/retraction speeds. So I'd say start with the plastic one, you'll likely never have to change over. If anything goes wrong you still have the metal gear to fall back on.
Yes I do, I am going to add this post to the description. These extruders constantly go in and out of stock so you might not be able to get the exact brand I purchased. All Metal extruder: This was a no name brand (N/A)extruder www.amazon.com/Extruder-Aluminum-Replacement-Creality-Printers/dp/B08KP1PC7N/ref=sr_1_23?dchild=1&keywords=dual+gear+extruder&qid=1624997506&sr=8-23 Plastic encased: At the time of this post the brand I bought (Winsinn) is out of stock. smile.amazon.com/dp/B08YY4YRGJ/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_48G97YNNSH8DRXNB8A90?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The fan shroud I'm using is a modified version of The Satsana, it has been raised 2mm higher to better clear the Aquila bed, this is the link (remix by THESUBARUJUNKIE): cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/satsana-fan-shroud-for-voxelab-aquila The fan shroud that THESUBARUJUNKIE modified from can be found here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4792632
Yes, you can print TPU even with a bowden setup, so long as you are using an enclosed extruder such as the BMG clone (and as it appeared in the video the all metal red one which really shocked me) you should have no problem. The problem with TPU is that it's so flexible it will wind itself out of the extruder during retraction, and because on a Bowden setup our retraction settings are usually 4-6mm that length of retraction is likely going to knot up the TPU, which is why most Bowden setups cannot handle TPU. When you enclose the extruder however the TPU doesn't have the opportunity to move out of the extruder and printing it should be fine. The direct drive extruders have a very small retraction distance, usually somewhere around 1mm, so TPU isn't going to wind itself out of the extruder, which is why they are capable of printing TPU without any modifcation.
I don't own an X2 so I can't say for absolute certain, but it looks like from images I've seen that the dual gear extruders will for the X2. The only problem that may arise is if the new extruder sits a little higher or lower than the stock extruder which could give some filament path issue with the runout detector. I had this issue when I equipped my Jayo S8 Plus with a dual gear extruder, I simply unscrewed the filament runout sensor from the machine and let it 'float' above where it sat while connected to the filament.
Debra, unfortunately the S2 is not readily capable of getting a dual gear extruder mounted to it. Due to the way Voxelab design the hot end of the S2 there's really not many (if any) off the shelf choice to replace the stock extruder. It's an unfortunate limiting factor of that printer.
The yellow spring is very hard, that's the appeal of those springs, the tension is way more than the original. However it shouldn't be so hard that once it's installed the tensioner arm won't let any filament feed. So yes, its supposed to feel nice an stiff, but it shouldn't be choking off the filament. Are you able to feed filament through still?
I installed a transparent bmg clone on the 3v2 ender as in your video without twisting the wires on the motor because the direction of the filament is not reversed so I didn't swap the wires is that normal?
Yes, that's absolutely normal! I only added the wire swapping section for the few instances where people would need that, but normally you should not need to do any wiring work.
Hey! To be honest my retraction settings really vary based on my machines. My standard Aquila settings with all stock equipment (except for the bmg extruder of course) was something like a 5-6mm retraction distance and 25-40mm retraction speed. A lot of my printers have all metal hot ends which require a lower retraction distance, between 2-3mm. Are you running the stock hot end still ?
@@PrintsLeo3D yes a completely stock hotend,just put the BMG back where the original was mounted as I had printed a direct drive bracket and fitted it with a pancake stepper motor but it caused nothing but problems down the far right side of the bed,too much weight on the x gantry and I don't have dual Z rods
If you have a stock setup I think starting somewhere around 5.5 retraction distance and 25mm/s speed is a great base. Try a few retraction tests after that and you can start to fine tune it. That's too bad about the direct drive unit, the weight can certainly be an issue for some printers. I just purchased a Frog Extruder from Haldis and installed it on my Ender 3 V2 and it's been performing very nicely so far. Very low weight and the pancake stepper motor. I'm going to try and compile everything into a video at some point.
The first thing I would look for is if the gears are lined up properly. On the drive gears there's a knurled portion that is meant to make contact with the filament and pull it. If the gears are not aligned properly(too high or too low) the filament could not be sitting properly within that groove.(this is really only an issue for the all metal extruder). The next culprit can be the strength of the tension arm. Both the extruders have a spring and screw that, as it tightens, applies tension to the filament for grip. If these tensions springs are tightened too much they will begin to bite deep into the filament and shred it. Just loosen the tension on these springs, you really only need a minimal amount of tension for good grip.
@@PrintsLeo3D thanks I will check it out. 😊 I was wondering if I should just go ahead and make an upgrade to the dual gear ⚙ extruder while I am at it.
There was supposed to be a card there to link to another video where I walk through the steps to accessing the terminal. Thanks for letting me know because the link wasn't there. I didn't want to bog down this video any further with this walkthrough so I figured linking another video where I explain it was easier. You can find that information at 3:50 of this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-vCQWx4MBjjY.html If you have any other questions please let me know or message me on Discord discord.gg/uBdsQbvj
@@PrintsLeo3D Note for other people in this same boat: I found that upgrading to the most recent Marlin firmware you no longer need this command - it lets you change your e-steps to 400+ from the LCD screen
I'm not sure because I haven't tried it, but I have seen people heat the gear up with a torch and then pull it off. I just picked up two more ender 3s and they all have the pressed in gear which is really upsetting.
@@PrintsLeo3D I ended up giving it some WD-40, clamping it with pliers and then tapping it repeated with the back of a screwdriver. We'll see in a bit if I busted the motor😂
Definitely let me know how it works out because getting these motors with a pressed on bearing is a bummer, and would love to hear a way to rectify it that works!
@@PrintsLeo3D Success! Works better than new with the dual gear extruder. No idea if it's only because I got lucky, though. Then again, even if I did destroy the motor, they're around $30, so it's not the end of the world. Thanks!
From what I can being sold on Amazon metal extruders, the grinding your talking about must be the smooth passive guiding gear. So either you print out a stronger version (thingiverse) or buy the plastic extruder as it appears to be the winner in this shoot out?
The metal extruders I was referring to our the All-Metal Dual Geared extruder, which has a second gear instead of the smooth passive gear. The all metal single geared extruder (equipped with a smooth passive gear) doesn't have the grinding issue thankfully. So if you're going dual geared I'd recommend the BMG enclosed style extruder just as you suggested!
I'm not too sure what you mean. I have seen someone people reverse the direction the extruder faces, but I believe I have it oriented correctly. Let me know !
@@PrintsLeo3D Hello again, I just got my Anycubic Vyper which has the same BMG clone. I think it is facing the other way around. Maybe I did not see it correct in your video. Link to Picture: www.google.de/search?q=anycubic+vyper+extrudrer&hl=de&authuser=0&tbm=isch&source=hp&biw=1718&bih=1226&ei=jObhYMLcFtWKhbIPq5-CiAU&oq=anycubic+vyper+extrudrer&gs_lcp=CgNpbWcQAzoCCAA6CAgAELEDEIMBOgUIABCxAzoECAAQHjoGCAAQCBAeOgQIABAYOgYIABAKEBhQ0xVY4WFgymRoAXAAeACAAT2IAaoIkgECMjGYAQCgAQGqAQtnd3Mtd2l6LWltZ7ABAA&sclient=img&ved=0ahUKEwjC0o3B78nxAhVVRUEAHauPAFEQ4dUDCAc&uact=5#imgrc=rvRN1RMboQ5QNM
@@PrintsLeo3D now I did a bit of googling. Seems to be OK the way you did it. Maybe the on of the Anycubic is a bit different. Works great! So no problem with your video. Please don't mind. Have a nice day. Frank
First off congrats on purchasing the Anycubic Vyper, it looks like a really great machine. I just looked up the design in that printer and you're definitely right the Vyper's extruder is flipped in orientation. It's weird to see it sitting in that fashion but I'm sure it was an engineering change on Anycubic's part. Thank you for not only asking a question but for following it up twice, and even proving the answer! Much much appreciated!
@@PrintsLeo3D Ok 😂 I bought 4 of the BMG dual gear extruders for my cr10’s and I thought I got ripped big time but thanks to your “complete” run down I know that my E-steps have to be much much bigger. I have the all metal one on my cr10 mini and I never thought it’d be that much of a difference. I’ll give it another go. that alone earned a subscriber thanks
I'm not sure if these extruders would fit every direct drive kit available , but I know there are some out there that are specifically made for these BMG clone style extruders. www.thingiverse.com/thing:4851527 Hope this helps !
Thanks! Yea this filament printed out really really nice and it was wound perfectly. It's FilaCube Maroon, got it off Amazon. My first time trying filament from that company but won't be my last. smile.amazon.com/FilaCube-Generation-Printer-Filaments-AggieMaroon/dp/B07KBF6ZYM/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=maroon+pla&qid=1628430927&sr=8-4
When I first got this filament it was labeled PLA2 , which made me think it was reinforced, like PLA+.I used it as a shroud and had no problems, later I found out it isn't reinforced but still served me well. My bed doesn't go higher than 60c so I haven't noticed any problems. I used to use PETG, which worked great, then I tried PLA+.
how did you get on long term with this? I got the same but the dual gears actually gripped the filiment worse lots more slippage I even tried another stonger spring
So far I've got 2 of the BMG clone(covered style) Extruders and the one all metal extruder and they have all worked phenomenally for me. I've barely had any issues, and they're all actually printing very very consistently in both PLA and TPU. I have heard from people that they've not been as lucky as me though and have ran into some issues. I have heard of people with the all metal one running into problems with their tension springs. I just ordered another BMG style dual gear extruder last night for my Jayo S8 Plus because I've been so impressed by the other ones.
I have been looking for this video and I just found, thank you for this great video! Here is a problem I am having currently I have a Creality CR 6 se and it comes with one gear extruder. I am printing lithophane which lasts up to 60 hours and after 12 -14 hours the nozzle gets stuck and the printer does not print properly so I noticed that the problem occurs because of the extruder. So, I want to change the extruder with one of them that you showed. But what I am thinking is If I have aluminum extruder will it soften the filament because of step motor`s heat ? Will it be able to operate long printing ? And my printer has filament sensor before the extruder If I have the BMG extruder will i have to adjust the location of the sensor and will I have another problem during long prints ? Which one do you suggest for me to buy ? Thank you !!
First thanks for the comment and for watching the video. Now I'm not too familiar with the CR6 se, so I did some googling and I see it has a non standard extruder stock. So you should make sure that these are a drop in replacement for that. I would first recommend against buying the aluminum dual gear extruder, not because of the heat transfer, but because the majority of those extruders do not come equipped with a bearing on the second gear. Without that bearing the second gear will eat into the extruder arm, causing metal shavings to collect around the gear. After enough of this the extruder will stop working properly, so at this time I can't recommend the all metal version. I love the bmg clone (encased) style extruder. Now again I'm not familiar with the 6se setup so I don't know if it can fit with a filament runout detector. I know on my Jayo S8 I had to unscrew the filament runout detector to fit the BMG clone. I never bothered reconnecting so it's now just hanging free, sort of suspended in air, by the filament entering it. Still works just fine and is not in danger of breaking. I'm not sure if this is something you can do with the 6se. I'll do a little more research and get back to you with a more educated response, I just didn't want to leave your message unanswered for too long and have you think I didn't see it.
After a little searching I was able to find an install video for the stock CR 6 se extruder. Now again I don't own this unit not have I ever seen one in person so I can't say for certain, but I can give an educated guess based on the video I saw. You should have no problem installing a BMG clone style extruder onto this printer. It looks to be the same frame and stepper motor setup as most other Ender style machines. One thing I couldn't say for sure is the space you would have for the filament runout detector. I would again guess that you would need to remove the sensor from the frame (by removing the two screws in it) and just leave it 'free hang' sort of suspended by the filament that is running through it. Not the most elegant or cleanest solution, but if you know someone with a 3D printer I am sure they would be able to create some sort of mount for you ;) lol So based on everything I have seen I would say go for a BMG clone as long as your ok with the likelihood that the filament sensor is going to be hanging off of your machine (but still operable).
Yes!! You're absolutely right and thank you for calling me out on it! This was during a long take and I knew I had said something wrong and I meant to clean it up during the editing process and just dropped the ball on it. I am going to add a correction in the description of the video now with your time stamp!
Yes, definitely! Anytime you replace anything with the extruder it's always a good idea to calibrate them so you know you're starting at a good base. Thanks for watching and thanks for starting a discussion !
@@PrintsLeo3D thanks for your reply, I'm looking at one to replace the single extruder on my ET5X , I see there is a left and right handed version...I assume the left should be the correct one for a Et5x? Thanks
I don't own an Anet ET5X so I can't talk intelligently on the subject, but from the pictures I saw online that featured that printer, it looks like you would need the mirrored version of the Dual Gear Extruder that I showed in the video. Again, I don't own one so I can't say for sure.
Most flexibles require higher temp, so you definitely want to make sure you adjust accordingly. Did you buy the covered style extruder or the all metal?
@@PrintsLeo3D the covered style. I tried tightening the knob to manually load the filament and that worked and it didn't clog. im having a problem now where mid print it will stop extruding and my nozzle will get clogged any ideas? doing 220 nozzle and 60 bed with flexible tpu. also any tips on reducing stringing with these filament?
I know the stock hot end gets a lot of negative press for how it's built, it's possible it could be contributing to both problems. If that's the case you could try and All Metal Hot end, reduces a lot of head aches. Have you tried a temperature tower? I was surprised my Aquila printed TPU at 208(roundabouts) where my Enders printed the same TPU at 228. I was having issue until I did the tower and was very surprised. Hope some of this works
@@PrintsLeo3D it turns out that the extruder just gets clogged not what i said before. i don't know what you did to yours-i bought the same thing and the filament gets clogged on the side of the screw anyways. screw is on very tight, just doesn't work. any ideas?
I'm not too sure, I know people results have been hit or miss with these. Did you make sure to bottom out the Bowden tube entering the extruder as well as the one on the hot end side. There's a small gap between where the first feeder Bowden tube ends and the toothed gears begins, if that gap is large enough TPU could presumably get caught in it.
Thanks for watching and for questioning the findings. Are you proposing that a single geared extruder is 'better' than any one of these dual gear extruders? How do you think the differences affect the abilities of these extruders ?
@@PrintsLeo3D It´s a little bit difficult to explain that here but let me try anyway, beware English is my 3rd language so feel free to point out any mistakes on my part. 1st gen. extruders --> simple teeth on hub gear pushing the filament one sided with an idler on the opposite site. No gear ratio. This was the first and easy solution for the problem, however no gear ratio means too little push force. Think 1st Ender 3 design. 2nd gen --> gear ratio of typically 3:1 with a small gear. Think Titan extruder from E3D. This is already a great solution but of course can be done better. It´s cheap, small, light. Small part count and has a gear ratio so the push force is significantly higher. 3rd gen --> dual gear and here is where the problem starts. The first gear drives the filament and has to mesh with a 2nd gear which also drives the filament. Problem is, this typical idler wheel turned 2nd gear has to mesh with the drive gear AND be adjustable to diffent types of filament which is impossible. You can either be adjustable or you can mesh wish the drive gear perfectly but never both at the same time. Thus weird Z lines on almost all printers with dual geared extruders. Now take a look at the OMG V2 extruder. This extruder has basically solved all those issues (it has other disadvanatages though) A little lengthy explanation but I tried to cut it as short as I could. I am also a mechanical engineer so feel free to ask anything.
Someone else corrected me on that as well. I hadn't heard anyone say it yet so I wasn't too sure. Thanks for the clarification! I'm recording a video right now and doing my best to refer to it properly.
Hi Leo, thanks again for your video. I just replaced the stock extruder on my Aquilla X2. I'm not sure if it was a quality issue or it was by design, but my screw at 20:04 seems to be metric, instead of Imperial. Out of all my Allen keys, only one could work which I'm pretty sure it's metric. All the rest are just slightly smaller than the hexagon. Similar story to the one at 21:05. X2 has two screws here, and I had to use the metric one to remove one of them. Hopefully no one else encountered this problem. Now, for the new extruder, it makes something like a squeezing noise when feeding. imgur.com/a/eShUjm4 See the video (remember to turn on audio). The moving arm of my extruder does come with a washer (and the two spare ones might be the replacements... I don't know. Couldn't find a place to use the washers otherwise.) i.imgur.com/9ml6gRZ.jpg So it should not be the infamous problem that the arm grinds itself. In your opinion, is it related to e-step setting, greasing or alignment? I'm already using a value much lower than the manufacturer recommended (115 vs 139). 139 will over-extrude, so I get thicker prints than I design. 115 looks good. I will try to lower the e-step to default to check if the noise is still there.
First of all I am glad your all metal extruder comes with the proper washer, glad to see it won't grind itself into dust. I have to assume those extra washers are meant for the arm with the second gear in it, as my extruder arm was not equipped with a washer and I didn't receive any as extras. As for the noise, I've never encountered that sound before and it's sort of hard to tell where it's coming from. My first recommendation would be to remove the filament and try running the same print without any filament installed. This way you can get an idea if it has to do with filament alignment/path or it's something internal/mechanical. If it still happening without filament present it may also be easier to locate the source. To me it sounds like the filament might be grinding itself on the inner teeth of one of the pneumatic couplers. Are the pneumatic couplers on the proper sides? I think the larger one was on the hot end side for me (probably shouldn't matter either way though). I have since replaced my two All Metal dual gear extruders, and I can't remember what I had my e-steps calibrated to, but I believe it was somewhere around yours (maybe 118?). If those e-step numbers are feeding properly for you I wouldn't bother trying to change it, as your print quality will suffer. Let me know if you make any progress with that noise.
@@PrintsLeo3D So I think the problem was that the gear on the moving arm is a little bit low. I slapped one of the extra washers between the arm and base. The problem seems to be solved (for now). I will report back some time later! Thanks for your help.
@@PrintsLeo3D Looks like I somehow overwrote my previous comment. Your suggestion was very helpful. In short, there is no noise without filament, and manually pushing the filament causes similar noise, so I went to check the height of the gear.
Awesome I'm glad. A few companies did the right thing and went back and updated their designs (I believe RedRex is one such company) I'm happy to here you weren't affected. Thanks for watching, and commenting, and as always... keep on printing!
