Skip to 3:58 to hear sound clip! Little install / sound clip of an eBay knock off SC Project exhaust. Had to do some minor modifications, but it sounds great.
Make sure you have it remapped. Another little trick is to let it idle from cold for 15mins without touching the throttle. That’ll help - but a full remap is required with such a big change in airflow.
Ehh, bottom end is a bit boggy. Removing back pressure from the exhaust shifts power to the top end. It's still a super torque-y bike though. Throttle response is normal.
@@ConnorsCorner1 Thanks for the reply. I ordered the same mid pipe as you but different silencer. Hope it all fits like yours. The low end bog is ok, I keep the revs above 5.5k almost all the time. Can't wait to get mine.
Hiya, I’m thinking of getting this cafe racer. Some say on the web the 2018 model gives off lots of heat. Do you have this issue? If so, where is the heat coming from?
No power commander or anything. I think its pretty safe, but the entire cat is removed, so a tune would be best. People on the forums recommend a booster plug, which tricks the ECU into using more fuel. I haven't had any problems though.
I used a wire wheel on my drill and “sanded” it off. The finish was different in that area that the rest, so I put that facing the swingarm so it wasn’t visible
I always wear plugs. The wind noise alone is enough to warrant ear protection. I don't wear actual plugs though, I wear Musicians Ear Plugs which have a filter in them to quiet down the outside, while not completely blocking all the sound. Super useful because you can still hear other cars, horns, sirens, etc, but your ears won't be ringing after a ride.
where you get the part for the license plate under the seat can you send me the link and see I can get same one , by the way nice exhaust nice sound ....
I designed and 3D print them. Link is below. rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575378759&campid=5338273189&customid=&icep_item=153895758394&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg&toolid=11111
@@ConnorsCorner1 oh is that you wow what a coincidence lol I saw last week that one so you recommend that how they work do I have to open new hole or how ?
@@AnewdySanchez It uses factory bolts, no cutting plastic or drilling or splicing wires, nothing. Just remove the stock plate mount, and bolt mine on. Easy. Shouldn't take more than an hour.
nice and cheap upgrade. I just got my café racer and thinking of the same upgrade, there are few list in the e-bay but it's only the end canister, can you give me the link of the e-bay post? thanks.
Sounds great, I'm considering doing the same upgrade for my bike. may i know what are the exact measurements that you grinded off to fit the other end of the exhaust? Thanks!
Yep you lose low end hp/torque opening up the exhaust. Back in the 70's & 80's, with Kerker full exhaust's, had the choice of low, mid, high, competition baffles. The low was the longest and produced the most back pressure, which produced more low end hp/torque. I always went with the mid, best of both worlds, better drive out of a corner. As it produced more hp/torque in your midrange & bottom of your peak powerband range. In other words if your peak powerband was 8-10k. It would have more at 8k and then drop a bit at 10k. High end baffle would give a little less at 8k but best at 10k. Depends on what you are looking for. If you only do straight line, high would be best. Want best drive from corner to corner, mid was best. Low was best for basic city riding, as it produced a better low end for stop & go traffic. Modern exhaust's seem to have done away with the old way. The do not call them baffles any longer. Now they have DB-Killers. Does not stop you from modifying & producing the amount of back pressure that would be bests for your intended use. Valves have been used for many years, on 2 strokes & 4 strokes. Closed to produce better low end, then opens up for better top end. Boat racing with 2 strokes used to use a sliding pipe to shorten & lengthen to change pressure wave. To produce more midrange in the corners where midrange was needed most, then change pressure wave for the straightway scream on the pipe at redline to the next turn. Seems like a lot of the old art of tuning has been lost, no need to get the jetting correct on the carbs to match with the pipe, etc. Due to all the computerized stuff now.
