I've seen so many videos that just say what they're gonna do, show the engine before and then show it done, SOMETIMES they show a few things they take off or do a cut and tell you where they fkt up. Your "bolt by bolt" videos are out-freakin-standing. It's what people are looking for (IMO) when they're diggin' for these videos. Thanks Troop.
Lmao I know right. You see a video labeled exactly what your looking for and there going on about there personal life story for social media followers.
had my turbo clamp break, didn't do any damage to my turbo thank goodness, still having it rebuilt. I took it to my diesel performance place they wanted 3000.00 to replace turbo, i brought it back home, took me 6 hours just to get off all the heat shields, I have a 7.5 lmm 3500hd dually I had the performance shop delete my egr.(blocker plate). and put a tune in about a year ago. well anyhow I got the turbo out, at the shop getting rebuilt 500.00 ordered my billet turbo wheel, will be here monday. also ordered the complete wcfab pipe kit, i figured i saved 2500 doing it myself so i put the money to the kit. cant wait to get it. I told them you were the one that turned me on to them as i watch all your videos very helpful. Keep up the great vids, and next year when we roll on thru to Lakeport, Mi for our vacation maybe we can grab a coffee at a truck stop and ill show off my rig....:). again thank you for the videos helped me out alot. p.s. I hope wcfab gives you a new free pipe for your drivers side. tell them Jeff said you deserve it for all your hard work..
I ‘m a diesel mechanic, and I really do enjoy your videos. Your camera work is awesome. You are very thorough as well. I have a 2006 LBZ that I am going to do this on, so this helped me out a bunch. Thank you. One suggestion, and I am sure someone else in the comments told you too, but always replace o-rings, and gaskets with new. It’s just not worth the headache of getting it all put together, and something leaks because of reusing old shit. When you are installing o-rings use Sil-Glide. It’s a silicone based o-ring lubricant. It really helps to keep from tearing the o-ring. It’s good stuff. Thank you again for all the information you provide.
Thanks you man for taking the time to show exactly how everything should be taken off and installed. I love seeing videos like these. Before I would have never tackled the EGR delete, but after watching video man I believe I will tackle it! I just ordered the same setup from WC Fab. Thanks man and also Thank You for your service brother
i just bought my lbz last week and it had a boost leak when i bought it. i made a boost leak tester myself and tracked the leak down to the y-bridge. the pipe that connects the y-bridge to the cold side pipe had popped out. same exact issue you had actually. your videos help so much man. thank you!
Quick question I bought both and Egr delete kit and the same y bridge in this video before my Egr delete kit get here do I even need it because the red elbow pipe replaced the blue one
Thank you for making this. My lbz pass. side gasket on the Y bridge failed(shortly after heater core line drenched hot engine) Using this as a guide to remove mine now to replace the gaskets. I greatly appreciate it man.
Rtv is fine, I'm just saying with old gaskets or seals there could be hair line fractures in it that u can't see, that's y it's normally best to replace with new ones.
@@NextLevelTruth Yeah there are I think 3 or 4 bolts that hold down the turbo. Loosen then enough so you can move the turbo a bit. Search for turbo install for the bolts I'm talking about.
1st off thanks for your service! Appreciate the the detail on install, I have an LLY being upgraded with WCFab Y-bridge kit and piping along with intake! Love all of videos much needed DIY info!👍
I’m a new subscriber. I own a 2007 LBZ dually and I’m currently in school for diesel tech. I really like your videos man almost bought one of the evergreen EGR deletes until i watched this. Step by step process is great enjoy watching these.
Well don’t buy a WC either! It’s over priced for what you get! Not to mention the route it takes directly over the alternator 😂🙈. What were they thinking!
When I replaced the CP3 on my truck I replaced the crossover bridge too because it was see better days. I replaced the it with the exact bridge you have and it’s great
Just another tip after I tackled this recently. A 1/4” flex extension and 1/4”10mm is easier to gain access underneath the turbo mouth and in front of the hard coolant line. With a 3/8 system I couldn’t get access to the nut because of the coolant line. My socket couldn’t fit .
I wish I had seen your video before I did my egr delete on my lly! Every step you described I was shaking my head yes to. Then when you used the flex head to get the lower rear nuts loose I yelled genius! The egr deletes when I did mine reused that faulty gm y bridge so I didn’t change it but now I will! Thanks!
This is really going to help me as I bought a 06 with one head removed and everything off the top! I will be rebuilding the engine and will not be putting things back to stock! A new Y bridge and EGR delete will be in the picture !
you the best mr your videos you share we us are the only professional and educational yo give me the security to do it my self we to much confidence thank you very much for your knowledge
Really well made video, I'm not mechanically inclined in the slightest and I want to change that and you've inspired me and provided a lot of learning material I appreciate what you're doing
I just did the egr delete and pvc rerouting and wcfab y bridge but now I have a low coolant level light on my dash . I'm not sure why I can use some help , thank you , you have done an awesome job
When doing the EGR delete, is a retune required? I have no tuning equipment and I don't know how to tune. So I would have to take it somewhere and pay more money for the tuning, if it's required. Thanks!
You made it look easy, I had a really hard time with it even using your tips and tricks. Also did an lb7 up pipe at the same time and a mbrp downpipe. I put the new gaskets on my y bridge and it was too tight, tried for about 3 hours to get it in place and just went back to the old gaskets. It was an experience but I'm gonna say ill pay someone next time!
Thank you so much for the videos. I love all the time you take to show every single bolt and every single step. I'm taking my 05 to get deleted at the shop. I'd love to do it myself but it's my work truck and I need the tax write-off. I have to spend money on maintenance. The mechanic recommended up pipe replacement and EGR valve block off plates. I'd like to do the high flow pipe and y bridge like your video
Watched this video, went and checked mine and it’s doing the exact same thing. So I’ll be referencing this video again when my new bridge gets here haha
One other thing that should be mentioned. If you're removing your y-bridge and you have a aftermarket turbo that is any bigger than stock you will need to remove it in order to get the top left bolt out of the bridge.
*first time here, first thing from one veteran to AD Thanks for your service. I like the kit but it's kinda pricey but like my old boss used to say that's the kind of game if you wanna play you gotta pay. might as well pony up and pay for the good stuff before you start throwing good money in after bad for less results. Next you need to take that thing and have a proper tune put on it so you're not wasting so much fuel when you rug the pedal. also in order to make the thing hook up not sure if you have them or not but traction bars are a must keeps the rear end from twisting and causing wheel hop*
Nice work man! Another thing to do is take the up pipe off and replace it with a lb7 up pipe or 2" performance up pipes. Or do what I did and cut the egr bellow right at the pipe and weld a peice of metal on it. The egr bellows are known for bursting with plates and also it gives better straight on flow to the turbo for better spool. Just a pointre and heads up!
Great video! My LBZ already has the Sinister Diesel setup but my dad has a LBZ as well only stock. His EGR is giving his 40k mile truck issues already, so I'm going to recommend this kit. By the way, love the channel. I subscribed a few months back when I bought my truck and have watched about all your Duramax videos. I appreciate all the hard work, it helps a lot!
I really enjoy your videos man, got my first diesel which is a white CCSB 4X4 SILVERADO LBZ A couple years ago and have started doing a few mods to it.
Took me the same time to do my y- bridge. I did mine after attempting your billet wheel install, I decided, I didn't want to do it twice. I also bought the boost leak tester yesterday before watching this video lol. Keep em coming truckmaster. Just a suggestion but have you looked into Cal tracs or traction bars? I get a lot of axle wrap and they are a must for traction. I just did the Merchant auto pump rub kit, my case was just about to get rubbed through by the pump, that would also be a good video. Berny fix is better and cheaper.
+cesar laso thanks for the advice I haven’t put a lot of thought into trac bars or tcase funny how we are thinking alike on the other stuff I hope I have no leaks because when I get on the throttle it still sounds like a woooosshhhh noise in the engine bay not sure if there still is a leak or the new pipe and bridge just make the truck sound better
The flexible extension would’ve been perfect, I used a swivel and electric tape to the nuts on the socket to hold it in place till I could thread them. Also tried the magnet but mine doesn’t stay tight enough to turn the nut onto the threads it would just spin. Good job buddy congrats
Great vid as always bro. I see them bolts kicked your behind. Lol. I said I was gonna take sometime to get them back bolts off but u did your thang and glad u enjoying it. Glad u took our advice on WCFab Now gone turn that beast up. Nothing else to blow out boost
Truck Master I think u knocked that problem out. I guess boost leak down tester will give u that answer. Think I may make my own they are a little pricey
been watching here and there from probably one of your first vids where you installed egr delete kit... man those truly are junk, I have ine and had to replace o rings and have my kit pretty much zip tied to help secure it better...anyone with delete kit wishes they did the Y bridge instead, i know i do !! probably do mine next spring as im sure i have boost leak for sure there, take care
So I went outside and checked my Lly that hasn’t ever been apart @ the Y bridge -i deleted the 3 egr components in 2006 long before the factory warranty was over,anyway my intake tube going into the Y bridge is tight as hell-i tried to move it & it won’t budge whatsoever?Since 2008 I’ve had a ppe 120hp tune on it-straight piped,cold air intake & pcv retouted to dump inside the driver frame rail @ rear tire-oh by the way my egr delete kit was $19 & I’ve yet to have any issues with my truck-it gets put to the floor several times an hour each day & every now and then will hang in fourth gear & we all know what that is but damn it’s got 422k hard miles on it! Never put injectors just a crap load of diesel kleen @ every exxon fill up👍🏼
Great video man! I'm glad theres finally a video on youtube on how to do it! I pretty much did the same technique as you did! A little tip on LMMs (because its a little closer) is you have to loosen the 3 turbo pedestal bolts to slightly pry the turbo back to get to that top bolt out that hits the compressor housing. Thats what i did if anyone on here is working on LMMs lol. Good Job!!
Brennen McGuire I'm having issues with this right now and can't get the last two bolts for the pedestal to pry that back, if you could give me any more info on how you did it would be great
Tyler Smith yeah man, the other two bolts are on the drivers side if you already loosened the passenger side one. You can’t see them, so what I did was I got my socket with an extension and feel for it (because you can’t see them.) Then I got a breaker bar and loosened them ( you might needa get a cheater pipe to bust them loose.) It’s a bit of a tight fit. I removed my glow plug controller as well. Do you have an idea on where the other two are?
Brennen McGuire Yup I got the passenger side loose and can't see other two on drivers side, I removed the glow plug controller and that's as far as I got
Just got the money together to buy a 07 along with the credit union, I looked at it and knew right off that someone like me with a 4 level back fusion and some metal from the bad guys while in the military would need some help since bending in most any direction is almost impossible. I hope someone knows some one that lives in south west Tennessee or north west Georgia might give me a hand not looking for help for nothing but when you get whacked as bad as I did your in trouble physically. The truck I was lucky enough to get is a 07 with 73 thousand miles hope to get it done before it gunks up
1. What about removing the egr and installing up pipe? Do you have another video for that? 2. What should I do for codes? Should I just throw a tuner and shut them off? Thanks for the video!
I swear I'm right behind you on everything I watched your egr delete video's to delete my egr now I blew out my stock y bridge o rings also and need a real y bridge lol should've watched this video first lol
Hey, thank you so much for taking the time to show your work. It would help as my full wehrli kit comes this week. Quick question, in I am replacing both up pipes, and the down pipe would you recommend just taking the turbo out?
great video man. Still slowing catching up to some of your mods although I'm really just keeping everything stock. I just want the truck to make 1 million miles before an engine build. Hopefully the last truck I "have" to buy.
Hi Truck Master I want to say thank you for doing what you do, your videos and information you share are great source of knowledge. I have a question , what is the best turbo for your dollar$ on a 2007.5 duramax LMM . Thank you
Thank You for the very detailed video. The pipe that goes into the oem y-bridge as a friction fit with 2 large o-rings I did not notice any brackets that holds this pipe.is this correct or not? I am looking at doing a boost leak.test. Thank You for your Service.
Hey man I love the vids and I have a question. So I have an 05 LLY and I’m looking for the best Egr delete, what do you recommend and should I do the Down pipe at the same time?
The ybridge that was used has a major flaw. All the air flowing in hits a wall disrupting the flow. Shoulda used the pusher its actually in the shape of a Y.
Hey truck master love the install vid had a question. You know anyone with the pusher y bridge? Herd its got better flow than the wcfab but was curious of your opinion
I've heard that after a vehicle reaches 20 or 25 years old that emissions parts are no longer expected to be supported by aftermarket and then become "legal" to delete. While that may not be useful to new truck owners its not that longer before several popular years of diesel trucks reach that age. Once a vehicle is eligible for antique tags, you no longer even have to get an inspection... could be state by state.
Bud I love the videos very explained I’ve been a mechanic purty much all my life but not for diesel but you have helped tremendously! Ty! I have an 04 duramax it does awesome it’s got the Diablo predator tuner on it! It’s ok but I’ve changed the egr block off and yes the cheap way I’m moving to the mountains and it’s a 6 hour trip one way I’ve not had any problems thank god except I broke the fork in the transfer case I rebuilt it works perfect changed the opening mouth piece for the turbo for better performance supposedly I’m very anal over my trucks I’m looking to make my diesel well not so much fast which it already is but my question to you is how to make more towing power without breaking the bank? I’ve been pulling my enclosed trailer and open car trailer to transport all my stuff from one house to another and when I get into the mountains well pulling up hill is not a problem but transmission gets very hot ! What I want is plenty of power towing not so much fast I want a reliable power house I’m planning on keeping the truck I just want when I hook to something I don’t want any doubts or well it’s going to run hot I’ve changed both thermostats hoses belts fluids etc I changed them probably more than the normal person yes I over do everything but I know I can get into any of my trucks and not worry! Any advice would help I think that’s one thing you haven’t addressed! About towing! Ty in advance!
What is that quick connect fitting coming off your oil fill cap for and the silver canister looking part on the driver side of the engine compartment? Does he talk about those in another video?
Love your videos! Always good tips for working on my LBZ. Quick question though, what kind of tank is bolted on to the plate next to do the a/c compressor? Is it an onboard air compressor?
After watching the Y-Bridge video I am wondering what the best order of operations is for my stock lly with 195k. Instead of doing the egr delete and then doing the y-bridge... So I just ordered the s&b mouthpiece and am thinking of ordering the lb7 up pipe. What are your recommendations from there? Thanks for all the great informational videos.
hunter wayman the lb7 up pipe esp by wcfab seems ideal as you no longer have that third leg where the blocker plate goes. The less shit in these engine compartments the better.
Is that an airborne patch I see? I’m not in the military but always loved the airborne. Rumor is that you get an extra chute for the gigantic balls you have. Lol
Taking off my y-bridge...the up left rear bolt behind the metal hose will not come out without cutting the head off. Your video doesn’t show the whole task. How did you get that out. Did you cut it??? Be honest bro.
Hey bud I just bought a mint 05 lly 1 owner. He put a lift pump in it and bypassed the stock filter but left the stock filter and housing. Stupid question I'm a motocross and aircraft/airboat mechanic but will it suck air in through the in let fitting were the stock filter housing is?
Truck master, again great video and very informative and I would not have gotten as far as I have without these directions. What I would like too point out is the fuel lines that run almost directly above the y bridge insert. Theres no way too put the wcfab in place with original lines. I've cut them short heat bent them and routed new copper lines. My question is how did you go about it? Asking due too my original method not working and resorting to a custom route.
