you're always the professional...I respect that. I have been doing home repair for 35 years or so, and I believe that prep work is as important as the finished project.
I’m just starting. I’m a newbie and my dad already wants me to do everything as fast as he does it. Then he gets mad and says, “ I’ve shown you how to do this 1,000 times do you wanna learn or no”. Respect from me to you man. Great work!
Great to see how you do things right. Quick question : would you consider making a video about how to remove the dust protection and clean up properly afterwards ? I think we all need to see how to not suck at it. 😅
I’ve been a painter for 35 years now recently I have discovered zip wall and I love them it’s a game changer I used to do it exactly the way you are in the video now I put it up with the zip wall hold it up there and then tape it works fantastic harbor freight has some cheap version to that works
Very nice. I’m getting ready to sand in my house. Bunch of Sheetrock repair after removing polybutylene. The only thing I’m adding is 2 industrial heap filters. One will be where I’m sanding exhausting out the window and the other outside the bubble catching anything that gets out when I come out. My wife has asthma.
Thank you SO much for continuing to post videos like this! I discovered your channel a couple weeks ago when COVID lockdown started, you have been helping me keep my sanity!
Been working with no help over 20 years now, bro. I don't envy you. Every is so much easier when you have competent help, which then makes it impossible to bid for jobs competitively. Catch 22
Beautifully explained and demonstrated. I built a dust protection plastic room for a small 6 x 4 ft ceiling drywall replacement and texturing in a living room, and it kept an immense amount of drywall dust out of the room. Thanks so much!
Thanks for sharing I've been following your channel for over a year now and I learned a lot from you. I'm able to do all my all my interior renovations myself thanks to you. I a fan from Flagstaff, AZ.
I use thumb tacks or push pins to tack up the plastic to the ceiling. You can stretch out plastic tight and only need about 1 every 4 feet. Reusable too.
Like you work. I have used a slightly different system to contain dust. It takes a little more work but i do not like depending on tape for long term work. I have had tape come loose before. Using 1x2's and 2x4's. Cut the 1x2 to the width of your opening. Cut the 2x4's to the height minus the thickness of the 1x2 of the opening. Cut the plastic long and wide for your opening. Wrap what would be the top edge around the 1x2. Staple or tape to keep it affixed. Stand the 2x4's up at the edges of your space so you can reach them. Get on platform or step ladder so you can reach the ceiling. Lift the 1x2 and the plastic up to the ceiling and then wedge the 2x4's under the end of the 1x2 to hold it in place. Make sure it is pushed up tight.
Great videos. Im a painter and do most all of the patching, finishing, light carpentry and just things outside of usual task for most painters. Im basically self taught or I read and watch videos on some of these task im not very experienced with. Your channel is my go too. You have a knack for teaching and make things understandable for me.
I was applying texture to the ceiling and walls a few weeks ago and taped/plastic off the windows first to apply texture to the walls and then put up plastic to texture the ceilings. (I primed the walls first so the tape didn't pull off the texture) What I noticed with the windows that it's a good way to determine how leaky some of the windows were. Also your comment about how that type of plastic and tape is not a long term solution is spot on. Just the air movement from the AC running caused the plastic to fall off the walls after I textured the ceilings. Luckily I didn't need that plastic up any longer.
I like the tearing the tape tab & placement idea and putting the tape on your wrist. I have been using my wire drywall tape hip/belt dispenser on larger masking projects. Good stuff thanks!
A way I started putting up plastic is useing as wide of blue tape i can find. Stick it to the ceiling and spray it with 3m spray adhesive. That light plastic will stick very well. You can have a opening to act as a door and use the 3m spray to stick it back together many times. Also if it pulls down from the ceiling you can stick it right back up.
I was impressed with how far that role of tape went up his arm! I use the same with the tape tabs, and occasionally use a 2x4 wedged against the ceiling using an almost vertical studs sitting on another 2x4 on the floor. Have to judge whether those surfaces can take it though (subfloor is fine) You are entertaining though, even taping plastic to a ceiling!
Ben, Really appreciate your videos. I find after patching and while painting there are some areas I missed and I think it has to do with lighting or the angle I am looking at it. Could you consider a video on lighting, the best kind of light bulbs (clear white, blue, daylight, soft white etc), where to place lights when working on a ceiling or wall. Thanks
I always have the best results with natural lighting from a window. Or even with a daylight bulb or worklight right on the outside of the entry way instead of shining directly on the room. When I paint with artificial lights on then turn them off I always see holidays that I didnt see with the lights on
They are expensive but Zipwall poles or equivalent have saved me sooo much time setting up plastic like this that it have paid forthemselves in only a few jobs. Easy to throw it up quick and if u need to tape it to seal it, it's already held straight and up against the ceiling
@@ronaldjohnston8412 not sure what u mean, I work for myself on bid jobs so every minute saved is more money in my pocket. Usually doing things slower gets you more money for less effort if you are hourly. Like I said it has saved me time masking large areas, especially when I'm just worried about paint splatter and don't have to tape the plastic to make a seal. Even then I'm sure it has saved me a bundle.
Did a job at Mercedes Benz corporate here in NJ where for 3 weeks we had to put up a plastic dust wall between two huge rooms with 20 foot ceilings and 40-50 ft wide . Every single day we had to put it up and tear it down towards the end of the day. It stole 2-3 hours from the workday everyday. HATED IT
I glad I found your site. I just bought a condo in Annapolis, MD and I'm prepping all the holes and attempted patches done by the previous owners as well as damage around outlets. Your site has covered every detail on what I'm going through and I want to thank you because I'm seeing all the techniques you show, really work. If the opportunity arises, could you cover the process of preparing the walls to run a cable outlet already installed on one side of the room, fishing the cable through the ceiling and ending on the other side of the room? Thanks so much again for doing this type of site.
Have you tried ZipWall? When I first started using them I did not like them; however, I forced myself to use them on every job and well now I can't be without them. They work great for this type of application.
I use ZipWall as well and it’s incredible however I think the point of this is an affordable yet very effective solution for dust/debris management. ZipWall as great as it is is not exactly the type of product that someone would invest in for a small job or project
Too much time to put a temp wall up. I used to tape up plastic too and create negative pressure from a window. Back breaking work. But then I learned about zip wall and third hand pole systems. Game changers. Taping plastic is good for DIYers to learn though. Cheapest way to make a wall. Only thing is, if they leave the tape on too long then they are going to need to put it back up to skim coat and retexture the walls they taped too lol
hey I've been learning a lot from watching your channels and I'm glad I came across your videos they have been very detail on how to repair and/or fix step by step and especially with me being new to all of this is a big help so thank you for showing me your tips and tricks. I'll definitely be looking out for more of your videos.
The content on this is pure genius as it's not frequently covered. Here's my question: You installed Ram Board on the floor, covered the couch, moved and assembled your mobile scaffolding, coated the ceiling with Spackle, and installed about 60 feet ( 19 Meters) of plastic, sanded, and painted (presumably), to level 5 coat a 10 x 12 foot ceiling. How much did the customer pay for all of these materials and time for this small ceiling repair? WOW!!
I believe this property is a friend of his and it's more of a favor and not at a full rate. He mentioned that in some older videos, which also gives him the relaxed environment to film in.
Purple tape is gentler. As far as air flow... If you suck in the drywall dust into your ac.. it makes the pipes filthy. It can severely clog your evaporator.
I have a spare vacuum with a HEPA filter on it, and while sanding in the "enclosure", I leave the vacuum outside, but have the hose run into the inside of the enclosure. The creates a bit of negative pressure inside the space, which helps to 1 - reduce the amount of dust the sneaks out 2 - helps keep the air inside the space a bit less dusty 3 - reduces the amount of dust that falls on the floor (and less to clean up) A cyclone helps keep the vacuum drawing as much air as possible, and reduces the frequency of needing to clean out the filters.
What cyclone do you have? Do you find the cyclone works well for drywall dust? I've got the dust deputy but I haven't spent enough time to determine if really helps with the fine dust. I do find I need to clean the filter with fine mdf dust and certainly some of the drywall dust is getting to my hepa filter.
walnut contractors - I have the Dust Deputy, mounted on a modified Gamma Lid. It works really well for drywall dust. I would estimate it gets more than 95% of the dust. The one downside I finds is it's a bit "top heavy" when empty, especially with the hoses attached. Next time I'm south of the border I plan to pick up a couple of the Ridgid Dusttoppers and give them a try, as they seem to get pretty good reviews, will be a bit less top heavy, and are certainly cheaper than the DD's. (although there are some DD clones out there nowadays)
"That Kilted Guy" did a drywall dust test of the DD, not exactly scientific, but informative ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-VRqC7SzayzM.html
@@VC-Toronto I have the same setup and the same problem. I think it isn't so much top heavy as you tend to pull the DD along by the hose and the hose is attached to the top of the DD. I am thinking of just making an elbow and riser so i could have the hose pulling from the bottom of the DD unit. I made a little cart that the dd sits in so when I pull if the wheels get stuck it pulls the top of the dd. If I setup an elbow and riser the pull force would be at the bottom of the DD cart and I think would be fine. You have yours on a cart?
I'm 36 been doing drywall off and on throughout my life watched a lot of your videos, also...... doing my normal thing watching skate videos and all of a sudden I see you and I'm like wtf.. dudes a legitimate skater! Been thinking about getting back into it, and your videos are a nice push in that direction. You give great advice on both topics that interest me. Awesome man keep it up.
Really enjoy and use your videos How about a video on how to fix amateur's mistakes such as sanding into taped joints or building out taped joints that are too high, etc.?
A "clean room" might actually be better and requires controlled airflow. I mean... It would be harder and more expensive to setup so I guess that makes it a no go, but the idea would be a sealed off area that is positive pressured, with an outlet that is filtered to catch all the dust.
It's a fun idea but it sounds a bit risky if the outlet fails. Positive interior pressure would mean dust is looking to escape into the home. Negative air pressure seems preferable. I think that's what actual clean rooms rely on.
Yes and with zipwall yoh can actually get negative air flow going even with that type of platic, something that i believe tonbe too hard to do with the pastic just taped to the cealing
Thank you for the technique this is great! If I was there I would have held your back while you were contorted. It looked painful. 😖 I’d say you used 90 feet of poly.
Your technique pulling the plastic from the floor to over your head probably gives you 6-7 feet. Measure your perimeter and count the number of pulls you need.
The struggle is real people... Seeing drywall dust makes me start to choke up and cough and having it on my skin makes me itch... Its admittedly kind of crazy, but it happens... It never used to bother me ... I used to sand with a "contractor dust mask" and little to ventilation with no issues... But after about 10 years of doing this work drywall dust is now the bane of my existence... They say you can develop allergies to things you were overexposed to over time , and then get hyper reactions .. so perhaps that's the issue.. So now I only do "level 5" (usually takes me 6 coats) b/c I have drywall OCD (cant stand looking at bad joints/bubbles/nail pops/liftoffs/shadows etc) and now that im blessed with a ridiculous chemo-phobic style (admittedly semi-irrational) sensitivity/allergy to drywall dust... its the way she goes. I scrape between coats after the 3rd coat and do 2 skim coats 1st Skim coat I roller on thick (3/4" nap roller) and knife level with 16" knife 2nd Skim coat roller on light (3/8nap roller) and level with 24" texturing knife I get flat smooth walls ready for primer. After I 1st coat of primer I will spot fill any thing I see and do a 2nd coat of primer. This seems to produce a surface that will look near flawless when covered with up to gloss/semigloss paint with a 500watt halogen light shined on it from the side. This system is not fast, but its virtually dust free (I have a HEPA Air Scrubber running at all times) and its probably takes me 50% more time then my old system which included sanding between coats, but the majority of that is dry time b/c I do coat 4-6 with regular lightweight all purpose. I found that for me at least, doing "enough" dust control and cleaning up afterwords takes the same amount of time and far more effort then just applying a 5th and 6th (2 skim) coats. I also have to wear a full face/head forced air respirator if i'm sanding... I'll do it if i have to but I am miserable for 1-2 days after a project that requires sanding. I hate drywall dust more then I hate taking more "days" to complete my projects. The market here supports that as its all remodel work in occupied homes, its the same way I do it in my own home as well.
Nice video. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. ZipWall is the only way to go for heavier weight poly and use of a ZipWall zipper or two for long term projects.
Zip pole system dawg. It is a good investment and will save you time and energy. Worth checking out nevertheless. Good to see you have a Nick. Good content and I really appreciate your effort to make videos for people to learn. Thanks!
Hey budddy great work. I really appreciate your work. I’m also in BC and work as drywall sheet installer only. So we work in Vancouver, Surrey, every where. So, i was concerned about my health like dust. Because you know when we use routor there to much dust. So please suggest me any safety gear for dust protection like masks or anything else. Give me tips too. Thank you and please reply ASAP. Thank you and keep it up 👍
I'm no expert by a long shot, but wouldn't a longneck sander and dust extractor be more economical in the long run, seeing the time and effort you put?
This might be a weird question man, but I demo and install floors for a living and often tape up rooms and close off doorways with plastic. You could imagine how much dust you get from demoing tile and thinset. What brand of tape do you use? My blue tape last at best 2 hours and plastic starts falling. I’ve tried 3m and others
They had my door open when sanding ceiling drywall and it got all over. they had a person come and clean but there is still don’t dust everywhere, including in my closets and cabinets. Can i wipe they up with wet sponge?
