Jim Perkins, thank you so much for this. There was nothing wrong with my kill switch other than that I didn't know there was one. I had disassembled the main body assembly to fix a stuck max switch, and when I put that back together I popped the battery back in to test it - and nothing. I never thought to try it fully assembled (i.e. with the cyclone assembly back on), assuming it should work without it, having seen only the contacts for the power brush between the two. I near went crazy taking apart the main assembly again and trying to figure this out, found no visible sign of damage, and even checked all the connectors for continuity. I checked the main power lines for voltage with the battery back in, and finally thought it might be the power trigger. I googled for info about removing that, and found your video. You have saved one grateful idiot the cost of a new assembly. Thank you so much again.
Jim, for people who only have problem with the connection, this is what I did: I have put a strip of hot glue on the rubber tips of the filter, so they are a little bit thicker now and connect better with the rubber piece inside the dyson. That worked for me, so before taking the dyson apart and solder those points, people can try this first.
scrappedlives like the thoughts. For mine when I removed the tuner the micro switch basically fell apart. This is a lower impact way of fixing! Nice job
Jim Perkins - I ended up getting a new one, because I couldn't fix it & really do love this vacuum! I kept the old one though, so I'll give it a try. Thanks for response!
I have a DC31 and the little switch you are talking about in fact have TWO wires on the back of it and these need to make contact together. I tried removing it and solder the wires but while pulling on that switch the one of the wire broke off.. so i soldered the little wire deep in the hole left to the other contact still on the switch and it worked well. so i would saw YES if you remove the front plastic of the switch by inserting a flat screwdriver to the little white button and pull off the front of the switch then it reveal the 3 contact.. and if you solder all 3 together carefully it will work! Thanks again, i saved my DC31 Doc
I suspect that for those of you who cannot find the three contacts where Jim reports finding his, there is a thin rubber cover that holds a half-inch metal arm over a plunger on a micro-switch (black body, white thin plunger to activate the switch). That thin rubber cover helps to hold that metal arm in place, and I can see how it would wear out with monthly filter cleanings. The rubber molding of the filter, correctly situated, forces the arm over the white micro-switch plunger to close the switch, and allow the trigger to apply current to the motor. If you see only the micro-switch and not the arm, you can test the switch's integrity by holding the vacuum trigger in, and using a small screwdriver to depress the plunger straight into the micro-switch. The micro-switch should make an audible click when depressed sufficiently. (Remember to remove the charging plug as the unit will not operate with the charging cord attached.) Even though my thin rubber cover for the arm wore out, I was able to situate the metal arm's spring loaded pincers in the slot near the micro-switch plunger, install the filter and operate it without the intermittent cut off. If you have lost the metal arm or cannot mount it so as to activate the switch with the filter installed (or if the micro-switch itself is defective), then Jim's repair using soldering should work, but you will have to remove the micro-switch to get at the contacts Jim reports.
"The Secret Freemason's Microswitch" I found a little arm under the rubber, a slight increase in its tension brought the switch into operation and the motor now works fine. Should work ok re-assembled now the filter is washed and replaced. I also had issues with the trash lid not opening, a spray of INOX automotive lube fixed that one too.
I got as far as "The Secret Freemason Switch" - it was a white plastic rectangle with what appeared to be two gold leads coming out of it (not Three) - I could get the engine working intermittently by sliding a small screwdriver down beside the white switch incurring little sparks - not by connecting the leads. Thinking I'd find the three contacts under the switch ? No - what little white wires were left semi-retreated into the handle - I officially have a DEAD HANDHELD. If I could do it over again I would add a bit of glue from a glue gun the the filter 'nub' and stop there - or gently lift one of the tension arms under the rubber as suggested here DON'T TRY TO REMOVE THE SWITCH.
Mine has had the problem described here ever since I bought the bloody thing. Cleaned the contacts and the filter: no joy. Ripped out the switch that was mentioned in the video: not just soldered, but ripped it out altogether and connected the two wires directly. No joy. There is something else going on with mine that makes me want to introduce it to my 5lb sledge. Suggestions before I have some fun in the back yard?
I wish you had shown those three contact points in your video. I had the same issue and when I pulled the rubber out there is absolutely nothing behind it which it could contact or to solder. Perhaps something fell out . Anyways, behind that rubber is only the white / black wires going back into the handle's rear section. Now pulling the batter and looking into the hole I have the usual +& - for the battery. on the inside rear of the handle on the back side there is 3 terminals. These contact the rear of the battery's post. Are these the 3 terminals you are referring to?
Hi mc. The three points looked like there should have been a metal piece that should have it created a switch. . That laid on top of them .Wires attached to those. Don't remember the color but basically this was a bad designed switch plate made out of rubber and a little metal piece that when the two parts are connected closes the circuit . I actually just used a fair amount of solder and that closed the circuit permanently. You could try by just laying the solder across the points and pulling the trigger. If it goes on then melt it! Good luck
+Jim Perkins Thanks. My switch must have fallen completely out because all I had was the rubber front piece. Anyways since it was just shy of 2 years I called them and after a quick walk through the tech offered to send me a new body which I just received in today's mail. I sure can't complain about that and will save the old one in case I need it later on.
+Merlin Cat The saga continues. So I get the new body from Dyson I use it a few times and it goes out as well, wonderful! So once again I get Dyson on the phone and run the checks to find the battery is toast and out of warranty. No way I am going to pay what they want for one so I pick one up from Amazon that rates well . Long story short now I have 2 good batteries, 2 bodies and it still doesn't work. It charges at 25 volts and the batteries test out at 20 - 22 so it's still their moronic safety switch. The plan now is to disassemble the case and actually see what I am doing in there. Needless to say I am not at all impressed with Dyson. This is the 4th or 5th model we have had and the ONLY one that I didn't have to tear into repeatedly was the first , DC 14. Sad but all too true.
+Adam Stauffer I had three contacts that were in effect what was left of the switch . connecting them all through the use of solder I guess eliminated the switch....
Dyson DC 35 charger not lighting up green when plugged into socket. Dyson not charging up, when pressed the on trigger not coming on but when pressed the 'Max' button green light is flashing dimly. Can anyone help identify the problem? Thanks for help. Masie 🙂
I don't have that safety switch mine will come on without the filter in place, I tried cleaning all the contacts, checking for blockage, running the power head without the beater, cleaning the filter etc... the battery is full charge and all I get is 6 to 7 seconds on and then it shuts off all I get is a green flashing light...
I don't think they are the same I am describing. And I did it as well as many more with no problems. If u think this could hurt your vacuum Please take it to Dyson for them to fix.
+Jim Perkins thanks, I didn't know that. I actually trashed mine after ripping it off trying to run it off external power, hopefully someone will help me find out the power rating of the motor.
Before I tried soldering the three points, I called Dyson and the person I spoke to thought it was the filter. She was very kind but wrong. The machine was plugged but not the filter, it was the power nozzle. I cleaned it out, it was loaded with junk, and I think I did it. I'm sure the soldering works but in my case the plugged nozzle was the problem.
+Robin Meighen sorry this is so late. the three points are the metal points under the rubber piece. in mine that rubber wore out so there were in effect 3 contacts that when they all touched allowed the trigger to turn the unit on. try touching a wire to all three at the same time to see if it works for u before soldering/ good luck
Rémi Courty I suggest u look at the top about trying to use a glue gun to make the tuner contact easier to push. If that doesn’t work pull/pry the rubber off the switch and touch a metal blade ( screwdriver or nail file works) to the contact points to join them. If that works as u pull the trigger then my soldering fix should work Good luck!
