This is a old school and full proof way to change your U joints in under 45 mins. all you need is a hammer and some heat!! enjoy! you can buy products here. amzn.to/2CYXx4s amzn.to/2CX5Ldv
Saftey Notice! In the 70's I was a Heavy Repair Mechanic at a Buick Dealer in Michigan. These Plastic Retainers are used in G.M. Vehicles and I was replacing the U Joints on a Driveshaft. I had the Shaft held in a Vise and was heating it up and out of nowhere, BANG!. The light above me went out and broken Glass was falling all over me. The Bearing Cap shot out like a Shotgun Slug, hit the Flourecent Fixture almost going through the Metal and shattered the Bulbs. If I would have had my head above it, it could have killed me or injured me badly. Make sure you never have the Cap you are removing pointed in the direction of ANYONE! The other Mechanics said they never saw that happen before.
plainwornout3 wow!!!! I read that twice. Thanks glad you did not get hurt and are still around to teach is these things. That's intense. Bet you never saw anything like that again???
The guy I talked to about cutting my drive shaft says the same thing. He has had a couple explode and hit the ceiling of his shop, so keep your head out from above it.
I have seen this explosion happen all the time especially when using oxy-acetylene and cutting torch. The heat is contained and it builds up inside the cup and it will find a way out to relieve the heat through explosion. Propane torch is the best way to use just like on the video. It may take longer but it's much safer.
Wow, good tip thanks for sharing. This is most likely due to any water being in the cup, once water turns to steam...the expansion rate is the same as Nitroglycerin...hence POW! Similar to when very small droplets of moisture pop in a pan of hot oil.
Just used this tip on my 06 rubicon front u joint. Worked great. Only video I could find that mentioned the plastic retainer pins. I was at a loss until I saw your video. Thanks.
Don't hit the drive staff yoke, that will damage it anywhere you hit it. Use a impact socket large enough to go over the u-joint cap and use that to hammer on.
I'm in boise as well, 97 ram cummins 2500 longbed with HD camper package(same 2 peice rear driveline setup as the 3500 one tons) Just pulled my line today, u joints are seized in pretty well. Last time I cut them off with a skinny wheel and knocked em out. Gonna have to replace the transfer case extension housing seal too, its leaking .
The 'pin' is actually the sprue where the plastic was injected into the joint to lock it. The hole leads to a groove machined half into the cup and half into the yoke, thereby creating a ring that, when filled with the plastic, locks the joint. You should actually heat the joint all around, starting at the heavy side. That way, the whole ring boils out rather than just the sides and area over the thin section. You have to do two at at a time minimum; I did all at once. Mine was a double cardan, so, double the amount there. Another good thing to remember is not to remove the rest of that 'pin' with a drill. The groove in the yoke will still be filled with plastic that should be removed. If you leave the remains of the sprue and tap with a punch, most of the remains will pop right out. If you drill the pin, you'll be there for a while scraping and prying the remains out with a pick of some sort. The plastic they use is extremely tough and hard and almost has a fibrous appearance. Not fun to try to dig out I hear.
My universal joint is on a tractor PTO drive shaft. The plastic pin you burned out looks to be metal (not sure, going to check). If so I assume would I just heat and try to pull it out with lock pliers or can you pound it through to the other side ? Great VID BTW for us folks that don't have shop presses or brake pullers...- Thanks for taking the time= Bob
It looked like the hosing was broken on the other side. I guess it depends on if it's staked. I've seen it done with a socket & hammer. The joint is the only thing that really needs replacing. They sell a kit so the shaft doesn't need replacement just the U joints because the bearings won't move freely & siezing up is causing heavy vibration leading to complete failure of the part.
My problem is, I’m doing one with outside clips and I can not get the cap to seat fully on the second side for anything…any idea what the problem could be?
Probably have it figured out & fixed by now but if not take the cap back off & see if one of the needle bearings fell sideways prevent the cap from fully sweating. GOOD LUCK!
David R Whitford The 'pin' is actually the sprue projecting from an injection hole leading to a ring that is machined half into the cup and half into the yoke. The plastic forms a lock ring all the way around the two pieces.
It doesnt work that way. Plastic pin is just the result of the injection process. The cap is encircled with nylon, and is hard as steel. Heat it and you can then drive it out.
I learned this before there was the internet RU-vid or anything ...the easy way junk yard 🤟 ..give your son some tools in his own box put his name on it let it take anything apart it’s best experience
I bought my truck with an aftermarket shaft that had these pins, which I did not know existed. I thought they all used c clips and such. This is a life saver Thanks!!!!
It's not actually a plastic pin. The two holes are where plastic is injected into a channel that goes completely around the bearing cap, locking it in place.
New ones will come with retaining clips (E-clips or G-clips, depending on whether there is a zerk fitting in the end of the new bearing cap. The clips will sit in the groove that used to hold the plastic. At least, that's the way it's supposed to work.
Bro bro bro do not use a torch it's not needed just make sure u remove all retainer clips just wack with a 16 ounce hammer and 1 inch socket that's it real easy I've done many pairs over 40 years these are the easiest to remove no matter how long or rusted they bin in I never ever ever needed heat !!!!! Dont burn yourself
I have to do mine on an 88 chevy pickup and was thinking about using a u joint puller would that work? When I called the shop for a quote they made it sound complicated and said they would have to measure to get the right u joints, they told me it would be an all day job and I dont believe them, they want to charge me $550 and said finding the right parts may be an issue but when I looked them up autozone has multiple ones that are all in stock, I am researching so I can do them myself, is there any suggestions you can give me, Thanks in Advance
@@mercedeslindigenous4219 yes u can use puller but really all you need is a socket slightly smaller than the diameter of bearing soak all first night before with rust blaster WD40 support under knuckle and hit socket with hammer it's very easy
He’s doing ones that have plastic molded injected that needs to be melted out, they won’t hammer out until you get the molded plastic injection crap out
Doesn't anybody use their vehicle as a press? So simple to jack up your ride then put your sockets where you would if you were using a press,place the driveshaft under the frame so that one of the sockets is centered on the bottom of the frame. Slowly lower the jack & the weight of the vehicle will press it out enough to bottom ont the u joint. Flip it & do the same thing for the other cap. Note: When you lower the jack don't stick your face down to watch. The sockets have been known to pitch to one side & fire out at tremendous velocity. Took one in the shin years ago. Damn that hurt.
Personally, I would not have my Children anywhere near this when removing these joints. Eyesight should Last a lifetime, he could lose his in a quick moment. My opinion!
