Here is a really easy repair for a Kenmore Dryer that has an F01 error message. The repair takes about an hour and doesn’t cost you a thing if you have the necessary tools.
DUDE! FIXED!! Exact same problem, soldered it up, MINT! This thing won’t die and I friggen love it! 😂 I am just gonna buy whatever Danny buys so I can keep em going! Haha CHEERS man!
Glad it worked for you! Yes, these machines are great and can last for many years still. The next one for me that started wearing down are the rollers and belt that rotate the drum. If your machine starts to squeak, it will be time to replace them. There are lots of videos on RU-vid you can find for the repair as well. Anyway, have a great rest of the week and thanks for commenting!
I almost never comment, subscribe, or post, but this here has earned the exception. My drier had the exact same issue, exact same spot. I’ve never soldered anything in my life, and I went and bought a $50 iron, an inch of thin copper wire, and just tried the same repair as I saw. My wife thinks I’m a conquering hero, I feel 10 feet tall and farting thunder, and my drier works. THANK YOU!!!
This comment made my day and made me smile! I am so happy this fix worked for you! Thanks for commenting. I really appreciate it. Have a fantastic rest of the day.
My Kenmore drier is 16 years old, so when the fatal F01 error flashed on I figured replacement was unavoidable. After watching this video I was able to get it fixed and back in operation in around 1/2 hour. Thanks so much for posting the video, it has saved me a lot of money.
Stumbled across this video after my dryer had the same issue and everything mirrored the video. I never comment on videos but wanted to say thanks for saving me a bunch of time and money, Danny!
This really works! thank you for posting. I soldered a wire on in a few minutes and was back in business. I was going to order the whole PC board. Well done.
Thank you so much, Danny! Our dryer was doing that F01 error and I panicked, thinking we might need a new dryer. Found this video, sent it to my dad and he was able to fix it. Thank you!! 🙏🙏🙏
And one more time...thanks a million Danny Jose! Here's to a zero dollar fix and keeping a perfectly good machine out of the landfill! Your video showed exactly how to fix my dryer.
Amazing!! I wasn’t sure it would work but I did this and my 15yr old dryer continues to run!! Thank you so much!! You are so generous to share your knowledge!!🙏🙏🙏
This is my favourite video and one of my favourite fixes of the pandemic so far. We live in an area that is impossibly hard to get repair people to. This saved us!!!!
Thank you so much DDIY! This worked perfectly for me. You make the internet a better, more helpful and efficient place. Sending back big love and appreciation for your contribution to society.
Another dryer saved from the dump! Thank you for posting this! Worked for my Kenmore Elite 110.86742700 white model. Some components and connectors not exactly the same, but it still had the burnout in the same area.
This was one of the first videos I found when searching for a f01 code, and my problem was the exact same. Easy enough to solder a jumper wire on there and good to go. Thanks for the video
Worked perfectly. Had all items on hand to fix it took me more time taking the top off and board . Soldering took a few minutes . Thank you very much for the fix 🙇
absolutely appreciate you sharing this DIY video walkthrough, saved a lot of headaches. Amazing!! I did this and my dryer is back up and running!! Thank you so much!! 🙏
Hi Danny! Exact situation happened with my Kenmore dryer and after following your awesome instructions, it works again. Definately a quick fix and money saver. Thank you so much for this DIY video!
Well, just another happy customer - same exact situation - added the jumper wire vs just adding a drop of solder. The heat looks like it damaged the circuit board so re-soldering the point might not have worked as others have done. Anyway, this deserves a hit on the red SUBSCRIBE button.
Thank you so much for your conscious explanation on how to do this! I sordered the circuit board myself and my dryer works perfectly thank you so much!!😊
I was amazed to see exactly the same burnout pattern shown in the video. I did not have any wire so went to Ace Hardware asking for AWG 24 wire, as Danny suggested in one of the comments. A guy there said to use stranded wire because it's better for soldering, so I got the wire. It did not look as thick as the wire in the video but I went ahead with the repair like Danny Jose instructed and sure enough the F1 error went away and the tumbler started rotating when I turned the dryer on. I was really thrilled! However, the euphoria was brief because I soon realized that there is no heat. Checked the manual (Kenmore but looks like a different model than Danny's) and it said it could be a tripped circuit breaker (there are two for the dryer, one for the tumbler and one for the heating element) but that did not solve the problem. I felt so close to solving the problem and joining the ranks of other delighted DIYers but now don't know what to do. I ordered a circuit board in case the soldering did not work and have it but am not sure to try it or not. It cost more than $300 and if I break the seal on the package, I cannot return it. Sorry for the long comment but am at a loss of what to do.
Broke down and replaced the circuit board. Dryer ran with heat, but only for a minute. Got an F-22 error. Tried replacing the thermistor, but that changed nothing. So sad!
Oh man…sorry your repairs did not help. I know how frustrating it could be when you do these fixes and something else goes wrong. The only savings in all this is that if you would have called a service guy, it would have cost you a least $100 for the service call. They would have suggested to replace the board at $500+, probably found the same issue with the heating element as well and charged you another $500+ to replace all of it…and at that point you probably could have bought a brand new dryer with all the cost of the service guy….the dryer would have probably lasted another year and something else probably would go wrong with it. My recommendation is just bite the bullet, swallow the cost of the board (maybe try and return it), and get yourself a new dryer. Again, sorry it did not work for you.
Yep, that's exactly what it needed. "Repair man" would've ordered a new circuit board. Only difference was on mine it was the other side of that power supply circuit (same shape but to the right of it, mirror image). Thanks so much for sharing.
I know this video is like 4 years old , but it saved me lots of headache ( i have a he2 model 110.87561602. ) . I had already ordered the board, but this fixed the problem. I can't say thank you enough.
Thank you so much. My daughters had the same problem. I saved her at least $300 for service and a new control board. ( Service will not repair, only replace the board)
Appreciated very much. Need to dry clothes and don’t want to rush out and buy random dryer. Ours is an HE2 and the board is a little different, but similar enough to put a jumper on.
Christmas loads of laundry saved! Merry Christmas if you celebrate and thanks for the tutorial! Got to show my family who came into town how to rudimentary solder. 😂
@@DDIY-Guy It has to be a good feeling going to bed each night knowing there's X amount of dryers out in the world still a rumblin' and tumblin' thanks to your jumper wire tutorial. Merry Christmas and a happy and healthy New Year to you too!
Well explained. Had the exact same issue with a 15 year old Kenmore HE2 dryer, and this did the trick. A good workaround, instead of $350 for a new board. But ordered a new washer and dryer today anyway, to be delivered in about 8 weeks.... long lead time on some appliances with the pandemic!
@@DDIY-Guy have you heard of any issues with this fix? Have you seen or heard of a quick relapse or failure of the dryer after this fix? Just curious. Thanks!
I find that too....it’s why if I have a good appliance, I try and take care of it and repair it when I can. The only thing with old appliances are the energy efficiency isn’t as good as the new ones.
Thank you so much. I had exactly the same problem and fixed it in a similar way. I am glad I watched it again because I missed that you need to bridge both of the pins on the opposite side of the burnt pin.
Well the board in my dryer had the same defect - resoldered and tested ok - Relay tested ok - but I wonder if it is a manufacturing problem with a bad batch of boards and a cold joint that over time fails - something to watch for
This is so helpful, can’t believe I found this! I’m not handy, but got to the control board and see that fried part. Was able to remove all wires/plastic thingies except that beige one on the lower left corner of the board I’ve pushed, pulled, squeezed, pried, and it won’t budge. Before I apply more force want to make sure it’s going in the right direction My beige thing looks slightly different than yours… wish I could post a pic here… but wondering if any of your readers encountered the same feisty piece and how they removed it! It’s connected to the board and an orange plastic thingie right above it. It has slots, a notch and a wing-like piece so I’m sure there’s some logical way to remove it but I don’t want to break it! Any advice appreciated!
You really just have to squeeze the clip with your thumb and index finger and keep wiggling it off. Maybe get someone with stronger fingers as it can be on pretty tight. Hope you get it off eventually.
Got the F01 error code, and was hoping this was my issue. Took the board out and NO burn marks visible. Replaced the relay anyway still not working, any thoughts?
I am wondering why all of us have the same issue - and if this repair could potentially create a fire hazard - since some sort of blow out happened. Was it just crummy or inadequate solder at that junction? Why did it blow out? With the jumper wire - am I creating the possibility of this power surge might happen again?
Glad you got it running again. Everyone wonders about a potential fire but the blown circuit is common in these units and the housing is built to protect against that. You are not actually bypassing the connection but simply connecting it back up. The only thing that can happen is the it blows again. Since I made this video, my board hasn't blown since.
I've got this error, took the circuit board out after seeing your video, and have a massive black smoke/burn spot on the circuitboard on the back. It wiped off pretty easily, but I'm kinda worried now, as wouldn't this be by-passing a fail-safe? If I solder the wire on the circuitboard, wouldn't it have the possibility to get even hotter, and maybe even start a fire?
great question. no it is not a bypass, you are just soldering the contacts back together. it will be fine. if it blows again, the casing around the board will prevent it from catching fire.
Running into this issue this evening, my only concern is possible fire hazard...should I be worried of causing a fire after x amount of time? Or it should be just fine? This seems like a great $ saving fix that I will do in an instant if it's legit not a hazard. Thanks all for sharing any knowledge, and you Danny sir for the fix video!
In all the comments I’ve heard, there hasn’t been a case of fire as a result of this fix. My machine is still running as good as new since I did this fix. Hope it works out for you as well.
Well I've got it almost off...the motherboard on mine has a blue & red wire on the far right part of the board with a connector end stuck into/onto a orange "tyco - shrack" rectangular thing. On your board it's blank or a yellow rectangular spot where it's missing on yours....I cannot get it fully disconnected...I've worked at it for some time now....smh gna keep trying tho.
@@DDIY-Guy well my friend I got it and now she's running back to normal! My wife was ecstatic when it powered on. I can't thank you enough sir. Saved me a big headache and $!! Keep up your how to videos... im sure plenty of people are greatful for your postings. Have a great rest of the night boss🤙
Awesome! Glad to hear it. Might have to do the same thing for my dishwasher board that just blew. And I can’t find a replacement board :-( Anyway, glad to hear you got it going and it last for many more years more!
As long as the wire connects directly to the contact...that should complete the circuit. Just make sure you put enough super glue so the the wire does not move.
@@DDIY-Guy one last question as I'm doing this now I have it all ready but why won't it melt? did I miss a step or does the wire just melt onto the post or should I have gotten solder?
I’m also thankful for your video. It popped and threw the f01 code and within 30 minutes I had fallowed your instructions and had it repaired and running 🤌🏻👍🏻
Well...the fuse or board would just blow again if anything and the housing should shield it from setting anything on fire. You are basically reconnecting the circuit back on the board so it’s as good as it was before.
@@DDIY-Guy I can't get the error code to show up anymore. When I hit start, it makes a noise back in the circuit board area, like a snap, and then nothing.
