At the end when you put that loop of elastic on the bottom end of the pole you can put the end of the top section under also to stop it flaying about. Also you never mentioned fitting ,a Doobry to stop the elastic from being cut when in its tube. Good video mate.
19thewanderer . Hi the reason for not using a ‘doobry’ or tucking the tip under the pole hook is simple. I pointed out that I use Preston Top Tubes and they have separate sections with a built in ‘doobry’ to protect the elastic. I used to use ‘doobry’s’ but was forever loosing them! A quick tip with the Preston tubes is to glue the elastic protector, the ‘doobry’ in place to prevent any chance of losses. The hook ups are used,in different sizes to hold the hook when placing the pole section in the roost and are much better than placing the hook in the bottom section. To avoid exposing the elastic to UV rays which degrade it, just slide the hook up so that the elastic is only under minimal stretch and is inside the top section preventing the sun from degrading or drying it. The end
Good video Bill and nice tip to use that file instead of a junior hacksaw. I got a junior hacksaw the other day but i'll get one of those three faced files now for when i have to cut back a pole tip. I plan to do that with the spare top kit you get with that Drennan Red Range 11m pole and will fit either the pink or red bungee to it, havent decided yet. I'm thinking the green 6-8 for the other top kit but maybe the yellow.
When cutting done, edges are treated by file, suggest to use a bit cotton wool and elastic threader and pull cotton wool through the top section to be sure there is not a carbonfiber dust. IMHO: the retained dust of fibers will cause accelerated wear of elastic very soon, and once it happened with me. Kind Regards Mark
Marks Oboruns . High good point but I always blow any dust out. When a carbon pole is used they tend to produce carbon dust from wear on the joints. You can buy spray on build-up spray and protective sprays, joint save is a well known one. The carbon dust also accumulates in sections and mixes with dirt, lubricants etc and can prevent elastics running freely. I think most of us should clean our poles and rods especially the joints more often than we do. Tight Lines
Good evening, when I tried to pull cotton wool, even after blowing, I was surprised how dirty was the piece of cotton wool with dust. Re joints in pole sections - yes, you right with spray usage - :) did exactly. But re elastics..... this dust do the wear job even better then sandpaper :) My Daiwa F1 elastic was destroyed within 3 sessions only. You right, it was a "mix of dust and lubricant", very good abrasive media. So, also what was done - for this ( initial) top kit - cleaning with warm water and dish-washing liquid with follow up rinsing, for next top kits I used the pole round brush from " MAVER". After each cleaning stroke - again the brush itself was cleaned with soapy water and rinsed. Re cleaning of joints... there is one idea......to make video how to make clean cups and use it :) I will also think how to make the clean cups at home. Hope, such "researches":) ( pole cleaning, I mean) will be also useful for you, for other anglers :) Kind Regards Mark
Marks Oboruns hi sorry for the delay in replying. I recommend the Drennan poles to beginners because the have foam end caps/joint protectors/ cleaners. For other makes of poles I use Sensas form joint aligners which have a ptfe bush to ease elastic flow. Daiwa poles do neat range of ptfe joint aligners for their models but I believe they are made for their high end UK made poles. Tight Lines
Another use of old elastic is to double it up thread it through a big Olivette and tie knots in both sides of the Olivette with the elastic stretched. Slip your hook inside the elastic between knot and Olivette you now have a very secure plummet!!! Pm me if you need more info. John masterton
when fitting a new bung you inserted the puller then marked it, took it out then cut it one ring lower than your mark but you then pushed it back in and it went back in 5-6 inches in the end of the pole, surely one ring back would not allow the bung to go back in a further 5-6 inches i am puzzeled.
Hi Bill. I don't if know you'll see this at the moment but i'll ask anyway. What's the name of the little black bead you slid on the end of the puller bung just before you tied your double overhand knot? I'm going to fit a puller bung but there wasn't one of those supplied when I bought it. . If I know the name I can look for one. Thanks and Merry Xmas if you see this before the 25th Dec.
Hi there Bill, great videos mate, new to pole fishing and just purchased a pole, but the elastic looks a bit tatty and the previous owner suggested that i get both top end re elasticated, as i'm new to this could you advice what size elastic to start off with, probably want one for light fishing and one for a bit heavier, no doubt after watching your videos i could do it myself, hollow elastic?...solid?....size?...length? Kind regards Alan
Alan Gibson . Hi Alan, well first what pole do you have and more importantly where are you going to be fishing? Commercial fisheries need different elastics to natural venues tho’ there is some overlap. If you get back to me I will be able to advise, also could you tell me if the top kits you have are match tops or power tops. Tight Lines
Morning Bill....well thanks for the reply firstly, i've got a maver deploy 13 m pole, to mainly fish commercials, i'm summising that there just match tops Bill, i've also noticed that the tip on one end slides about 8'' below the tip bush.
Alan Gibson .Hi Alan I’m not familiar with this model but for commercials I would recommend hollow elastics with pull bungs/side pullers and internal ptfe bushes. Using Drennan elastics I would suggest the green 6/8 for silvers and the pink 14/16 for big fish or margin work. If the fish are average size consider the yellow 10/12 as with a pull bung that will land just about anything but the green is well capable of landing good sized carp. On my video from White Acres I managed good fish on a green elastic. Now not everyone likes hollow elastics so if you want them I would suggest an 8 for silvers, a 12 for average fish and a 16 for bigger fish all with pull bungs. In the winter you can use lighter elastics of course as the fish don’t fight as hard and silvers and F1’s are need more finesse. I hope this has helped. Don’t forget to lubricate the elastic. Tight Lines
Saluki Hi if it’s a telescopic model you can’t fit a Puller bung, well you could put one in the middle sections but then you can’t access it with a fish on! This is why I don’t elasticate telescopic whips. I do wish tackle shops would explain things to people better when they are looking for a pole. Some people would recommend fitting elastic in the top section or top two sections, after removing the flick tip but it makes netting fish awkward. Basic rule is telescopic poles are fished with a line about a foot shorter than the pole and fish are swung ‘to hand’ take apart poles are normally fished with elastic and you take of sections to net fish or rebait etc. My suggestion if possible is to get a take apart pole,you don’t need a long one look at my video the short pole part 1. Tight Lines
Easy Fishing Thanks bill. I was out yesterday and could of needed a bung with a few angry carp. Luckily I didn’t loose any fish and took carp and barbel over 5lb mark. The longest battle was around 6 mins, having a bung may of lessened it. The Middy is super at its job and the elastic was spot on. Very well balanced. I’d like to show you my pictures of these carp as I’ve taken a lot of advice from you and it’s paying off. 👍
