I have a CS-360T Echo that has been hard starting and took forever to warm up and just got worse as I used it. I ran accross this video and did the carb limiter tabs for full adjustment and saw still ran like crap after tuning, so I modified the muffler like the video showed and she runs awesome now.
Thanks for posting! Reinstalling the caps is a good idea because the metal screw heads beneath them have rather crude screwdriver slots so the "extension" helps.
Works great. You can screw the wood screw in by hand, and it will give enough bite to pull the plugs. My hobby knife for the tabs, and the thing looks new. Plus, now I have to learn to tune this thing.
I'm pretty sure my 590 puts out more smoke being not 100% tuned properly. EPA is a bunch of morons. They mandated gas cans that spill all over the ground too. I don't think anybody in DC has ever cut wood.
Calibir1 Since the 590 is a slightly tweaked down version of the 600P, this is one of the ways to get the engine to come back to matching the 600’s power since they share the same power head. With this and a couple of minor muffler mods, the 590 will become the 600P in no time. The handle and sprocket are slightly different too, but can be interchangeable for the 600’s. This is all Echo did to make the 590 more affordable vs the 600P.
But the question I have is this: I understand these caps prevent extreme adjustments... but do they make it so you can’t make any adjustments at all. For example, say I have a saw that I’m keeping stock for now but I live at high altitude and all I need to do is a very alight adjustment to compensate for the altitude. Can I still do this with these caps on? Or will the caps keep me from adjusting even a little bit?
All ya have to is turn em until the “limiter starts limiting” lolll.... then turn some more ... the little tab will snap... and you will have full range of your carb adjustment... and it all still looks legit
Where does the broken tab go? Even if the tab doesn't cause issues, you're risking bending the needles. Can this work? yes, but it's not the proper way to do things.✌
bobe8888 bending the needles??? I don’t feel any bind whatsoever.... but I do have the tool to take em out... I did this before I had the tool... but I’m not having any issues at all
tjlovesrachel When you turn the plastic caps, do the adjustment screw below turn with them? Or do you need to reach deeper in order to catch the slots on the metal adjustment screws?
mojo jojo Some saws have external limiters. If so they can often be clipped without removing the carb it's self. You will simply need to look at the to determine this.
is it possible that these with out little they allow the screw to move could potentially be no allowing my carb to lean out enough to be properly running ? because im having serious flooding issues on cold start and i barely can adjust the high and low needles. i usually have no issue tuning a saw what so ever and confident with it. i even have buddies who ask me to tune their saw for them. but this one is a new one, and they say if i want to keep my warranty for the next 2 years that i have to keep them that way and bring it in after a gallon of fuel has been consumed and then im assuming they remove them because they said you bring it in and we'll " adjust the carb for you one last time ".
Your wording of the question is hard to fully understand. If you can't turn the H&L needles freely the limiter are still intact. If that's so it's unlikely the saw is tuned too rich, unless it has been tampered with. I have found flooding issues during starting is often the operators starting procedure, not the saw.✌
@@Andyshine77 Yeah im new with the bigger saws. ive only ever had my 14" echo saw which is pretty much just choke and start yanking. But yeah i guess the good thing is after some practice i've learned the proper procedure and now every time its like the second pull it starts right up. i still would like to take the limiters out but i guess if i want my warranty valid i have to bring it back in after 6 tanks and let them deal with it.
I removed the limiter caps and now I can’t seem to find the right adjusment. It seems to flood out. Can anyone tell me how to adjust the screws correctly? Assume they are turned all the way in....then how far do you turn them out to get optimal performance
H Dale Beggs just turn the em till you hit the stops.... then keep turning till you hear/feel the tabs snap... then your in business .... did it to my ms461r as soon as I brought it home and now it’s running the way it’s supposed to
Hi Bob, Just done the Muffler mode on my brand new 620SX (NEW 590) and it's a completely different animal. Used to an old Mkita 71cc saw which had loads of grunt so wasn't happy with the Echo out the box. Way better now and happy with the 620SX. Can you tell me how to adjust the saw on the carb. There are two screws under the caps which one do you turn to open her out? Thanks
It's easier to find the slots with a screwdriver while the saw running. If you leave the plastic caps off the needles, it's harder to find the screw slots with the screwdriver.
What is the difference between this 590 and the 600p and 620p? I'm having a hard time deciding which to get. I'm leaning towards a 600p or 620 p because of the metal handle and I've heard they have more power stock?
+Nick Kilanowski The 600 and 620 have cylinder porting that is a little different, the ignition coil is unlimited, different carb, and the bar side cover is metal. The cylinder porting, carb and coil, will give the 600 and 620 a little more power than the 590. The difference for most firewood cutters isn't a big deal, and most will opt for the 590. Now if you want to run longer bars over 20" and use the saw every, day you'd be better off with the 600 or 620.
Thanks for the reply! i just went and looked at the IPL for all 3 and the 620p has 2 piston rings while the 600p and 590 have one ring. I just thought this was interesting as i have never seen this difference mentioned. Also, the crank on the 620 is different. I think it has crank stuffers on it too. I figure for roughly $240 more the the 590 and only $80 more then the 600p i may just get the 620p mainly out of curiosity.
+Nick Kilanowski I honestly only looked over all the differences real quick. I do know the 590 and 600 use the same cylinder just a different part number, the 620 has a different cylinder. Having an extra ring means nothing in a two cycle engine other than adding drag. When I port a two ring saw I normally remove the bottom ring to reduce drag. I personally would just buy a 590, mod the muffler and tune the carb properly that will get you the performance of the 620 without the cost. Check out this link for the best information on these saws, lots of info. www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/echo-cs590-timberwolf-cs600-cs600p-cs620-cs620pw-differences.257613/#post-4821309
@@Andyshine77 It doesn't feel or seem hotter than normal at all , it just starts acting like its gonna die and eventually does the i can hear that popping boiling sound in the carb
@@visionsofme8004 The sound is likely coming from the engine through the intake port. To me it sounds like the crank case is getting too hot and burning off the incoming charge, aka the incoming air fuel mixture. I would guess the saw is running lean, try richening the carburetor up some and see if that helps.
