This is the 2nd video in the economizer series and also the 1st of video specific to the JADE controller. This segment covers setup, advanced setup, and setpoints.
Thank you very much for your teaching,I dint get the whole thing I’m slow learner but I will keep watching your videos,thank you and God bless you for your teaching.
Thank you so much . I appreciate the four version series for the economizer setup. I have a quick question how can I access the simulator on the computer so I can set up my economizer ?
You do not have the ability to set the wet bulb. If you have the enthalpy version of JADE, or any other economizer controller, you are picking a "curve." If you look at the curve for JADE, it is controlling to enthalpy setpoint straight line (with the top wet bulb chopped off and the far right dry bulb chopped off. The wet bulb will vary along those lines. It is hard to explain without looking at the curves on a psych chart. But even if you picked the most aggressive enthalpy setpoint (ES1), the highest point that it would ever get for wet bulb would be about 62. If you pick ES2, which we frequently recommend, it would be 59 WB at the highest.
@@TECTubefilms thx for the response. i can reference a psychometric chart, not to familiar with this controller as i do mainly refrigeration racks . im guessing es1, es2 etc is like a b c d on a conventional entalpy controller?
@@dand1486 Yes, the ES curves are sort of like the old ABCD curves, but they are a much different shape. They start horizontal on a dewpoint line, then follow a wet bulb line, then a dry bulb line. Instead of curve like ABCD with suspect situations at the far ends, these new ES curves essentially cut those ends off. We wish we could post pics in the RU-vid chat to show you what we mean.
Hi iam installing 26 of this economizers and on my bp show automatic 24 v damper one for RA and one for Relief air. between the roof and the economizer What terminal I need to use connect the externals dampers ..
This economizer controller... and almost all RTU economizer controllers... have a single modulating output for the damper actuator(s). A motorized exhaust air damper needs to modulate the same direction as the outside air damper (the more you suck in the, the more you need to relieve). The return air damper needs to be wired to do the opposite of the outside and exhaust dampers. So one output can control all three dampers and you just need to switch the rotation (CW or CCW) at the actuators.
3.6v is 20% because it is 20% of the way between 2v and 10v. But a better question would be why do you need 20%. All building codes dictate an OA CFM, not an OA percentage. So do not set minimum code damper position based on %.
Allot to know. You are very informed, thank you for sharing. I have noticed that allot of these controllers and zone boards are not very user/service friendly. This should be an app on the phone where you (the service tech/contractor) can Bluetooth directly in. That way it has better descriptions than whats displayed on this little screen as well as the abbreviations that only make sense to the people who made the darn thing. I know my luck, I will be working on a economizer controller for a computer lab where the co2 sensors are notifying the principles iphone cause the economizer is stuck shut with 200 students in the lab. This would be on a day its raining cats and dogs with alarms and error codes going off and abbreviation that even tech support gets stumped on. Ill probably be curled up under the stuck shut economizer on my phone anyways looking for literature on this controller cause of course the manual is gone. Not trying to bash this beautiful peace of technology, but i would pay a significant amount more for this work of art to allow Bluetooth capability/programming and parameter setting . This goes for all of honeywells controllers and zone boards.
After years of teaching controls classes to technicians, there is one thing we know for certain. The vast majority of mechanical techs do not want anything that has to connect to their phone. Honeywell learned this the hard-way with the first version of the Lyric Round. Techs hated trying to connect it to their phone. We also have Bluetooth connectivity to some of our hydronic pumps and the techs NEVER use it. Adding a Bluetooth chip to a high manufacturing volume product like this would increase the cost for everyone but only be used by a select few. We would rather they solved your concern with an upgraded display and larger processor so the screen on the device itself can give you "help buttons" that essentially include the manual.
