ECU Chip Tune - How To Increase Horsepower 

And he is not annoying one bit! How amazing grown ups can be..

Linustechtips is the worst youtube channel ever.

@@user-fl2ug7sr3t your english thr beddest tho :)

@@danielk3893 Can't you read I spelled it with a "A" and not a "E". I think my English is better than you, even tho my first language is not English.

@@user-fl2ug7sr3t ironic people criticize your English using a bunch of junk english

bwahaha

Ulysse Guillet 156 is dangerous!

and 155 is totally safe!

It is not actually safety these german manufacturers have in mind when limit top speed at 155 mph. The main reason is to reduce cost. A car that can run over that speed will require different brakes, tyres, suspension, aerodynamics and so on. If the engineers let these cars run free, some might cross the 200 mph barrier and then, everything will have to be reengineered and it may compromise the whole Project and make it inviable.

its been proven many times that the speed limiter doesnt really work. they did it on fifth gear.

Ulysse Guillet lol according to BMV manufacturers. Well said lol.

Yes indeed!

Engineering Explained can this work on a oem turbo ?

Thank you!

so it’ll make the drive more fun then

Haha im here for the ECU.. but im big fan of Chiptune ;) Love Dunderpatrullen and Lukas Erikson

What’s up bro??? U trolling on RU-vid now?

Same here, except I was thinking Lay's Sour Cream and Onion.

Lol

Maybe a model 3

wish you still had the subaru :(

You're not going to get dramatically better gas mileage, correct. But as is apparent with the latest VW scandal, engine tuning can allow for more power and more efficiency, for example by running on less EGR (granted, it's illegal and shouldn't be done).

Engineering Explained Thanks mate, got a better idea of ECU tuning, I like your videos cause you explain very well with facts of how things work. Especially the functioning of the turbo charger.

+Ketho Seyie You can always make a car more efficient off load and have more power on load. Manufacturers typically run cars at stoich (14.7) afr for best emissions. Running your car at a afr of near 16 will drastically improve gas mileage. Manufacturers don't do this because this produces more hydrocarbons and that is bad for the environment. Keep in mind that you need to adjust timing and injection timing to make the leaner mixture create power without pre ingition or detonation.

+Ketho Seyie Your ECU can be flashed to deliver more fuel at higher RPMs and deliver less fuel at lower RPMs at cruising speeds. This is usually done on stock powertrain. This does help achieve more power top end and save fuel when you're not mashing on the accelerator. So, in essence, yes there are tuners that can give you better gas efficiency and more power just not at the same time. For example, I have a 2010 Camaro I bought a handheld tuner from Diablosport. There is a tune that gives me better gas mileage at cruising speeds and more HP when I'm "balls to the wall". I achieved between 27-29 mpg on the highway with that tune (my car has the LS3 and 6-speed manual). There was a slight power difference at higher RPMs. Before I upgraded to Long Tube headers, high flow cats, and Axle back exhaust I was getting around 21mph combined. After the upgrade I get around 17-18mpg combined. In retrospect, adding power equates to less mpg. However you can maximize the efficiency and mpg with a conservative tune when you add performance upgrades instead of adding more fuel and that all depends on what your Fuel/Air ratio is when it is tuned. Professional tuners prefer to run a performance engine slightly richer to eliminate the chances of detonation. The reason behind that is the rich fuel/air mixture reduces the combustion temperature. With the reduced combustion temperature your fuel/air mixture is less likely to detonate outside of the combustion chamber which is critical especially in modern day port injected vehicles. A leaner fuel/air mixture yields a higher combustion temperature which would cause fuel to ignite to early and cause damage to your engine. Other factors do apply such as octane rating and ignition timing which also can cause early detonation, engine knock and/or pinging.

+Jason Rochester 16:1 cuts down on hydrocarbons and increased NOx.

I m in same boat v6 but u know what I think if I want tuned engine why not staet with v8 because mostly people or my friends say if u need real muscle car has to b v8

Usually this is a case by case type question, as some engines are overbuilt and some are not. Reading up on forums and seeing the success others have had with individual engines is probably the best way to start. Thanks for the suggestion!

Myspace bro

Herbert Harada Lean A/F supposedly takes longer to burn, thus more heat is put into the block rather than useful mechanical energy.

+snubbedpeer Number 1- never tell the government anything. Number 2- reload original software.

But do you know turbo?

I thought it was German law, at least for the ones sold there.

According to the Wikipedia (which may be wrong) "BMW, Mercedes and others have entered a Gentlemen's agreement to a limit of 250 km/h (155 mph), but may 'unhook' their speed limited cars in Europe, and Mercedes will provide some vehicles in the USA without limiters for an additional price", with 2 external references. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Speed_limiter This implies that there is no legal requirement in Germany (or elsewhere in Europe) for the vehicle to be speed restricted.

probably just another way they can make money on their performance models by charging 6 times the actual cost of removing the limiter.

I had to look up VAG on wikipedia to find out it stands for VW... For a second I thought you were talking about the Freiburger Verkehrs AG (VAG) hahaa

+Damian Wezzterman Whether your... what... is in the mountains? (Which possession? Your vehicle [in which you would've said "...or it's on the coastline"]? Or were you trying to refer to another one of our possessions? If so, which one?

Trevor Natisin OBD2

Franjluna74 Well I'll probably sound like a dad but I don't spend much on parts, at all. Depending on what your goals are, many of the investments are poor (not to mention it will not increase the value of your car). When I was 17 I saved all of my money, and didn't do a thing to my Integra. It's a great car as is. :)

1st step...sell mustang 2nd step... buy one with a v8

Nicks Customs Lol the only sure guaranteed possiblity for both performance and reliablity at the same time. Might ask you also will cost a lot in gas but the performance will be there no doubt :)

Thats kinda sad. My 4x4 explorer sport 4.0 will beat your mustang at any race aside from track. Pushing around 300hp at the wheels in 4x4. 4.3l stroker crank,ported and polished the heads,ecu and timing tune,and a 3.5psi supercharger. (I can switch a pulley and go to 5.5lbs,or 8.5lbs) My trucks mods weren't put in for racing either. With locking differentials (front,rear and center), 4.10:1 finals,transmission rebuilt with a heavy duty kit and a shift kit,transfer case rebuilt to heavy duty specs,dual caliper brakes all around and still on 17" rims. (Stock tire size,aftermarket rims)...designed to tow,and to do it in any scenario. (5000lbs max offroad, 9,000lbs highway,11k city (less than 15 miles) 0-60 in 5.8seconds quarter mile in 15. Top speed is unchanged from factory. 117.9 tops out,5500rpm in 3rd gear. Rev limit moved to 6750rpm. (Mainly for 4-lo to have a bit better acceleration through shifting.) My advise would be to start off simple. Get a dyno tune and a timing tune. Then before you get any performance upgrade make sure the transmission is up to the task,the motor mounts,head gaskets,any thing that could fail pretty much. From stock the first thing I did was a twin opening throttle body that gained me about 6hp and 5lb-ft,was mostly done becuase I replaced the stock one after it failed,and I wanted a bit more overall air flow for the stroker crank to shine. After the TB I rebuilt the transmission (wasn't in any state of disarray when I did it) After the transmission I put a high stall torque converter in,and rebuilt the transfer case. After that replaced the axles to something much stronger,new driveshafts and heavy duty ujoints and CV joints. Then we regeared it from 3.27 to 4.10,that was the biggest feel of the pants change,especially at highway speeds. After that we put the stroker crank in,ported and polished the heads and re tuned it again for more torque from 2500-5500rpms. (Gained about 15lbs through the curve from the tune alone,and about 25 from the new crank) After that we replaced the pistons and connecting rods with heavy duty performance ones. Raised the compression ever so slightly from stock 9.7:1 to 10:1,and started preparation for the supercharger. (Eaton m112,dont remember what year) Performance high flow fuel injectors,high flow fuel pump,NGK Iridium spark plugs and a air to water intercooler had to be fabbed up. (Planned maximum boost is 10psi with a drop to 9.2-9.5:1 compression) Supercharger installed,current pulley installed will net me 5.5lbs of boost but we purge it to 3.5psi,really aiming at the low rpm torque more than anything else. I have a pair of garret gt1549 billet rebuilt turbochargers I plan on using in the future i n conjunction with the supercharger. (Max boost then would be 15psi) But I got lucky and I live less than half a mile away from a gas station that sells 110 octane fuel. Key advise no matter what route you go for adding performance to a car, is to simply do it right. Dont skimp on the little things becuase when they fail you have much larger issues. (Like leaning out at high rpms with a supercharger melting your pistons becuase your running 7psi of boost and still using stock injectors and a stock fuel pump,but you tuned it and raised the rev limiter by +1200rpms. *note* My truck also has a heavy duty copper radiator,and heavy duty copper transmission cooler installed,running alongside the stock ones.