This video is good for the amateur that doesn't know what he's doing. Very descriptive and easy to understand. I was able to follow these easy steps and reassemble my carburetor and get my car working again
Thank you Chris for this very informative and educational but fun video! I appreciate the down to earth commentary and the clear concise wording without rapping yelling in the background
Good stuff man. Probably tearing into my 1405 this weekend and didn't expect it to be extraordinarily difficult having been into some motorcycle carbs before but also didn't know what to expect. Some good tips in here.
Edelbrock now offers a spring loaded needle and seat instead of the clip he didn't have a second one of for off road if anyone is interested. #1465 Also the gasket over the metering rods is not needed. Notice the hole in the side of the metering rods tower.
The secondaries DO have an accelerator pump, it works using the vacuum that is formed in the secondaries just at the point where the secondary butterflies open but when the air valve above them is still closed. If you look at the secondary boosters you can see a jet/jet-tube right next to the emulsion tube, this jet feeds a discharge nozzle that it just slightly lower than the air valve flap. When you floor the throttle just for a fraction of a second the secondary butterflies will be open but the air valve is still closed, this creates enough vacuum to pull fuel from the discharge nozzle which richens the mixture up. i.e. it's an accelerator pump or at least its a mixture enrichment system for the secondaries. The fuel channel at the back of the carb does more harm than good, there is no way that it helps you if one of your float valves gets stuck shut because the other float will shut off BEFORE the fuel level gets high enough for fuel to flow along the channel to the other float bowl, the 'working' float could only ever do this if it was stuck open or setup at the wrong height. The channel does allow fuel to flow from one bowl to the other when corning hard which is a pain in the ass. People in the 'know' block the channel off. By the way, the numbers on the rods are actually the two diameter sizes of the rod in thou-of-an-inch. the smaller number is the diameter at the tip of the rod which is the acceleration circuit of the primaries, the second number is for the cruise circuit. The jet numbers are also the diameter, a 383 jet is a 3 series jet and its diameter is 83 thou. A 407 is a jet which is over 100 thou in diameter, in this case 107 thou, (jets generally go up in 3 thou steps with the odd exception). You can compare any jet and rod combo against another if you work out the flow area, basically work out the jet area and the two rod areas, subtract the rod area's from the jet and you have the two flow areas for that combo. This is a tedious process but luckily someone wrote me a Microsoft XL spreadsheet that does this for me, it gives the percentage difference between any jet and rod combo compared to the stock setting. Using this spreadsheet I found that Edelbrock have made several errors in their jet-rod charts! My spreadsheet only takes into account the flow area, in the real world the amount of 'wall area' for the annular shaped hole (ring shaped hole) that the fuel flows though will have some effect but I doubt that Edelbrock worried about this either!
Good info and very good observation on the back channel. I think you are right. Hmmm... What was its main purpose, then? A little splash around? Did the original Carters have them? If so, there must be a reason... Thanks for the full write up, Sidecarbod.
Good job! Now I feel like I have a better understanding of the carter edelbrock carbs. The first hot rod I had I put a holley on it and learned the holley. After I thought I had a good handle on the holley, I just never got into the others. Laziness I guess.
I had 2 of the cheap plastic filters separate from using E10 gas. I switched to 100% gas and haven't had a problem so far. I was afraid of the Mr Gasket glass filters because people say the O rings go bad and will leak.
Hello, Mr. Stephens, I have that Mr. Gasket (prob generic Chinese , now) glass filter from the 80s/90s when the Bug was my ride. I kept it after I got Betsy ready for sale. I transferred it and have used it since the mid-90s. All good. Believe it or not, the original "white" plastic filter turned yellow, but, never split. Last summer, I just decided to buy three-pack replacements. White. Today, I just uncovered it from thermal barrier and found it still nice and white, but, split like a banana peel It had "lengthened" and split. I should have kept the original filter insert. My experience. Good luck.
@ChrisCraft I used part 1 and 2 of your videos to rebuild my 1405, both great videos...👍🏾❤🎯‼💯 But why exactly don't you need the choke since you live in Houston ? Because of the hot air ? Trying to understand what you meant by that... I live in northeastern Oklahoma, and I have an electric choke assembly... Do I need it ? Or what factors depend on if I do or not ? Adjusting it sucks lol so if I don't need one, I'd like to take it off... Thanks.
@@chriscraft77022 any downsides or cons to running one without it ? It gets below 0 here some winters but not all, and lately over the last few years winter has been pretty warmer than usual... I'll try it sometime soon after I install this rebuild and test run it and see how things go, thanks again for the videos.
Question: Are the primary and secondary jets the same thread and profile for this carb....or ...are the secondary jets different in any way? I cannot find secondary jets on Edelbrocks website so I'm wondering if they are the same just with different hole sizes for a particular jet number. Or to put it simpler....can the primary jets be installed in the secondary jets threaded hole?
Put a two barrel carburetor and it still didn’t want to start I got fire and distributor number one up wires are all sequence start ones and then it don’t start
