how to rebuild carter edelbrock carburetor 

I have 2 newer edelbrock videos that are better and have more info on my channel

ask me any questions... to hear it start on the first try watch my cam break in part 2

check out my newer video part 2 it goes over more stuff

I got 2 newer videos on the edelbrock rebuild check them out.. (better videos)

just make sure you soak it in the chem dip and blow the passages out those are actually the most important..see carb run at end of cam break in part 2

Damn straight

I dont care but check out my 2 newer edelbrock videos.. they are way better and go over more

+WastedSpinhead mine was doing that too, went to the speed shop and they told me to get a spring kit for the metering rods, 4 sets of color coded springs with a chart on the back of the package, started with the heavy springs and kept swapping them out with lighter spring until it worked

the only reason it says to adjust with the gasket is because if you don’t you have to take the floats back off to get the gasket on.. it doesn’t effect the float adjustment in any way..

yes you are.. but it doesnt matter if you dont use the gasket...

@@chriscraft77022 It does matter if you want to get the float height set to the value that Edelbrock specify! Having said that these carbs suffer from a rich bog when braking hard (and cornering hard). If you set the float height about 3mm higher than specified (at around 14mm) it will reduce the fuel height which helps stop the rich bog. The reduced fuel height has very little affect on the carbs other fuel circuits. If the carb does not sit level on the engine using a wedge plate also helps.

@@sidecarbod1441 the rich bog when the car shakes is because the damn fuel runs out of the bowls and the only place it can go by design is down to the intake.. nothing to do with float adjustment.. ive been running them for 15 years on all my cars.. i did finally make the switch to holley in 2017

YUP!

the reason for that is because you cant put the gasket on after the floats are installed... it does not matter

+Rich B. They used to not come with those screens... that is why I wasn't sure.. you don't even need to run them.. I never did for 10 years

I need to try Coca Cola...

isn’t that what I ended up doing? they used to not have those screens in the rebuild kit and I didn’t look at the instruction..

I've never worked on a carb before but i would check the bore that the plunger sits it. if it ain't smooth, there's your problem. also, your pump jets might be clogged causing an over pressurization of the plunger seal. just a wild guess

ive built about 20 different carbs in my life and never had that problem.... throw the carb in the trash... it has to be a casting issue

that carb is probably 30 years old .. they all do that eventually

I think it’s a (1407 - i don’t know carter number- I could be wrong ) 750cfm manual choke..

gas smell maybe.. it would evaporate from the fuel bowls maybe... I don't know but ptabably little stuff like that .. maybe a littlr bad gas milage

+Chris Craft thanks for the speedy response lol.

+Chris Craft so randomly my truck started starving for fuel in 2nd and 3rd gear, idk why, can't recall what I did during the time it started acting weird. but I took it apart and cleaned it out cause damn was it dirty but that didn't fix it, I noticed today that one of the idle screws didn't change the idle when I moved it idk what problems that can cause? and I also didn't take the top half apart, I didn't think there were screens in there so maybe they got stuff in em? I'm ordering a rebuild kit and doing it over. only thing I forgot was that bb and weight thing but that shouldn't be the cause of the starvation of fuel.

If you forget the weight and BB then the vacuum in the carb will cause fuel to continually flow from the accelerator pump, not very good really!

@@chriscraft77022What will actually happen is that the vacuum in the primary venturies will continually 'pull' fuel from the accelerator circuit which means that you engine will run rich. (Fat as you guys call it)

I use the one on the right..

After some research I found that Edelbrock only has one horn gasket for all their square bore carbs. Not sure what the second one is for either now.

the gasket on left is for marine carburetors, I think

I don't know about that. As I said I researched and scrubbed Edelbrock's website and the only gasket they have is the one you used and they say it is used on all their square bore carbs (Marine and Auto). To be honest what I'm trying to find out is the difference between the venting for the street carbs and the venting of the marine carbs. So far I can find no difference. Tower is the same, gaskets are the same. Guess I will have to take apart my 750 marine and compare it to my new 800 (1913) when it shows.

I'm pretty sure it's Bad Wings by The Glitch Mob.

@@Jonisli awesome thanks for the help. it sucks not knowing the name of a song lol

Shiny carb= 750 bucks, rebuild kit=60 bucks , he also said he has had this carb sitting around for awhile. hope that helps

If you are bothered about shinny stuff then stick the Enduro shine version of the carb on your car.

yeah, i know... it got demonetized for that

Get over yourself

@@david65711 The swearing may not be technically useful, but it does add a sense of humanity, as the way we all have been at one time or another, especially on new tasks. I could go either way, but a hint of it works for me to help me identify with what's real.

@@rexosteen5451 I was talking about the folks that don't like the swearing

I agree that swearing oversteps the bounds of civility.@@david65711

+Lauren Siemens ..............are you saying it is ugly because it is not shiny? or do you just not like carters? i personally dont think its the best looking carb out there.... but ive never judged a carb for its looks.... i judge them for their dependability....

Dumbasss people run what they have..not everyone needs good lookin shit..ill outrun a shiny car all day long in a ugly motor..