Edward Green Shoe Review - Black Cap Toe Oxford with Kirby Allison
The Edward Green “Chelsea” cap-toe oxford is as classic an English shoe as it comes. A company as old as Edward Green doesn’t become known as one of the world’s greatest English shoemakers without an absolutely exceptional cap-toe oxford.
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A captoe oxford, especially a black captoe oxford, is the most versatile and elegant shoe a man can own. It’s a simple design, lack of brouging, and closed oxford lacing, combine to create a silhouette of unparalleled beauty. This shoe is not subject to the whims of fashion; it will be in style forever. It can be easily worn with a suit, tuxedo, or jeans, and is never inappropriate.
The Chelsea is distinguished with a ‘swan’s neck’ stitch pattern down the facing. This was a detail that John Hlustik, who purchased Edward Green in the 1980's, revived from shoes Edward Green manufactured in the 1930s. This small design hallmark gives the otherwise conservative captoe oxford an additional visual detail and elegance.
CONSTRUCTION
Edward Green prides themselves on using the highest quality leathers from the uppers to the soles. The uppers are sewn with the highest-grade French and Italian calfskins on the market. Ensuring that the shoes will not only be incredibly handsome from the start, but also age and patina equally well. The uppers are hand-clicked, or cut out by hand, allowing the clickers to avoid any natural blemishes and use only the best areas of the hide.
The outsoles on the Chelsea, and on all Edward Green leather soled shoes, are traditional Oak Bark Tanned leathers are tanned in pits for nine months in a solution of oak, spruce, and mimosa barks. The result is an incredibly durable, water-resistant leather outsole that lasts three to five times longer than ordinary outsoles. Leather outsoles also allow additional breathability, helping the shoe better-regulate moisture and temperature through the day. The result is a leather outsole of unequaled comfort and durability.
Edward Green also builds additional structure into their shoes using leather stiffeners, which are hard leather pieces inserted between the upper and the lining. The additional structure is important not only for creating a more comfortable shoe, especially through the arch but helps control unnecessary creasing, which inevitably makes a pair of shoes look old and worn.
The level of finishing on a pair of Edward Green shoes is as one would expect - exceptional. The outsoles are expertly crafted closed channel stitch with high sole stitch density. Brass heal embellishments, as well as a very nice swan neck stitching. All of the edges and heels are dyed and highly-polished.
The single needle stitching, with its high stitch density, increases the clean lines and formality of this shoe. Each upper is sewn together by hand with incredible precision. Just look at the single-needle stitch density and its proximity to the edge of the cap. It’s nothing short of amazing. One of the advantages of a high-quality, factory-made shoe is, of course, it’s the consistency of construction.
AVAILABLE SIZES AND FIT
One of the great pleasures of owning a pair of Edward Green shoes is that most customers are able to find a really well-suited fit/last combination, which ensures their shoes are as comfortable as they are elegant and well-made. Because we all know that at the end of the day, the true measure of a great pair of shoes is how comfortable our feet are.
Edward Green’s lasts are stylish and well-balanced but have very much been designed with fit in mind. The number 202 is their classic, English last, and is available in the widest number of width fittings: from C through G; the number 82 is a timeless almond last; and the number 915, their widest last, is a more modern-walled almond-toe.
As far as sizing is concerned, it is important to note that UK shoe size ½ size smaller than the equivalent US shoe. So, if you are a 9.5 in an American shoe, such as Allen Edmonds, you would want to purchase a UK 9.0. The same is true for widths. A UK E width is equivalent to a standard US D.
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6 июл 2024
