Egr tube and aiv tube can get perfectly plugged with a nickel, if u can remove the nut. Remove the nut, pull the pipe, cut the pipe, remove nut from the pipe, insert nickel, seal with pipe nut. Saw it on local losers, gave it a shot, and it's PERFECT!
I was able to easily fabricate an EGR block of plate for my 720 with some scrap metal and using the EGR valve as a template to cut the shape and locate the mounting holes.
To cut the EGR pipe I used a tool that they sell at auto-zone it’s probably called a brake line cutter or maybe not. But it definitely worked on the EGR tubing, the other one was rusted out for me leaving an exhaust leak so that’s another reason why I deleted the system.
On the exhaust side there are a couple vacuum lines and connections that you do not need, I forgot to mention them. The only ones you need would be the butterfly connection if you still want it, and the one that goes to the fuel pressure regulator.
I did the lower egr tube cut and plug but just left everything plugged up as normal and now my motor has a shake to it is that bad or how to I get it so my motor doesn’t shake so much
@@SarjentStupid can you make a short clip showing what I need to cap off? I’m not much of a mechanic I just have to work on my own truck out of money issues and can’t find much information on what needs capped
Honestly I’m not sure I have check engine light as well but never pulled codes because it’s a flash system. I will one day but during the time I didn’t know much about it and was looking for an OBD1 connector which doesn’t exist really anymore which is why the OBD2 port got standardized. Basically you have to count the number of times the light flashes and it corresponds with a trouble code. I think 96 and up got OBD2 ports
Not sure I have a 95 so it doesn’t have the standard OBD2 port. To pull codes I have to watch a couple lights flash and then count the amount of times one of them has flashed.
Interesting I would definitely play with the butterfly valve or check for exhaust leaks. If you messed with the TPMS sensor the thing has to be clocked a specific way so that the resistance reading is correct. I didn’t get to do this yet because I’m going to school now and don’t have access to the truck. Im a student at UTI and am trying to because an automotive tech. I just finished one electrical course and got an 93% percent so I’m just now learning electricity and didn’t mess with it too much before but I do know the TPS sensor has to be set using a DMM I can make video on this soon. If this is off it will idle wrong but I’m not sure if it will lose power in the lower RPM range. The only other thing I can think of is timing
Originally I thought it’d reduce heat because fresh air would be coming into the system and not hot exhaust gas. I’ve learned that this is not the case, this is because the exhaust gas is inert meaning it’s less combustible so it would create less heat during combustion. Pros: It is a cleaner system without the exhaust gas and more power but not a lot of power gains. On these vehicles it cleans up the engine bay a ton and takes away failure points when it comes to an intake or exhaust leak. These vehicles are old and these systems either need redone or deleted to have a better running engine. The egr system can have good effects like heat management and fuel mileage but that’s when they work as intended. In my vehicle I noticed it had a tone of carbon build up so much that it was plugging up oil galleries in the system which can lead to way bigger problems.
The benefits of this are cleaner looking engine bay. And the engine theoretically should run cooler. The EGR system takes some exhaust gas and flows it back into the intake and cylinders for a second round of combustion creating cleaner air for emissions. The exhaust gas is obviously hot so thus it should run cooler if it’s just clean air going into the cylinders. And exhaust gas would cause more carbon build up in the system so it should keep the engine cleaner as well. Also if you do a aftermarket exhaust and header set up or turbo set up you may have to delete the egr system anyway.
@@Jo_Speedhey I cut and plugged the lower egr tube and plugged it bc it was seized like yours and now my motor shakes and it didn’t before how do I fix or is there some rerouting I need to do?
@@krissvector8841 you motor might shake because of a bad engine mount or bad timing. An EGR delete shouldn’t do that to your vehicle. It doesn’t change your idle at all as long as you don’t have any intake or exhaust leaks
@@Jo_Speed The egr exists so you can get better fuel mileage in stop and go conditions. The inert exhaust gas takes up space in the cylinder effectively reducing the size of the engine and reducing the amount of gas needed to keep the engine running while at idle. I can see where someone would want to delete all this crap if it was old and rusty and leaking, but if you think you are going to improve your engine performance by simply deleting egr, you're wrong ... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Bnpj4eIo6nI.html
lol ka24e, the d21 got the single cam and d22/frontier got the DE which is dual over head came. z24 was only in d21s up until the 1989. This truck also gets a diesel engine but those are rare. The z24 doesn’t look nearly as good as ka24e and honestly I think the single cam looks better than the dual over head cam with the valve cover and stuff but we should all know the DHOC is better.
Emission laws vary between states but also the vehicle is over 25 years old so it doesn’t need to get tested. I simply just get a new tag when needed. I can also get specific plates because my vehicle is considered a classic and the DMV has special plates for these kinds of vehicles.
