Three simple, cheap mods that you can do to your set of Elac Debut B5.2 or B6.2. Great set of speakers (the best in price category!) that can be improved with little cost. Sound demo here: • Modded Elac Debut B5.2...
Hi there, just wanted to say thank you for posting this tutorial. I've upgraded my debut 2.0 6.2 using your guide and good speakers are now great speakers. Cheers🎉
Many thanks for this, very useful. I thought my Debut's had been lacking something. Tweeter grille now removed, but what has really made a difference is the dampening of the steel speaker basket. I used dense rubber foam fixed with extra strong double sided tape, on every bit of the steel, not just the 4 brackets. Bass is easily noticeable to be lower & tighter. Very happy already & still have caps to consider.
That's great! I'm happy that you enjoy them more now! Do consider caps - this is the final touch (or maybe almost final, as there are also resistors that can be upgraded ;) )
Wow! If only Andrew had this awesome knowledge to add 5 dollars worth of dampening! Someone should show him this video ASAP and the before and after measurements that prove the bass is better so he can us this in future projects !!!
@@patrickmiller4987 I don't disgree, however speaker manufacturing is all about cost and meeting a consumer price point. Andrew has MUCHO trainig and years of experience so I'm confident he knows these things. It's just not in the budget for this model. Just FYI, Andrew no longer works at ELAC.
@@robertgartner6072I dont believe he decided against a few dollars of dampening when it could of made them sooo much better!? He's showing off his MoFi towers at the moment. People tend to like changing things and are biased towards hearing an improved response because they want to and made an effort when in reality they cant remember what they heard initially and could of moved the speakers around the room for a different response. Id bet Andrew would hear it and say " thats not an improvement IMO"! Would love to see two sets of same speakers with and without changes measured in same spot volume matched to 1dB and a double blind test done. To each their own though! Take care!
@@k4syx I have listened for a while now and they do exactly what you said they would. They add “air” and smooth (balance) the highs. Really great mod dude. I salute you.
@@stewvox4797 it should just go away with the driver after the screws had been removed. If it doesn't, try to pry it with something thin and flat (like butter knife) from the inside of the ring, slowly work your way around step by step. Sometimes it can be a tight fit there
Many reviewers say that these Elacs (even in stock form) are great candidates & "really benefit" from high/higher quality ($2K to $5Kish amps). BTW, I'm just using a "well-reviewed" $500 integrated with mine and I'm pretty satisfied but would love to hear them with these mods and a better integrated amp.
The price of an amp does not represent its sound quality. A lot of high end products add distortion and or change the freq. response slightly to add warmth etc to stand out from others. Which means we are paying a high price for a not so accurate product.
Changing the yellow capacitor will make a lot of difference. Other than Jantzen, you can try GAD, Solen (good value for money) or Mundorf Oil (if you can willing to spend more). Another upgrade is changing all the internal wiring. I prefer to use Gotham speaker wire, the same type you can use for connecting the speaker to your power amplifier.
Yes, you're right, however by then the price of the new components gets comparable to the speakers price;) Where I can I am using a combination of Jantzen silver or red and Mundorf Silver in oil - best of both worlds
Great tips. I made the mod and I believe it sounds better. I also use this matt on all the case work for my cd transport. My amp and dac and my rega turntable. It works. I might change the capacitors to the jantsen
I'm glad you like it. This matt is great for damping all unwanted vibrations as long as there is enough space for it. Sometimes I'm using it to dampen the whole speaker boxes in case of very cheap stereo sets with very light and thin cases.
I did these changes plus I rebuilt the whole crossover with high quality parts and lined each box with dampening material. It's a completely different speaker now and worth $400 more.
It looks like the capacitor you added is soldered right into the same spots as the "yellow" capacitor. Am I understanding correctly? I know very little about electronics but I can operate a soldering iron. I'd like to give it a shot. Thanks!
Hi, thanks for posting this video. Do you think it would sound better if we add some resistor to lower the treble around 1 db? I am considering to build a brand new crossover but cant find spec list of original components nor any FRD data for those drivers. How do you come up with that z-cap?
Hi! I don't find them bright, so adding R to treble would be just for your sound preference (which is fine). As for the bypass this is standard technique for getting better result with better cap without replacing original, which would be quite expensive. As for the value the standard is to use 1/100 of the original value. This way you are also staying (more or less) within original value - they are usually +/-5% anyway - so there should be no real effect on the crossover points.
I've tried it and listened to it for a month now, pretty decent upgrade. The top end is clearer, i use 10inch sub to add some oomph for low end and the result is great.
I prefer the 3d soundtage and bass extension of my original debut 5. Also modded for a few dollars. The debut v2 might have better imaging. Pick what you prefer.
Hi and thanks for the video. Why did you keep the original capacitor in place ? By adding a new one you've changed the filter's cutting frequency. What was the value of the original capacitor ? Thanks again
Hi! Replacing stock one would be more expensive, the effect would be better, but still: these are not expensive speakers so I try to stay on cheap. As for the filter freq original cap is +/-10%, so as long as bypass is below 10% of the nominal stock value (like 5%) it doesnt affect filter more than production error. But bypass is way cheaper and 70-80% effective compared to direct replacement. As for the stock value, Im sorry - I just dont remember. If its not visible in video, or you cant hear me saying aloud the value in the video, you may try to ask here in the comments, maybe someone else will remember.
Great video! I do have a question. Would it be ok to stabilize the Jantzen cap against the woofer coil using Blu Tack? I think I would find it easier to solder if the new cap were stable. Can the Blu Tack be left in place permanently or would I be better to use a hot glue gun?
Yes, actually blue tack would be a good idea to dampen some vibrations on the capacitor so you may leave it there. It won't do anything bad to cap. Hot glue on the other hand may be too hot for capacitor, and it will be difficult to remove. It will also not help with vibrations.
Only if you'll connect that directly to drivers, bypassing internal crossover completely. And then I would still recommend doing two other mods, that is removing treble grille and dampening mid driver basket. Won't using the active crossover on these be too expensive?
Thanks for the reply, yes, I will definitely use the 2 mods. I am able to use an active Xover because I own it from previous PA work otherwise I would not want to invest that type of money to biamping the Elacs. Appreciate your response, I'm looking for data on the Xover point that Andrew Jones uses for these drivers.
@@ivandjdocrodriguez you may try to look for frequency measurements, xover point should be somewhat visible. Also gr mods (I think that's what they are called) would have these graphs for upgraded xover, these could be even better for you if you're looking just for the specific frequency
It's easy job, capacitors like that do not have part numbers: you need only voltage and capacity, it should be in the video description and it's visible in the video as fast as I remember
Hello< I just bought the elac debut B6.2? I am wondering about the capacitor - I believed you said you bridged them? How will I know which Janzen to buy to bridge them? Is bridging just Soldering to the stock capacitor connectors? I really would like to do this upgrade. Thanks.
@@christopherspiro9857 Yes bridging is just soldering to the same contacts as you may see in my video. you may use the same capacitor as I did as this is just a bridge. Go for it, its easy!
@@k4syx thank you. I’m going to open the back when I have time (very busy now) so I guess the tweeter cap is the same size for the 6.2 ? And can just use the same cap as you did. I see someone just completed the modification on their 6.2 so I’m guessing it’s the same cap as you used. Thanks again! Sorry very new to this. Ha!
For the dampening look for "Dynamat" or "STP" butyl mats (or any butyl car audio mat that you can buy close to you). As for the crossover its just soldering additional cap in parallel to the one thats already there: the vid would be about soldering 2 points ;)
Why did you add another capacitor in parallel instead of replacing the original one with a Jantzen of the same value? I have Elac DBR62 and am considering this aswell. Thanks for the tip!@@k4syx
@@wyup Hi! Check my full reply to the same question in comments below. Short answer: keeping the costs low. 6.2 are also great speakers and the same mods can be applied with great results - go for it :)
I did only dampening of the speaker basket ( all 4 parts with butyl matt) and it really works - bass is much more stronger. I do not need to buy subwoofer now.
Removing the tweeter grilles makes the speakers too harsh, bright, forward upper mid and really fatiguing after an hour of listening.. Of course this is a matter of taste, but Andrew Johnes wouldn't put this grill with that strange shape if it would be better without it.
I guess that's a matter of taste and pairing with amp and source. But for this particular mod there are measurements (freq response) that show the highs actually get flatter and even. I guess that grille is also for protection (as anyone who had B&W 60x series can confirm :D )
