COOL STUFF!!! Investigating faults on old EVs is FAR MORE INTERESTING than presenting new EVs 🙂 These cars deserve a second chance after a lifetime of serving their owners.
@@Metalmassacre07 Maybe the "lifetime" with the first owner? These days people tend to change the car every 5 years, ideally right before warranty expires so it might not be that far fetched and not really something to do with it being an EV either.
@@Metalmassacre07most people often means most people wich buy new and the number is getting smaller. In Germany now down to 34% from all new car purchases. Most cars end used as company cars wich are 2-3 years old. My first car was used. Had it 4 years. One without a car and my second car ever I bought 2006 somewhat new. A second car in 2018 but was used. It is now a little small but we cope with it for the moment.
@@Metalmassacre07 "meatshielding copium" TF does this even mean? The first mass produced EVs are barely turning 10 years now. Based on what exactly are you assuming they won't as long as ICE cars? Early Model Ss are doing just fine and they are made by a company with little experience (at that time) making cars. 10 year old Leafs are also usable but have their batteries degraded more thanks to Nissan's decision to passively cool them. Also, don't think ICE car manufacturers are targeting 20-30 years of life. Let me remind you of the "lifetime" transmission fluid of BMW that the OEM of the transmission(ZF) states it should be changed at 100k km or 8 years. Cars make it to 20-30 years of life because of their owners not their powertrains.
Exactly. Because if you connect the negative first, then strike anything grounded with the positive lead, all kind of shieeert can and probably will happen, like welded terminals and RUD of the booster
Tegra is MCU1, Intel is MCU2. To get LTE all you upgrade is the GSM modem inside the big screen called CID. Also week 12V can give you so many false positive alerts and errors.
+ first + is just a small point, while - is pretty much all metal. If you connect - first, you may touch the + lead to some - metal and bad things will happen. Hovewer if you connect + first, and touch some - metal on your way to the + stud, nothing happens as it isn't a closed circuit Other than that, it really doesn't matter.
This is a common issue, if you can find the cell or cell that is imbalanced, you will bring back the whole pack with full range. They limit charging to 50 miles in the meantime.
As seen here " World's Cheapest Tesla | Gruber Motors " they found 1 cell that was out of spec thus cut it`s + - connectors and the car was fully functional..
@@spankeyfishon the other hand, it won’t happen as often with newer cells + they are cheaper now than they were ten years ago so the economic benefit of doing that kind of skilled troubleshooting and manual repair is questionable.
This Model S will be a very nice car to own and drive after Elbilmek fixes it, not to mention very historically significant. Very interesting video, I can't wait for part 2! 😀
€7-8k for a "fix", or €11-12k for a brand new battery? Considering the rest of the battery is 9 years old, taking a brand new battery is the obvious choice (if you can afford the extra ~€4-5k).
A completely new battery (which you won't get anymore from Tesla) is around €20k. More if you don't want to let them have your original. €12k is refurbished battery from Tesla, which is basically the same as these guys do for half the price.
A couple years ago I heared that you explicitly tell tesla you want a new battery. It then gets upgraded to the 90 pack (old cars can't handle the extra weight of the 100). Not quite sure about the price but it wasn't much more then a refurb.
Tesla battery pricing always includes the core in the price. Thus a refurb pack is 12k€, new 20k€+ and without a core +10k€. I dunno if you can even get a new battery "without a core" or keeping the old one yourself. I've never heard of such an example, only about packs which were "beyond repair" but still went to Tesla lol.
Every Model S has the aircondition drip on the battery area, thereby damaging parts of the high voltage battery. But this seems like a bad cell. Almost 1 year before the warranty went out on my MS, the car died with fault in high voltage battery. Tesla had it at the SC for a few weeks for battery swap or fix and they fixed it instead.
That KFC error is for Autosteer (EPAS), all early models getting this error because it doesn't have Autosteer, so Tesla thinks something is wrong with it 😅
Connect minus first as there is a positive plane and the negative side is switched and used for powering. So in affect negative is positive and positive is negative.
I would connect "+" first because if you happen to touch the chassis with the "-" connected you short the booster. Of course the booster may not deliver juice until you power it on but if you use jumper wires from a live battery there may be an issue.
It is not correct to connect the negative terminal first. If you do so you could accidently cause a short circuit with the positive terminal if you hit some metal bits of the body. This is not possible if you connect the positive side first.
the voltage differences in the cells look so small... very interesting that this HV battery already needs repair. I would have thought that those differences would have to be much higher than that. but the car was sitting for 2 days... probably after discharging or charging the difference would be bigger.
I think the market for used EV's will be huge in the coming years starting right now. Prices drop and more and more people will be able to afford one. So these video's are GOLD! They show that EV's actualy can be fixed and that does so much for acceptance! Except for SUN readers of course, they will have to take the bus at some point.
Assuming it can be fixed and there is just one problem module, it will be interesting to see how much degradation a 9 yr old low-miles battery has experienced. I am sure there is a large block of potential EV owners as keen as I am to find this out.
I got curious, so I just checked second hand market here in Sweden. Cheapest Tesla model S is a 2014 Tesla with over 600000km (yes, batterys and motors etc have been replaced)... its also been involved in accidents which are not fully repaired.. and they still want $20k.. what? :D (can add that here is a another one in good shape, only 170000 with free supercharging for $3k more only)
There are many factors contributing to this. New car prices shooting up results in old car prices doing the same. Inflation is a thing. It being an EV helps, especially compared to other full size, luxury cars from the same year.
All very well but here in the U.K. the insurance for EVs has recently more than doubled and in some cases a lot more than that. It’s no wonder as the parts cost is ridiculous and incredibly slow in obtaining, along with hardly any third party garages willing or able to take in any insurance work.
Connect + or - first? I heard that when you connect to the battery itself, you connect + first directly to the battery - as there is no where else to put it. Then you put - somewhere else on the car frame. The reason I was given was that lead-acid batteries might cause flammable gasses and connecting 12v will cause sparks. So you want that sparking away from the battery, so you close the circuit somewhere else on the car.
I don't know why are people hateing videos about a 10-year-old Tesla S, which has low mileage and apart from a damaged drive battery, seems to be in very good condition. One probably still need to take care of the suspension and can drive for another few years in a comfortable and fast car for relatively reasonable money. It's all a matter of profitability analysis.
Coool stuff! Can you make a report on what happens with the wrecked teslas in norway? How is the battery re-used? And what happens if a battery is really kaput? How is it disassembled?
12-volt lead-acid batteries are usually meant to operate at optimum level for five years. So at nine years old they could well fail and cause issues. I had similar with my Nissan Leaf. When the 12-volt battery unexpectedly drained the car started to do all sorts of weird things before shutting down completely. I got a new 12-volt battery and there's been no similar issues since. I'm not sure if this Tesla has lead-acid or lithium 12-volt, but you'd expect the same problems when it fails.
Dazniausiai, 9 is 10, tikrai nesikrauna, bet priklauso nuo to koks SoC, jei aukstas - nesikraus, nes Kai sita klaida meta, berods auksciau 50% nekrauna, kad nebutu kaboom
Recommend putting the 12 volt emergency battery pack (and charging cables) in the frunk!, as it is difficult to access it if there is a lot of luggage in the trunk (or if your tailgate opens on 12 volts?)
I had this problem too with my Tesla S85 2014 (a dead high voltage battery), i made the choice to replace the battery by Tesla and pay the big price. After two tries everything went ok now, and i still have free supercharging and four-year warranty. So that was the trigger for me.
This video is a wake up call. Only after 10 years the car is pretty much rendered useless unless you do a really expensive repair that wouldn't be financially feasible.
A Mercedes or any other big car is easily repaired for more than 7000usd in its first 10 years. Just mention hp pumps, transmissions, cams, engine to a mechanic.
There is a lot of confidence instilled in owners, when an old vehicle, of any kind, can be repaired for a reasonable sum. The later video shows that the main battery needed to be removed, but has been fixed to fully working condition, with a good clean and the replacement of a certain number of small parts. Was it trash? Not at all, just needed some love. A 10-yr old ICE supercar that had been used this much, would be looking at an engine re-build and a transmission overhaul, at considerably greater cost than even having a whole new battery fitted. The Sun says: "Oh, see, this useless Tesla needed a little maintenance for the first time in 10 yrs, for a fraction of the cost that an equivalent ICE car would, such a terrible thing... And it's going to spontaneously combust and burn your house down too, wait and see... maybe give it another 20-30 yrs, I'm telling you...don't buy one!" Ha ha!!!
This will be very interesting to watch. The issues sound minor, and when fixed this is an excellent and very capable vehicle. Sure, for a newer car you can list any number of tech features and performance numbers, but are they *genuinely* interesting? And worth paying good money for? I don't think so.
Don't know either way but he did connected the positive first and the negative second, I bet it was force of habit just automatic, he just said it the other way, when asked if that was the correct way to connect the terminals. But to tell the truth I have connected battery terminals either way, one first or the other second, many times, and never add serious problems besides a few sparks, the serious problems only happen, when you connect the negative in the positive and the positive in the negative, that is a serious no no. :P
I would make a suggestion to avoid any future legal issues Do something to their logo, like split it in 2 pieces (like a broken heart symbol) This will allow you to not be charged for using their logo without their permission and also continue your grievance regarding them taking your content and manipulating and editing it, making you appear you say something else.
Just solve the air-suspension issue. It was the pipe compresseur to the Air tank. (a electrical cable touch the Airpipe) Also, Tesla service propose 4y & 100Mkm of guarantee for a Batterie swap. (free installation)
He can repair the battery himself, he was there to buy the Tesla, even if the battery was fully dead, the fact it was still alive and working, despite the problems, was a bonus!
@@TheEvilmooseofdoom Battery replacement is very costly and battery tech is still improving. So especially old EV’s will lower sales (most non-Tesla’s) - have or will have meh value when they get old - much more so than gas cars
Note that this car is rear-wheel drive. The frunk (or, as I like to call it in British English, the froot (US trunk = UK boot)) is much smaller if you have all-wheel drive.
Hi I need professional advice please, I have bought 2017 model X 100D from an auction house, it had some damage at the front , I’m a virgin with EV cars especially Tesla , I have no clue what front body parts to get, second problem that I’m facing is that the car does not charge or move, bought brand new 12V battery and the car sucks it all in 20-25 minutes and 12v battery goes flat and the car shuts down again, any expert advice would be highly appreciated as I have spent £26k so far for a dead car. Really really stressed
For me, these are the most interesting videos. Do the guys know how to boost the signal to the MCU2 in a 2016 Model S? I have the upgrade to MCU2 but I'm told the antenna is the weak link in getting a better signal.
