That is a shame that one of your fence building contractors was not genuine and honest in their dealing with you as they did. Honesty and decency is not that difficult. But your sense of humor shines through. The winter scenes look beautiful and the outdoor railroad over wintered very well. Excellent video again, thank you.
Absolutely gorgeous . Using rolled roofing is pure genius . Height of benchwork appears to be perfect . I bury the posts minimum 2 feet in the ground ,never use concrete since wood is not suitable for concrete contact ,also creates pocket for moisture to collect . Instead pouring gravel around post will support the post . As the post shrinks gravel will automatically settle and keep the post tight . . Do the same on fence . 6x6 post is concrete contact rated . I learned a lot from your video . I enjoyed watching very much . You are fortunate to have great support .Thanks for a beautiful video
Next time you place a post into the ground, take 20 penny galvanized nails and drive 6 in on each side of the post that will be in the concrete, leaving about 2/3 of the nail sticking out so when you place your concrete around the post, the nails give the concrete something to bond to. Your post and pier are now one unit. When the post dries completely, there will always be a tiny gap between the post and concrete, (wiggle) The post and concrete are now one. Also, make sure the concrete is an inch higher at the post and slopes down and away from the post so no water will puddle around the post. Also, think about using marine grade plywood for all exterior uses.
Save the switches and make an abandoned line with those switches, and the way you have done the outside bench work, has given me an idea of how to do mine when I get my layout done!
Love seeing your railroad covered in light snow… Beautiful. Would love to see it during those lovely “golden hours” during the early morning and early evenings in fall…
I was listening with headphones this morning while cooking breakfast, but not watching. I thought the second tree that tipped over was also on the railroad! I thought wow these guys really are being prototypical!
an interesting take on a Garden railroad. Mines going to be based on the entire planet starting and ending at the North Pole using 5 main lines of track (with some converted christmas engines of course).
Always appreciate when modelers share what didn't work and then the revised Plan B. Great to see the garden railway coming along. An idea is to try some NoOx on the aluminum rail to get conductivity so you can run before the turnout replacements. Beautiful job.
Used Noalox. The first railroad was 100% aluminum rail but I used that in part to keep the joints from seizing up. Anyway in this case the running rails and even all the joints are doing okay. But because I can’t solder to the frog rails power is getting there through the points…. I should do a video on why that is and how I’m fixed it.
Well you two....Every Railway is never done.....You two love to travel......Which gives you inspiration to add and add....It be so cool to go to a farm store etc and use round wood fence posts and build a curve Railway trestle,about the size of your deck so it looks like a old Railway trestle....and put plastic decking to make it water proof and then use actual 1/4" fines gravel for track....have fun...Take your time to gather and inspiration of Improvements and new Ideas
Raised is great. Love a ground level more, but oh the work! Just putting locomotives and cars on is a real task. I had a 600 foot ground level in the 90’s. Spent 2 hours of maintenance for every hour running. But I could get down there and it was fun. But just can’t do it anymore. But my hope is eventually it will look just as good as a ground level.
It’s gonna be exciting to see the second phase appear and especially boring thur the building attaching indoor to outdoor! Looks great and thanks for sharing!
That was a shame they didn't build things right the first time. But with the redo you have a better setup overall and it looks better. It's great you were able to get the railroad working with just blowing off the track. That's a back and time saver for sure. My sweetie and I have been toying with putting in a garden railroad around the patio when we get a place. We both agree it needs to be raised off the ground. We are thinking 24 inche tall grow boxes and the track runs down the center dividers. She is a lot like Karen in the fact she likes doing miniatures and bead work. It wasn't till recently that I found out she likes model railroads. We will have to wait and see how things work out... hmm a solar powered model railroad.
Love the redue. LOVE THE LANYERNS WITH PUCK LIGHTS. BUT there could be problems. First the post in the ground will be trouble. ALWAYS go 4 feet down to get below the frost line so it won't lift. Best 4 foot deep hole cement only with rebar. With an anchor bolt dead center of the cement. Then place a post base attached when the cement is dry. The base screws into the side of the 4×4 keeping it out of the ground and out of the moisture. Post will last longer. Platform roofing material great idea. But the plarform should have drainage either by drains or up to a 1% pitch towards front or rear. I have never seen boards warp as bad if they are pressure treated. Cedar holds up well to elements but is pricey. Just some ideas for longer life. Along with staining and/ or sealing wood ecery so often.
Hi Dale and Karyn. Love the update! Concerning the electric connection to the switches. You have copper wires powering your rails and the aluminum switches create a resistance mismatch! Same problem in some home wiring and it would cause fires because the copper wiring needed to draw more current to pass through the aluminum wiring. Yes, replacing the track with the same metal (nickel silver) will give your layout a uniform resistance and “eliminate” your problems (knocking on wood). Use a multimeter to check your voltages. Hope this helps. See you Tuesday.
Good Afternoon Dale and Karyn. I am really fascinated at both of your capabilities and interactions to build beautiful layouts. Thank you for sharing. That's a learning experience as most failures should be. All very rugged and beautiful in the end. Please watch for buried items as you expand towards the home. Your video sort of indicated power items on the corner of the house and you indicated bathroom were your train "tunnel" will be.
Yes, I bet so since you have shared sketches, etc. and all your work has so much detail. It was just worth mentioning from a safety standpoint. Thanks for the unexpected reply.
You definitely have a lot of labor in your RR and what a beautiful job. You did the right thing by not just patching it back together. A "learning opportunity " as they say in the Army. Great job Dale 👏! Beautiful at night!! The building look beautiful in the snow. Take some stills of them!
I think it best to replace all rail after all the work you don't want to cut yourself short with the wrong rail material. Love you guys, keep up the good work.
Very cool 😎 how you solved the issues with the posts, warping, the whole construction. Great to see your train running. There’s flux existing with which you can solder to aluminum. Over on this side of the pond it’s sold by Védé. Fluox S90. Requires some adjustment of the soldering technique though. Temperature differs from soldering zinc or stainless material. Also the soldering time is of course shorter. Anyhow, can imagine you will change out those fake nickel silver aluminum points for true nickel silver turnouts. Also, am looking forward to your next steps and progress towards the loop and Garage Mahal. Thanks 🙏 sharing! PS, just saw Ron’s Trains and Things with his update on NO-OX-ID. Makes me wonder how this stuff will work for an outside layout.
Glad ta see ya outside again and all your hard work payed off. Mite try some grafite after ya clean the aluminium track it would seal iiit so it wont oxcidiz.
Yes snot is slick well obviously when you replace those switches you'll have a good running railroad hope you build the next section of bench work just as sturdy as you had to rebuild that long section good luck waiting to see the progress this summer 👍👍
That's looking awesome as always! can't wait to see it making the turn headed towards the wall n passing the bathroom 🤣 and on onto the house 😀 take care my friend, talk to ya'll soon 😀
It was great to see all the fits and starts, lessons learned, from someone who is experienced and still runs into these issues. I have inherited a family and a large collection of garden railway equipment, and the idea is to have something for the grandkids so that they can appreciate this grand collection which we hope will be theirs someday. Thanks for the inspiration.
Dale & Karyn, nice to see the railroad back and running! I've heard great feedback about the nickel silver rail's performance over the years from folks using track power, it's nice to see that confirmed on video! Looking forward to seeing the full route come together. -Mike
Hi Mike! Yeah I bought a whole bunch of used switches that you built. The first batch turned out to be aluminum and I didn’t notice that until I was laying them out there. Went to solder my wires and well, couldn’t very well solder to aluminum! And as it was about to snow, no really it was just about to snow! I just went ahead and buttoned it up for the winter. And sure enough come spring there is a small issue. Now I need to figure out if I want to take those switches completely up and start over or just replace the sections that are giving me trouble. Right now I’m leaning toward just replacing the rails that are giving me trouble. Because the switches work great! And why argue with works great. I just need to get power to the frogs and the rails leading up to the frogs.
When you get thru the wall and into the bathroom will that be the "Schitt's Creek" station? LOL Really like your outdoor buid videos. nice to follow it along same as the indoor ones.
I wonder if you could use the plastic, fiberglass reinforced, lumber for your project? Just a thought. Might help prevent the warping and decay. Super reconstruction by the way.
Wow. Dale and Karen you sure learned the hard way. 2 major problems here: you did not have a good plan to start with and you had cowboys build it. If you build a fence with 10 ft posts you should have at least 2ft in the ground (I prefer 3-4 ft) with decent concrete bases. Selecting the correct lumber is paramount as is the spacing and bracing, Good you got through it and it is now looking good.
I enjoy your channel. I noticed some flat structures for background. I was wondering where you got those. That type of scenery would work well on my railroad
Those are old Burwood wall hangings. Found on eBay. www.ebay.com/itm/294959348244?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=yUGs0XfCSoa&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=gzbSYu9JR0S&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=MORE
Looking great. But I can't help but think how much fun I could have in that space with my N scale stuff (maybe not OUTSIDE). Look on the bright side of boring through to the bathroom... "Honey! We're out of toilet paper!" "Coming right up!" A minute later a train pulls through with a couple flatbed loads of TP.
Karyn’s thinking we do a passenger car with all the passengers over on one side of the car with their faces pressed up against the windows looking shocked!
God morning! Indeed. I’m going to run the DCC system out there as soon as I can. Now adding the controller boards to the locomotives is a bit of a trick.. but only because we have so many
Just saw your film there you celebrated your one year marriage in 2015. I thought you were chocolate and vanilla since teenage or something, so close you seem. Just subscribed (again) after been away from trains for two years cause of sickness. But now I am back again.
The term is; slick as greased ice, or slicker than greased ice, I can't remember which, my "southern-ese very good today. You just had to run the 2-6-6-2, to open the railroad for 2022, nice.
If you two lived next door to me I might be gone for a few hours. Once I came in my wife would say, "Let me guess you have been playing trains with Toy Man and Dawn again?" I would say, " Of course I have, Tiy Man was testing a new glue and Dawn made cookies." Rebuild is just something you have to do to get the Trainsmile. Jay in Atlanta, OStdHOSNZG
Regarding rail material: I have all brass rail on my outdoor layout. Cleaning is not been difficult. I have gone for months over winter and trains run ok without cleaning in the spring. Only 1 power feed point for over 200ft of track. The track has been in place since 2006-2008. Currently at ground level but making plans to elevate half of it.
Hum. Never thought of that. I’ve been clamping connections. I this case I’m going to start by pulling the frog rails and replacing them with nickel. The running rails have a clamped connection which you cans just barely see between the switches and is working well. It’s the frogs that need help. And my plan is when the power is DCC I will be adding auto power switching for all the frogs and reverse loop.
It’s the sun that really harms the layout. Water proofing is mostly easy. But the hot sun warps and fades and wrecks everything. So I’m using that latches to protect the railroad from the late afternoon son. I may also employ a sunshield across the great top of the polls
Maybe the train could carry an extra roll of toilet paper, ha ha ha! I don't know how much of a challenge you want to have along with challenges you already have but it might be neat to have a curved trestle bridge between this part of the garden railroad and the other part that will run parallel to the wall
Hi. Yup all connected. Except the logging railroad. It’s 8 feet up and getting it down to the 4 foot level would require a 12 foot helix. Nope. So it’s in its own up there.
did you hear the union pacific donated challenger #3985, 2-10-2 #5511, and centennial #6936? also there are eventual plans to restore 3985 and 5511 to operation
@@ToyManTelevision you should do your layout the way you want, but if I was working on it I would add a freaght siding at the station to drop off or pick up freaght.
I’m a little confused on the ramp. It appeared earlier in the video that the train comes out of the garage around ground level then proceeds up grade to the new layout shelf but at the end, it appears the garage tunnel is at the same elevation as the shelf. Question was answered in the 3rd episode The Tunnel.
Hi! The inside elevation is 52 inches. Outside it’s 40 at the east end, back to 52 at the west end. Because the ground slopes away. So on exiting the garage the tracks ramp down 12 inches the the outside level. It’s the only grade on the railroad.
It was sad to see your old framework had gone awry. Unfortunately Utah's climate isn't really all that nice to wood products. Shoddy craftsmansiip doesn't help any either. Hopefully your new track framework will give you years of trouble free service. At 18:16 and other points onward I was excited to see that you were runn8ng your Baldwin No. 50 model from the old Uintah railway running on your track. Of course I had noticed it right away on your title screen too. Where did you pick up that locomotive from and how much? I must have missed that episode. How many people here on your channel are familiar with the story of the Baldwin locomotives No. 50 and No. 51? It's one of my favorite locomotives. At 31:19 I see your Clear Creek railway express agency building. Is that a fictional building or is it modeled after an old historic building? BTW, it wouldn't be funny to see Karyn with a fuzzy perm. As always, you two put on a fantastic show, even if some of them are the nice and relaxing lazy Sunday variety. Thanks again! Til next time...
Just Home Depot. Like $50 a roll. I’ve used two so far. Really gets hot too. It’s been the hottest year on record. But when it’s 100° out the roofing is sitting between 130° and 140°. But the rails are 160° to 170°!! No matter. It works well.
Did you all Buy or Build the Lantern Lights ? If you Bought them , WHERE and if you Built them, were did you find the parts ? I have been looking for about 300 of them for a project I am working on for a friend . He holds Weddings on his 40 acre ranch and he wants to put those types of lamps all along the walk ways . Might need up to 1000 of them by the time We are done . We have already wired the set up for sound and in total he will have 13 Zones with just over 500 smaller 70volt speakers . As he was building the walkways we put in a 4" Pipe for all of the Low Voltage(70 Volt) and a 4" pipe for the high Voltage(100 volts+) .
Built. Just the small lanterns from Amazon. About 9”? The down light is a 12 volt “puck light”. They are for campers and trailers. Magnetic. They just stick the the bottom of lantern. Found them on Amazon. Search for puck light. Drill a small hole near the edge. The flickering light is also 12 volts. It’s a campfire effect for model railroads but any flickering light will do. My whole system is 12 volts but I have 110 there on plugs. But the lights are all 12 volts DC.
@@ToyManTelevision your collection is really impressive to say the least. And yes adding RC and batteries to all of them would be extremely expensive. Track power and DCC that work good inside . Seem to be problematic outside
Oriented Strand Board, or OSB for short, is similar to plywood, but uses thin chips of wood glued together. It has more strength than particle board, but less than true plywood which has layers with the wood grain running perpendicular to each other for the full width and length of the material. I myself don't recommend using OSB outdoors unless thoroughly protected as it delaminates more easily than plywood when exposed to moisture.
Both are correct. Unfortunately it is called by many names including OSB (oriented strand board), chip board, wafer board, sterling board, and even plywood, which technically it isn't but has been called that by some contractors whom I've sold many sheets and bunks to for over 13 years.
I don't think that's properly pressure treated wood, or it's pressure treated wood that isn't great for your location. Properly treated wood and using proper shelf brackets should work for what you wanted to do. The problem started with the improper installation of the vertical posts...which actually would be better if you used Redwood fence posts for that, then you don't need it to be pressure treated. You can solder to aluminum...just did a quick Google search and came up with a bunch of solder for copper to aluminum...if you don't want to replace those turnouts.
With age comes wisdom. It is miserable when you hire individuals to do a task perform substandard workmanship (and intentionally hide what they did). We are to a point in our lives when things we were able to do just a few years ago we no longer can do. My plan is build a smelting shelter and using my stock of scape. Keep he faith because you will endure.
Not sure why you are trying to power the track. There are much better systems then DCC and track power. Most of us I G scale have moved to Battery and RailPro for wireless control.
