I'm all about risers on boards, I have a set of the old Burton risers on my 181 Supermodel and I made a set for one of my Burton Alps out of Ikea cutting boards. I absolutly love the feel of risers and add the hard boots and I'm a happy guy.
I installed some Donek riser plates last year on a board and really liked them. Used them to allow a narrower stance width than my bindings/board inserts would allow.
Mine are excellent, many years in. Use occasionally for stiffening board feel and carving. Only negative is screws loosening, so a small touch of blue loctite was needed.
Those look like nice plates. I bought T-Plates last year and absolutely love them. Plates make a huge difference for carving and make my narrower boards much more rideable.
Would be cool if you could get toe/heel raise plates. I went ahead and bought alpine UPZ boots and SG board and bindings for this season. Seems the easy choice for carving
I’ve only tried risers once, and it was on one of Cherry’s ultra wide boards. I really didn’t like it. It felt very detached, but also very tippy while on edge… like stacking my weight over the edge was now a balancing act. It was just a couple of runs so maybe I’d get use to it, but my first impression was that nothing else had ever messed with my sense of balance so much.
Again my friend we seem to have many similar experiences; last season I broke out my Palmer risers and put them on my Amplid Morning Glory 162 just to see what they would do to the ride? They are not as high above the deck as the one's you just showed, plus the threaded screws used to attach the binding screws into sometimes loosen up allowing extra play under foot. However overall it showed an earlier use of the edge on both toe and heel side entries; so it was of some help especially since the board under the rear foot had a greater taper and I have that size 12/29.5 or so sizing to deal with depending on the direction I set the back foot at. Anyway we always enjoy you commentary, thanks!
My take on wide stances and canting is that if you feel the great urge for canting from a stance width perspective, you're likely set up too wide for your body. IMO canting has a place for performance increase on carving setups or maybe in general for directional, turns inspired riding. But that would be toe and heel canting more so than inwards canting, although depending on your angles that can make some sense at times, too.
I tried the Donek riser plates last year and although they do give you more available angle, they also reduce too much of the board feel for my liking. Too damp and reduces torsional flex for ankle steering IMO. I decided to just order a custom board with enough width to solve the problem (30cm).
with risers: wide boards decrease edging power(ie like ryan knaptons extra ultra wide boards) hence a narrower board with risers works ''like" a wide board, but avoids leverage over the edge decreases, but benefits the need to avoid boot drag
Palmer still maintains his riser discs give you more leverage, but from a mechanical point of view it's the exact opposite: they give the board more leverage over your foot (if it worked like Palmer claims, it would work even better the higher the pads are. Try imagining a 300mm riser!). These will behave the same and effectively reduce power...
When the board gets wider and the rider goes higher through riser pads, the effect of the board's high leverage over the foot is being countered. Do I not understand basic physics??
@@wacomtexas I think there's limit at which the effect reverses. I think it is true that someone, who has overdone it a little with waist width and is realizing that it's just to hard to get on edge, can counter that by going a little higher with riser pads. I think this is all with limits.
