I have noticed before that sometimes companies do put the weak limb on the wrong side a lot of that has to do with veryzer deflection and your cable guard the pressure that is on those cables at cool draw
Are you able to get the bow tuned and not have a control cable running through your sight picture. Shot hoyts forever and never seen a cable in my scope. Now have 2 elites and the scope has a cable about a 1/3 of the way in. Just not used to seeing anything in my sight picture except for my pin.
G’day Michael, I’ve just received my verdict 70# OD Green, I’m just loving it. I’ve also shimmed it to the right being a left-hander like you, but I was interested to find out what is the gap you have? do you have only one shim? The .3? Does that give you the cam clearance so it doesn’t hit/rub your limb? Thanks
😂 Oops Not quite what I meant. When you’re moving your shims about on the axle, you don’t leave out any shims I get that, but when you moved your cam to the right, what was the smallest shim that you used to keep the cam off the limb? Or did you move the cam all the way and have all the shims on the left-hand side?
do you mind if I ask where you can get shiims? Im right handed and I have noticed my stabilizer is pointing off to the left. Bow shoots great so I just figured it was riser flex at full draw so I was leaving it alone. But if shimming it will help Im open to trying it. Just need to find out where to get shims
@@michaelbaker5427 Although I’m only 20 min away from Calgary (city of 1.3million) only one archery shop and they don’t carry elite. I do all my own work. Do you think elite would send them to me
If you have to shim the cam it kinda defeats the purpose of the S.E.T. I wonder if the weak limbs are both on the same side like some of the omnias with cable rubbing issues. Guys were saying they had both weak limbs on say the left and the S.E.T wasnt fixing the issue.
Correct, righty. Been bugging for a while but everybody keeps telling me if it’s shooting good then just leave it. Or they’ll say it’s me torquing the bow 😂 Appreciate you covering this fix!
Hey guys! As you mentioned, when using SET, it will change the direction of the way your stabilizer points because it is changing the limb direction. Spacing a cam, like you mentioned can help fix that. But also, you can use a 10* degree down disconnect and get it pointing directly straight. Personally, I’m OCD about that. Great video Michael! Love the insight and this will help a lot of people make up their mind when they are on the fence about these bows. The only hard decision to make is what arrow to use because everything will work!!!!
@@nathanbrooks4324 The stab pointing out to the right didnt bother me and the bow shoots great. However while prepping for field when I started running my site out farther it really changes the position of the scope and the further out i run the sight bar the further out tot he left I have to move the scope (need the long rod) I've actually played with the set tech to help but it still torques out to the right even if I use the max setting on the SET tech screw. I've even done it on a draw board to prove to friends who said I was torquing the bow (Im not). It is critical to set 3rd axis at full draw on this bow for sure.
I can’t stand having a bow that has to have shim changes etc. it pure BS to buy a new bow that the shop or owner has to fricking rebuild. I want my bows set up everything straight down the centerline. I’m not wasting my time doing something the manufacturer should have done BEFORE it was shipped. I’ve sold several bows three to four days after getting it set up and discovered it’s got to be fricking disassembled and trial and error BS to work out the issue. IMO, a $1000 bow should not have to be fricking worked on. That’s pure laziness at the manufacturer. I have NEVER had a PSE or an ELITE of several models each that needed to be “ rebuilt”. Mathew’s and Hoyts you can count on having issues.
