Love it. Literally wondering the same things you are when I came across this. I decided to order the one-piece OEM gasket (and spray it with copper ‘spray-a-gasket’) on my lawn tractor’s valve covers because I got sick of trying to decide which RTV/how much to apply. I used the ultra black Permatex last time and I didn’t like the process of cleaning it all off this time around when my valves needed adjustment, and since a once-piece OEM gasket shows up in my owners manual I’m trying that this time. Love the copper ‘spray-a-gasket’ for the cardboard gaskets because it’s very forgiving for any scratches on aluminum parts. Enjoyed watching you question the same things I did.
Great Job, just finishing up a 2.0T head with new valves, gaskets, valve guide seals, with your video's help. Previous owner deferred maintenance to the point of timing chain stretch and bent all the valves. $300 in new timing parts or $3500 at a shop, your choice. BTW change you oil every 3-5k miles it's cheap $40 insurance to keep your car's engine from going boom.
Really? Wow youre a brilliant person. Thank god I read your comment bc I never knew no oil "make engine go boom" bahahandknrndkekejjendnnrjrrjdj you mongloid.
Can only speak for JB Weld. Less is more, small bead not spreading it out with finger. Tack Cure so none of it comes away if touched with finger. Colors are easy. Black for high flexing parts where you need flexible seal. Ultimate Grey for cast parts or metal to metal seals that go under compression. Red when you need more heat tolerance. For example I would use ultimate grey on the intake side and red on the exhaust side. Black on large thin sheet metal covers that will flex a lot with vibration. You need a bead that has cured enough so it will make a seal under compression. You don’t want it wet and squish out all your seal material by not waiting the proper cure time before cranking down on the bolts.
Follow the instructions. It works. You need to use the plastic nozzle and run your bead on the inside edge of the pan. When I use silicone sealant I install the part and come back few hours later to finish the job.
Funny, I just noticed those instructions myself doing a transmission pan gasket last week. I used 90 minute ultra grey and did let it set up a bit before tightening, maybe 45 minutes instead of a full hour as it was getting late. No leaks so far.
I took a permatex class in school and you let it skin over with hand tightening the bolts so it makes a gasket. I've never had a leak using there methods. same thing with thread locker only apply it to the threads of a clean bolt if the hole it's going in has a opening. if it doesn't have a opening apply the thread locker to the hole and it will force its way through the thread as the bolt goes in.
I always use the 6 pack rule before running. Right now I have an engine I put together in the garage earlier. I'm giving it 12 hours. Ultra Grey is the best though. Takes longer to cure but it holds stuff the strongest.
Here is why it's this way. First principal, RTV hardens with exposure to moisture in the air. THAT'S THE KEY POINT. 1) You want to put the parts together while the silicone is wet as this provides the adhesion you want. 2) BUT you don't want to squeeze all of the silicone out of the joints to be sealed. That's where the finger tight part comes in. You want the silicone to be able to slightly harden prior to removing all possibility of moisture getting into the silicone. Once the moisture in the air has started to catalyze the silicone and it's gained some body you finish with the specified torque.
@piercer2 how’d the thermostat leak go? I’m looking to do one myself with RTV red which may be overkill for the temperature but it’s what I have on hand. What do you think? What product did you use for your thermostat?
RTV is great stuff, but I am amazed at how many companies can't properly spec a cap. All but one brand that I have used punch out the top out of their caps when they are tightened down. And no not tightened excessively . If I was a skeptic I would conclude that these companies spec their caps so that the cap breaks and insures that you need to buy more product prematurely. Permatex is the only brand that I've used that doesn't punch out the top of its cap.
The quicker curing formula’s will cure in the tube more than the slower ones, I dont punch the caps, I use a wood screw and then once I am done with the tube I turn the screw back into the tube for storage, it seems to make it last better as it tends to keep air from entering
Put some dielectric grease on the threads before you place the cap and then you only have to make the cap snug. The grease will seal out the air and moisture that causes the sealant to cure in the tube. I just used a tube that was opened a year ago. There was a slight skin on top, but that's from moisture that gets trapped in the cap. I did run a test test bead to make sure it was still good before use and it cured no problem.
Helpful tip: When you're done, put some dielectric grease on the tube threads and then tighten the cap so it's snug, but not too tight (they split easily). The dielectric grease will seal out the air/moisture and prevent the sealant from curing in the tube. You will get a slight cured plug at the tip due to the moisture in the air trapped in the cap. Make sure the sealant is all the way to the tip to prevent excess trapped air. I've kept an open tube useable for over a year this way. This may not work with anaerobic sealant.
It’s all about clean surface preparation!!! Everybody is in a rush ! Me too! That causes all the screw up! I’ve seen destroyed engines by using too much rtv , plugged oil holes, oil pump screens etc. Less is more!!! You nailed it perfectly in your vid.
Another great video and this is one I’ve been waiting for, what you think is the most suitable gasket maker RTV.. sounds like you have been having great success with your method of using the 90min “Right Stuff” is that your go to silicone for the pans and the lower timing case? I think as long as the surfaces are very clean and have a little coarse “roughed up” surfaces like you mentioned in a different video, all of those choices would work. But for the lower timing cover, I have a question? I have a brand new cover from FCP should I rough it up slightly before I install it? And should I use the permatex “Right Stuff” or JB gray? Looking for your advice on the best practices for that lower case that will leak if it’s not perfect. I will use that method of hand tight until an even bead is seen squeezing out around the perimeter, then waiting 90min until final torquing.. that is 9NM on those t30 bolts.. great video 👍🏻👍🏻
Generally I use the permatex ultra grey as it is useable in most situations - I do not work in a shop etc so quick cure time is not terribly important to me - it will seal most everything, oil or coolant based, has quite a high operating temperature, and is ok to use in the presence of fuel - most of the other ones are not recommended with fuel. When I apply it, I use it as sparingly - I work slow anyway so that gives it a bit of time for it to begin setting up, I tighten all the fasteners kind of hand tight and then return to it the next day to torque it up. This way the slow cure time (and it is slow curing 2 days or so) works to my advantage as I need not rush. When I return to torque the fasteners the next day, I can then remove them 1 by 1 and apply and sealer or threadlock that may be desired prior to final torque. I am always pretty anal about torque anyway so I will always retorque the fastener several times before I call it good. The ridgid description of it makes it better at filling larger openings such as when you are substituting the sealant for the end intake gaskets on v6 and v8 engines it has less shrinkage and the cured product is more ridgid, it is not difficult to remove as it’s adhesive abilities are less than some of the others. Nobody wants to keep many of these tubes stored around after opening as they will tend to set up and cure in the tube making it just garbage and wasted $$ - that is the big reason I choose the ultra grey as I can buy just that one and it is useable in most instances.
I decided to not use silicone for the water pump and backing plate for a SBF 302. I used 3M TALC Scotch-Weld Composite Urethane Adhesive DP6310NS Green. No gaskets used. Only the urethane. It has tremendous stick. So far its working great.
The wealth of knowledge I have learned from you has saved me thousands of dollars. I’m currently working on an oil leak originating from what looks like the oil cooler but thought I replace the oil filter housing gasket also. I’m a little unsure with removing the a/c compressor. Can I unbolt it and let it hang with some support or do I need to remove the freon.
The ultra gray is decent. I'm just not a fan of permatex silicone. I e saw too many oil pans that have been re sealed with ultra black and allways leaked. I like Honda bond or world packs stuff.
Ultra Black and never look back. Use it on everything except exhaust. Use it with some cloth harness tape to secure short runs of wires to smooth surfaces when you don't have any other way to secure them. Use it on repairs to electronics, not just for cars, but for areas of PC printer boards that need liquid proofing like print head control boards or to repair printhead gaskets. Use it on custom control boards for drones to weather proof them. You can even peal it off circuit boards to do other repairs. Sensor safe means it doesn't release acetic acid when it cures so no corrosion on wires, PCB components or traces and other metal surfaces. Fun stuff.
Just recently had an oil leak coming from my drain plug on my 1988 Acura Legend. Tried a new washer & plug, didn't work so I picked up the ultra black Permatex and I followed the instructions to a T (It was my weekend so I had the time). So far two weeks of driving and I'm seeing no issues
You're supposed to wait for it to cure 24hrs before exposing to oil...if you don't, it will become gooey mess. The Right Stuff only requires 90 minutes before exposing to oil, that is the selling point. You can do a repair and get back on the road in theory...
I've always rolled up the bottoms of the tubes as I used them, just like I do with toothpaste or anything in similar packaging. I figured it was common sense XD
In the shop atmosphere you dont get paid waiting for glues to dry.Permatex and all other manufacturers have addressed this issue and are constantly improving their products addressing this concern. They certainly like to charge for these advancements. Shortly after the Right stuff come out the ultra grey came out. My explanation was black, ultra or Rightstuff was for most all auto applications but they improved it and made it grey to handle the synthetic oils.
Interesting video. I've seen how they use this stuff in the factory, though, and it's a neater job because the sealant is applied by robot (normally), but there's no cure time, it's applied and everything is torqued to spec immediately after - maybe they use a different compound of silicone? Some silicone doesn't mention anything about a cure/dry time before final torque - Reinzosil is one, I have a couple of tubes of that stuff and instructions just state to apply, assemble and torque as soon as practically possible. Some are different still, I'm sure I have a gasket maker which states on the instructions to apply, then wait 15 minutes before assembly (to allow the silicon to "skin") and then assemble hand tight, wait one hour and then torque to spec. No wonder nobody uses the stuff right, instructions seem to differ from one type and one brand to the next. It must be fairly forgiving stuff, though, I don't think I've had one fail for all the mistakes I make using it.
When they assemble them in the factory, all of the surfaces are new so less likelyhood that the sealant doesn’t fail - plenty of stuff from the factory loses torque and begins to leak prematurely too
I think the reason we always overbead is because it's no fun to have the pan or whatever you are putting on leaking after the silicone is curred. It's a devastating sight to see the an oil leak from a pan knowing you'll have to drain the oil,remove freshly curred silicone clean and redo. No fun.
Not to mention all the disassembly required to remove the cover, and then reclean all your old sealant off etc it is worse than doing the job twice because it leaves you gunshy to repeat it.
Aerospace uses those instructions exactly. You let the gasket form first, then torque. The point isnt to jus "fill the low spots". Its to form and actual film gasket between surfaces.
Lots of us have a habit of using it to hold gaskets in place, even though we are told to nounuse it on gasket surfaces we don’t like leaks, in this case I will smear it so it is spread out over the gasket surface. But if you are using the sealant as the only gasket, yes you ar better off laying a consistent bead and then allow the cover to push it into place as it is tightened
i am at about 18 min ,,,,,its frustrating i am an old timer which is used to gaskets ,,with this we need some patience and remember too much can damage or clog a passage of some sort , so using just the right amount would be better ,,,,lets finish this vid that is very good and all learn a little something LOL ,,,,,,
I manly use mopar grey ..after curing the sealant is harder ..than say normal rtv ..after curing , it feels like a rubber band ... If I remember correctly , most rtv says , make a bead let it surface cure ..then assembly.. All techs are in a bigger rush , and assemble before curing..
Yeah I used to goop too much on and immediately torqued everything together. Now I'm much more careful on how much I apply and do the finger tight, wait an hour and torque procedure. Note the Right Stuff 1 min does let you torque immediately.
Cool video ! So confusing really. Iv got a old tube of red. And I want t use it up in a diff cover I think it’s just to sell more tubes my guess. Red on a diff cover ? Should be over kill right
i suppose that after you squirted the gray gasket maker on, you could have trimmed the video down, as the rest of the video is about the reassembly of an engine the the subject of RTV kinda went away. I was hoping to see the 1 hour and 90 minute results
There is leak in the car's vacuum pump nipple. It works on 7-9 bar range connecting the brake booster and other vacuum systems. Which sealant is recommended for this purpose? Please advise
The vacuum pump shouldnt leak, the pump is divided into 2 parts, I have a video where I take it apart and show how it works. I don’t know the specs for it but if it’s leaking I’d just put a new one on with a new gasket at the cylinder head. So far I personally haven’t had one go bad yet. Silicone sealant is not something I use on the vacuum pump even when replacing the oil gasket at the head/ back of pump, I alway just put a good oem gasket on it.
Why not the JBWeld Hi-Temp Red gasket maker? the JBWeld website for the red says, Oil Pans Valve Covers Exhaust Manifolds Water Pumps Timing Covers Differential Covers Drive Housing The only thing the Red doesn't do that Grey / Black can are transmission pans and cam cover.
I do it wrong too (As a mechanic) I've usually just full torqued the components from the get go. Its job is to fill in the gaps. I'm a little scared of waiting for it to dry and the full torque it thinking the extra pressure could cut into the silicone. Even if wrong I've yet to see one leak
i use permatex ultra grey and have never used the finger tight rule . But i have also never had a comeback bc of the ultra grey failing. but the red is by far the worst I don't see my self ever using it.
I have a Predator 3500 generator that is leaking oil from where the low oil sensor wires enters the engine, It is not a threaded connector, and there is just the wires coming out with some kind of sealant around them that isn't working any more. What kind of sealant would you recommend I use on the surface of where the wires come out of the engine to stop the leak? All I know is that it has to be high temp and compatible with coming in contact with oil...
Interesting topic I think you are not using the right sealant for the upper oil pan. You should be using anaerobic sealant. I could be wrong, do correct me if I am. I think the advantage is the sealant will cure inside the joint and all the excess will never solidify. Example: Permatex 51845
You could probably use that and it will probably work in most cases although I haven’t tried yet but Audi only uses that anaerobic sealant for the camshaft tray
An RTV or Silicone sealant Bead Applied product should Always be applied to Clean, uniformly thinly wiped, White Lithium Greased surfaces Evenly & Loosely assembled/tightened for 24 hrs Before final torque tightened to assembly specs to establish a functional sealant thickness without causing uncontrolled squished-out sealant Displacement & likely resulting leakages while still Allowing relatively easy Cleanly joint Releasing seperation disassembly effort.....
I was doing a transmission pan drop and filter change. I used ultra black rtv, bead not too big, let it for an hour to set, but apparently it needs way more than that, it was leaking like droplets. Had to drain the aft and start from scratch. Now I put a bigger bead and hand tightened those bolts for 24 hours. We'll see how it goes.
@@dreamchaser6053 you gotta go by what the product tells you. 24 cure time, respect that or at least more than 15 in my opinion. From my experience, i let my car in the shop for 2 whole days (this was cause it was on friday and shop was closed Saturday and sunday) so on Monday I inspected and it seemed well sealed. Definitely go by what permatex tells you otherwise you're gambling.
If the one sets in 60 minutes and the other one Jewelers in 90 minutes that has nothing to do with each other. Set time and cure time or two completely different things. Pay attention
Your not supposed to spread it….and the way your squeezing it around the outside of your bolt holes would be asking for leaks if you didn’t spread it out
I thought everybody cared enough about something as critical as gaskets to read the proper procedure.... is everybody doing it right or is it just me??🤷♂️🤷♂️
Funny, I just noticed those instructions myself doing a transmission pan gasket last week. I used 90 minute ultra grey and did let it set up a bit before tightening, maybe 45 minutes instead of a full hour as it was getting late. No leaks so far.
