Wesley, next time use a hex head bolt, chuck it in a drill, spin it against a belt sander, and round over the hex top, to create miniature carriage bolt. Top looks like a rivet, but there's a threaded shank.
I'm glad it's not just me who spends way too much time on seemingly simple aesthetic stuff. A lot of people don't think the small details matter all that much, but I've found that's what impresses customers with the project over all, and they're willing to pay more for it. I'm rarely happy with "that'll do"
I actually like the sound of the fan in the background. It makes the videos relaxing. Also, it's awesome to see someone troubleshooting a lot for something as small as a detail. I feel like I do the same all of the time - I'm surprised by how patient and level-headed you are even when things don't work. Can't wait to see it all come together!
Wesley, try adding baking soda after you glue in the threaded part with CA adhesive. It makes a super strong resin type grip. I have used this method multiple times with great results. Even my Mom used it to fix something in place! She’s 83 and still decorating her house when she’s not creating crafts and cards for the local goodwill store.
Good stuff, I like the variety of stuff you do. In regard to using CA glue for securing the thread to the aluminium plate I was wondering if you could have made a little mound of baking soda around the screw thread before applying the CA glue to provide more surface area to grip. Cheers and thanks, David.
I love your work and videos. I suggest you get some JB Weld two party putty for issues like your rivets. It cures as hard as steal within 24 hours but is workable after about an hour if you are impatient.
I know this is too late now, but could you not cut a thread on the rivets? I know without a slot you can't get them really tight, but a lock nut would keep them secure and a few dabs of silicone would keep the panel from moving as the holes are a bit on the large size.
Heads-up since you were complaining that your rivets were too thin for he holes: did you know there are old-school solid rivets of a lot of sizes? They're harder to find than the modern ones, but maybe you should browse around for a bunch of them for your shop, for situations like that one. And when I need a rivet in a size that doesn't exist, I usually grab a length of metal rod and form a head over a simple die.
I see that this is an older video, so this suggestion is moot, but 1/8" pop rivets could be a solution if there is room behind the plate you attached to, or flush riv-nuts. Just a thought. I enjoy your videos. Take care.
hey even though its almost a year old, there are square neck bolts, that look just like a rivet when installed. you need to make a square hole in the base plate... or at least a slightly too small round hole and hammer it in, depends on the lazyness.
Longer shanked rivets done with a rivet gun (impact hammer) and bucking bar, allowing you to make sure that the head remains flush. Oh the days of really riveting stuff without pop rivets or pneumatic riveters. Though us airframers still learn the art of riveting.
Wesley...you have more than two fans. 😉Great project!! Did you consider using thin double coated tape ? I think this would have worked fine. Enjoy the maker faire.
I had to cut out a detail for time's sake: It didn't work the first time because the sanding reheated the glue and the rivets flew off. The second time, I had to take it slow, sanding just a little at a time.
That's what I thought... had the same idea before. Hot glue and physical work doesn't match well... I tried fixing metal for boring a complicated hole - did not work at all
You could have taken a slightly oversized head machine screw, sanded the surface off, and tightened it from the back. It would look just like a rivet head.
What I don’t get is you have a cnc machine and are only using half its capability. Instead of having to cut out the badge manually you could get the cnc to do it for you and if you want to add imperfections to make it look hand made you can easily touch it up by hand. If you are worried about cutting into the table just use a sacrificial piece under the badge. You can even cut the mounting holes too.
Because everyone loves to be told what you should have done. Hahaha. Do you think taping a hole in the back of the rivet to screw directly into would have worked for you? Congrats on 30K btw!
@@WesleyTreat Makes sense. I like your videos, btw. I'm planning to use your resin casting technique to replicate a driving wheel of a 60ies super8 projector by technicolor for film loop cartridges. I hope it works, because that thing is awesome.
Could try a metal epoxy, use round head screws and then fill in the tool hole... Settle a bet for me, I said aluminium would last forever, planes, cars, statues and the like, a friend said after 30 years in water some aluminium would be totally gone, I call crap... Thoughts?
Phonotical - depends on the aluminum alloy and the type of water. I remember from chemistry & geology that water is a "universal solvent" - given enough time it will decompose anything.
Graeme Payne no alloy, just bare aluminium, given enough water I'm sure anything could happen, but for sake of argument let's say it sat in a magical bucket that was always full of water, the water never went away neither is it renewed, it doesn't really decompose like other materials, say if you wanted a sign to last 1000 years, you could use gold and hope it never got scratched or aluminium and hope nobody had a 300psi hose 😂
Most double-sided tapes tend to (a) be thick and/or compressible, (b) be so aggressive as to pull splinters from wood or are difficult to remove, or (c) leave a sticky residue that has to be cleaned up. Blue tape has the perfect grip and is easy to remove, with no residue. If someone were to point me to a thin, double-sided tape with the same adhesive as the blue tape, I'd be happy to try it. 👍
Good job. Ya got there eventually if that comes up again in the future, the hardware store sells a little thing called a Chicago Screw cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1171/6948/products/nickel-qtr-screws.jpg?v=1490370797 A lot of machines use these things to hold name plates on called drive screws if you a thicker piece of backing material to go into to. catalog.scfastening.com/Asset/Drive%20Screw.jpg Also rounding the head of a regular bolt with the grinder would have worked or JB weld would've held your first idea, superglue is no good on metal unless it's really ruffed up and has a larger area. One more tidbit, if you use the blue tape on both the bed and part then glue in between it holds just as good or better and you don't have to clean it off anything. Good job matching patina.
