Useful tips, although people shouldn't be nervous, one doesn't achieve anything procrastinating through fear of failure. Trial and error via experimentation for continuous improvement is the order of the day! : )
Thank you Will for passing on these painting tips. I’m an old car painter and all of what you have said about good spraying techniques is spot on and will certainly produce good results for those that take the time to apply them. You’re a good model maker and seem to approach the craft with intellectual reasoning and sound methods. Keep up the good work as many of us are benefiting from your videos.
Hey Will, Watched this video a number of times and attempted my first utility gloss today and it is awesome, thanks for the in depth advice you made it easy and stress free and I now have a working system to improve upon. keep them coming.: )
This is just what I needed to know after a disappointing flat finish on a model car using X-22. I'm really grateful for the knowledge you share as I get back into model building after a 40 year hiatus.
This video totally changed how I work on my kits. If you want a true quality of life improvement when it comes to airbrushing, watch this! Thank you Will.
Excellent video Will, Thanks for posting, I'm just about to "graduate" from rattle can gloss coat to acrylic gloss via the airbrush so this video has been amazingly helpful 👍👍👍
Just getting back into modeling here in the UK. Just brought Tamiya 1:32 Mk1xc Spitfire kit. Thanks for all your very helpful tips and hints, will continue to watch with interest. Many Thanks.
Hi Wil. Informative and interesting, as ALWAYS. Required viewing for any .… for ALL ..... modellers. Thanks for filming & posting. Much love back at ya! :-) Mark.
I puckered so hard when he started just holding the trigger down and spraying clear in the "get it wet" process... but it explains why my gloss layers have never helped with getting decals to not silver. Thanks for this Will!
This is the exact lesson I've been looking for. Yes I'm going to try instead of rattle can clear coat, and try for the first time some createx gloss top coat! I'm nervous about this. I've heard nightmares using this product. Thank you for this video. Now I'm going to watch the rest of this lesson.
Great info, Thanks. New to airbrush and used these tips to use Tamiya X22 clear with Tamiya lacquer thinner (non retarder). My issue is I was not spraying wet enough. First clear came out nice over metallic blue. Thanks again!!!
Thank you for making this video. After disappointing results from Pledge Future, I tried Aqua Gloss which sucked as well. I’m trying to get a reasonable gloss finish on a die cast model car. I’m avoiding automotive clear, because I’m using water slide decals and don’t want to cook them. Going to give this product and the leveling thinner a try.
I'm a little late to this party, and I apologize if this is long winded. But before watching your highly informative video I was in the position you touched on at the end of this, until quite frankly, watching this. I'm still new to airbrushing and now that I'm better informed I was doing everything mostly right and still driving myself mad as to why it wasn't a "mirror" finish. It seems so simple yet I have so overlooked polishing the finish to clean it up and give it a better look. Thank you for this. I can finally stop beating myself up over it.
Being very new to the airbrush, your methodical approach is so much more instructive than the videos that just gloss over the details (pun!). The big surprise for me is how close you bring the brush to the surface. That may explain some of the problem I've been having; a pebbly finish. Even shooting the Badger primer you like.
Thanks for the kind words! I just try to keep it real and be thorough. As for your finish… I suspect you're right. I think that the culprit when people are spraying too dry is being too far away. There's a fine line between being so close that you are overloading the surface and being so far away that paint particles become tacky before they even land.
Indeed, you are a master model builder. I will be customizing a few models soon, and would cherish your expertise. The models in question are die cast metal aircraft that already have a finished layer of clear coat. I will just simply be adding decals to change the livery. A couple of models have an underlying layer of paint, while a separate aircraft is polished zinc, however, they are all finished with a factory clear coat. My question to you is once I have taken the necessary steps to place my decals in their appropriate position, can I then clear coat the decals to further protect them without compromising the existing clear coat underneath? If yes, what is your recommendation for doing so, and what product would you use? I appreciate any advice you can offer, as these are expensive models for me, and are quite difficult to replace. Thank you kindly. Cheers
will pattison - Good to hear! Anyways, it's nice to see someone showing a proper painting technique. So many guys paint doing zig zags and circles getting the furthest thing from an even coverage.
True, but to be fair, at least in military modeling there are plenty of times when you don't want an even coverage. It's all about what result you're after.
It's the same process as real automotive paint jobs. Look some up on youtube and use the same methods and you'll get there - Spray, Sand, Spray, Sand and eventually polish. It can take several steps and you've got to make sure your base coat is nice and smooth as well.
Thanks for the video! You are right on about having wrong expectations. I've been frustrated that my clears get orange peel when they dry even if they were totally smooth when wet. I guess I'll have to get better at polishing. Also, 2K really is a cheat for high gloss, it dries just as smooth as you spray it.
Achieving a mirror gloss typically requires wet sanding, then multiple levels of compounding up to a finish level polish. Tamiya make modeling compounds of various abrasiveness for this purpose, and they produce brilliant results.
hey man, thank you for your amazing videos!! I have a question, why, always when I spray a gloss clear coat my model is sticky and tacky for weeks? what I am doing wrong? I never had a smooth glossy surface to work! at the end is full of dust tiny particles, and dirt! it really really bothers me!!
Dear Will, i want to use this super clear III now but i noticed a problem that maybe can be later a problem. By my modell i didn't use primer. I just paint motorbike body with half tamiya laquer red paint and half mr color laquer red paint(so was the colortype good for me) but i noticed this super clear is so tough that can eat the paint.. Can i get a problem that i will paint with airbrush now this painted modell(without primer) or it will be no problem? Now i don't know what i have to do:/ If i make the decals on the modell and the painting clear coat will be wrong(paint will damaged) i don't know what i will do.. I would be happy if maybe you could give suggestion. Thank you! Zoltán
Thx for the highly informative video. Showing your process very clearly made your point. Although not specifically mentioned in your presentation, in watching your results, it would seem that a smoother, more level surface would also result in less decal 'silvering'.
That's a myth. I never use a gloss coat for decals. You also have to consider that we apply decals over all sorts of non-smooth surfaces that include things like rivets, panel lines, and casting texture on a tank turret.
I must say I really enjoyed your attention to detail and precise measuring and thank you for passing on the info I for one believe in the devil is in the details and chemistry and science and precision are good:) thank you
For the first wet pass, you were what, an inch and a half away? Also, what size needle/aircap do you prefer for this gloss mix? Full disclosure, I'm using a rattle can this evening, but I have my Paasche H on standby. It's brand new. I've never used it. I fear it. I do not fear wolverines. There are none around. But the airbrush...the airbrush is right in the same room with me. Waiting.
Does throwing them away count as thinning them? ;) but… Seriously… While I don't personally find any use for enamels beyond weathering agents, if I were going to shoot them I would probably thin with MLT.
I actually would of agreed with you 100%, but i used enamels to finish off the painting of my B17-G and was impressed greatly by the results, I used Humbrol with their own thinner and sprayed light coats and have to say that once the mist cleared and i had removed all the dead bodies that had suffocated from fume inhalation i was impressed, all i need is a few thousand quid to invest in a factory grade ventilation system to cope with the fumes! i have a mask but no booth so its a double edge sword, whats MLT I have some cullulose thinner, do enamels need sealing before decaling do you know, i'm on a tight budget so have to work with what ive got, everyone slates enamels, i have also in the past, but i cannot deny the results i achieved on my silver finish 'flying fortress' Many thanks. Mark
All that is totally valid and there is no doubt that enamels can produce a great finish, especially with a slow lacquer thinner like Mr. leveling thinner. It's the same as what I assume is the hardware store lacquer thinner you already have but rated to dry at higher temperatures and so it allows your paint to flow out better. The problem with enamels is not in themselves but of whatever comes next. Spraying acrylic varnish over the top of one, for example, can be a problem if it's not fully cured and full cure can take literally forever. Also, if you intend to use enamel-based weathering products you will have a bad time. If you stick with them I recommend you use lacquer based clears like dullcote.
will pattison thanks Will, I appreciate your advice. I gave been itching for any excuse to buy some Mr hobby self levelling thinner! I am so glad to have found someone else that agrees with me on how an airbrush retains paint after cleaning. I use an ultrasonic cleaner once a fortnight and always remove my needle and use ump cleaner when available or if not surgical spirit on a cotton bud to clean the needle off you can see and feel the paint on there I find primer is far worse than paint for lingering around. love your videos, keep up the good work. ATB Mark.
Hi Will, great tips all over! Was trying out U-Pol myself based on your mentions but found that it seems to craze clear parts. Do you have that experience?
Thanks! That stuff reacted with the clear parts and marred it so much that I had to sand off a pretty thick layer of "skin" before I could start polishing the clarity back. Learned this the hard way :-/
Will, have you ever had Mr Color Super Clear Gloss III with Leveling Thinner damage decals? What are some steps to prevent that? Just trashed a model that way. I had a nice smooth coat of clear cured for a week, applied the decals, cured them for a day, then just wanted to go over the decals so I could weather. Sprayed a wet coat over them, and a few minutes later all decals bubbles up. Thanks.
I've done a lot of testing with gloss coats of all types and I found that the key is the subsurface has to be sanded and even polished very smooth. Without an ultra smooth subsurface it's not possible to get a smooth gloss you'll always have an orange peel.
That's an(other) great useful video from you. I have tried almost all gloss clear coats and my experience so far was a disaster, no gloss effect at all, orange peel and/or all the related problems. With your advice, i realised some factors were not taken under consideration and shall be adjusted from now on. Thank you greartly. If I may ask, what needle did you use on your airbrush (Im asking so to judge the correct distance from the area sprayed), or differently, is the needle size (3.5 over 5.0 mm) affecting a lot the result?
Will - can I lay down a coat of Mr. Color Levelling Thinner mixed with Mr. Color GX100 Super Gloss III after using Mission Models Paint or do I need to let the MMP paint cure for 24 hours? It's the chemistry I'm a little fuzzy on...
Hi, please advise me, if I use this Mr color super clear with brushes, not airbrushes, is usual thinner ok, or for varnish you need leveling thinner? What I am trying to figure our, if thinner for solvent based acrylics requires different thinner then varnish? Please reply :)
How many layers should I apply if I am spraying to protect the base layer before doing panel line/panel wash? I dont really need to have a true gloss coat right (meaning apply many layers of coat until the surface is glossy mirror)? Thx
when using airbrush with clear coat, what do you clean air brush out with after? and can you use normal airbrush or do you need this type of spray gun?
depends on the type of clear. and any airbrush will do but bigger is better since the key with gloss is keeping a wet edge. a wider spray pattern is better for that.
Quick question- I used Alcad Aqua Gloss first time for a wash - awesome results. When I sealed it I had many spots and residual stainage - ruined my A plus effort. Help! And really enjoy your videos.
Honestly, without knowing more all I can say is that you just have to do a better job of removing the excess before you seal it. That's the trickiest thing about using the magic wash.
Thank you! Very much appreciate the response. And I think you are absolutely right. I did not leave enough time for both the wash and decal setting Walthers to cure. I think both of those contributed to the stained areas which are primarily around the decals.
Is it ok to use the mr color 400 leveling thinner on paint? Tamiya enamel. Using the same method you use on gloss coating. I do have smooth coverage of primer.
@@barpfoto thanks . 😅i just bought mission models clear coat and Matt coat anyway trying to follow your Method. I need some kind of rutine. First two tanks look like shit but it’s ok . Modelling is not that essy 😆
I've been using Tamiya X22 mixed w Mr Leveling Thinner as a gloss coat. Anybody know if Gunze GX-100 mixed w MLT is tougher? Trying to find the most durable clear coat for my kits. Thank you!
HOW to spray a gloss coat over a model car body WITHOUT orange peel, texture, running, or POLISHING : use Testors Model Master clear coat diluted with cheap lacquer thinner. Paint goes on thick (fewer costs mean less chance to spray on dusts), levels out, dries super glossy without polishing. The down side is Testors gloss enamels have gone out of production.
why would you want to use a gloss coat like this, if you then want to dull down the surface? I have no experience in modelling, so please forgive me if its a basic or even a stupid question.
Not a stupid question. There are simply certain times when it's good practice to seal your work with a gloss coat because of subsequent steps that will take place. Certain washes and other Materials work better on a glossy surface, For example.
Some people believe it is and I'm not going to tell you that you shouldn't do it but it's not necessary if your paint is smooth and you apply your decals properly.
I apologize for the stupid question, but I've done 4 models and i've never used the Mr color gx100, so do I have to use it before applying the decals or after?
will pattison Thank for answer! Love your videos. When i do gloss clear for cars i use Tamiya Ts clear on rattle can. Pretty happy with the results, but takes long time to buff it up. So thinking of trying with something else through the airbrush instead. Maybe this is it? Have you experience with tamiya ts clear?
