Really interesting video telling differences between R1, R2, R3 and R4 and some interesting details as poor traction sideways (side slope) in R1 and R2!
I love how you are straight forward in discussions. Not pushing a brand or style, just info and a good deal of humor to make it real. Keep up the good work.
Funny you mentioned the red gumbo of WV unfortunately that is what the catalyst was that caused my tractor accident that disabled me. The tires gumed up and took off like sled runners till she fliped backwards and threw me off. Tractor went sailing over top of me and landed on its top in the bottom of a deep hollow. Good job on explaining tractor tires i am proof how important they can be.
when I bought my Kubota, I had a choice between ag, turf, or industrial. I went with industrial. I find they don't tear up my yard, seem to have a little more flotation than an ag tire in mud, but don't bite in as well as an ag when you really need it. I have been happy with the industrial for what I use my tractor for.
Interesting, and I like that you've gone into topics I haven't seen other homesteaders even mention. The More You Know - I've never had need for a tractor but if I did these tractor topics have been invaluable for avoiding costly mistakes. Thanks!
From my research, R4s were designed for skid steers. That means they were designed to be slid-steered across hard surfaces. So they don't have that much traction side-to-side (like on a hill) but they last forever. They are significantly harder and usually have much higher load rating than most R1s. R1s, if the bars are at the correct angle, will stop a sideways slide down a hill face, but that can cause top-heavy tractors to tip when they bite. Some of these new compact tractors have the loaders so beefed up that they can exceed the load rating of R1s so keep an eye on that if you're buying a new tractor with R1s. Turf tires are the best choice for landscaping, and that's pretty much it; you don't do landscaping when it's wet/muddy. I'm glad to see the new Titan/Goodyear R14, and really want to see more real-world reviews on them on a compact tractor, since they have load ratings up there with R4. The tread is still a compromise, but if they pan out as the marketing suggests, they should have long life, good road ride, and decent all weather traction.
I had a grey market Kubota myself! An L2000 with deep ag tires also. Definitely know what you mean about going up grades you shouldn't with it....traction was so good I almost flipped it back on myself a couple times
I bought a 05 cabbed JD 4320 (48hp, 5300lbs) with R4 tires. If I didn’t have 4x4 that tractor would be useless. R4 sucks in snow, sucks in mud, I found myself kicking 4x4 in to pull a 78in BB up a slight incline or cut hay with a haybine on a dry day. The only advantages to R4 is on hard surfaces they wear slower, they are a bit more puncture resistant and the stiffer sidewalls handle weight on a loader a bit better. My Mahindra tractor now has R1 tires which is much better. R1W is one you forgot in your video and they have R3 radials now which I like the best. My list would be R3 radial, R3, R1, R1W, R2 then last behind sticking car tires on my tractor R4 lmao. R3 on a tractor lowers its resale, people just don’t want to pay any more for them but I like R3 (titan multi trac) tires the best behind the R3 radial. Multi trac is good on most surfaces except maybe mud, a set of chains easily fixes that. R4s just suck lol. I can see on a 4x4 tractor where having R4 tires in the front and R1 on the rear could be beneficial if doing a lot of heavy loader work on hard surfaces and softer land also, would get good wear up front but have the traction from the rear. If I wear out my front tires I might consider that but the rims are different so idk. I’d prob just stick with R1.
Ran a small garden tractor (large mower) on five acres awhile back, after the fronts wore out, swapped on a set of knobby snow mobile tires for extra bite in clay and wet grass and prevent plowing in sand. As the turf tires had square shoulders and smooth tread comparatively speaking.
Being 2WD go r1 or even R1W depending how much rain you get. You'll burn the R1 faster than 4 but given you lack 4wd the deep lug and wide void to lug will help out. alot
I bought a RK55 with R4 tires and I hate them tires they will not go any where if its damp your stuck wish Rural king would offer the tires you want Great job on the Video
I'm interested as well, I've been looking at the RK37 the salesman kept trying to talk me out of R1 tires for some reason. But I have steep hills and clay soil.
Let some air out of the R4's. I was looking at their tractors a couple of weeks ago and every one on the lot appeared to be way over inflated. That will definitely kill your traction.
Had to threaten Kubota with no sale on 35,000 worth of equipment because they kept trying to push me into r4 tires and I wanted r1s. I want to pull and push. That includes a single bottom plow and a disc. They were so mad I think they didn't move to fast when ordering my tractor.
I bought my first real tractor a month ago. Finally spring and I can barely use it. It has Ags on it and it tears up the yard. Finding out how expensive it is to get new rims and tires. AG rims won't take industrial tires because they are wider. Been trying to find someone looking for ags wanting to trade but so far no dice. I got a great deal on the tractor I bought but hindsight it may be a bit more tractor than I even need (Mahindra 1533 with a backhoe). Tires are a very important part of the buying aspect I found that out the hard way... I'm a man and bigger just seemed better... Lol.
For me it's r1 or nothing it's a 4x4 tractor it always amazes me to see turf tires on them a buddy got a good deal on a leftover l3200 with turfs a few years back and he can't even till his garden in the spring when it's damp soil what a joke a tractor with zero (traction)
Don't put up halfway Warren Tire beside a new tire on the front of your tractor to Warren Tire will try to stop you and the new tire will try to pull you
Don't ever put a new tire beside a half Warren Tire on the front of your tractor it will tear up the differential the size difference the new one would be pulling Fords and a half worn one will be trying to stop you
@@sergiofartlips at the last minute I told the salesman to put the 4s on because I'm driving in the woods alot crunching over everything and they won't puncture as easy as the 1s. And there easier for the turf. The 1s are better in deep snow and deep mudd, but thats far and few between around here.
I have a 4x4 Ford 1710, 800 hours. Looking at tires now. Originals have good tread but are cracked badly all around and I can see the nylon sheets underneath in many spots. Afraid they'll go out in a bad spot. I use it about 50/50 on gravel/clay/silt private road work and irrigated fields in summer and want to use it more in winter in dirt roads but haven't thus far bc of slipping concerns. I think I'll go R1 or R2 and having chains for use in winter snow and ice on my private road. The old R1s work fine on dry dirt roads but I'm afraid to use it it winter when any ice or snow is around.
Go with a firestone 23 degree. If you can go radial go radial. The radial will give better traction and longevity. The 23 degree bar is great for roading. If its weight you need though go with a bias 23 degree with fluid fill. No point in having a radial with with fluid. You lose all benefits of a radial once you fluid fill it.
I upgraded my Kubota L series a couple years ago. My old Kubota had R1 tires on it . Over the years I noticed most tractors had the R4 on them. So when I was talking to the dealer l as asked him to give me the good and bad of both tires. I went with the R4 tires. I use my tractor to keep my driveway cleared off snow in the winter with all angle snowplow. The first snow storm I found out that the R4 tires were not going too work without chains. I keep my old chains so I thought I would put them on finish plowing the driveway. That is when I noticed there wasn’t enough clearance between the fenders to use chains. So I called the dealer. That is when I was told you needed to buy spacers that will cost $500. in order to run chains. The dealer left that out when we discussed the difference between R1 and R4 . Most winters I never even put the chains on using my old tractor with R1 tires. The make a long story short I swapped the the R4 for R1 tires and never regretted it. The dealer didn’t give me a real comparison between them two tires.
Was wondering if I could get you to make a video in death on marketing free range organic Hogs which I'm currently been doing for the last 5 years and haven't been able to quite understand how to do it properly living in Kentucky everyone wants to pay current market prices for Hogs wanting to learn how to get away from that and price them to make money on the organic side instead of selling them to everybody for 45 or $0.50 a pound live weight
