Testors ELO (easy lift off) is By far the best thing that I have used and it removes any kind of paint. (Decals as well) As a matter of fact, you can use it just to remove decals without removing the paint underneath by using a small amount on a cotton bud.. My second choice would be 99% IPA because in my experience it has removed everything from enamels to oils to acrylics. Especially acrylics. It's as easy as just wiping it off with a paper towel that has some IPA on it. But I learned a lot here today. Great vid. thanks!
Not a terrible video my friend. I found it very useful and gained a bit of knowledge from it. Thanks for taking the time to record these ten mins of technique videos. I greatly appreciate them.
Dude, 2 parts lacquer thinner, 3 parts IPA (91%). Dunk, sit for 5 minutes, brush off. Rinse. Done. Works on acrylic(s), lacquer, enamels, urethanes, and poly-urethane's, all without harming plastics.
Its kind of funny: Back in the old days when a person could do work and/or maintenance on cars, my pop always told me when I was working on the brakes, "Don't get any brake fluid on the paint!" Good stuff, Will.
I have been using brake fluid for over 30 years and I use it to strip everything . I don't use anything else but brake fluid i use rubber gloves and toothbrushes .it has been in the railroad model hobby for many many many years I used to use it to Remove factory locomotive paint that was factory baked on. It might take dipping over night or a couple days it will not hurt any Types of plastic .
I just stripped a Tamiya RX7 and 1st I tried Purple Power full strength for 8 hours and no result. Next, I tried Mr. Muscle overnight and that didn't work either. Finally, I soaked my model in 91% Isopropyl alcohol for about 2 hours and with some mild brushing, all the paint and primer came off good enough to repaint it.
I've just used a mix of 50% Dettol & 50% water mix to strip 30+ year old Humbrol Enamel paint. Soaked it in the mix for 24 hours and then "scrubbed" off with an old toothbrush
Another great informative video thanks Will. One piece of advice for anyone reading this.. be VERY careful using the new AK High Compatability thinner as it will turn your plastic into a crumbly mess if soaked in it. Ask me how I know.....
LOL, I can still remember the tutorials you did with those paint mules. Looks like they are still proving to be very valuable mules. Now I dont know what a REAL paint stripper will do to plastic but they do make it, I recall using it with my dad when I was a kid on our Cessna airplane (real plane, not a model) that we stripped and repainted. That shit worked like a treat but dont get it on your skin, it burns like hell!
This may have been mentioned but straight ammonia for cleaning, strips urethane covering from vinyl floors without hurting them. I am just getting in to painting kits, but I installed floors for 20 years. this may cut through the tougher urethane coatings
Once melted a resin model by trying to strip the paint with brake fluid. An interesting experience as the resin seemed to lose its internal integity and dissolve from the inside out.
You scared the bejezzes out of me! I was in the process of stripping a resin model that I have been searching for, for 3 years! It is no longer made and cost 400 Pounds! Yikes! All cleaned off now...just hope it dosen't melt from the inside out....like some old Sci fi movie! 😨
Great info. I always keep my eyes open for the odd thrift store kit that has been started and abandoned and I've had good luck so far using 99% isopropyl alchohol on a few of the kits. I'll have to give brake fluid a shot. Noce to have options.
What about a botched paint job on the upper hull of a tank- tamiya primer and Vallejo acrylics? (Sprayed when it was just too hot and I persisted) Do you think brake fluid be worth a shot? Your thoughts be appreciated.
Could you please advise me? I collect metal diecast aircraft. I want to expand a squadron and have paint schemes and can buy the required decals. It does mean I need to buy painted models with fixed canopies and undercarriage and strip them for the repaint. I'm worried that the transparent canopy and the tires would be impacted by the cleaning. If so what would you recommend to block them prior to stripping? Sorry, never tried this. Thanks
It's a valid fear. And honestly, there's no way to answer your question without knowing what type of paint was used in production. I wouldn't be surprised if it was a baked on finish and normal stripping methods would not work well for that. You need to just get one to sacrifice and test various things.
Will,can all that stuff and stick to Gunze Mr.Color Thinner(organic)...it virtually strips ALL paints in no time and doesn’t harm the plastic the slightest! (Manu,the Why-Zee guy over at Roy’s page!)
I use Dettol. But, admittedly I have no idea whether it removes 2k or acrylic. But everything else strips after a soak and the part gets disinfected as well!!
Very good information. I agree with all your conclusions. I use simple green to strip tamiya acrylics with good success (go with your weakest solvent). How do you dispose of brake fluid that's used up?
Purple Power will do any of the aforementioned (Model Masters on immediate contact) for $5 a gallon without the risk of having brake fluid making a mess like that
I don’t know anything that would deal with a 2k that isn’t toxic and wouldn’t eat the plastic. very surprised alchohal could do anything to a cured 2k, I’ve used it to help get 2k off my skin, before it’s fully cured but I felt it was more for moral support and I basically had to scrape my skin off.
