EPISODE 4-How to not suck at archery- Walk Back Tuning 

Glad to hear it

@@brandonmcdonald6121 is there any way on Gods green earth I could speak with you over the phone possibly? I’ve had bow tuning issues for over a year and an a major tinkerer (is that a word? 🤔). Regardless I have many questions and think you would be a great resource to discuss these things with. My email is wadestew@gmail.com Hope you have a great night, sir!

Tonight, I will be as well!

My wallets getting tired of it!

I should have mentioned that as a byproduct of the walk back tune. There’s a reason I don’t shoot a 20 pin on my hunting site.

Appreciate it!

Psycho fairy! Haha. Appreciate the compliment. Still enjoying making the videos

He’s doing great. Lots of good progress at his place

@@brandonmcdonald6121 wonderful news

Exactly. Why not just move your sight then? I guess if you hit slight right and move your rest slight right, and it’s worse, then you did it wrong :)

ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-U_9ycI0T3Os.html

Yes, I was under the same impression about moving the rest for left/right miss the same as paper tuning (opposite of what you may think). Great channel tho..love the content and will have to play with it both ways.

@@J_Staub I know one is with broadheads and one is “walk back with field points”. Dudley says the opposite of Kellen. I totally respect both dudes, opposite sides though.

@@F22Ra I know, right! I saw the Dudley one also and thought “ok starting with Kellen way if if they don’t fall perfect or it goes opposite then switching to Dudley’s (and this) method”. I was shooting mechs last couple of years and now going to fixed (single bevels) so have all summer to get this right.

Might take a bit! I’m covered up with ideas right now!

Sketch is my middle name!! I’m gonna bare shaft but probably not out too much emphasis on it being super important

A guy at my club did the same thing. He used a padlock to weigh the plumb line at 60 his arrow nailed the lock and blew up.

@@jcagle89 my arrow hit the chain and ended up in the middle of the link, yes it smashed the tip into the shaft so never going to shoot that arrow again but it lets you know your spot on at least

If you can get them to fly, I think they’re the best

How are they impacting at 20 yards with your fletched arrows?

Dillon: This might help you and I hope its not too confusing.... My apologies for the lengthy con-vab.... :) Step #1: make sure your rest's center shot is on i.e. your rest is square and level, correct measurement from the riser, etc. very important! In some cases, you can step back and eye ball your center shot by looking at the string, following the string down from the top limb, through the handle, through the rest, and see if the arrow is right behind the string or centered. Certainly not ideal, but you can see if your arrow is kicking left or right, in a pinch! Once you have confirmed your center shot is on, leave the rest alone at this point; you wont be adjusting the rest until you start to paper tune fletched arrows. Step #2: Finding the spine of each arrow? Simply nock an arrow and shoot it through paper about 3/4 ft away from the paper or so. Read the paper; it will be obvious! If its not a bullet hole, turn the arrow 1/4" turn, shoot again and see if you have achieved a bullet hole. IF not, repeat by turning the arrow/nock again 1/4" turn and shoot again; continue until you have achieved a bullet hole. IF you achieve a bullet hole or close to it, the orientation of the spine should be on top or up. Mark the arrow's spine and move on to the next arrow. IF the arrow is tearing up, down, left or right, the rest isn't the problem (yet), the arrow is - unless your center shot is off; but hopefully you have validated that in step #1. Step #3: Simply, repeat this adjustment/shooting sequence until you achieve a bullet hole with all arrows. This might take you one shot or possibly 4 shots ... but should achieve what you are looking for... Once you have achieved bareshaft bullet holes, you are now ready to fletch your arrows with the spine pointing up and, with the cock feather in the same configuration. Step #4: Start paper tuning with fletched arrows; now the rest does come into play. Read the tear and move the rest accordingly. There are hundreds of videos on youtube on what a fletched arrow tears are telling you and how to adjust your rest to achieve a bullet hole. **Remember micro adjustments - a little goes a long way in your setup**

I’m not sure if it’s because it hangs onto the arrow for a few extra cm after it hits the string stop or if it happens earlier in the process.

Glad you got setup. It takes balls to say “I need help”

@@brandonmcdonald6121 I always go back to walk back tuning and bare shaft tune. If I can't get those two things to line up I get to a shop. Because I either need a twist somewhere or a top hat. Love your videos man

Hahaha!

Another note: I use a computer program to determine the optimum spine deflection for my bow setup based on the tip weight I want to run.

Good tip I will definitely take the shots. Lol

Do both. Paper is tough to actually get perfect, and can be confirmed by a few minutes of walk back. Paper gets you 95% of the way, but you’ll really see the issues when we go to broadheads so between walkback and bare shaft we get the rest of the way

We are probably in agreement on this one. For me I will always make sure broadhead flight is where I want it to be before a hunt. This one is more to see if people are having a more extreme problem they can get it a bit more in line. My concern is a lot of guys who’s bubble is off are going to message me... obviously that can mask this issue. I know a lot of guys that get good paper then move straight to broadheads.

@@brandonmcdonald6121 Sounds good. I wonder what the best starting point on average is to then move to broadhead tuning? I've been using my starting point as setting rest to center shot. However, I wonder if setting rest to center shot, walk back tuning, and THEN use that as your starting point for broadhead tuning might be more optimal (?). I think bows with yokes or the new Bowtech or Elite systems might have an advantage here whereas you don't have to move your rest at all (sometimes).....and so starting from center shot rest position often gets you an acceptable result.

@@MrShysterme I do this exact same thing with Mathews except I use top hats. I put a laser on string and arrow and generally don’t move my rest, if I do it’s under 2 micro clicks

I was thinking more about the increase in point weight not having as much influence. But it does

Yes indeed I do. Mine clock left so I fletch left. Lock tight broadheads and Ive never had an issue with them coming Unscrewed. I do have some single bevel coming so that may change some things

Black gold pro

Hopefully a couple. So far I’m on for South Dakota

Should go to southeast. Close to Nashville

Walk back isn’t the end. Bare shaft and then broadheads. There will be lots of guys that can’t get a bare shaft to fly right for any number of reasons and get frustrated. Trying to avoid that

I can see why. Controlling your variables

I hated mine! String angle was rough for me

Cool, I’ll look at them. Thanks for the recommendation

Haha!

I think it’s a small enough change unless your rig is SUPER wonky it will be ok. What I’m more worried about is people stopping short because they didn’t figure out they can raise the target up a bit. I debated mixing in getting your site set for this one but it was going to be too long...

​@@brandonmcdonald6121 lots of archers think that third axis is only important if you shoot up or down a hill, but think about this: with a 350 gr arrow I get approx. 315 fps (3D ...in down under we are not limited to 300 fps) out of my bow....that means that the arrow - despite this good speed - drops over 60 meters by nearly 1,900 mm!... (you can calculate it via the equation [gravity/2]*[distance/speed]^2 ...the actual drop is even more as the arrow slows down due to friction pending on the fletching)....to compensate for this I have to change the aiming angle distinctly for a trajectory that will hit the target at 60 meters, and if my level respectively third axis is not correctly adjusted the position of the bubble will multiply the error: with the third axis out you will tilt your bow slightly to the left or the right (pivot point is your sight pin....hence your arrow sitting approx. 80 mm below gets shifted to the left or to the right!)...might be barely noticeable over 10 ...20 meters...but over 60 it might be easily 50 ..100 mm to the left or the right ...maybe a good topic for Epsiode 5 😀

...and to make it "clear as mud" why the error increases with distance: while the arrow moves slightly to the left or to the right with the sight pin / bubble as the pivot point, it needs to be taken into account that the anchor point - hopefully 😀 - doesn't change; therefore the arrow points now in an angle to the left or right side of the target ....and following the theorem of intercepting lines the error will increase with distance to the target ...

Haha! The only time loose is better, indeed

If I’m not feeling good I don’t even try

@@brandonmcdonald6121 LOL

It’s true!