BTMS 50 is great, I agree. In conditioners it is one of the BEST. However, alone as a sole emulsifier (cationic/ highly charged/ not as gentle as a nonionic) BTMS 50 has its limits. That is one reason chemists pair cationic surfactants (yes it is an emulsifier, but it is also a surfactant) with nonionic emulsifiers. They are generally only used in conditioning products for this reason. In a lotion, I personally find cationic emulsifiers have a heavy skin feel as compared to a lotion with anionic and non-ionic blends. Stabilizers are also helpful in emulsions and a slurry made with humectants such as glycerin and xanthan gum will improve stability. I have been making a few lotion formulations without these ingredients (gums or polymers) and am finding that a freeze thaw test makes many of them separate, so always check to see if they hold up under temperature extremes (such an easy test). Be very careful adding heat sensitive ingredients like antioxidants and preservatives while a product is molten (there are some who can handle the heat, but just double check). Awesome presentation Tara Lee! I love your content and channel very much. Pro tip: add BTMS 50 or phase B to hot water (Phase A) instead of trying to melt it (it can burn).
Thank u so much it’s so informative. I’m a beginner and what confuses me a lot recently is soapy situation. I’m using an emulsifying wax which INCI same as Rita Mulse SCG, it’s from TRI company in US. Still trying to figure why. Was going to try BTMS-50 tomorrow and fortunately read ur comment, will put on my notebook before working on next lotion😊
@@Ching21286 Yes, different suppliers design their raw ingredients for a specific purpose. Check your supplier to see if it is suitable for the product you want to make. INCI is one of the most confusing things a beginner has to figure out. Just because the INCI is identical in a raw ingredient may not mean that they work the same. Have fun formulating!
Thank you for all of this plus the EXCELLENT tip on when to add it in formulations. I had no idea it could burn. Thank you. I've been reading on formulating for years for fun but now hope to actually create my own personal only products- not for sale.
I really enjoy BTMS-50 as a lotion emulsifier. It's silky and lingers on my skin. It wouldn't be my first pick for a light summer lotion, but it's great on parched, itchy hands and elbows.
I agree. Heating phase a to at least 120° prevents the melted butters waxes and oils from solidifying when it hits room temperature. The formulation will be liquid sort of like milk, but it will thicken to the consistency whether it's a runny lotion or a thick body cream.
Me too and I don't understand why people make short educational videos.Then you have to look for a more detailed one and start over. Some of us are proud nerds😂.we enjoy the math..
Thank you for sharing, I made the leave in spray with 2% BTMS, and it was a wrong move because it's not working with my spray bottle. I also made another but added hydrolyzed rice protein, and in place of Distilled Water, I used herbal tea, and it came out great. Thanks again for sharing.
I just recreated it! It has the perfect liquid consistency. I used warm brownie & hot fudge fragrance liquid germall plus in the place of optiphen. Also I used grapeseed oil as i did not have almond oil. My Grandson Jordan assisted me in this project. Awesome recipe Sis! Washed his coils and sprayed his hair. Plenty of slip and smells divine!
Thank you Tara, for this great learning video. I didn't find this video long at all, learned at lot, it was very clear and helpful since I like lately to make my own skin lotions and hair conditioner, only for me and my daughters . Thank you again for your incredible tutorial !!❤❤😊
Loved the content especially wanted to try hair conditioner with multipurpose shaving bar . By seeing and learning from you I started a RU-vid channel to educate people and share my formulation journey I really dreaming that one day I will also grow like you and wanted to do a collaboration video sister. Really loved the 4 formulations . Leave on spray is really different topic. Thank you so much for sharing sister ❤️. Congratulations on 50.3 k on Instagram sis I recreated 2 formulations with some changes according to my skin type really liked it ❤. Thank you sister 🌹🌻🥰🫂
Tara you are amaxing, i love watching your videos. They are so educational but also entertaining. Thank you so much. Btw please do that video about how you did your white letter labels as shown in this video!!
I absolutely love BTMS 50 but it's expensive here in the uk 🇬🇧 and there is only one supplier I can find that sells it. However, I use BTMS 25 and it's amazing in my hair products
Could you make a shea butter based lotion, for a light to medium viscosity, with few and simple ingredients. I would like to know to be more concious of what’s put on my skin
i already have a video on my channel like this - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ePdTeWKADgs.htmlsi=OWzg9D3ujsJ7dY0y i recommend watching the entire formulating for beginners series - ru-vid.com/group/PL3bXzssoexWbJHk5fD_eRlCEnaJAOaIw1&si=xYY1mo1wFhfQGfVK
I tried the conditioner bar and loved it for my dry, dense kinky waist length afro-textured hair. Gets a little too soft for my climate so going to try shifting to harder butters next time. I also used optiphen plus since it contacts water (not sure about its ability to self preserve in this environment).
Thx you, so much to do with Btms, I’m at urs gonna try and make some of these recipes. I especially love the conditioners. Thx again for helping us self taught formularies. ❤❤
Thank you for this amazing video.I have a question concerning the shaving bar: is it susceptible to mold growth since the formula doesn't contain a preservative? Can I add an oil-soluble preservative to this formula?
Oh, this is so good! Must make the shaving bar and i will make the leave in conditioner and try adding some silk extract because my hair needs protein. Hiw fun ti have a formula to play with. Thank you!;
love you tara lee. i learn how to formulate from you pleas can you recreate cerave SA bar soap, cream bar soap and cerave oil free moisturize? thank you god bless you
Below is my experience trying to make the leave in conditioner: I have to say, i tried this leave in conditioner as she taught it. It is on the heavier side and i can sense oil ks not fullh dispersed. So to disperse the pil i added 3% polysorbate 80 to 3% oil and even increased BTMS 50 to 3% not 2. The emulsion was fine and could be used oit of a spray bottle interms of thickness, however, the emulsion broke at 30 minutes 3000rpm stability testing. Then i addedd 1% cetyl alcohol and still didnt work. Im gonna try with 2% cety alcohol This is my formula: 86% distilled water, hydrosols 3% of BTMS 50, Glycerine, and polysorbate 80 each. 0.5% optiphen plus. 0.5% vitamin e oil. 1% cetyl alcohol.
Hi Tara thank you thank you I appreciate these videos you make for beginners. I am new to making skincare and I enjoy your videos very much. I would like it if you can make a video on weight how to weigh the ingredients in different measurements. I like oz, someone else might prefer grams. I am not sure which is better plz help
grams is the way everyone around the world weighs out ingredients. so this is why we weigh in grams when formulating, we are also supposed to use celsius. it’s just the way it’s done in the science field
Hi Tara, just wondering whether I could ditch the Cetyl Alcohol. Would that make any difference? I’m trying to make alcohol-free skin care for myself. Any subtitution would be great too! Tysm
So I've got hands on btms 80... I'm using way less quantity then mentioned in recipes but my issue is it's snell...it has a very distinctive kind of smell which gets hard to mask with scent...does your btms 50 has a smell to it too?
They aren't thr same ingredient at all so you would have to rework the formulation to match the right melting point and conditioning power. Specifically, cetearyl alcohol is used for 25 vs cetyl alcohol for btms 50.
Hi, may I know what major were you pursuing? And what major would you recommend to pursue for those who wanting to create cosmetic products like you ? Thanks
i didn’t go to school for this. i am self taught. in the beginning i learned a lot from the blog swiftcraftymonkey. i recommend reaching out to @cosmeticsyourways on instagram and talk to him. he is currently in college to be a cosmetic chemist one day.
Biomedical engineering (BME), chemistry, and biochemistry are all traditional college majors that position you to pursue this as a career. However, there are a few other majors and certifications that will give you the right skillset and requirements. Formula Botanica has some courses I hear for organic skincare and organic haircare
